Monday, 1 April 2013

2013 March 20th - April 1st : Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Thailand, Luang Prabang, Laos πŸ‘

Dateline: April 1st 2013 Luang Prabang, Laos


After 35 hours of travel, this is wonderful
Have no idea what we will do next, so
we leave Malees Monday, probably for Laos. Real Colonel Kurtz country apparently, slow boat down the Mekong
Somehow, life goes on
Love
Us
I know, just typical tourist rubbish, but bet that you are pretty envious huh?

March 19th. (Day 0). To Pearson airport. The flight is scheduled for 23:55. We go wild and upgraded to "Premium Economy" for $Don't Ask! This upgrade left us well rested and happy to discover the limited facilities of Hong Kong airport. We both agree that this is (at least), the way to travel

March 21st. 2013: Day 2. Welcome to my haphazard attempt to set up our pix of South East Asian travel, and hopefully not travails....So, within the limits of my talents and abilities, which I still occasionally swear at, here goes. 
We arrived in Hong Kong about 5:30AM
YYZ to HKG Our very first upgrade,
but only to premium economy
We decided that on a 14 hour flight, we
deserved it, were worth it, or whatever
you need to rationalise it at
We arrive at 05:30 local, but the "international" airport only opens at 07:30. Coffees and croissants have to wait. Our flight is leaving at 17:30. Although it is only 12 hours or so wait, it feels like days and days before we board again. We have had a totally not enjoyable day in Hong Kong airport






Cathay Pacific does a pretty good seat
if you are  not in economy.
Complete with Chinese breakfast
This is congee. Disgusting




Even the Chinese restaurant eventually open up. We are both more than content with the prospects of our new diets over here
Our plane finally arrives, and we, eventually, 
departed to Chiang Mai

Evening approaches  in Hong Kong airport after what feels like a whole vacation later, we are finally off to Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand

I have organised a taxi to transport us from Chiang Mai airport, to the hostel/ home stay/ wonderful hang out about 60Km north of Chiang Mai. It's a songthaew. A big open backed pickup truck. It's cold and uncomfortable, but around 10:30pm, local time, we finally have a bed for a few days

We arrived at Melees "Nature Lovers Paradise"
at around 10PM local time. Absolutely knackered
Maybe 

March 22nd. 2013: Day 3. Chiang Doa. Wow! Melees "Nature Lovers Paradise". We arrive at 22:30 after a 2 hours drive North of Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao. Here is The restaurant. Not the natural paradise of the haze (aka smoke) even at 10:30am

To be honest, it was a perfect place to decompress after 35 hours of travel, and 13 hours time difference (11 actually, but we are now a day ahead here)

Its really quite sad, but needs must I guess. Every place we stay in or go to has masses of beautiful teak wood which is obviously no longer in the forests
Honeymoon Cottage #7

"Honeymoon Cottage #7" Daily high: 35C

March 23rd: Day 4: We rent bikes and head off Chiang Doa - the local town. Here we discover that the Thais idea of coffee is not ours


Chaing Doa caves is a complex of temples
and carvings. Buddha is big here

We have decompressed our jetlag and have
rented bikes
Chaing Doa caves. The whole area is limestone. Massive mountains, and deep caves all over

We bike into the local town and indulge in coffees
Everything is so massively different here
Our new local coffee shop, which ended up being our new local Pad Thai shop. The local cell phone store is around the corner. 1Gb of data for $15. Piss on Rogers
It takes a while to realise that every
home, garden, business etc,
has some for of shrine
As we eventually realised,
these are pretty

downmarket compared to big Wats

The culture is very Buddhist. 
Everyone (mostly) has a shrine or two. These ones are in the garden. New.

Here's a typical northern Thailand street scene. Yep, not much happening here
These pix are smart enough to show when it was taken, where and the various colour saturations etc, but it does not tell you the weather. Bloody hot, about 38C and getting pretty humid. Its still snowing back home

The culture is very Buddhists. Everyone (mostly) has a shrine or two. These ones are in the garden. New.

Nothing wrong with a sacred idol
here and there
There's lots of these - EVERYWHERE! The Buddha plays a very important role in Thai life, and it often shows in the people. The missus appears to be at peace
 
The caves area - yes there are Wats (Temples) everywhere, and various stages of Buddha's thought processes are everywhere too. Can you spot the pollution?

One of the Gods. Seems like a few folks migrated from India and it looks like they brought these dudes with them to scare their grand kids. I mean the God on the right of course
Naga's. A common sight throughout
our trip

This is not a tourist area, which is
great for us
Note disgusting haze

These are all "Naga's" apparently. This is your project: find out what all of this stuff means. I can't be bothered either

Our never to be forgotten first
papaya salad
Our chef prepares a "Papaya Salad". Bloody delicious. We're still not sure what's in it, but definitely no Papaya (as we know it anyway) Ed. Well, actually, yes, mostly papaya
It seems to be cheaper to eat out here than buy stuff. Everyone eats out - its an amazing social event for the community. These cheap restaurants are everywhere.
 
First papaya salad. Always one of the best

Trust me, it tastes much better than it looks, and yes, we are definitely having a good time

I made the mistake (as I eventually discovered) of buying Thai currency from the bank.
BIG mistake! The bank charges 10%, so all prices should be less 10%. Don't buy this at home folks
(Use local ATM's with a non FX card)
Just vegging out (get it?)
until we
are 
cogent again
My reckoning is 1 day where we land
for every 2 hours of time zone

As Melee, our hostess is out for all our stay, we head down to "Chiang Doa Nest2". Some great food, and a super smoothie of sorts
These Thai folks really know how to cook, and cheap too! This meal was about $20 for a full 4 course super stuff out nosh. Compared to the cave food, which was about $3

Our Mahout for about an hour

It was indeed pretty touristy, but as I
occasionally say
March 24th: Day 5: Tourist Time! Now we are on an Elephant, heading down into the "jungle"
Our Mahout. We sit on a bench in a kinda saddle basket

HEY! we are tourists

I can guarantee that it's better than Florida
Your mileage may vary

I'll tell ya, this is a lot more comfortable than riding an African Elephant!
Well, the elephants are at least still alive. As their natural environment diminishes, and logging is automated or banned, their only hope is to become a tourist attraction. We played our part in preserving the species. At the missus insistence, we buy a bunch of bananas, and a fag for our driver

Now the bullock cart: even the tourists want to get into the action
They all seem to have fun, but don't forget to tip everyone!

It's a bit like "Wagon Train" with all the carts
Pastoral scene anyone?
In the spirit of Constable, brought to you by bus loads of tourists without the little boy with his sheep. Note dreadful haze. Its caused by burning last years leftovers from harvests before the rains arrive
Well, this is exactly what we have come for


Grand Central. All change for the Elephant show!
After a bullock cart ride, it's time for, what else
I guess this is the main event. 
Elephants performing

Caption
Who could resist a sweet talker like this one? No, I refused to pay for it by giving this guy a rolled up bank note, I know, heartless tourist looking for cheap lines

Cute stuff
An African elephant would probably not leave it at that
This is what they used to do, but seems like
they've run out of forests, so lets just practice for a bit

I eventually realised that they do not get paid
but live on the tips tourists give them
I still feel total guilt about the little I gave them
I still regret not tipping these folks more

After lunch, we do the tourist bit and float down a river, Its hot (did I mention that)

Well, we were sorta enjoying the trip, but it did go on for quite a times - more to come
Quite captivating in a British Raj kind of way

Evening smog and smoke herald the
end to a perfect days being a tourist
Well, you get some idea of the tourist business for elephant treks, and this is very low season here
These guys are not as unpredictable as their African cousins, so we feel quite at ease here


This is a Thai bus station. It's immaculate! 

March 25th: Day 6. We consider ourselves de jet lagged, and travellers in the true sense of the word again........ 

Complete with its own shrine and everything totally clean (toilets cost $0.15). We are heading of to Chiang Rai, but a fairly unconventional route (Hah! read on!) As ever on the road, we me a Belgian couple at Melee's who told us about a fun trip if we head North. No problemo.

Your mind on drugs on a local bus
Heading to Mai Ai with our fellow guests
for the dragon boat to Chiang Rai



















Sometimes I feel that suitcases are not the
best option on some of our travels

 

Our next trip in a "long tail" boat at Tha Ton.
Chiang Rai, 4 hours straight ahead

We are off, following the boss a few seconds ahead. Probable notching up 15 knots here
Not my idea of "life", but then, what is?. 



This "captain" must be a novice as he was following another guy, but we still got stuck on a sandbar and had to get out and push ourselves off. Mind you, I prefered to do it here than in the Zambezi where we had to watch out for crocs and hippos....

This trip is working out to be even better than I'd hoped



View from a Tuk Tuk. 
The wife's knees are totally shot














They are fun. And smelly, and loud, and would never be certified for any kind of passenger transport most places. BUT! Very cheap
Chiang Rai. I loved it here

On our way (in the Tuk Tuk) to Wat Phra Keuw, passing the day market. due to the excessive heat during the day, you get day markets (about 5:00AM to 10:00AM ish) and Night markets, typically from 6:00PM till late, maybe 23:00, usually different places and stuff. Fruit & veg in the morning, food and cheap Chinese rip offs at night, plus various tourist stuff depending on the location

Wat Phra Keuw

March 26th: Day 7, Chiang Rai, sorta downtown, but mainly tourist central. 
Once you are off the boat
I guess that the amount of money put into Wat's
is similar to what used to go to Catholic churches. Like, lots

and the wind stops, the humidity really kicks in





Wat a lot U got a lot of Wat


Probably Wat Phra Sing, Chiang Rai
It's been too long since we were here, but as this 
was our first Wat, it sounded good at the time
Another god like structure. 
Note beer belly on said God, and friend

They are pretty devout in Thailand
All generations take it as a given

This Buddha thing seems to have a lot going for it. Even the kids don't seem to object. Apparently, the Jade used in this dude, is specially imported from, yes, Canada

It really is all encompassing, but it certainly 
appears to hold the fabric of society together
 
Another Wat, Wat Phra Sing
There's a thriving business in candles, flowers and incenses in all these temples. No, we did not need to pray for anything, so we did not indulge










Some of the local myths and
legends adorn the walls of this one

No expense is spared here. It's a bit like Catholic churches during the reformation.
Did somebody say there's a virgin around here?

Definitely in the style of Rousseau.

Looks like Shiva sorting out a bunch of illegals
I guess no one wants immigrants
















 Noble beast (the ones with the gnashing teeth), et al

I believe these are direction to your next, better life
Which way to a coffee shop?
Ah! here's one. Great iced coffee, and snacks here
Relaxing at Wat Kliang Wiang
Note toes (not the Buddhas)

Tourists are certainly catered for here.
Great iced coffees

Bring it on dude!


I was just so amazed that this hole in the wall cafe
was in fact a really great place to eat

Ah yes, of no particular interest except this is literally less than a little shack, 100 metres from our hotel (Baan Malai - highly recommended at about $25.00/ night), and the food, quite edible, with no after effects at all, was about $1.50, in fact the beer cost more, about $2.00. Did I mention it was hot here?

Chiang Rai's night life.
In the central square, all food, beer and entertainment
 
The Night Market, and a huge open air square where everyone seems to come to eat

I don't recognise a lot of this stuff
About 100 metres of store fronts on two sides
Massive amount of stall, nothing I'd recognise but lots of people had it.
Turned out to be a soup mix and made it into a soup on their tables with your own heater
Ilge has taken to bed, so I'm Canada's representative.
It's about 9PM, so I'm able to chat and send pix to my mate Andrei working at one of my clients
Definitely cruel and unusual punishment

We have a great time in Chaing Rai, and, just like before, we have  recommendation for the river boat from Chiang Kong to Luang Probang
Just to say "we're heading down the Mekong to Luang Probang" made it all worth it
Our view from Namkhong Riverside Hotel

Eating out at the local tourist hot spot in Chiang Khon 
March 27th; Day 8. OK, we bussed out of Chiang Rai as, yes again, two folks we me at the hotel suggested the "slow boat" down the Mekong. We catch a local bus, back door hanging off etc etc, which amazingly, leaves

EXACTLY on time, to Chiang Khong on the Lao border. 

We arrive at this Riverside Hotel, adequate food, and a REALLY hard bed. Which as we found out in Laos, we needed to get used to. Laos over there though the haze

We did get this great view though, and a balcony, including all you can breath pollution


The waiters were very attentive, but the chef 
obviously had the night off 
Here, on the Laotian border, (4 of us Europeans, no one else), expensive, good, but a hole in the wall would have been better. Oh well







Breakfast before our ferry over to Laos

March 28th; Day 9. Breakfast before our leap into the unknown over the haze and smog infested river. Laos begins from the next shot...

Departure to the other side of the Mekong
LAOS

March 28th: Day 9. This is your captain speaking. Please adjust your seats to the upright position, put 
your trays back, and stow all loose baggage in the compartments overhead, or underneath, or maybe on top of the guy sitting in front of you, or by the pig in the back

Immigration. Chaos

Note fees, especially Canadian ones

Yes, it is a scrum - I take the cheap route and opt to do immigration myself.. BAD idea!

Canadians pay the very most, more than any other nationality. Thanks Steve (FYI: Harper)

Our potential home for the 2 day trip


Dragon boats. Two days of transport to Luang Prabang
We'll keep the red flag flying here. 

Un believable. The tour guide was a racist cadre pig. A total throwback to the revolutionary 60's

After being harangued for about an hour, we 
were allowed on board to the seat
number we had been given

Finally, after an hours speech, and no useful information, the happy band is seated, and we are on our way
As soon as we cast off, and Cadre
Jerk is gone
We all settle where ewe want to

Relaxing, boring, ahah! just you wait and see.,...


And start to actually enjoy the trip
Note obvious signs of heat, like large bottle of beer
If I look hot, there's a good reason. Its about 40 degrees with the humidity. I bought this, just before it happened

About 2 hours out, the (new?) skipper ran straight
into a solid lump of rock at about 15+ knots
(the current must have been 8 - 10)


Yes, believe it or not, we ran straight into a bloody great rock. It was actually the left bank. I saw it coming. Most didn't.
Without power, the boat then got caught by the current (maybe 8 - 10 knots)  and with the bows still seemingly stuck near the rock, drifted so the middle of the boat became lodged on an island in the middle of the river.
The boat, now across most of the actual river stream appeared equally balanced, and just remained stuck pretty much amidships

Please note how everyone has been provided with a lifejacket.

Several people were hurt. None badly though.
Amazingly, only one crew was hurt. Some blood
If there had been another boat doing 15 knots behind us
there would have been many dead

I kept my beer, and abandon ship with everyone else, onto this island in the middle of the river. We hit a rock on the left bank with the prow (pix later), 

Rock over to the right, island beneath. About 100 of us in various states of shock, bruised, bleeding and sucking their beers me and another guy). Check out the current from under their boat. The other half is off to the left.
I honestly thought it might crack in two

Eventually, after maybe 20 - 30 minute the other boat has 
powered us off of the rock, and the crew
has the motor running again
We all re embark

You really needed sandals to walk on this stuff, very sharp limestone I think. Funnily enough, we were still within Thai cell coverage, so I was relaying this via gchat to her as it was happening: she had gone to bed...

Finally, I  assume the real captain got it together, and came back to pick us all up. 
Shaken, but not stirred. We are again back in a boat about 100 metres long, with a crew proven to be incompetent. Hmmm.

Here's my running commentary on our Dragon Boat mishap with a large piece of riverbank, live:

Still have cell coverage, so here's a running commentary.
Cruising down the Mekong in northern Laos heading from Chiang Kuong to
Luang Prabang with the statuary beer in my hand. Its about 39 in the
shade, and totally polluted with visibility through the haze at no
more than 1 kilometre (yes really!)
Most people are beginning to snooze in the heat. Its 7 hours till we
stop for the night, then another days travel
Apparently there are no working roads in northern Laos, so we either
river or fly or both. We will fly to Vientiane
Thailand was fantastic. We'll be heading back via Vientiane in a week or 2
Maybe Burma, definitely Cambodia and Vietnam and Hong Kong before we
head home to "plan" our next trip(s)
Kayla arrives Ho Chi Minh May 3rd, and we do Vietnam together for 3 weeks ish.
Somehow we struggle and get by.
Hah! Just as I was going to send, we hit, as in totally smashed into,
a rock and had to abandon the boat when it drifted onto a rocky island
(see below), for half an hour (once again, yes! really). Hardly any
panic as we abandoned ship.
A few bruises and some blood (but not mine, some bruises for the
missus), but the crew managed to get the boat off the rock we got
stuck on, eventually, maybe 15 minutes later and we headed off again,
complete with a few frightened grannies, and as it turned out, some
even more impressionable travellers (yes, really!)
Who said adventure is dead?
Ok, looks like this is now almost a blog as we are now in said Luang
Prabang, once again as monotony would have it, with a beer in my hand

From there on, whenever the engine note strayed from its usual hum, everyone involuntarily twitched and looked to the front to prepare for evasive action again
We stop at a mud bank while the captain seeks
advice from Starfleet command.

Not really bent out of shape prow. Surprising as that's a lot of inertia to suddenly stop
That's a lot of bruises!

Caption

Apparently, only a few months ago, you needed to bring a pillow for the wooden benches. Now, apparently, we have the luxury cruise
The current is significantly less here
We prepare for an evening searching 
for a place to stay
I  dread to think what would have happened if we had been delayed much more. Pak Beng about 30 minutes before dusk.
Pretty in a hazy, hot, humid sweaty booze soaked porter kind of way
The locals treat tourists on these boats as their gravy train. I had to physically fight with a drunk to keep our suitcase. We also got totally ripped off for morning transport 


March 29th, Day 10. After working out that Ilge was dangerously dehydrated (she hadn't drunk much all day on board, probably because the on board washroom was a ole in the floor (these things happen). Luckily, I guessed that here headache and lethargy was a severe need of water, and provided the magic potion for life. A few more hours and her organs would have started complaining.
Then, a relatively peaceful night in Pak Beng, getting to the boat is quite a trek

I never did work out what these were
I assume something the locals eat

We have changed boats (hence, also crew)
It's a lot less exciting in the lower stretches

About 10 Germans, 4 Dutch, a few Icelanders, us Canadians, 4 - 5 Brits, couple US that we met and spoke to. As crazy as it sounds, these guys were all so much into video games that they had competitions to spot the various theme tunes to their favourite games by whistling. But, from there, they exchanged strategies, what levels they have got on various games, and the guy on the right then got his own game tablet out and showed everyone the latest hot game....... 
A stop on route, maybe to pick up a whole pile of trash?
Apparently not.
Sigh. It really is very depressing, at least for me. 
Had a long discussion with one of the US guys. A bit more open to the world, but they still have some ways to go....

We have a new crew for day 2. We are all still a bit leery about these things. 11:30 and shrouded in haze smoke and soot

Well, this is the local bus after all, so
everything is fair game


Don't want your crap, so off it all comes off of the roof
This is the engine. If this fails, you are fucked! 
Note all the safety grills and protective barriers all around it

On board snacks and drinks
Have no idea where I got cash from
Shades of Africa overlanding, but WAIT! Real Tuna, I had to settle for pilchards when I backpacked. Such luxury. Add to this, some incredible whole wheat bread from a real bakery in Thailand. Super scrummy. I never had it this good, but I was a Brit then.





Moto central? Just passing by

Groan! More soot than you can shake a hard boiled egg at



We arrive at Luang Prabang past sunset. I have not researched, let alone booked any place 
I luck out just wandering around local hotels.
This one was a great place to observe the world from

March 30th, Day 11. Luang Prabang. We hang out in a ground floor room at the Villa Champa. As you can see, from out garden, we get a grand central view of the monks passing through town picking up food from the population. I call it the Alms Race.....
We did not even know it was here, just looked out of our window

This is directly in front of our hotel room
out in our garden

There were probably about 70, possibly, all from one Wat, 



Our local cafe.
Our hotel, just up to the right
I have chosen the "no breakfast" option, so we are over the road for our first Lao grub. 
Note huge chunks of teak everywhere

We are on the begging highway.
Every day, first thing
These guys have been up chanting since around 4:30




This is the end of the road, as it were for food handouts to 
the monks who officially at least, can have no money.

  
We are located at the end of the donating line. 



Here are all the basket cases that need food from the monks,
theoretically, to survive. A reverse charity I guess. 

Some are probably violating their visa restrictions

Back on the local Wat trail: Wat Xieng Thong







Local farmlands below, and local and countrywide smog

It's about 34 and very humid.
On the bright side, it's fantastic here
Most of the restaurants here are on the river bank
The Mekong

Well, after Thailand, the money, glitz and sheer pride in their temples, this is a bit less than slick. It looks like the Lao of the Revolution pretty much destroyed most religious atifacts and sent the population off to discover Marks & Lenin. Without much success I may add. There is a move to improve these aging tired relics (as in an entry fee for all such buildings),  but you can't hide the decades of degradation, and I assume, official neglect. Tired buildings, grey, weather stained concrete, cheap artifacts, pretty much all from the 60's onward, although there does not appear to be much ancient stuff around, what is is a sad whisper of days long past.

Apparently, this was part of the royal treasures until
come the revolution etc

Wat Xiengthong
Some of the previous owners
paraphanalia I guess. Naga's
Nagas, present teeth etc. Some old royal carriage
You have a younger sister at home?

That way to Naga Naga land?
Part of Luang Prabang where this monastery is located,
is on an isthmus of the
Mekong and the Nam Khan tributary 




Assume pose of the Lanaa Buddha?
Not quite. Hokee Kokee Buddha?


There were very few tourists here.
No idea why...

This is the Monks daily route. Supplicants, (for a prayer?)
are lined up to supply daily victuals to the robed throng





Oh God! Bliss is thy name oh Coconut.
About $1.00, view free. Bloody hot, soot no extra charge

The French were the colonial masters here
for a huge amount of time
Hence, a Boulangerie in town. Le Benetton cafe
Margarine croissants. Ugh!


Bennetons, Luang Prabang. Much heralded by Lonely Planet, therefore full of westerners looking for the perfect Lao Latte (it wasn't, I thought it was one of the worst of the trip). Note Tuk Tuks. You are into tourist country here


Haw Pha Bang
Go figure
A novice monk with iPhone
No, I saw the Buddha App. It's here
somewhere
Of course, all these gifts to various deities
etc, do tend to feed the local rat population
Its the most humid part of the day, wifee retires to the relaxation of air con, I head back to the Royal Palace that has another Wat. Earlier, we have done the Royal Palace. (No photos allowed) Well, lets not gloss over it. At least here in the palace, you get some idea of the chaos that went on during the revolutionary years. My favourite "exhibit" in the palace was a Grundig Stereo circa 1958, entitle, "From Germany". A pile of equally sad exhibits, including the "Royal Car Collection" which was an old Ford Edsel (what else would they do with it?),  a 40 year old Citroen and a tiny motorboat, and a 78 RPM gramophone player that included "some records in Lao" Hmmm. Very Impressive.

Totally tourist street scene. Mad dog & Englishmen time of day, yes, about 38C

I guess that even way back then,
Girls just wanted to have fun
Offerings include pop, peanuts, flowers, incense is always in fashion

Warning! More Wats ahead


The Royal Palace, Wat old boy?

Totally tourist street scene. Mad dog & Englishmen time of day, yes, about 38C
Earlier this day, I saw two Kiwi's on a motor bike,
putting on all their leathers
It was over 36 degrees. No wonder I'm sweating

The "Royal Palace"
More like a down and out hostel

Papaya salad, a "real" Lao one, un bearably hot, Kayla will love it. Full of red chilli pepper seeds. I just coped. About $1.50 - this is a tourist city after all
Looks like this salad was a two coconut heat alert






Back of the Royal Palace. More like how the Lao have to live. Note ubiquitous moped. Typically 2 stroke which means it is incredibly polluting. Most families have one. Personally, I think of it as a kind of contraceptive, if you can't get all your family onto one, don't have any more kids



Everyone grabs some relief after sunset
At night, the action begins






Luang Prabang night market. At least it cools down a bit
As it's a tourist place, its full (almost a kilometer) of tourist stuff. Some quite nice

March 31st, Day 12: Luang Prabang pre monks on the street. It's quite a tourist trap now, dozens of Tuk Tuk's, and a whole multitude of open vans, as here on the right for the tour busses. This is at 06:15


Back at the pad. I stopped in at the Scandinavian bakery for 2 chocolate croissants. Got back, just as the show was winding up
Yep. These tourists are looking for a hand out from the monks. Actually, quite accepted as an act of charity, but tourists? Well, really



Phousi Hill. Another sacred site
More sacred soot
Get the idea? Me too. We slept through the next mornings parade

At the top of the hill, this is the view of the airport. It's only a kilometer away,
but I can't see it

It's definitely too life threatening to carry on breathing here.
At 7:30AM, it's 33C

After the show, I decide to tackle Phu Si, the local hillock overlooking the Royal Palace, with of course, a Wat at the top. At 07:15, this is the view. My eyes actually stung from the smog up here. The airport is just 3 Km away, and you can only see this end of the runway. That's it! lets go, this really is awful. Viewing this again, I can still smell and feel the soot in my eyes and nose. Ugh!
There's 2 or 3 Buddha's
for every day of the year

Doorway with view to the Lao quarter, and local smog, courtesy farmers from as far away as Burma

It seems to be kept functional. All for $0.30 entrance fee (for tourists)

Very pretty in the (hazy) morning light
3, 4, 5 or more. Note morning sun light. This, Just for the record folks
 
Hey guys. Listen up and get with the enlightenment
AND, it's all cheap concrete with gold paint, some of it already chipping and falling apart (wow, my eyes are watering up as I remember it)
I had one of these.
I think it was a Tuesday
Which one's the big dude?

Thats Private Buddha to you. I know, they start to blend together huh?
Sorry, I'm not going to wait two more days mate. I've decided to leave tomorrow
This is how the masses live
And their chickens


More of how the Lao live. There's some chickens in there. Eggs certainly appear to be everywhere here

There were about 3 of our favourite
restaurants along the river
I've had complaints about the missus looking a little unsure as to whether she wants to be here (in Laos, with me, in the heat?) Hence the teeth to help banish such rumours. Yes, the drink: Lemon mint smoothie. Try it. Amazingly refreshing.
I've booked a flight to Vientiane
It's about 40 minutes. 14 hours on a bus


Wat Souvanapoumra (or some such). As a student of Lao history, this is named after the last crowned prince. Hence, its cheap to get into, and even more run down than the other sorry Wats

No doubt acid rain and the local smog (you can imagine how much) has a lot to do with these blackened pillars



The Nam Khan which joins the Mekong just around the next bend

It was a bit stinky down here, 
but pretty extensive

April 1st, Day 13: Here we go, the Day Market. Be prepared for some fun stuff here

It certainly smelt even better than one of my stir fries





I'm not sure how long this stuff lasts in these 
temperatures. Looks like vegetarian tonight
If you can still see through your tear streaming
burning eyes, this is a great view

Our favourite cafe in Luang Prabang, pix masquarding as art
We are having a sweepstake (hah!). 
Whoever counts the correct number of flies in the pix, 
gets a steak dinner for 2


Our last day in Luang Prabang
Our favourite past time. OK, my second favourite past time. These papaya are as good as the ones we used to have in Nairobi.

Lots of limes of course

And we are off to Vientiane





Ok, looks like this is now almost a blog as we are now in said Luang Prabang, once again as monotony would have it, with a beer in my hand
My (totally false) apologies for sending full size pix. I cant find an app to resize them. Deal with it.
Ho hum
Are you bored yet?
Respondees will receive even more
Happy working stiff and / or retirement days to all
Jim et all
PS, these pix have full GPS details inside them. Use a good browser and you can Google earth where we are / were
Ciao

From Your Correspondent

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