Dateline: 2017 December 7th Kanyakumari, Southern India
This trips travelling map
The Furthest Reaches of India
It's wet here. Absolutely pissing down in torrents. There's a big storm coming our way, and it turns out, no one is prepared for it
The stairs in the hotel were awash as we went up for breakfast. Actually, so called "breakfast"
It's totally Monsoons here. Wild winds and storms all night and day.
Outside there's a tree that fell onto someone's house, lots of other trees, some maybe 100 years old, uprooted. There's broken glass and shop signs strewn about the street. The streets are typically just awash mostly water, but other outrageous detritus, mostly rotting is peeking out of the banks where it's been. The rats look particularly dishevelled as they sneak out of the rotting foliage to attack the trash.
In the morning, people are out, cleaning up. There are crews replacing all the broken power lines, and in many cases, the power line posts. No power unless you have a generator.
We are here in Kanyakumari, right at the end of India. For no other reason that it's here.
Of course, the "upside" to this is that I can get out my long suffering laptop (2010 XP no less) and start tickling the key to hopefully, keep you all up to date and vicariously channelled into our traveling lifestyle. you of course don't have to read it, or even feign interest.
I must admit that I now understand that in my dotage, my travels are adventure and discovery centric. So, anyone wanting to see us beat back the boundaries of modern day adventuring, give up now. It's not going to happen on this trip to India, Southern section
What you lot out there in the great void (maybe?) see as a great vacation of sun sand, frolic and relaxing as in the previous, oh, several blogs, is definitely not my purview of a fun time away from home. We need a bit more excitement, not to say this is unpleasant. far from it. Down here in the south, everyone is happy, friendly, communicative, respectful helpful, you name it. If its a positive, this is the place.
Also, the entire place (well, apart from a few back lanes and the dross that gets flushed out after a torrential downpour, like, say here now) is incredibly clean and organised. in fact, all of Goa and Kerala fit the bill nicely..
It's quite a change from the north where everyone is after you to make a living, or failing that, want endless selfies with you included. It did get very tiresome.
Here however, we totally blend into the environment, no one wants to take a cell phone shot of us (until here actually), and people who talk to you do so in the friendliest terms.
It really is very different from the north.
Also, the food, though not as endlessly spectacular as say Rajastan (my favourite by the way) gives us absolutely zero problem. Apart from the occasional time when we forgot to ask for less than local spices, and the missus gets a hiccuping fit and can't eat.
When we arrived in Mumbai, I dumped my Costco Imodium anti crap pills into my shorts pocket, available for instant use. Now, through lack of use, bouncing around in my pocket, they have all pretty much disintegrated into powder. So, even those of you gentle readers with corrosive digestive tracts thinking of not coming here because of vague ideas of dietary issues, don't worry, although your biliousness and intestinal tract may vary upon contact with some of our favourite edibles
To return to our trip, the next instalment as it were and general waffle and over view.
The night before we left Ooty, the wife of the caretaker who cooks for anyone staying there, showed us how she makes her killer paneer butter masala, and here's the recipe
Next day, we are up early, 6:30, a final breakfast and we Tuk down to the bus depot
I'm happy to just take the local, "Government" bus back to the train station, about 60Kms away 4 hours for R200.
I'm not sure how these folks can run these buses. Even full, they can only make about R5000 per trip which is about 4 hours. Driver, conductor and severe running costs would wipe out most of that
This trip is double the previous price of the bus up - it's an "express" 3.5 hours rather than 4. A taxi is 3, typically, taxi's are 10 - 20 times the price
As ever, it takes a day to get where you're going:: an auto rickshaw (aka Tuk), a bus, a train and another tuk to the hotel in Fort Kochi. We arrive about 6:30PM - too dark to take in much more than we are quite a way from the station. As long as you have nothing better to do, and have a general attitude to just observe the world going by, you're all set for this methodology of transit
Kayla arrives a bit past midnight at the airport - about 70Km's away can you believe.
I screw up getting a taxi, and eventually have to take another tuk to the airport to bring her back. It's takes nearly 2 hours each way, plus waiting for her at the airport.
It's good to see her and have a walking/ planning companion again
We arrive back well after 2:00AM suitable knackered all. A quick family reunion, and we're all happy to leave everything else till later that same day.
Although we have been in touch with Kayla almost daily, it's great to see her and do family catch up, especially with an iced coffee. There's a lot of pix and adventures and traveling companions she's had for us to catch up on, plus any local news from Toronto
"Fort" as it's know around here is yet another Portuguese colonial place. Again, due to the military intervention of good old Afonso de Albuquerque who sorted out some local feud in 1503
There's still a lot of Catholic churches and the like all around here.
It's a lovely old quaint place. A hot tourist spot that's extremely laid back with boutique shops and also, local places to just hang out in.
The main difference typically being with/ without air conditioning
Once again, tourists are just part of the environment here, and pretty much no one pays us much notice. There are obviously lots of tourists here. It is after all a very popular place on the Indian continent
We just chill, organise more expeditions for the rail trips, look into houseboats, apparently, the thing to do here, down south about 60Kms in Allepy
This is all Malabar coast. Famous, and much sought after be all the major powers in the 14th - 18th centuries - the Spice trade area which also saw a lot of punch ups between various European nations
Even the Tuk drivers are honest here
I become very lazy linguistically, as everyone, or there abouts, speak at least basic English
It's all relatively clean down here, still nothing like Delhi levels of filth, pigs, cows, leering or rip off agents.
All around, here on the south west coast, it's a much more pleasant place to sample "India", but you really miss out on the ancient splendours of say Rajastan
We try for a G'n'T at a 5 star hotel, just next to the ferry dock, and meet some high enders on the travel tours. Drivers, multi start hotels and cuisine etc. But they are only in India for 10 days.
No such luck, the missus settles for the "Fisherman's Catch", which is apparently pretty dire, and Kayla & I settle for beer. It's pleasant enough here, and content ourselves with more family and friends catch up (the real info on our mates for example) and investigate so we do not very much for the rest of the day
Kayla & I Tuk to get our next train tickets.
Train tickets are really very easy once you know how.
Occasionally, the Tuk driver wants to stop in a tourist shop as part of the payment -the going rate is about R50 cheaper per shop stop. We stop at two. All you need to do is walk through the store, and the driver gets his litre.
You also occasionally get asked by drivers as you walk by them if you would be willing to be driven by them to a shop, they then pretend they have a passenger and get a litre of fuel. Even if you are a fake passenger, when they bring the tourist into the shop. If you have lots of time, everyone wins.
There are however, far too many to be able to make deals in their favour.
Sounds like a hard scrabble life for them
I guess that we've all done India before, so suffice it to say that we just go about our tourist duties and see a few sights. It's very "easy listening" to just hang out here and support the local economy.
On our last night, we attend the local culture show, just across from our hotel. It's a bit bizarre, but apparently, ancient theatre here consisted of actors telling stories by displaying various emotions as the actual plot. So we had a 15 minute intro to these emotions, some of which were mainly about eyebrows or eyes moving, then the main event.
Scene: The Prince is sitting in his orchard with gentle breezes blowing.
Enter a beautiful princess who is obviously all about for some hanky panky and ancient seduction techniques by charming Prince Charming, but, being noble, she delayed in her pursuits because the prince has to ask his father for permission (well, it is a fairy tail. based on a true story maybe). As luck would have it, before he is nearly seduced, she gets pissed off and he sees through her disguise.
This trips travelling map
The Furthest Reaches of India
 |
| Wet and windy, the family occupies the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent |
The stairs in the hotel were awash as we went up for breakfast. Actually, so called "breakfast"
It's totally Monsoons here. Wild winds and storms all night and day.
Outside there's a tree that fell onto someone's house, lots of other trees, some maybe 100 years old, uprooted. There's broken glass and shop signs strewn about the street. The streets are typically just awash mostly water, but other outrageous detritus, mostly rotting is peeking out of the banks where it's been. The rats look particularly dishevelled as they sneak out of the rotting foliage to attack the trash.
In the morning, people are out, cleaning up. There are crews replacing all the broken power lines, and in many cases, the power line posts. No power unless you have a generator.
We are here in Kanyakumari, right at the end of India. For no other reason that it's here.
Of course, the "upside" to this is that I can get out my long suffering laptop (2010 XP no less) and start tickling the key to hopefully, keep you all up to date and vicariously channelled into our traveling lifestyle. you of course don't have to read it, or even feign interest.
 |
| How to make the perfect Paneer Butter Masala |
I must admit that I now understand that in my dotage, my travels are adventure and discovery centric. So, anyone wanting to see us beat back the boundaries of modern day adventuring, give up now. It's not going to happen on this trip to India, Southern section
 |
| Early morning Dosa's and hill view in Ooty |
Also, the entire place (well, apart from a few back lanes and the dross that gets flushed out after a torrential downpour, like, say here now) is incredibly clean and organised. in fact, all of Goa and Kerala fit the bill nicely..
It's quite a change from the north where everyone is after you to make a living, or failing that, want endless selfies with you included. It did get very tiresome.
Here however, we totally blend into the environment, no one wants to take a cell phone shot of us (until here actually), and people who talk to you do so in the friendliest terms.
It really is very different from the north.
Also, the food, though not as endlessly spectacular as say Rajastan (my favourite by the way) gives us absolutely zero problem. Apart from the occasional time when we forgot to ask for less than local spices, and the missus gets a hiccuping fit and can't eat.
When we arrived in Mumbai, I dumped my Costco Imodium anti crap pills into my shorts pocket, available for instant use. Now, through lack of use, bouncing around in my pocket, they have all pretty much disintegrated into powder. So, even those of you gentle readers with corrosive digestive tracts thinking of not coming here because of vague ideas of dietary issues, don't worry, although your biliousness and intestinal tract may vary upon contact with some of our favourite edibles
To return to our trip, the next instalment as it were and general waffle and over view.
The night before we left Ooty, the wife of the caretaker who cooks for anyone staying there, showed us how she makes her killer paneer butter masala, and here's the recipe
 |
| On the road back to Coimbatore, with bus |
I'm happy to just take the local, "Government" bus back to the train station, about 60Kms away 4 hours for R200.
I'm not sure how these folks can run these buses. Even full, they can only make about R5000 per trip which is about 4 hours. Driver, conductor and severe running costs would wipe out most of that
This trip is double the previous price of the bus up - it's an "express" 3.5 hours rather than 4. A taxi is 3, typically, taxi's are 10 - 20 times the price
As ever, it takes a day to get where you're going:: an auto rickshaw (aka Tuk), a bus, a train and another tuk to the hotel in Fort Kochi. We arrive about 6:30PM - too dark to take in much more than we are quite a way from the station. As long as you have nothing better to do, and have a general attitude to just observe the world going by, you're all set for this methodology of transit
Kayla arrives a bit past midnight at the airport - about 70Km's away can you believe.
I screw up getting a taxi, and eventually have to take another tuk to the airport to bring her back. It's takes nearly 2 hours each way, plus waiting for her at the airport.
It's good to see her and have a walking/ planning companion again
 |
| The "beach" in Fort Kochi. Not really a swimmers paradise here |
Although we have been in touch with Kayla almost daily, it's great to see her and do family catch up, especially with an iced coffee. There's a lot of pix and adventures and traveling companions she's had for us to catch up on, plus any local news from Toronto
"Fort" as it's know around here is yet another Portuguese colonial place. Again, due to the military intervention of good old Afonso de Albuquerque who sorted out some local feud in 1503
 |
| A local cafe, in Fort, looking North. It's really hot, again |
 |
| The local ferry between the Fort and the northern mainland |
 |
| A drink, snack and a mid afternoon view: R150 |
It's a lovely old quaint place. A hot tourist spot that's extremely laid back with boutique shops and also, local places to just hang out in.
The main difference typically being with/ without air conditioning
Once again, tourists are just part of the environment here, and pretty much no one pays us much notice. There are obviously lots of tourists here. It is after all a very popular place on the Indian continent
We just chill, organise more expeditions for the rail trips, look into houseboats, apparently, the thing to do here, down south about 60Kms in Allepy
This is all Malabar coast. Famous, and much sought after be all the major powers in the 14th - 18th centuries - the Spice trade area which also saw a lot of punch ups between various European nations
Even the Tuk drivers are honest here
I become very lazy linguistically, as everyone, or there abouts, speak at least basic English
 |
| This is how the 7 day adventurists live |
 |
| It supposed to be camel bones |
 |
| A cocktail (not very good) for R700? Outrageous |
We try for a G'n'T at a 5 star hotel, just next to the ferry dock, and meet some high enders on the travel tours. Drivers, multi start hotels and cuisine etc. But they are only in India for 10 days.
 R |
| The local taxi service, aka "Tuk" or Auto Rickshaw |
No such luck, the missus settles for the "Fisherman's Catch", which is apparently pretty dire, and Kayla & I settle for beer. It's pleasant enough here, and content ourselves with more family and friends catch up (the real info on our mates for example) and investigate so we do not very much for the rest of the day
Kayla & I Tuk to get our next train tickets.
Train tickets are really very easy once you know how.
Occasionally, the Tuk driver wants to stop in a tourist shop as part of the payment -the going rate is about R50 cheaper per shop stop. We stop at two. All you need to do is walk through the store, and the driver gets his litre.
You also occasionally get asked by drivers as you walk by them if you would be willing to be driven by them to a shop, they then pretend they have a passenger and get a litre of fuel. Even if you are a fake passenger, when they bring the tourist into the shop. If you have lots of time, everyone wins.
There are however, far too many to be able to make deals in their favour.
Sounds like a hard scrabble life for them
 |
| Local "Chinese Fishing Nets" |
 |
| The two actors doing their make up, prior to performing more rigorous scenes |
 |
| The "Good" guy, aka the Prince is the green one on the left |
Scene: The Prince is sitting in his orchard with gentle breezes blowing.
Enter a beautiful princess who is obviously all about for some hanky panky and ancient seduction techniques by charming Prince Charming, but, being noble, she delayed in her pursuits because the prince has to ask his father for permission (well, it is a fairy tail. based on a true story maybe). As luck would have it, before he is nearly seduced, she gets pissed off and he sees through her disguise.
She is revealed as a wicked sorceress, surprisingly, the proverbial wicked temptress.
So, there's nothing left but to cut of her nose and breasts before she flees back to the underworld. The END.
I think there was a moral here.
So, there's nothing left but to cut of her nose and breasts before she flees back to the underworld. The END.
I think there was a moral here.
 |
| We arrive, hoping to find a cheap cruise, we didn't |
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| Typical for cheapo Smith, we arrive without any reservation, here just hanging out having a coffee by the canal Kayla & I scout around and eventually get one I think through our previous hotel manager |
Come morning, we depart Fort for Allepey, so called Venice of India, and eventually, after cocking around, details of which are too boring to mention, head out on our own houseboat onto the lake: Aryad South apparently. We have
stocked up with the best beers we can find.
The cook makes us lunch as we settle down to read books, drink beer and do nothing much except watch the world pass by.
As we find out, that is pretty much what it was. We trawled up and down the canals in the southern part of the lake, and as above, repeat. There's a storm around, and eventually, we tie up for the night and settle down. Fish and great Indian grub, yes again.
Yes, we did enjoy the experience, would one night have worked? Probably.
There's a houseboat for everyone, here's a selection: everything from single bedrooms to giant 16+ rooms on board. We arrived on Saturday, so didn't have much choice. The selection really should have been done before we arrived. So, all would be Allepey house boat cruisers, book via Agoda or Booking.com before you get there
By and large, everyone of the boats looked clean and "ship shape". Some had fully aircon enclosed spaces to lounge in, others, like ours, only had aircon at night in our rooms
stocked up with the best beers we can find.
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| Our own houseboat, complete with captain and cook (a very good one!) |
The cook makes us lunch as we settle down to read books, drink beer and do nothing much except watch the world pass by.
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| Kayla at rest heading around the waterways It actually got quite dull after the first 12 hours |
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| You bring your own booze, and buy prawns if you want them (I did) |
Yes, we did enjoy the experience, would one night have worked? Probably.
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| Our floating home, Allepey lakes. Rather dull actually |
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| Our cook had everything under control |
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| The food really was the highlight of this trip |
By and large, everyone of the boats looked clean and "ship shape". Some had fully aircon enclosed spaces to lounge in, others, like ours, only had aircon at night in our rooms
 |
| Well, at least we now have experienced the tourist schtick |
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| Cruise around the canals, eat, drink, sleep, repeat |
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| A bargain: 6 large prawns, R800 |
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| Probable big enough for 10 - 12 |
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| Our size, maybe 2 - 3 couples |
The lake looks very clean, as does all the local area, so, I'm just hoping that the flushing processes actually head into a holding tank.
Apparently Allepey won the Indian title of "Best solid waste management" award, so I can only hope
To be honest, sitting on a houseboat for two days just watching the banks go bye got tame very quickly, for me anyway. luckily, most of the beers were good, and with a cooler of ice remained drinkable.
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| A monster - maybe 25 - 30 capacity |
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| Probably big enough for about 16 |
The cook (Not even sure we exchanged any names) whipped up a tandoori ish version which was a bit too hot for the missus. Best prawns I've ever had
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| Our final breakfast on our way back in |
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| "Train delayed, sorry for any inconvenience" |
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| Butter Paneer Masala AGAIN?? |
Come morning. we three wander around the Palace: "Maharaja Swathi Thirunal Palace"
It's quite interesting in a faded days of the British Raj kind of way.
Amazingly, to me anyway, the guide explains a lot about the plethora of gods in India. A lot of the sculptures are of Grecian style, dating back to the height of the Greek and Roman empires can you believe.
According to Wiki, the history of trade along
this coast goes back much further, maybe 3000BC
Amazingly, Kerala is run by a communist government, amazing because everything works, it's clean, educated and incredibly friendly.
The old palace is full of the bric a brac of lost empires. rooms full of massive oil lamps (coconut oil only please), ivory furniture, Ming vases can you believe. We share the guide with a young family who has a very bored 6 year old son in tow. He of course is careening around the room. Suffice it to say nothing is in protective cases, including the Ming vases and delicately carved woodwork held up by a screw in the wall. ugh.
Quite astounding stuff.
There's another museum dedicated to the Raja, photographs and painting of his reign during British rule pretty much exclusively. Boring as hell
Kayla and I organise our- next train journey (sound familiar), organise various phone maintenances and then head to the north of town
Amazingly, to me anyway, the guide explains a lot about the plethora of gods in India. A lot of the sculptures are of Grecian style, dating back to the height of the Greek and Roman empires can you believe.
 |
| Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Can't remember why we didn't go there |
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| Trivandrum public transit |
Amazingly, Kerala is run by a communist government, amazing because everything works, it's clean, educated and incredibly friendly.
The old palace is full of the bric a brac of lost empires. rooms full of massive oil lamps (coconut oil only please), ivory furniture, Ming vases can you believe. We share the guide with a young family who has a very bored 6 year old son in tow. He of course is careening around the room. Suffice it to say nothing is in protective cases, including the Ming vases and delicately carved woodwork held up by a screw in the wall. ugh.
 |
| Trivandrum: Napier Museum - a really great exhibit |
There's another museum dedicated to the Raja, photographs and painting of his reign during British rule pretty much exclusively. Boring as hell
Kayla and I organise our- next train journey (sound familiar), organise various phone maintenances and then head to the north of town
 |
| Peace in our/ their time Kerulam Museum Thiruvananthapuram |
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| Apparently, the madder she gets, the more arms appear. not sure about all the faces |
Across the road is the Kerulam museum of history and heritage.
It's nothing like as big, and really only has a few decent exhibits
We walk back, probably about 4Km's.
I love walking around unknown towns and make it a priority whenever I get to a new place to just go out for hours.
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| Another day, another train ride They are often late, but always get you there Eventually |
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| Kanyakumari - the end of India, with temple and sage statue. Note strap to keep my chapeau on |
It's always a great pleasure wandering around foreign places, and luckily, for me, if not the missus, both Kayla and I want to walk everywhere, that's why the missus enjoys her relaxation times back at the hotel, or coffee shops: she doesn't need to keep up with us
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| Looks like we have arrived during, or at the beginning of the local Monsoons |
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| The approaching storm - it was a big one. We hunker down |
It's not a great day for much more than hiding from the storm
We are back in Tail Nadu. It shows that we are out of Kerala
The people are still lovely, but the town itself is back to the same old dirty, smelly and trash strewn alleys of the North.
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| After about an hour hiding from the rain, we run to the Gandhi monument |
If there's one word to describe the south west, it's
"accessible". The people, the cities, the lack of honking, the absence
of cows, trash and sewage. dogs? well, they are everywhere still.
As I've whined before, this trip is essentially a vacation, not a discovery, but what it lacks in ancient splendour, it almost makes up for in the sheer friendliness and welcome from the people we meet.
That's not a bad thing to go home with
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| The Gandhi Museum. It's seen better days, but then so have I |
That's not a bad thing to go home with
From your correspondent
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