Travels: A bloglette from the Southern Colonies
Trip route, Sydney to Hobart
OK, so this stuff isn't about traveling down the Mekong river to Luang Prabang, nor is it about roof top hotels in the Sri Lankan Jungles. We are simply off down under, and our subject matter is just that. Fairly civilised and understandable.
The reader may find this boring
So,
yes, I am now totally retired, having finally seen off the last of my
customers a few days before we left Toronto for the wilds for Van
Deimon's Land (VDL - see below). Being in this unusual situation, most
of my life being spent either working at work, plotting to work, working
at not working, or lying about what I have worked at, being unemployed,
permanently with no chance of parole as it were, for EVER, leaves me a
bit cold and rudderless. Not even sure the lack of cerebral stimulation
is going to do me in before my time, and its funny farm in Chiang Rai
for me...... Is traveling when retired a similar concept to working?
We're
scheduled for the ferry the next day, about 350Kms away, an easy ride,
it would appear as we are alive. Driving on these roads seems easy
enough, even my wobbles are fairly passive
Nothing doing here at the colony, not long since left, but all Spheniscidae have departed and left all the same, so we sit on their stony front step for a while and take in the view.
It's fun just traveling along the coast, Burnie, a detour into the Rocky Cape reserve which tells you to pay entrance fees but provides no way to pay them. Deserted, austere and quite photo oppish. Its a real change from the QEW back home, mostly a pleasant one. No squash games here though..
Its mostly green. Very different from the brown over the Bass straight. Large skinny trees are turning gold and brown. It's actually a real fall here. We see that the Australian past time of killing animals with vehicles is just as popular here as it is in Western Australia. Looks like its open season on Wallabies.
It's certainly a looser relaxed place to drive than Toronto. There's no stop signs or traffic lights - just "Give Way"'s at junctions, and usually 80Km/hr limits. Roundabouts everywhere. Very strange concept after Melbournes traffic lights
We are now in full tourist mode....
Its full on with Aussy grub, cafe style: pies, bacon & egg sandwiches and flat whites. Basically glorified (or less) pub food.
Adventuring out: Tarkine Forest Adventures at Dismal Swamp has a fun slide down about 20
metres of verticle drop, then about 500 metres of boardwalk around
said dismal forest. OK, just worth it for saying I've been to said
Dismal Forest. It's in the general direction of the western edge of the
island, quite wild and fairly deserted. I assume these areas are holiday
or retirement villages. There certainly appears to be a hollowing out A
local told us that the young folks are leaving, houses can be bought
for $14,000 in certain towns.
Head around the NW of the island, recently devastated by fires. Lots of 4 x 4 tracking, even have to take ferry across a river - this is more like it. No actual 4 wheel driving here though
We get stuck for the night in Zeehan an old mining town that may have seen better days. The best place in town is almost a dump, we should have traveled the extra 20 minutes to Strahan - we retire to a picnic dinner
OK, so this stuff isn't about traveling down the Mekong river to Luang Prabang, nor is it about roof top hotels in the Sri Lankan Jungles. We are simply off down under, and our subject matter is just that. Fairly civilised and understandable.
The reader may find this boring
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| Statutory pix of Toronto in winter now there's a surprise! |
Is
my new "career" traveling around foreign parts as a kind of non
paid travel consultant and adviser, and reporting back to you, the
viewer gentle reader? Generally without payment its true, but a great
meal and good bottle of wine from any of our subscribers when we get
back wouldn't go amiss. There's an idea. Watch this bloggette for news
Back
to the main sub plot: Typically, now retired back in Toronto and in the
middle of winter, I'm checking BBC news far more often than is good for
me.
The main issue, for me at least, was going to be whether I could adequately drive the cruiser, on the wrong side of the road with my new invisible friend, aka, the wobbles, preferably without killing too many people. I'll hold you in suspense for a while on that one
I did, during these dead times, find this reason
why many of you folks, happily (your mileage may vary) ensconced in
front of your TV on your comfy couch may find this article brings you
some comfort relating to said TV & couch: http://www.bbc.com/news/
No such qualms for us!
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| Statutory exclamation of how much better this feels in Sydney |
In Toronto, all my winter projects were done, and a final (?) snow fall sealed the deal. It
was late, maybe a bit too late (as I type in Northern VDL its cold and
miserable outside) for the long anticipated retrip to the southern
hemisphere, but we needed to make sure that medically we would either
make it out and back in reasonable (for our age) health, or literally
die in the attempt - its cheaper than a long drawn out illness in some
foreign hospital to be burnt and put into a pot that could fit into your
on board luggage
Eventually, we were more or less cleared
medically, (my wobbles still active, but no worse or further
debilitating. I can't think as well as I used to, but I doubt if anyone
notices) and having finally migrated to the better than cattle class of
air travel, booked at suitably short notice, for about 3 days time for,
well, actually Tasmania
Traveling in this relative comfort, I had pretty much no jet lag, and actually "enjoyed" a fair amount of kip, this without the aid of prescription . The missus? Well, a few days of very large ankles, seemed to be the worst of it
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| Turandot is playing in the harbour. Sorry, it really needs a theatre for acoustics and atmosphere |
The main issue, for me at least, was going to be whether I could adequately drive the cruiser, on the wrong side of the road with my new invisible friend, aka, the wobbles, preferably without killing too many people. I'll hold you in suspense for a while on that one
Oz was lovely and sweaty
when we arrived, pausing only to stock up at duty free (a must do
apparently), and eventually reached our main base of mates near Sydney
after a few false starts and finishes. We sorta catch up with Annie
& Gary, and pancake our way back into the Australian lifestyle
Sad
to say we've only booked about 8 weeks (cry me a river?) this gig, so
we're into the departure to VDL fairly fast. VDL is actually the last
place in Oz we haven't been to, and, it appears, there are lots of
vineyards there.
We have no sooner arrived then we are off to a
birthday party. I think we are there as a warning to the young folks
to enjoy yourselves while you can. I get to drive the cruiser there
and back. We all live
Happily, we find that our favourite opera,
Turandot is playing at the Sydney harbour, literally, floating in the
harbour, so we fix up a night to go. Really spectacular, but sadly
looses out on the acoustics of an open event. I hardly cried at all.....
Even so, with Sydney harbour as a backdrop the visuals are stunning.,
Sadly, the skyline was an easy distraction
On the way out of the
opera, we head off to the train and pass through a railway station with
more than its fair share of homeless. There's no antipathy I can feel,
but its instructive as to where the "Lucky Country" has taken some of
societies unfortunates
Pretty sobering, but maybe not for the guys rolled up in their sleeping rolls with the stuffing spilling out
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| One of the bars at the performance Definitely a first for experience, but way down the scale for art, which is what Opera should be |
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| Off to a local reservoir for a picnic with Annie & Gary |
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| Sunset in Melbourne, waiting for the ferry to Devonport, Tas |
Pretty sobering, but maybe not for the guys rolled up in their sleeping rolls with the stuffing spilling out
A picnic at a local conservation area, a few hands of bridge and were almost native and de jet lagged again
It's difficult to book a cruiser with a roof top tent onto the ferry due to height restrictions, so the tent is the first victim. Just as well as you really need hot!! weather for that, certainly we would never have used it in VDL temperatures. Also, the wagon needs some urgent TLC before we head out, which means it's into the shop for some urgently needed mechanical stuff (?)
It's difficult to book a cruiser with a roof top tent onto the ferry due to height restrictions, so the tent is the first victim. Just as well as you really need hot!! weather for that, certainly we would never have used it in VDL temperatures. Also, the wagon needs some urgent TLC before we head out, which means it's into the shop for some urgently needed mechanical stuff (?)
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| Northern Tasmanian beach, without penguins. |
After getting the truck sorted, we say
our farewells, get in and drive, make a dash to the highway, Ilge is
under strict instructions to let me know whenever I'm on the wrong side
of the road, or about to be. As long as I'm following someone, we should
live. .
I do notice the
road (and hence my grip on immediate instant reality via my wobbles)
conditions deteriorate once I cross from NSW to Victoria with bumpier
roads
We make it to the highway, and from there, its pretty
easy. For 500Km's that day, we take in the open road (its about 850 to
Melbourne) and no one died. It's really good to be back, I can feel the
tug of the outback in my guts, but not this time.
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| This in the town of "Penguin", Yep actually It's cold, but green Unusual for Australia |
The landscape is austere, dry and brown pretty much all the
way. Looks like there's hardly any rain here. We picnic after about
350Kms at a gas station cum road house cum cafe on the highway. Pretty
bleak. Apart from the cafe, the only facilities being a bog and a well
aged outdoor table to sit at. It's very reminiscent of the outback,
although there is less reason for it to be this shenzi here. We start to
remember what life on the road can be like
Another 150K's and a motel and grub seems too easy via Google maps.
Another 150K's and a motel and grub seems too easy via Google maps.
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| Tasmania is green, clean and to be perfectly honest, a bit dull |
Melbourne sneaks up on
you, I hate the traffic set up, probably even more than I hate
Montreal's road system. One slight mistake and your totally screwed -
we did, branch right, not turn right and we were screwed.
Toll roads of course everywhere, so you are suddenly funneled into totally the opposite direction, and you have to pay for it. My GPS keeps pinging me - masses of speed checks on the Victoria and Melbourne roads. Some seem to be located exactly, others a little late, but I'm always ready to meet or reduce from the speed limit. I don't treat speed limits as a suggested minimum, its just knowing what the limit is sometimes.
Arrive at the dock, heavy inspection for fruit (tossed) and gas containers (collect in Tas), but we're on board The "New" Spirit of Tasmania about 6:30PM. We supp on red wine and cheese and crackers on the main deck and generally have a totally non eventful voyage. There's a friendly wake up call at 5:45 AM, and we're in the car and out of the ship by 6:30. Its egg and bacon sandwich in Devonport and in an instant, we decide we're off in search of penguins along the north west coast.
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| So far, after 6 hours, still waiting to be impressed |
Toll roads of course everywhere, so you are suddenly funneled into totally the opposite direction, and you have to pay for it. My GPS keeps pinging me - masses of speed checks on the Victoria and Melbourne roads. Some seem to be located exactly, others a little late, but I'm always ready to meet or reduce from the speed limit. I don't treat speed limits as a suggested minimum, its just knowing what the limit is sometimes.
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| This is our first night's stop Staley, a promontory north west corner Seems that the old post office has a room to let |
Arrive at the dock, heavy inspection for fruit (tossed) and gas containers (collect in Tas), but we're on board The "New" Spirit of Tasmania about 6:30PM. We supp on red wine and cheese and crackers on the main deck and generally have a totally non eventful voyage. There's a friendly wake up call at 5:45 AM, and we're in the car and out of the ship by 6:30. Its egg and bacon sandwich in Devonport and in an instant, we decide we're off in search of penguins along the north west coast.
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| There's a fair amount of artscapes on the island This one was about 25 metres down a big pipe |
It's fun just traveling along the coast, Burnie, a detour into the Rocky Cape reserve which tells you to pay entrance fees but provides no way to pay them. Deserted, austere and quite photo oppish. Its a real change from the QEW back home, mostly a pleasant one. No squash games here though..
Its mostly green. Very different from the brown over the Bass straight. Large skinny trees are turning gold and brown. It's actually a real fall here. We see that the Australian past time of killing animals with vehicles is just as popular here as it is in Western Australia. Looks like its open season on Wallabies.
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| Trees and bits as art. Why not? |
Occasional Wombats, inflated and feet in the air, lots of bones and
unidentifiable bits on the side of the roads.
About 150Kms out, we finally settle in Stanley, find a cottage (they appear to be easy enough to find - more on this later), next to the core of a defunct volcano. At the local fish'n chip shop there are also local delicacy "Craws" AKA lobsters. About $150/Kg. The "special" here is half a craw and chips for $85.00. We know our place and live it up with fish and chips and a dozen raw oysters. Yum
About 150Kms out, we finally settle in Stanley, find a cottage (they appear to be easy enough to find - more on this later), next to the core of a defunct volcano. At the local fish'n chip shop there are also local delicacy "Craws" AKA lobsters. About $150/Kg. The "special" here is half a craw and chips for $85.00. We know our place and live it up with fish and chips and a dozen raw oysters. Yum
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| A different outback Not exactly the Gibb, oh well, onward and outward |
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| The farther out from the ferry, the less developed it becomes. |
It's certainly a looser relaxed place to drive than Toronto. There's no stop signs or traffic lights - just "Give Way"'s at junctions, and usually 80Km/hr limits. Roundabouts everywhere. Very strange concept after Melbournes traffic lights
We are now in full tourist mode....
Its full on with Aussy grub, cafe style: pies, bacon & egg sandwiches and flat whites. Basically glorified (or less) pub food.
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| Pretty, but probably the wrong sort of adventure for me |
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| Sand dunes. As I said, not particularly inspiring here |
Head around the NW of the island, recently devastated by fires. Lots of 4 x 4 tracking, even have to take ferry across a river - this is more like it. No actual 4 wheel driving here though
We get stuck for the night in Zeehan an old mining town that may have seen better days. The best place in town is almost a dump, we should have traveled the extra 20 minutes to Strahan - we retire to a picnic dinner
The weather is wonderful, reminiscent
of the best of South African winters, cold nights, cloudless clear
bright days. The air is so clean, you don't notice you're breathing.
Unlike the mainland where at least the Aboriginals are acknowledges as being original inhabitants, if no longer "owners" of the land. Here in Taz there is a palpable denial of anything before 1830. The years 1830 - 1860 are pretty much non existent, except for the arrival of ever increasing convicts, nothing relating to the consequences (more later) is part of anything historical. The land was, shall we say "exploited". But then so were all colonies. The difference here is that the colonists were either convicts, or convicts goalers. Not exactly the cream of the crop, even by Brit colonists standards, so it was also terribly managed
I screwed up Hobarts one way system, so we are
suddenly way out of town. Google maps find us our home for the night,
and we check in. We eat out. Seems like tourist season is now over, and
there's only one place open where we end up.
Oz and New Zealand don't expect tipping, it's in the food prices which are maybe 30% - 40% more than I'd expect to pay in Canada. Quality is hit and miss, some fantastic cafes, some dreadful "Bistro's". Ah, The Wine's the thing. Great Oz Shiraz, NZ Sav's. Stuff we happily pay $C18 for in Toronto is on special here for $6..... The Oz cows are apparently very happy here. Beef lots cheaper, and much better than Canada. We stop in at a local cheesery. I've never paid $125/Kg for cheese before, but yes, these were also happy sheep.
Upon leaving our cottage for the night, its down south, around the peninsula to Franklin, there's a tiny museum. Piles of stuff about Franklin and the environs (apparently the French surveyed this area long before the Brits). Totally the European dimension, One print (from the French) of the Aborigines, - usual noble savage stuff, otherwise, lots of accounts of convicts, and prisoners of war, nothing concerning the original locals.
The volunteer there explains that all the indigenous material was given to the local surviving Abbo's, but theres no trace of their museum apart from a flag down the road. Denial by any other name I guess. We did read (somewhere) that the last full bloodied Aborigine died around 1850, so not sure what gene pool is currently in circulation
Finally, the weather breaks and is crap. Cold and wet. We head to the MONA. The Museum of Old and New Art just north of Hobart. Its pretty wild. Not only is there a room featuring sacks of coal, but also a room of "Cloaca": several interconnected hanging pots that are fed at one end (feeding time at 10:00AM), but also craps (viewing time 2:00PM). For the artistically minded porno aficionado, there's an exhibit on several walls entitled "Cunts". 72 of them to be precise. Anyone needing further elucidation, please send a request in a plain brown envelope. There's also a couch that growls and moans, a toilet with mirrors to allow you to watch yourself, well, whatever actually, which comes complete with opera glasses, a sculpture (I think) of half a Palestinian, post suicide bomb belt blast. You get the idea
Lots and lots more. Certainly art as a means of questioning What It's All About. I loved it
Port Arthur is a lovely area (the main
draw of the penal colony just being a focus), our cottage/ motel is a
great place to hang out in, great gardens and Gn't's abound. We live on
the food we've brought from Hobart, as once again, there's no store here
and the local restaurants close at 6:00PM.
But we've done the penal stuff, the convict built cottages: enough already, is that it?
Looks
like we've screwed up Kayla's itinerary by heading here, she wanted to
do "stuff" on the other side of the island, but can't see how we can fit
it all in now. Walking, forests. We head up to central Taz, Mount
Forest National Park. We book a 2 nighter. We start late and I have to
drive north west, into the sunset. My affliction does not like it,
driving into the sun for 2 hours on narrow winding, hilly roads. I
arrive exhausted and very cranky. I hope the specialists in Toronto
can come up with a fix for this when I get back. Really, this was the
pits
Lots of facilities here at and "Eco Lodge" like a full garden with a friendly "Help Yourself" sign on the gate. Marvelous. Pretty fresh apples, beetroot (not my idea but it was very good) spuds, fresh dug, eggs etc. truly wonderful.
A walk in the woods, (yes, still more here), a few waterfalls, huge trees, about 3 hours around an easy loop. Cool. A perfect day for it
Did I mention the stars? At
night out here. just amazing. The air (ditto), so clean and scented with
the fall colours, even at night
The place, even though its totally off season, is absolutely
packed. Daft prices for "Eughh!" places. Off for a campground shack,
and theres a guy behind me waiting for a place if I dont take it, and
theres about 100 shacks here and its only Thursday and in the off
season. At least the local pub is within walking distance and has the
best chips ever. Terrible beer though.
Next day, I don my trusty
walking shoes and Kayla & I head to our 13 Km loop around 2 bays:
hourglass bay is one of them. Fantastic views, but not as wonderful as
our walk in the woods. About half way along my foot starts to complain.
7Kms to go. After we get back and I finally take of my well worn in
boots, a chunk of my foot comes out of my sock. Ho Hum.
One more day to do some local vineyards. Taz wine is hardly ever available in the mainland stores. Here you can find a wall of the stuff in liquor stores. Mostly expensive.
We persevere. I'm spot guy with the
driving...... Some not bad stuff, not too expensive from the cellar
doors. Mostly free tastings, and occasionally great views to sup with. I
persevere. Apparently, one local who we meet getting his birthday
treat of 6 bottles of wine at one of the cellar doors, explains, that
its usually miserable here from about 3 weeks back. He also admits to
knowing that Taz history is pretty bleak when it comes to the original
convict settlers Aboriginals "Heads dangling from belts". yikes! Don't
remember that on "The Wall" from a few weeks back. Apparently, the whole
island was cleared of local inhabitants by a wave of government agents
who crossed the island in a chain and drove the entire indigenous local
population into a collecting point to be ferried to Flinders Island
north of the colony, seems only about 20 survived and the last "true
Aborigine" died in 1860
Kayla want's to catch up with here social milieu, so heads to the local gaming locale. It rains again
I pass further into aging not so gracefully on my 67th birthday. A StoneGrill; one of our favourite destinations, should be wonderful, the place was, but food was really only average.
It doesn't charge for entry, so that's about the right price.
The Australian budget is announced, I'm surprised that the country is so far in the hole, far worse than Canada. It's all theatre of course. There's an election for both houses called 5 days later.
No pix as they are threatened by flash and its
not allowed.
Arrive Sydney April 8, 9th 10th, 11th, 12th
Albery, NSW April 13th
Tas Ferry April 14th
Stanley, NW Tas - The Nut April 15
Zehan, NW Tas April 16
Bronte Park - Derwent Bridger, Tas April 17
Hamilton, "Victoria Cottage" Tas April 18
Telopea Cottage, Woodbridge, Tas April 19th
Hobart April 20th - 21 22nd
Port Arthur April 23 - 24
Sassafras, Ellendale April 25 - 26
Gumtree Cottage, Ross 27 April
Iluka Coles Bay 28, 29, 30 Apr
Homelea Cottage, St Helens 1 May
Pioreti Bridport 2 May
Adina Place Launceston 3 and 4 May
Port Sorell 5 May
Spirit of Taz 6 May
Nepean spa, Mornington Peninsula, Vic 7 - 12 May
Phillip Island Vic 13 May
Sale, Vic 14 May
Eden (near) Vic 15 May
Bega, NSW 16 & 17 May
Catherine Field, Sydney 18 - 20th May
Derwent
Bridge: we've been told by several folk to head here for "The Wall",
which is "Dedicated to the people who helped make Tasmania what it is
today" the history of Tasmanian Highlands in the form of a sculpted wall
Beautifully carved huge wooden panels: 100 metres long when finished (6 to go) , one guy carving for 40+ years. "Sculptor Greg Duncan is carving the history of Tasmanian Highlands in the form of a sculpted wall" http://thewalltasmania.com.au/
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| Well, this is the life for a retired programmer I know, there are better lives. This in Hamilton |
Beautifully carved huge wooden panels: 100 metres long when finished (6 to go) , one guy carving for 40+ years. "Sculptor Greg Duncan is carving the history of Tasmanian Highlands in the form of a sculpted wall" http://thewalltasmania.com.au/
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| Beautifully renovated cottage. We're still just driving around aimlessly. OK No problem |
We start to realise how Taz is
connected, deeply, to wood, convicts and the European influx. Seems the
original population never existed
Taz is relatively small, so we pass through pastures, forests, destroyed forests, sand dunes, beaches, rural and urban. Inland, there's an over riding sense of farming and wood based activities that permeates. Natural resources are down in price so we see towns that are almost completely unemployed. Queenstown used to be a thriving copper mining community. There's is a small museum in town run by volunteers. It shows the origins, the deprivations, the sheer manual exertions and horror of the environmental devastation and rampant exploitation of this land. Of course, we, safe in the 21st century have no right to judge a country, the people or the processes they needed to live by 5 or 10 generations ago which is actually the base of the the infrastructure that we use today.
Taz is relatively small, so we pass through pastures, forests, destroyed forests, sand dunes, beaches, rural and urban. Inland, there's an over riding sense of farming and wood based activities that permeates. Natural resources are down in price so we see towns that are almost completely unemployed. Queenstown used to be a thriving copper mining community. There's is a small museum in town run by volunteers. It shows the origins, the deprivations, the sheer manual exertions and horror of the environmental devastation and rampant exploitation of this land. Of course, we, safe in the 21st century have no right to judge a country, the people or the processes they needed to live by 5 or 10 generations ago which is actually the base of the the infrastructure that we use today.
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| Somewhere in here, there's platypus duck swimming |
But there is an
obvious inherited sense left in the community of the past. Yes, it was
tough, no doubt and an environmental disaster here
Unlike the mainland where at least the Aboriginals are acknowledges as being original inhabitants, if no longer "owners" of the land. Here in Taz there is a palpable denial of anything before 1830. The years 1830 - 1860 are pretty much non existent, except for the arrival of ever increasing convicts, nothing relating to the consequences (more later) is part of anything historical. The land was, shall we say "exploited". But then so were all colonies. The difference here is that the colonists were either convicts, or convicts goalers. Not exactly the cream of the crop, even by Brit colonists standards, so it was also terribly managed
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| Sadly, I've come to the conclusion that all of Australia is like this. Unless there's a threat to your very existence, it's just dull, dull, DULL! |
There's a big pile of national parks that make
up, maybe a third of the island. Mainly forests (more wood). Heading
down from Derwent Bridge ("The Wall"), we stop in Hamilton, where theres
quite a few cottages, built, of course by convicts in the early 1800's.
Yet again, the village has lost its services. no garages, shop or
anything except a pub, a place for "High Tea" and 2 cafes. Looks like
they live solely on tourists now. We get a beautiful little cottage,
"Victoria Cottage", forage for food for a barbecue at one of the cafe's
(they're used to it apparently). It's finally warm enough for a Gin
& Tonic, and head down to the local river for duck billed platypus
sightings. We eventually see one, or at least its trail in the water as
the sun sets. Back for a good old fashioned fire (more wood)
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| Hobart, and finally, some sun It's a fun place, but we had a truly worst ever Airbnb |
Kayla
has decided to come down from near Brisbane, so we head toward Hobart
for her flight. An amazing place, everywhere appears to be on a hill
overlooking the sea. Stunning. Stopping only to decide at the
information centre that they have very little idea about finding
accommodation for us, I loose my direction when the GPS goes suddenly
walkabout and end up somewhere a long way south.
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| I'm up early for Kayla's flight. She's been up for 4+ hours by the time I pick her up |
Our main, in
fact only locator for accommodation, cafe, coffee, supermarkets etc is
now officially Google Maps. Depending on your requirements,
"accommodation", "cottage" or maybe "B&B" or if desperate "Motel" is
all we need.
There's instant referencing to reviews, website, and phone.
Its so simple, even I can do it. cottages here, in Oz, and New Zealand,
being fully self contained and pretty much the same price as a hotel
room. As long as you have service on your smart phone (sound familiar?),
its a donedeal
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| "Cloaca" Eats, digests, shits. Daily All available as exhibitions |
Oz and New Zealand don't expect tipping, it's in the food prices which are maybe 30% - 40% more than I'd expect to pay in Canada. Quality is hit and miss, some fantastic cafes, some dreadful "Bistro's". Ah, The Wine's the thing. Great Oz Shiraz, NZ Sav's. Stuff we happily pay $C18 for in Toronto is on special here for $6..... The Oz cows are apparently very happy here. Beef lots cheaper, and much better than Canada. We stop in at a local cheesery. I've never paid $125/Kg for cheese before, but yes, these were also happy sheep.
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| 72 "Cunts". Yes, from willing models I understand Tastefully lit and displayed at MONA Of course, every self respecting Feminist will retort that these are in reality, Vulvas |
Upon leaving our cottage for the night, its down south, around the peninsula to Franklin, there's a tiny museum. Piles of stuff about Franklin and the environs (apparently the French surveyed this area long before the Brits). Totally the European dimension, One print (from the French) of the Aborigines, - usual noble savage stuff, otherwise, lots of accounts of convicts, and prisoners of war, nothing concerning the original locals.
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| This was a popular talking point A bog with camera's and mirrors (don't ask) |
The volunteer there explains that all the indigenous material was given to the local surviving Abbo's, but theres no trace of their museum apart from a flag down the road. Denial by any other name I guess. We did read (somewhere) that the last full bloodied Aborigine died around 1850, so not sure what gene pool is currently in circulation
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| Hobart is a lovely little place with more real sunshine. Well, it's a change from the mainland |
I make the mistake of
an Airbnb for Hobart. Its a dump, its also cold and you can't have a
decent shower. Kayla arrives early (7:15AM) next day, after some last
minute schedule readjustments like sleeping at Sydney airport for the
night. Yes it closes for "security reasons".
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| Port Arthur old colonial convicts camp, more recently site of massacre which resulted in national firearms ban |
Finally, the weather breaks and is crap. Cold and wet. We head to the MONA. The Museum of Old and New Art just north of Hobart. Its pretty wild. Not only is there a room featuring sacks of coal, but also a room of "Cloaca": several interconnected hanging pots that are fed at one end (feeding time at 10:00AM), but also craps (viewing time 2:00PM). For the artistically minded porno aficionado, there's an exhibit on several walls entitled "Cunts". 72 of them to be precise. Anyone needing further elucidation, please send a request in a plain brown envelope. There's also a couch that growls and moans, a toilet with mirrors to allow you to watch yourself, well, whatever actually, which comes complete with opera glasses, a sculpture (I think) of half a Palestinian, post suicide bomb belt blast. You get the idea
Lots and lots more. Certainly art as a means of questioning What It's All About. I loved it
 |
| Our hotel has some dorm of garden for lounging in Here, Gin N Tonic |
Hobart
feels like a fun place, but it remains mostly wet and miserable. On our
way out, being Saturday, there's this great market; Salamanca market,
it's a lovely day and the buskers serenade you as you have your coffee
and apples
Off to Port Arthur where Australia's worst massacre took place about 25 years ago.
Off to Port Arthur where Australia's worst massacre took place about 25 years ago.
It's also originally a penal colony
dating back to 1830. The Brits really made a mess of this place. Mass
deportation, ignorant soldiers in charge of them, sadistic and stupid
overseers, and the dregs of the upper classes to control all of the
above. What could possibly go wrong?
 |
| "Ghost Tour" Total rubbish |
 |
| Family shot, somewhere... |
The Taz population appear to
rate this heritage as some kind of benefit. The tours around the prison
are totally didactic. No way to ask anything. The "Ghost Tour" is simply
a cynical exploitation of a few old cottages. But it's always
overbooked. Go figure. Fantastic night stars though. Very picturesque as
soon as the sun shines. The tour at least puts the islanders
perspective into focus; "I'm not going to talk about any history before
1830". There you have it.
 |
| Tasmanian highlands |
But we've done the penal stuff, the convict built cottages: enough already, is that it?
 |
| Tasmanian version of outback |
 |
| A (chilly) picnic at Russel Falls |
Lots of facilities here at and "Eco Lodge" like a full garden with a friendly "Help Yourself" sign on the gate. Marvelous. Pretty fresh apples, beetroot (not my idea but it was very good) spuds, fresh dug, eggs etc. truly wonderful.
A walk in the woods, (yes, still more here), a few waterfalls, huge trees, about 3 hours around an easy loop. Cool. A perfect day for it
 |
| Now this was a lovely place. Ellendale, central Tasmanian highlands I was totally exhausted when I got here |
 |
| The attached garden and orchard Help yourself |
 |
| So we did Totally end of season, but really good |
I wax lyrical - about time too
 |
| A lot of Tas inland is picture perfect English village This is Ross, central east Tas. Pretty mundane |
Another
walk is planned on the coast. Miserable drive. We stop at Ross. Great
coffees and pies and decide to stay the night. There's a (convicts)
"Female Factory" here. but it turns out to be the foundations of a
ruined one. Oh yes, the bridge was built by......... convicts
But its cold and wet, so we stay for the night
Insight: "The town of Ross lies in lands that were traditionally owned by Tasmanian Aborigines" - Wikipedia
"Geoffrey Blainey wrote that by 1830 in Tasmania 'Disease had killed most of them but warfare and private violence had also been devastating."Other historians regard the Black War as one of the earliest recorded modern genocides'". ibid
 |
| These guys certainly know how to wield a chainsaw Campbell Town |
Insight: "The town of Ross lies in lands that were traditionally owned by Tasmanian Aborigines" - Wikipedia
"Geoffrey Blainey wrote that by 1830 in Tasmania 'Disease had killed most of them but warfare and private violence had also been devastating."Other historians regard the Black War as one of the earliest recorded modern genocides'". ibid
The
local museum shares the tourist trade such as it is with a great
coffee shop ("Try our world famous Vanilla slice"). Massive exhibits of
wool and how its obtained. Cottage industries, ancient farming
equipment, personal details of the convicts who put up the bridge etc
etc. Having trouble containing yourself huh?
 |
| Wineglass Bay trek |
Heaters and TV is about the highlight of this gig
Next
to Coles Bay. Kayla having her first "driving lesson" on the stick
shift diesel land cruiser. Lots of things to remember. No one dies on
route. Kayla almost screaming at me
No, I'm not a great teacher
 |
| Bit of a hike. My feet fell off |
 |
| Lookout Point. Hard work without good worn in hiking boots |
 |
| Wineglass Bay Not even half way and my feet are falling apart |
 |
| Friendly Beaches. Freycinet National Park, Tasmania |
 |
| Tas wine is ok. I prefer the mainland |
 |
| As abstemious as I am, I stay sober for the wine trip |
One more day to do some local vineyards. Taz wine is hardly ever available in the mainland stores. Here you can find a wall of the stuff in liquor stores. Mostly expensive.
 |
| We did about 5 vineyards. A pleasant enough day out, for Tas |
 |
| "Aboriginals heads dangling from belts" Whispered by a customer picking up his monthly allotment from this winery "not the sort of thing they teach you at school here" |
There's not much in the history books about this apparently. How does it go? If you ignore the past you are doomed to repeating it......
So, in general several glorious days in
Coles Bay. I book Kayla onto the ferry with us, it would actually be
cheaper for her to fly, but she's worth the expense, then we drive in
the rain.
 |
| Yep, it's pretty, but not the best wine I've ever had, and they charge for tasting |
Kayla has a few more turns at the driving wheel, she's fine
except for roundabouts, and me being her teacher.
I realise that
 |
| It's cold and raining so we stop at a lavender farm to warm up. Nothing much here unless you like lavender, which the Japanese appear to |
I realise that
Just about all the place names in Tas are English, I can't remember
one example of original Aboriginal derivation. On the mainland, road
signs are full of local Aboriginal names. Here all references to the
indigenous folks appear to be, not even wiped out, but strangely, non
existent. I do go on again.
A wet, miserable drive north, about
the only highlight is stopping in St Helen's for the night and heading
up the peninsula for Binalong Bay on the Bay of Fires coast, so called
because the first observer (French) saw all the Aboriginal fires there
at night. Its rough out, raw and a great reason to get back and warm up.
I search for more oyster farms. All are closed today. No aphrodisiacs
for me tonight
At the fish shop for fresh salmon, there are huge
crabs in the tanks (probably 8Kgs) and lobsters, apparently the Japanese
pay $100+/ kg for them.
The rain stops but winter is approaching, clear skies but I fry indoors rather than barbecue outside
We make our way across country to Launceston eventually. For hours its like driving through tropical monsoons the downpour so heavy. The cruiser widscreen leaks. Like perfect tourists, we stop for a cheese factory. Luckily $125/Kg cheese is now so much Been there, Done that.
 |
| A few more vineyards, but I need it warmer to really enjoy |
The rain stops but winter is approaching, clear skies but I fry indoors rather than barbecue outside
We make our way across country to Launceston eventually. For hours its like driving through tropical monsoons the downpour so heavy. The cruiser widscreen leaks. Like perfect tourists, we stop for a cheese factory. Luckily $125/Kg cheese is now so much Been there, Done that.
 |
| Indeed, summer's really gone... |
We
snag the last room in a very accessible motel in central Launceston so
we can walk everywhere. A cute fun little town. Lots of typical olde
worldy shops and stuff to while away the rainy hours and prepare for my
entry into my 68th year
Kayla has a day on a treetops tour,
dangling on ropes between huge trees.
I've done that. I've also been wine tasting, but that doesn't stop me from retracing my steps. Ilge & I do about 5, or 6, as Kayla dangles. Usually a bottle purchased at each, not always the best. Reds are poor, (Pinot Noir), whites, not so bad, Savs, Chardonnays, and even!! The Horror! Pinot Gris. We even buy a few. At the end of our samplings we have about 10 bottles
 |
| Kayla took the day off |
I've done that. I've also been wine tasting, but that doesn't stop me from retracing my steps. Ilge & I do about 5, or 6, as Kayla dangles. Usually a bottle purchased at each, not always the best. Reds are poor, (Pinot Noir), whites, not so bad, Savs, Chardonnays, and even!! The Horror! Pinot Gris. We even buy a few. At the end of our samplings we have about 10 bottles
 |
| My birthday treat. Stone cooked steak |
 |
| Probably the worst I've ever had But the look really good |
 |
| Yes, here it is. I've waited many decades for this moment |
I pass further into aging not so gracefully on my 67th birthday. A StoneGrill; one of our favourite destinations, should be wonderful, the place was, but food was really only average.
The Launceston
museum. I guess there isn't much in the way of budget for this, lots of
portraits of the nouveau bourgeoisie, and a fossil (the guy at the front
desk?) or two. Lots of stuffed animals and butterflies stuck with pins.
Upstairs theres a montage of Aborigines (Yes I know, I do go on about
this) that were painted each from a sketch then amalgamated together and
painted as a whole group, complete with Rousseau noble savage backdrop,
actually painted in London. That's it for the original locals.
Apparently just a few of them survived being sent to Flinders Island,
and most were dead by the time the painting was completed.
 |
| We wander around a wine loop, but it's not as friendly or even has as good a selection of wines as South Australia or Marlborough |
It doesn't charge for entry, so that's about the right price.
The Australian budget is announced, I'm surprised that the country is so far in the hole, far worse than Canada. It's all theatre of course. There's an election for both houses called 5 days later.
Heading
north just for the statutory photo op at Batman Bridge, we while away
another wet day, then head to Davonport, waiting for the ferry out back
to Melbourne.
A nice easy passage (there's a funny line here, but I'll leave it to you folks)
Once on land, Saturday morning its time for our timeshare.
 |
| Killing time at "The Axemans Hall of Fame" (Yes, really) waiting for our ferry back to Melbourne |
A nice easy passage (there's a funny line here, but I'll leave it to you folks)
Once on land, Saturday morning its time for our timeshare.
Once
out, even at 6:30AM, everywhere in Melbourne, there are the Lycra
brigade on bicycles, but everywhere. I seem to remember there are 3 bike
paths, one on each side of the road, and one on the beach path. The one
on our side is often 4 abreast with Lycra. Huge numbers of cyclist.
If
anyone has seen the motorbikes queuing up at traffic lights in HCMC
(Saigon to you folks), it reminds me of that. Its actually intimidating
and I'm very glad to stop in a side street for a coffee.
Stopping only to shop at Costco, (Duh!), its off to Mornington peninsular. The place has a great rating but it's not warranted. It rains a lot. There are 5 of us, Annie & Gary, our Sydney
 |
| Ditto at the local chocolate factory. The hot chocolate was in fact excellent though |
Stopping only to shop at Costco, (Duh!), its off to Mornington peninsular. The place has a great rating but it's not warranted. It rains a lot. There are 5 of us, Annie & Gary, our Sydney
hosts, Kayla & us. Kayla
gets the pull out couch. We're reduced to card games, food, the "Gym"
for the missus and the occasional trip to a food store or bank and the
occasional fray into refugees and global warming. No one dies.
Kayla
has applied for a non paid (again - it's de facto here) gig at a horse
training farm, strangely enough in this huge country, it's just up the
road from us and she drives us there to check it out. She and the owner
seem to get on and she' got a 2 - 3 month gig. Something to see out the
winter at least.
 |
| We are back on Mornington Peninsula for a time share with Annie & Gary |
 |
| Mornington Peninsula. Like most of this trip, nothing special here |
 |
| The Peninsula Hot Springs. It was packed, and mediocre, but probably the highlight of the week here |
Being in the hot tub at the timeshare is warmer
in than being out, but not by much, we brave it, once. lots of cards,
some bridge, a trip to the local hot springs, a pedicure for the ladies
and that's pretty much the highlights folks
Kayla is dropped at the
horse farm on Friday afternoon, and its off to Phillip Island for your
intrepid researchers. This is the place the missus has always wanted me
to go to to check out the penguins. We take the premium economy seating
(seniors discounted), the other (2000?! odd) are in the bleachers. We're
very close to the penguin walkways, and watch the last surfer walk off
into the sunset. It's quite dark before they arrive; 200 - 300? of them.
OK, so they're quite cute.
 |
| The highlights of the local beach Dire isn't it |
No pix as they are threatened by flash and its
not allowed.
 |
| The cottage Equestrian Facility. Kayla is an equestrian intern. We say goodbye for a few years. It didn't end well here |
 |
| OK, I've heard so much about this place: Phillips Island Nature Parks, Penguin Watchout. Quite cute actually |
East, around the coastline, it's flat and
relatively green, more happy cows. Seems that this area is also whale
watching paradise.
Oysters are about again, $7/ dozen, tiny, a real pain to shuck, I keep all my fingers. Just the process now. A thought to live with during the months to come. Eden to Bega is a beautiful trek. New South Wales has a few more hills here, but South Wales? Hmmmmmmup
Bega for 2 days, its sunny and very enjoyable, then finally, a long 550+Km trek back to Sydney. Late and super wobbly. I'm a wreck again, but the van isn't. Everything survives the ordeal and lives to type another day, and here it is folk
Our travels have not really exposed us to the average cobber like we did last time over. The main impression is that Tas, much like most of the mainland is a rural community, tending toward crisis. Work in Tas appears to be farming, mining, timber, fishing, tourism. It looks like a great place to retire to. Like many places on the mainland, the smaller places seem to be closing down except for tourism, the young are few and far between except in the cities, which are vibrant, even on a world stage, Hobart can compete.
Aus still appears to be coasting off of its "Lucky Country" mentality where theres always more pay increases, cars, better housing and great potential for your kids. But now there isn't so much easy living left. Not until the world starts buying its raw materials again anyway. After 25 years of good times, hard times are not acceptable to the population which is always happy to blame the lack of ever expanding income on external factors and of course the ever popular scapegoat, the politicians. A pox on all your houses it is then, but, a total revamp of taxes, social payouts, health care, maybe even immigration will be up for grabs if there is a realistic government elected. not that you could actually get elected by being truthful here it appears
 |
| Bermagui NSW, local delicacies |
Oysters are about again, $7/ dozen, tiny, a real pain to shuck, I keep all my fingers. Just the process now. A thought to live with during the months to come. Eden to Bega is a beautiful trek. New South Wales has a few more hills here, but South Wales? Hmmmmmmup
 |
| here's lots, and in season I always carry an oyster knife in my kitchen kit |
Bega for 2 days, its sunny and very enjoyable, then finally, a long 550+Km trek back to Sydney. Late and super wobbly. I'm a wreck again, but the van isn't. Everything survives the ordeal and lives to type another day, and here it is folk
 |
| And why not? Get it all done at the same time I guess |
Our travels have not really exposed us to the average cobber like we did last time over. The main impression is that Tas, much like most of the mainland is a rural community, tending toward crisis. Work in Tas appears to be farming, mining, timber, fishing, tourism. It looks like a great place to retire to. Like many places on the mainland, the smaller places seem to be closing down except for tourism, the young are few and far between except in the cities, which are vibrant, even on a world stage, Hobart can compete.
 |
| Eden NSW. A lovely area around here |
Aus still appears to be coasting off of its "Lucky Country" mentality where theres always more pay increases, cars, better housing and great potential for your kids. But now there isn't so much easy living left. Not until the world starts buying its raw materials again anyway. After 25 years of good times, hard times are not acceptable to the population which is always happy to blame the lack of ever expanding income on external factors and of course the ever popular scapegoat, the politicians. A pox on all your houses it is then, but, a total revamp of taxes, social payouts, health care, maybe even immigration will be up for grabs if there is a realistic government elected. not that you could actually get elected by being truthful here it appears
 |
| Pambula. A lovely place for an early or late, lunch |
Realism about the new world order is hard to come by here.
 |
| Bega, staying at Annies cousin. It's really lovely here, if you can find parking that is |
Yes,
the beef if fantastic, Tas fish and pate's are great, iron ore is 80%
pure, coal is in abundance, but these will not pay for everyone's
pension. Aus will need some austerity, a la Maggie, and yes,
immigrants to pay for pensions in the future unless there is a
spectacular change in raw material prices over the next 5 years. Even
then, it will only delay the final outcome
 |
| Tathra, lovely relaxed place |
The reality, IMHO is
that Australia is now being forced to compete in trade on world terms.
There's lots of cheap labour out there in the rest of the world, sure,
there's cheaper, or better products on the world market, so survival of
the current life style is, sadly, unlikely.
Suddenly, (as if!), we are about to leave Oz for Japan. I wonder if my inability to Blog is directly due to my lack of my previous life of consulting around the world, from various deserts and jungle roof tops. Now I have no reason to get my trusty laptop (XP even) - my preferred blogging device, out to tickle the keyboards. So, ok, I'm lax and retired
Suddenly, (as if!), we are about to leave Oz for Japan. I wonder if my inability to Blog is directly due to my lack of my previous life of consulting around the world, from various deserts and jungle roof tops. Now I have no reason to get my trusty laptop (XP even) - my preferred blogging device, out to tickle the keyboards. So, ok, I'm lax and retired
 |
| Back at Annies, post BBQ combustion. Ooooops |
I begin
to get a few inquiries as to whether I'm still going to bore my public
with the same old, at some future date, so, yes, show on the cyber
road, call to action, man the halyards et al
One last pix of me post lighting the barbecue. Holy frazzled hair, face, eyelashes and eyebrows Batman! Gadzooks! Its all gone
It will grow back
One last pix of me post lighting the barbecue. Holy frazzled hair, face, eyelashes and eyebrows Batman! Gadzooks! Its all gone
It will grow back
Anyone
who has read this far (both of you) may be interested to know that the
pix are chronological, but not...(I think) geolocated as they are shrunk
for the technically challenged amongst us (sorry all you non
technically challenged). The location of each night is below, and you
can get a roughish idea as to where they were taken by the dates and
maybe times of the pix.
 |
| Back at the home ranch. Annie and Garys and I'm glad that Tas is done. The outback is far more atmospheric. Old school I guess |
By and large, Tas is pretty much not recommended. There's not much there, the place is probably even more racist than the mainland and it has nothing to equal any of the grandeur of the mainland. This was in no wayz a fun adventure
I'll be glad to get on our flight and be on our way
End of Act 1
E&OE
BatSmith
Sydney, NSW May 21 2015
The 8 week gig as it unfolded, so far:
Depart Toronto, April 7thArrive Sydney April 8, 9th 10th, 11th, 12th
Albery, NSW April 13th
Tas Ferry April 14th
Stanley, NW Tas - The Nut April 15
Zehan, NW Tas April 16
Bronte Park - Derwent Bridger, Tas April 17
Hamilton, "Victoria Cottage" Tas April 18
Telopea Cottage, Woodbridge, Tas April 19th
Hobart April 20th - 21 22nd
Port Arthur April 23 - 24
Sassafras, Ellendale April 25 - 26
Gumtree Cottage, Ross 27 April
Iluka Coles Bay 28, 29, 30 Apr
Homelea Cottage, St Helens 1 May
Pioreti Bridport 2 May
Adina Place Launceston 3 and 4 May
Port Sorell 5 May
Spirit of Taz 6 May
Nepean spa, Mornington Peninsula, Vic 7 - 12 May
Phillip Island Vic 13 May
Sale, Vic 14 May
Eden (near) Vic 15 May
Bega, NSW 16 & 17 May
Catherine Field, Sydney 18 - 20th May
From Your Correspondent
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