Left at the cow, straight on past the pissing wall - The final chapter 2017
Well, it would have been if there wasn't a lock-down on internet in Udaipur on the last day there. Something to do with Hindu's chopping up a Muslim with machetes and posting the video of it on U-Tube. Go figure
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| A Gin and tonics sun downer, finally in our final days in Udaipur |
Can you believe? This will be my last post of the year, so shape up and read avidly before the Christmas rush envelops you. It's actually more of a what we did monologue, probably only of use to those of us who took part simply as a way of remembering what we (probably) did for a few weeks in India
OK: here's the ravings, as written through the closing stages of out second India trip, 2017
Somehow, I almost feel like I'm back in Toronto already
Yes, in one week we will be boarding AC0043 to return to Toronto.
Speaking of which, now that we are into our last week here, we have been spending like the Indian version of Santa over here
So, last told, there we were, wet and dishevelled in Kanyakumari inspecting the end of India and the devastation of storm Ockhi which dampened us for a few days
Come morning, still wet, we head out, North
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| 3 wheel drive also works here |
We only have one working SIM, these are difficult to get in India, and Kayla, has the responsibility of guiding us now.
Whenever we move to our next destination, although it's not usually more than a few hundred kilometers, it's a pretty good bet that we have had a hard time getting there. We seem to go from exploring a town to exploring the rail and public transit systems and ending up exhausted whatever we do. Typically, Tuk to train or bus, train or bus, tuk to hotel. one full day of travelling, or overnight on the trains
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| Nagercoil Junction Train change due to the storm flooding, so snack fill up |
The storm that came through Kanyakumari left a swathe of devastation. We even had trouble paying the bill as the power was only supplied by generator and it was often out of fuel, so no power, no internet, no payment.
Eventually, we were ready, but the rails from Nagercoil to Kanyakumari had been washed away, so we had to travel Tuk like through the floods to Nagercoil. Even though the train now starts from here, it's hours late departing.
We arrive in Madurai, late, just for a change, once again.
We appear to have degenerated into a lesser environment. It smells more, and there's obviously less municipal care, budget, or personal pride here.
I've scored a 4+ star hotel for a very good price, about R2000 per room per night.
The hotel, in the centre of 3000 years of Hindu culture and devotion, has Christmas trees and music in the foyer.
It's excellent, but some way from anything "central". This is often a very good thing. and certainly here away from the centre of town it is a bit of a boon
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| This ones over 400 years old (no, not the one on the left) |
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A lesser part of the Sri Meenakshi
Temple, Madurai
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It was one of the best place we've eaten in, food and drink (no booze here) was about R500 each - an incredible amount for India, but really, $C10.00.
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| Anoint thyself with burnt cow dung folks |
I'm no longer amazed that we never get the craps. Really, the stereotype of Delhi Belly and Calcutta Runs is well out of date folks.
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| The Temple Tank for devotees bathing |
For our time here, we tuk down and its a typical chaotic mess. There's a lot of black shirted and longied adherents. They give me the willies as I feel a deep sense of fanaticism with these guys.
The architecture is immense, apparently, each building is repainted every 7 years, and all the towers look pretty pristine. Mostly, it's all been built and trashed by various armies over the millennium, I think this incarnation (get it?) was about 17th century renovations
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| Positively another astral plane |
We need to wear leg and body coverings (as in pix), as devotees, these folks don't need to.
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| Indiana Jones country |
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| Apparently, the centre of the Hindu Universe - as modelled |
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| Our guide gives us too much information about various gods The various Pantheon's are truly mind boggling |
Our guide has it all at his fingertips and can give you not only what the various statues are, but also the full history and relationship of all their incarnations.
It is truly astounding to listen to, not just how many deities there are, but the multiple incarnations of each one (Shiva apparently has 8 or 10?) depending upon his mood at the time.
Apparently, the more arms he has, the angrier he is.
My all time favourite is "Dancing Shiva" who has multiple arms and is standing on Apasmara, dwarf and demon of ignorance and epilepsy of all things.
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| Dancing Shiva statue stamping on ignorance - my kind of god |
This is the incarnation of Nandi. The cow which is able to whisper in Shiva's ear advising him on his possible course as his councillor. Hey, I'm not making this up
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| And this one is REALLY! pissed off |
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| Me and my transiting neophyte dancing partner |
I'm amazed at how all of this stuff holds together, or not. Most of these gods have been around for at least 2000 - 3000 years. And I thought Father, son and holy ghost was a lot to ask anyone to believe.
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| Amazing artefacts Huge roomfuls of cool stuff |
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| We're still touring the complex |
Shiva, or at least the earthly representation here in the temple, is moved from his bedroom early in the morning, and returned at night complete with holy processions to Meenaksi's chamber, to make sure he has a good nights kip etc etc. If you are up and here by 6AM, or late at 10PM, you can watch. We were not that dedicated
OK, so pausing only to check out a few lingam and yoni, variously identified as another Shiva representation, more commonly throughout central and southern Asia as a phallus and associated with Shiva in this place, and the Yoni, typically representing "Sanskrit: "womb", "uterus", "vagina", "vulva", "abode", or "source") ". You get the idea.
We have now done the major temples of southern India. So pausing only to book our train to Bangalore and our flights from Chennai to Udaipur we plan our final days with Kayla in India.
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| Well will you look at that. Up to date Economists in Madurai! |
Madurai is in Tamil Nadu, and we see that it's not clean or organised. It smells and there's a fair amount of pissing in the streets.I also notice a lot of leering at Kayla as we wander around. Not a good sign, and the first time I've noticed this in a few weeks
Kayla wants to go to a Hill Station as she missed out when we went to Ooty, so we catch the locals "government" bus for the 4 hour journey to Kodaikanal. A "must see" place apparently. Again, R60 for a 4 hour ride
The great thing about India is that it's so cheap. Cheap if you are ok with living like the locals that is. Kayla & I are old hands at this, the missus has been there and done that but suffers with our selection
The public transit systems are based around trains, tuks, taxis, buses, ola, uber
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| We're not sure if this means lost, or actually deserted |
The train system apparently employs over 1.3 million souls, (eighth largest employer in the world) and runs over 13000 trains per day, shuttling over 8 BILLION people trips around every year.
Every train station we have been through has police, sometimes army personnel with machine guns in attendance. There's also full X-ray scanning bags at the entrances, plus personal wanding occasionally
Usually this security level is not in use, and the security folks are always very friendly and helpful. It's just the ongoing security situation and no one appears to stress it
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| "Government" public buses. Mostly about 15+ years old, and it shows |
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| Nothing to see here. move along, shows over |
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| This was an attempt to rehabilitate the lake But it's overgrown and rotting. Move along |
The bus ride was pleasant enough. Occasionally compressed 6 into 4 seats, it was easy enough, and the local colour and the interactions with the locals and various and multiple assaults on the senses, especially at bus stations along the way, all add to the adventure
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| We stake our claim to the seats at the back of the bus |
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| I have to lug our bag up here I'm far too old (and white) to need to do this any more |
I miss booked this hotel in Kodaikanal thinking it was a different one. It's miles out of town, but had good food, and when the fog cleared, a decent view.
The hill station itself, much like Ooty. and the place we stayed at in Shimla are really run down Raj Memsahibs bungalow retreats gone way down hill. (that's ironic licences seeing as these places are typically above 2000 metres. They don't really have a purpose anymore except to offer the majority of middle class Indians a respite from the summer heat.
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| We return to the chaos of Madurai |
As it's now almost midwinter, India style, its mostly cold, misty, wet and pointless.
We head into town, Kayla & I wander around the central lake and that's about all there is here.
The hotel has no internet. strange for a place that seems to exist only be its ability to attract conferences. So, we remain incommunicado, and are happy to depart, back to Madurai on the bus again, then the overnight train to Bangalore.
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| Can you believe all this Paneer. Nothing "Gluten Free" or "No nut products" about this lot |
Luckily, the hotel in Bangalore allows us in at 8:30AM and we're free to explore the town.
We see early day Bangalore. It look lovely. Clean, green and very cosmopolitan.
As ever, we haven't slept too well on the train, but we need a coffee more than sleep. so, a "Cafe Coffee Day" is located and for lack of any other plan, head there in a Tuk.
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| Bengakuru is quite the fun place. |
It turns out to be not only quite expensive, but a totally shi-shi place without much quality.
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| A massive shopping centre. Bangalore appears to have everything, including heavy security |
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| Kayla found a great local brewery as soon as we arrived. Fantastic IPA |
The coffees here are all about "hints of chocolate" and "mesmerising your senses". Really marketing speak for paying 3 times as much as usual. 5 times as much if you factor in the size of the coffees. Kayla gets some kind of brushetta which has goopy Indian style Kraft slices of processed cheese. She doesn't finish it, and I wont touch it.
An incredible R1200 for pumped up product.
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| Some big shot's wedding in town |
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| We went inside, probably 1000 people all being entertained and fed |
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| Local art |
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| And this was the venue |
Ilge is into Christmas shopping, so we head to various department stores and thankfully find a cash machine that dispenses cash on our way back to the hotel.
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| The Bangalore "Palace" |
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| Remaining grandeur of the Maharaja Wadiyar, C1930 (Sitting on the right) |
Even here at the mall, there is full security at the entrance. Bags checked and everyone wanded in. His in the open with male security, hers in a curtained booth with females. I get my packet of fresh milk and head back to dinner at "the London Curry House" in the basement. Once again, really great food.
Next day, its off to the "Palace" of one Maharaja Jayachamaraja Wadiyar
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| Bangalore Marker |
A last kick at the Raj can it appears. There's a huge wedding going on. The First ministers (ie Premier in Canadian speak) daughter. There's a cast of thousands here.
OK, it's a piece of India, not terribly impressive. Faded photo's, marvelous rooms and concepts of wealth, but we've done far more ancient and splendid places than this.
We Tuk down to the remains of Bengalore Fort, taking in the huge local market here.
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| These are all spices, and all spice stores |
The market is huge and has just about everything you can think of, from fruit and veg to pots and pans to LED flashing Shiva depictions in classy plastic frames
The fort has seen better days, takes about 3 minutes to walk around and luckily is free entrance.
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| Bangalore Fort as it is, although it was huge until the Brits captured it |
Sounds like we're on our way home already
Next to the fort, we stumble across Bangalore's new subway. It has all the security and huge empty spaces and construction all over, but its extremely clean, efficient and at R12 for a 20 minute trip, very cheap.
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| A beauty products store in the mall. 11 sales assistants and just Kayla as a potential customer |
Kayla has a new SIM from her friend who now lives here, so I'm back to being independently able to see where I am on my phone
I put the ladies into a Tuk, back to the hotel and I decide to head back to the beer brewery - about 6Km away. I like to get to know the streets and the feel of the city, and as I wander, I feel like this is a great place
However, I'm not really in the market for great places to live any more, so I enjoy my beer, use the pubs wifi for some long distance VoIP calls and head back into the twilight
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| Bangalore Station. Note total lack of seething crowds for the 2AC |
We arrive in Chennai.
When you arrive and see several guys pissing against walls, mountains (slightly hyperbole) of trash strewn around and offending nasal signals, you know that maybe you shouldn't be here as a tourist.
We find bargaining for a Tuk to be part of some cartel. Eventually, we get a female Tuk driver (very unusual) who gives us a relatively decent price. I give her a big tip (about R30)
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| We inspect the local Government Museum |
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| Definite signs of Alexander the Great here |
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| A contract, 16th century style. About 50Kgs Madras, aka Chennai |
The security in India requires that tourists need to be tightly monitored. Most of this comes down to the hotels you stay at.
The first thing the hotel wants is your passport to check your visa. This is not just local information. Every hotel has to upload huge amounts of data to some central authority over the internet to some far off security server every night. This hotel told me they needed to make "6 copies" of the passport stuff.
What do we know?
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| Fort George Another run down Raj thing |
it appears that there's no real reason to come here.
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| Remaining piece of the old Chennai fort, demonstrated by the missus |
There's also government and legal archives, all on huge bronze tablets combined into massive "books" probably weighing 50Kg or more
There's also a very sad "Natural History Museum" in the complex included in the price that should have been condemned about 20 years ago, complete with a maybe life sized T Rex.
Kids love it, but it really needs a good curator and a decent budget.
The best part is the bronze museum which has quite a good collection
Fort George sounds like a place to go, but the actual fort turns out to be totally renovated into government offices, complete with police/ security services to protect it all and no stopping let alone parking for miles around
We have to hunt for it, but down a back alley, there's a remaining piece of the wall.
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| We are walking and pass this stream/ drain on the way back What's that rotting in there? There is an actual cow in there) You just wouldn't believe the stench |
We have to walk over the "river". Avid readers of this blog will maybe remember my description of a fast flowing river of sewage in Delhi. This river is also of similar composition, but slow flowing and quite literally breath taking. You really don't want to breath anywhere near here
How can I put it? The stench, rivers of filth, men pissing on walls where you pass in the street
Walking along this river, imagine sharing a bed with 40 people who have been eating spicy food all farting at once, under a thick blanket, and its still nothing like it. Even us as long time Indian travellers cannot compare it to anything in living memory.
So much for a cleaner south. Although it looks blue and rivery on the maps, these "rivers" are no such thing. It was disgusting
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| Finally, we're back home in Rajasthan. Udaipur Kankarwa Havali |
All of our flights are late, we have to argue for boarding passes as the connecting flight in Mumbai was supposed to have left an hour ago, yet another security check point in the airport, and after running for 10 minutes, are still waiting at the gate for another 30 minutes.
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| Eventually, we find the perfect ones Watch for these coming to a kitchen near you soon |
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| We do a grand tour of the artisans street looking for door knobs |
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| A great place to remember the best of India |
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| The best ever Dosa's |
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| Straight on past the pissing wall |
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| Left at the Cow |
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| Another wedding. Apparently this means 2 more days of celebrations to go? |
The last one I took in Bangkok was a true delight. A trip around the market to buy everything, then individual cooking stations for everyone. And the teacher really knew her stuff. The final results, even mine were astounding.
Sad to say, this one was really just watching someone make food. We had to work out what pot was destined for which dish, and the final results were less than stellar.
The only way to look at it was it cost R3300, and we didn't need dinner at about R800 - 1200. 'Nuff said
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| Northern Indian food cooking class? More chaos and distractions than cooking |
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| Sorry. Not worth it |
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| It was in fact a fun food fest |
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| Selecting our new bedspread |
Luckily, I still had enough $Canadian as cash and managed to settle up and have enough left for some Christmas and thank you goodies.
If you think you can face any part of India, then Udaipur is such a place for you. Other places may be more demanding, adventurous, boring, leering or totally full of mountains of trash, or rivers of filth. We all like it here.
Eventually, as the day fades, we catch the overnight train to Delhi. This is our last night, we leave for Toronto at 12:45 AM the next night; on the 16th.
Once again, the other folks in the carriage (4 + 2) are lovely people and we spend happy hours furthering our understanding of Indian society and the like.
Of course, in "AC2", we are always in the upper levels of the transit system, so everyone speaks good English and are typically professionals, or have been
Arriving next morning, the missus is in terrible shape with her cold, the cold (Dehli at 6:30AM was about 8C), and general tiredness. We find a warm enough cafe, and stake out a claim until Starbucks opens at 10
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| Udaipur is most definitely my favourite place in India |
We say our goodbyes
This is a kind of dead end day, where we simply warm up, have coffees and snacks until we leave for the airport around 5.
More waiting until we depart. I take drugs and sleep pretty well, even through the screaming baby
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Kayla back to Delhi, we are heading back to Toronto |
We never got close to a tiger (that we know of), so we have a reason to head back some day. Certainly, the Second Best Marigold Hotel gives some idea of India, but its only an indication of what India can be like. Certainly delightful in many ways, ancient, certainly, friendly, sophisticated, rural, deprived, dirty, clean.
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| We sadly depart our wonderful hotel in Udaipur, like early morning |
Our next trek is probably to France in April, and potentially Australia later in the year, so I'm already checking flights and fiddling with possibilities
Kayla has just booked a flight to Europe for a winter break on the Austrian and maybe French slopes, hoping to renew her French accent.
Aiden is quite content in his apartment with Laura and the 2 cats and we are relatively settled into some parts of Winter back here in Toronto
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| Our annual Christmas tree search on the Ontario Steppes |
If you got this far, you need a hobby
Enjoy your festives, and 2018.
We'll be back next year.
Ciao all
From your correspondent
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