Jims Travel and Life or Lifeless Blog: August 2000

Dateline: 2000 August 5th , Albert Falls, Natal, South Africa

Route: Injisuthi, continuing to Malealea, Lesotho

Sunday August 5^th, Albert Falls, Natal, South Africa

I guess it doesn't come much more unexpected than this
Breakfast, South African style

August 2^nd. - We finally tear ourselves away from the wonderful life we had begun to enjoy at N'jasuthi and head off to - well, we did not know.
As we left the chalets, the cruiser chugs to a stop just outside the gate. Oh shit, now what? I remember my Toyota guru in Toronto, advised me about the fuel pump, and Jimmy, told me the only thing that would stop a diesel is air in the fuel line. So, a quick pump of the manual fuel pump actually allows the machine to start! Gasp, I do not like living like this!
However, we are off out to the wild world again.

The Veldt in winter is just glorious
I remember the sun and the crisp days again

On the way, up an extended (admittedly slight) incline, the motor over heats again, and just for good measure, on the way down the hill that caused the overheating on the way in, smoke begins to pour out of one of the break shoes and the break drum becomes very hot.......
It's only 11:00AM, and already, I'm having a really bad day! (The real cause of this problem, as I discover much later, was a terrible driver. Big vehicles need to be slowed down with gears, not brakes... Ed)

Life is not easy here,
especially if you are not white

We head off to Escourt (an apparently rare example of a safe town) about 40 Km away, to have a decent coffee, and stock up for the days (or weeks) of waiting for the vehicle to be fixed.

At the small shopping centre we have lunch. The proprietress (?) Upon being told by yours truly that the establishment's Cornish Pasties are the best he's tested for years, she tells me about her husband who was killed in a farm raid 8 months ago. (Duh, "Oh dear" etc - well what else can you say?)

This was quite a shock.
Almost flat and nowhere near Lesotho slopes

We select Albert Falls Dam, 25Km. outside of Pietermaritzburg (PMT), and make it successfully down the hills. On route, we stop in a small town called Howick. A very pretty place, with a small water fall, especially geared to tourism. We stop for a milk shake and directions at a local café. We pick up the local news paper (with a readership/ area of no more than our local Swansea "Bloor West Guardian") which has the headline "Kwazulu reacts to latest farm killings" detailing the latest acts of violence against the local white farmers. Something akin to "Toronto Mayor talks about the latest Bloor West store owner to be murdered".

I'm sure no comments are needed from me on this.

We were gob smacked by meeting two rhinos
wandering around the park

We arrive at Albert Falls by 3:00PM. A very pleasant small privately run game reserve. Eighteen chalets (for 4 or more) and rondavels (for 2 only), several giraffe, 2 rhino and lots of impala (again). Our chalet is, if not spectacular, then at the very least, totally functional, very large and very comfortable (not to mention very cheap!)
We settle in and go for an evening game drive. Just before dusk, near the camping area, I look over my shoulder, and see the two Rhino charging at us out of the bush. We retreat.

We chase the resident Rhino as the sun sets
Eventually, they chase us

As the dusk deepens, we watch the Rhinos (Aiden & Kayla name them Bob & Marley), sniff around trying to get into the camping area. Tough luck, it's pretty well locked up.

Too dark to watch any more, we head off to our by now regular braai for the night.
In the morning, we notice that there had been a merest sprinkle of rain, and a fine mist is in the air. This is the first sign of moisture of any sort we have seen here

And why not. "Bob" and "Marley" are very tame
and it's such a delight to have them around
For one thing, the place must be VERY well guarded!

Now, I'm off to PMT for to seek professional advice.
The Toyota dealer sends me off to get an engine/ radiator test - it shows that there is something leaking into the rad from the engine - VERY NASTY! As the cruiser is an import, the Toyota dealer sends me off to a 4 x 4 specialist. Neil Wooldrich Motors. We book up for a full day of in-depth analysis for the following Monday - 4 days away.

Internet some of these updates, and cannot believe how difficult it is. 3 hours, 10 messages sent!

We hang out in our private game reserve respite

All this on your doorstep and super cheap laundry

Come Friday 4th August, back at the ranch, we make some hesitant drives around the neighbourhood: Wartburg (about 20 Km.), a small town with a definite German flavour. We do lunch at the Wartberger Hof, and stock up with week end vittles. We also manage to get back without mishap - a bonus day!
Meet a couple (the only other souls here this week) from a rondavel - Mike & Kerry, she runs a pub near Durban, he's a doctor with some more hair raising stats on the HIV/ AIDS epidemic. We do a game drive and all get pissed at the nearby game viewing hide - nothing appears.

Distance travelled this entry: 250 Km.

Distance moved on trip this entry: 75 Km

Wednesday August 9^th, Albert Falls, Natal, South Africa

On Sunday August 6th, gaining a fragile confidence in the machine, we head off on a ramble around the lake - about 30Km, hoping for some Zulu culture. We end up having a cup of tea and a game of mini golf - obviously this area is significantly run down from days of yore!

Breakfast on the lawn, once again, Bob & Marley join us
Well, we weren't going anywhere anyway

Come lunch time, we notice a small entry on the local map, which advertises "lunches". When we arrive, it turns out to be a truly fabulous private game area, (we see three rhino and six giraffe on the 3Km. way in), and have a spectacular lunch while looking out over a beautiful valley.

Aiden & Kayla christen our regular visitors
"Bob" and "Marley" Seems appropriate

Breakfast with champions?

I nix the idea of Zulu culture in exchange for another portion of lamb on a spit (Hhhhmmmmn!). Back at the falls, we move into a chalet with a glorious view, and Mike and Kerry come over for their final night.

They are typical of the South Africans we meet (sorry guys), - friendly, open, interested in what the world thinks about SA and the "situation". Stoic, resigned, optimistic. We usually get invited to their place to stay, and Mike & Kerry are no exceptions.

Monday 7^th August arrives - the day of reckoning for the machine, shape up or ship it out! I have no plans as I may need to stay in a local hotel, hire a vehicle, import parts, etc - just sweat it out for the day.
I leave the machine with Murray, the manager, and head off for the internet café just for a laugh. The connections are better at this one and I get 15 messages out in 2 hours!
Return to the shop for the bad news. Surprise! Seems to be a pretty easy problem to fix - the fan not up to scratch!!! They bolt it together (as a test), and tell me to test it and come back later. I breath easier once again.

Back to Albert Falls with a celebratory pile of T-Bones (at $1.45 each, this is easy call).

When it comes down to it, we have no idea
if this is dangerous

We decide that it is far more important to organise our belongings than get a roof tent. Partially because our focus is now defined and we are not too concerned about roughing it, and we seem to be able to get good quality self contained accommodation more or less anywhere. As a bonus, its all relatively very cheap to live.

This is Africa so not totally unexpected

An aside to travelling in South Africa: Before we left, we bought the "Lonely Planet" guide, so we were - at least for us, relatively well organised. At Jills, she gave us a current AA guide to self contained/ B&B establishments, and these, coupled with a cell phone, winter/ low season and occasionally a credit card, means that we can simply call ahead on the road, and stay literally, almost anywhere.

Plus these places are usually wonderfully organised, clean, serviced and very friendly. Wonderful places to stay are literally everywhere, even in the remotest places on the maps - don't quote me on this, your mileage may vary.
The one major item you absolutely must have is a reliable vehicle to get you from place to place!! WELL!

I have the responsibility of not only looking after everything the family needs, is likely to need, or in someone's wildest dreams, will need, but also that I am the reason everyone is here, with all the benefits and responsibilities that are in attendance with this. Heavy stuff all things considered

August 8^th and we head off to Durban for the roof box for all our spare crap. Looks like the roof tent is out now as we cannot get both on top of the van.
The vehicle behaves and we decide on the roof box. I'm not too happy with the mounting system, but we have little choice as it's the only combination that will fit.

This is certainly my idea of wild! Breakfast with the wildlife

Durban, 8^th August; seems like a pleasant enough place, commercial centre for Natal, harbour for Southern Africa. Bustling activity. Wide palm lined streets.
As a trip while in Durban, we go to aquarium on the sea front. I'm very nervous about theft down here. No logical reason behind it, just more neurosis I guess.
Aiden volunteers for the participatory part and gets loaded up with seal like bits and pieces. Get a photo for his efforts.

Here I'm setting up the BBQ
With friends

We see the usual Dolphins, seals, penguin and fish feeding. A tank of sharks (not being fed). The Dolphin show was a demonstration of taking the vital signs and faecal and nasal samples for testing. Unusual stuff. We get back without incident (A Good Sign), and find the rhinos tromping around our chalet. We put on the braai notwithstanding these interlopers, just make sure we go the long way around the chalet to the braai pit.

August 9^th: Breakfast on the lawn, once again, Bob & Marley join us. Lots of photo ops as we have our cereals and toast & marmite.
Today is "National Women's Day" in South Africa - we relax, give our laundry to the staff for washing ( a very large plastic bag full for R10.00 - about $2.00). /some lady will not be having much of a day off today!

Bob (or Marley)
making sure there's nothing edible at the braai

I do a few checks on the vehicle, organise the junk for the roof top container, and prepare to depart. Once again, we have no idea where we will be heading this evening. We just hope the professionals at the 4 x 4 centre are just that - professional.
A few games of pretty poor tennis, and we are ready for our evening game drive. This is a professional trip in a custom built Toyota. We leave at dusk - 5:30 PM. Once again, the driver is very knowledgeable about all the bio bits, from grasses to rhino habits. We take our bottle of wine this time. It's a bumpy ride, so we don't drink all of it.

We never did get used to this

On the trip are also 3 teenagers, no, very pleasant guys, once again we do the "my society, your society" thing. They are also knowledgeable about the flora and fauna, and optimistic, but very concerned about their future (they are almost guaranteed to not be able to get a job due to "affirmative action"). We see the rhino as we leave; still browsing on the short grasses around the chalet, giraffe, zebra, various antelope, Nightjars, Eland and a barn owl (unusual).
Tomorrow, we head off to another destination (?). Hoping that the machine will finally live up to its name!

Distance travelled this entry: 100 Km.

Distance moved on trip this entry: 0 Km

Friday August 11^th, Mulomong, Lesotho

This is the shot I've been fantasising about for years
The cruiser proves herself more than capable up the Sani Pass
The driver? Not so much yet

Today, I finally realised why I had chosen a Toyota Landcruiser, had it checked out in Toronto, and shipped to South Africa!

Sani Pass. Vehicle destroyer, midwinter

This epiphany came to me, just after we had driven down a dry river bed (seriously), to get to our lodging for the night - the "Mulomong Guest House". Compared to the beating the machine had taken today on the passes and "roads" in Lesotho, 12 inch boulders and 18 inch holes in the "road"/ path to the lodge was easy. This machine really will go anywhere!

It has been an exciting and probably stressful day. I forget.
After a day in PMT (Pietermaritzburg) last Thursday, August 10^th., while all the bits and pieces causing concern on the Landcruiser, were hopefully located and fixed once and for all! While it was being fixed, we all did some internet connecting, and I actually had a cyber chat with my buddy Hannis in UK, most god fearing folk in TO, being safely in bed.

A view of the pass to match
our adventurous spirits

Only about 90 minutes between immigrations.
Phew! We made it and faith in the Cruiser
is in the ascendance

I think I caught up with all devotes who have mailed us, and send a few more entries of this for the web. This time we took five hours between us to send about 30 messages. This at a cost of $CAN20.00!

Sani Top pub, hotel, chalet.
Time for lunch anyone?

As we had decided to get our nominal camping gear (especially gas/ coking gear) here, an hour was spent getting this stuff, prior to departing to the great unknown
At 5:30PM we headed out for Himeville, about 2 hours away (up lots of hills). There were no emergencies or panics on this trip. We all breathe easier tonight

We arrive at Himeville and the Arms turns out to be exactly like an English country pub, but better. Good food, good accommodation. We are the only guests, service is good, we eat and sleep well.
Finding any information about Lesotho here is a bit of a job, but eventually a local transit company (Major Travels), gives us some good directions, and what we need to take with us. Time to gas, cash and grub up, we are not sure when we will see anything recognisable as these items next.

Local wildlife on the way to Mulamong

August 11^th

Now we are off into REAL adventure land, its 40K to Lesotho over Sani Pass, and then another 250Km to our destination at Melealea over some of the roughest and toughest "roads" this side of the Congo. We are living apocryphal stories, and AA maps. We leave the tarred road - the last we will see for several hundred Km.

Mulamong Guest House.
We really didn't know if it did exist. It does!
Down a river bed, turn left

The road to the border post turns out to be rougher than the pass itself - luckily. We leave South Africa officially before the tough part. Border control take less time than it does to find the washroom - no more than 2 minutes.

Sani Pass however needs TOTAL concentration, first time I've actually needed the full 4 x 4. ALL of my gears - yes lowest of the lowest gears in the low 4 x 4 ratio up the last stretch, (the last 300 vertical metres is at a 1:6 incline ) and lots of 4 x 4 functionality up the tortuous winding dirt and rubble track. This all at 2600+ metres. We spot the remains of several vehicles that did not make it. Thankfully, the machine and the family stays cool, and we all survive the test.

Our lodging for the night - the
"Mulomong Guest House"
All is well with the world.

Lesotho is a sovereign nation mainly due to the mountains, but also politics of the 19th Century.

Try this for a quick into.

It feels like we have been driving for 5 hours, but it was really only 90 minutes from Himeville. It's only just lunch time.
We get stamped into Lesotho, and head for Sani Top Chalet, just across the road - the highest pub in Africa with a view of the pass to match. Steak and Kidney pie is the best I've had in 20 years, well, it certainly felt that way - maybe the adrenalin added some mysterious je ne sais quoi to the meal.

Morning in Mokhotlong. Mulumong Guest House.
Ready for the adventure to continue

2:00 PM, it starts to snow, and we are off to find our guest house. Lesotho still has some surprises. I thought we were out of the skill testing sections. Not a bit of it.

The "road" takes us up another 300 - 400 metres over the Maluti mountain range. Thick black smoke pours out the exhaust as we climb, once again all in 4 x 4 low gearing, manually overriding the automatic all the way up & down.

Maps, well, we reset the odometer at the border, and wait for the correct number to pass. After 2 false trails, we eventually reach our destination for the night.

Mulomong.

The roads are at least, no surprise anymore

There is another family here already - Willem, his wife and 2 young kids, also exploring, from Pretoria. While admiring the austere mountain peaks surrounding us, the owner, Derek and his girlfriend arrive. Time for an impromptu wine and cheese party in front of the fire. Candles (there is no electricity within a 100 Km) make the whole thing quite romantic. Aiden does some maths work, all is well with the world.
Tomorrow is another day.

Distance travelled this entry: 225 Km.

Distance moved on trip this entry: 225 Km

Friday August 13^th, Malealea Lodge, Lesotho

Lesotho highlands,
down the first dirt track on the right

August 11^th.: After breakfast we plan our trip with Derek. I take some photo pix, and give him two on a floppy. This is quite incongruous considering that the most sophisticated item in the village was the (not working) gas fridge in the lodge.

I never worked out how
anything survives here

The metropolis of Thaba Tseka.
The diesel is obviously subsidised.
Its cheaper than in South Africa

We decided to do the "southern route" as the lodge at the Khotse Dam (your Canadian tax dollars at work), is fully booked this weekend - a leftover of the National Women's day holiday in SA last week apparently.From Mulomong, after negotiating back up the dried up river bed, we follow the road through incredibly hair raising mountain passes of South East Lesotho.

Maracabei Lodge. It was on the map,
and actually existed there

It's 125 Km from Mulomong to Thaba Tseka where we hope we can gas up - this altitude and climbs/ descents chew up the diesel. Our speed averages 25 KPM - not bad considering we actually get here safely.

We pass many schools, and are constantly being asked for sweets (candies), cigarettes and food on the way. People are desperately poor here - this is the 2^nd poorest nation on earth. It's not even possible to say "dirt poor" as there is far more rock here than dirt, which is at least useful. Kids dress in almost nothing except a blanket to keep warm. Cows, sheep, goats and horses are occasionally spotted in the hills as we pass. Everywhere is dust.

God! I love Africa

Austere and almost no agricultural potential.
Just sheep and goats and lots of babies

After the outback, Thaba Tseka is almost a bustling metropolis: shops, cafes, shebeen, - all with a specific wilds of Africa flavour, and eventually, a gas station with diesel -Wow! Time to fill up. Pausing only to give the attendant a polaroid shot of him filling us up, we continue.
More mountain passes pass. I turn off the 4 wheel drive - 200 Km of some of the toughest terrain I've ever driven seems to be over.

Sharp and pointy rrrrrrocks.
All the better to kill you with

Searching for places to stay, we eventually reach Marakabei Lodge. It's located in a valley with a stream that is right outside our rondavels (we take 2).

The kids get a hot shower, we have to wait till morning for the water to heat up again. However, there is power here, and we charge our electronics again. Chicken & chips for dinner - hot non dusty food, what a treat.
August 12^th.: On the road just above the lodge, we exchange a few candies for this shot of shepherd boys.

The Lesotho highlands, another glorious day in the
mountains. This could last forever

Everyone happy with the deal.

After 40Km, the road turns into top quality paved road - thanks to those wonderful folks in Canada again. Travelling becomes easy - just like the 401 over mountain passes.

Our average speed on the roads we travelled since Sani Pass, has been 20Km/H. Good enough for me!

How it is now (2000), complete with tarmac road
Compare with a previous attempt, below

A few hours later, "God Help Me Pass" is crested - this brought back many old memories as this is where my girlfriend, Annie, & I got stuck when I last tried to cross Lesotho, 25 years ago. We pause for a 2 minute photo op, and head off to find Malealea.

What a wonderful place to forget about the world in!

God Help me Pass: Winter, 1977. Hitchhiking with Annie
It was like this all the way to Sani Pass nearly 200Km away

Distance travelled this entry: 250 Km.

Distance moved on trip this entry: 250 Km

Emails from Albert Falls:

Junior:

Happy belated to be birthday!

We are still in Africa, and still alive (Double plus!)

Here's the missus:

Well Africa is still quite lovely except for the tension around security that is soooo evident now. The hospitality and wonderfully accomodating attitude of people in the tourist industry is truly wonderful. The amount of things to see and do is limitless so I guess

all in all the experience is a definate plus. Jim gets waves of paranoia occassionally when he remembers that he is responsible for getting his family safely out of Africa.

Hopefully, off to Lesotho tomorrow after having the vehicle fully tuned.

Our itinerary has shifted and now we are not sure if Kenya is even possible this time around. Though this is part of the whole concept of vacationing at least for the Koplimae-Smiths.

Feel free to call anytime though we are probably not accessible in Lesotho.

Hi, me again,

Will (hopefully), be back in cyber touch 10 - 14 days.

All the bat family,

Ciao.

--

Well folks,

We are on our travels now, and we can only access/ return e-mail at specific points along our travel path.

Please feel free to communicate with us, but we are not interested in bandwith eating nonsenses.

Editors Note:

And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.

Here they are: