Wednesday, July 9th. 2003 Kruger Park Lodge, Hazyview, South Africa
Elevation 220m
Route: Kaapscehoop, Mpumalanga - Shipandani Hide, Kruger Park, South Africa
Ahhhhh,
What a life we lead here.
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We lucked into a house on the Crocodile River, just south of Kruger Park
Real Africa inasmuch as you may get eaten if you go out at night |
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| Just like home, |
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| except with lions and Hyenas in the back yard |
This is a bit of a re run from 3 years ago when we lucked into this place the first time. However, long
sunny days on the lawn, reading the latest Harry Potter (I'm not ashamed of that!), and catching up with
my old Economists. Idling away a few hours trying to get some of our pix across the various oceans, a
few beers in the sun - water too damn cold to get into. THIS is real R&R.
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Heading North.
We arrived in Kruger Park |
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Scanning the horizon
as we head up the escarpment |
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Like a true been there done that tourist
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After our riding week end, it was down to Nelspruit (much warmer) on Monday morning for our
Mozambique visas. Apparently, this is the fastest and cheapest place in the world for this. Scooted
around taking our photos (great to have a Polaroid camera for this), farted with the internet, caught up
and also transferred some cash via the net, around our accounts plus our travelling Visa card.
(TRAVELLING TIP: do NOT use your bank card - VERY expensive! Simply dump cash into a credit
card and draw against that - do not use it for purchases). Then, went to the bank and withdrew it - love
this control thing! However, as we had farted about for an extra 30 minutes, we missed the embassy
Visa times, and ended up in White River for the night. Finally got our visas organised in 3 hours on
Tuesday, and lucked into a house on the Crocodile River, just south of Kruger Park. We are told not to
go out at night due to the lions roaming around the place!
Finally we find Africa again. Lions roaring and Hippos grunting through the night. Another perfectly
starry sky. Aiden is up pre dawn to see a hyena on the front lawn. There are mozzies here, it has been a
wet summer so far (very unusual). I decide to start our malaria tabs, Ilge decides not to. The kids take
theirs too.
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Caught in the unexpected (by us) school holidays,
the park was totally packed
Camping out very early on.
Don't make a habit of this |
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Up for dawn game drives
- this is before the suns up.
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Animals, animals and more animals.
We generally pig out on wild stuff.
And of course, the usual fast food dispensary
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Took a walking safari (2 hours in the real bush)
and tracked lions and White Rhino.
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OK, this is the real thing,
except we didn't see any real things
Two rangers as guides, each with a rifle that
looked like it would adequately stop an elephant
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Even as the sun set and everything
should be out looking for dinner |
We arrived in Kruger Park, for 3 days as a quick refresher with real mother nature in tooth, fang and
claw. The first day and we see (usually through binoculars), 4 of the "big" 5: Elephants, Rhinos, Lions
and Cape Buffalo. Leopards are much harder to spot. More, gimme more!
The park was totally packed. Got our timing screwed up this time as we headed off into Kruger right in
the middle of school holidays (winter hols here right now).
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Not so much tame, as looking for a hand out.
Near Skukuza |
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I only bother with pix of raptors.
The rest, who needs 'em? |
This would not have been too bad if the SA
Parks had not totally revamped their entrance costs and criteria: instead of $20.00 per day for everyone,
now it's $60.00 per day for us foreigners, and free for residents. Ergo, we camp (even then, only just) in
the dust. Up for dawn game drives - this is before the suns up.
Animals, animals and more animals. We generally pig out on wild stuff.
I sense that the standards are now way down from last time - if I'm not mistaken, the food and the
service are nothing like what the could or should be. Ask for something or for help, and the
overwhelming sensation I get is "I don't have to help you, my jobs secure, my cousin is the Chief
Wardens golfing partner", well you get the idea, no one seems to give a shit. The TV's at the lodges, are
now screening infomercials on "Sexual Performance Enhancement" creams for gods sake! This stinks.
Took a walking safari (2 hours in the real bush) and tracked lions and White Rhino. We only saw
warthogs, but a good intro for everyone for Mana Pools, which is one of our major reasons for going.
We kept up a pretty brisk pace, and the guides do not piss about. Two of them, each with a rifle that
looked like it would adequately stop an elephant. We all survived, and live on the ubiquitous meat pie
that night.
Friday evening and we head off just down the road to our home for the week: Kruger Park Lodge.
Everything comes out of the van, and the top box. It's a lot!
This time share has all the modern inconveniences I've come to expect in an African style time shares: 9
hole golf course, 2 swimming pools, 4 tennis courts, massive inground hippo & crock pool (and hide),
free 24Hr internet service, a fantastic house with 3 bedrooms, 3 king size beds with en suite bathrooms,
serviced daily of course (they even wash the barbeque pit) , hot and cold running vervets and extensive
lawns and probably most important, a 10 foot electrified security fence and 24 hour on site security
guards. Well, what else would keep you safe in South Africa? There is also a TV and phone, but
nothing's perfect!
At the gate, we notice the security folk all have handguns. Sign of the times or what?
This is our second time here, so we are not as easily bowled over with the 20 hippo idling away in the
pool, but simply comparing this to last time is a mugs game to ambivalence.
We play. Time drifts past, but it does pass.
I notice that Afrikaans if far more the local household language than before. Very little English.
Everyone in stores etc talk first in Afrikaans, then English. Something has changed here.
Today, and it's down to the local police station to get them to certify our various documents. My
research via Lonely Planet tells me that we should not give original documents to the Mozambican
police: if you do, they will demand anything from $50 - $500 (yes US, not Zim$), for their return.
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Back at central base. Our restaurant at Kruger Park Lodge, Hazyview
We don't get as spectacular a place as last time
Typically, hippos tramp across these lawns every night |
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But some things never seem to change
Well, what else would keep you safe in
South Africa? Shields Up! |
So,
you take certified copies, and give them those. If they give you a hard time, you ask for their
commanding officer (in fluent Portuguese of course) and smile and wait until they give up. Seems that
these folk are the real bandits. The cops have no problem with certifying everything I ask them to, in
fact it seems to be all they do here. I see 4 "inspectors", and 1 "constable" who does all the stamping
and signing. |
Yeah yeah! But yes, this is real enough. So are the roaming Hippo's
You don't get your money back just because you are eaten |
Evening and it's a big communal Braii down by the Sabi River (runs through the grounds), once again
to brilliant night skies. Even though this is 100% "Lowvelt", it still gets bloody cold: 5C at night, so
any camping in the next few weeks will be marginal at best. We hope the schools go back soon, then we
will be pretty set for accommodation.
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We play. Aiden, Kayla and Ilge have a round of golf.
Time drifts past, but it does pass |
We had three more day at Hazyview
.
I used the free internet almost exclusively to get all my pix and
several journal updates out. Yes, I know I had been remiss in the remit
of these, but hey, what the hell, I'm on vacation, you folks probably do
not even want to hear about what we are passing our time at anyway.
Fear not, we are making use of our time here, and will have lots of
exciting adventures to bore you with, whether you like it or not, upon
our return. |
| The kids catching up on their homework |
While
still at Hazyview timeshare, Ilge wanted to do a bit of local culture
(apart from braii's) and not stopping on highways, so we booked into at a
local "Shangaana" village, where we met the medicine man (Sangoma), and the village chief (his
brother actually). We had a great evenings entertainment: lots of
dancing and singing. I walk into a chicken in a basket at eye level (no
light here except wood fires). There is a lot of traditional greetings
and culture; singing and dancing which also included one of my all time
favourite African dance: the Boot Dance" have not seen it for nigh on 25
years, and it was a real nostalgic trip back in time for me.  |
Communal "Bring & Braii"
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Usual pile of whites here,
but fun anyway
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Cultural
activists would point out that this is really a non traditional dance as
it was created by the mine workers who only had their new mining boots
to dance in, and had to make do with whatever they could, but I love it
either way. We also had a fantastic traditional meal.
Beef stew, spinach with peanuts (careful with those allergies folks),
squash, salad, all in a guess what, traditional African hut. Incredible
stuff. |
Yeah, I know. Tourist crap or what?
Great food though, and lots of it
Plus, a "cultural experience" of dance et al |
Aiden
has met some (other?) "cool" types at the timeshare, so he stays to
improve his pool skills - we typically do not see him till morning these
days. Glad he has found some mates here.The week passes by with a loose routine of shopping, avoiding various animals
and Hippo watching at the hide, Aiden, Kayla and Ilge have a round of
golf.
We notice that all the "activities" advertised at the lodge, never
actually happen. What the hell? Beer in the shade, reading our books,
tennis - the kids love the trampolines here, pool, bridge with the kids
(they're hooked), more internetting (can't seem to get it out of my
system), checking on our next destination. Relaxing. There will be more
nights in the dirt ahead of us, so this is exactly what we need. |
"Shangaana" village, where we met the
medicine man (Sangoma), who threw his bones |
There
is no interaction here with any of the Africans. We buy stuff on the
roadside occasionally, but no one speaks English. Our maid in the lodge,
has limited language skill we can use, so we are again restricted to
other guests here. Most people now feel guardedly optimistic about SA
now. I warn them that as soon as they get the crime rate sorted out, the place will be invaded by European and North American soon to be
retirees buying up their desperately cheap property for retirement
homes. Now there's an idea!
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We had a fantastic traditional meal. Here's the kitchen
Beef stew, spinach with peanuts
The cooks did a great job
Apparently, supposedly just like a normal tribal meal |
Ah, but our time is running out, this is our 6th day here, only a few more, and we are cast out onto the road again. Time to pack and re assemble. We think of our next stops, I contact a buddy in Zim re fuel and various other bits concerning Mozambique. He tells me it will be a "demanding trip". And this is from a guy who lives in Zim! Well, if it's only fuel we have to worry about, I can handle that. Time will tell.  |
| Lots of cow parts went into these pots |
We
have brunch one day - totally pig out (I will be wobbling around on the
squash court when I get back, another year of overweight ahead),
however, brunch here includes unlimited Mimosa's - a really professional
touch I think. On the last night, we wanted to eat at the restaurant,
but its "Mongolian" cuisine..... we pass and have a braii. Aiden spends a
long night out with his new buddies.
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| No takers for these sub par tourist trinkets today |
Eventually, on the 11th, we are off to our next stop. Thankfully, the guys Aiden has made friends with are from Durban, and we manage to off load a whole bagful of books and misc crap so we can collect it in September, now maybe I can get everything into the van without swearing.
Odometer: 307600 Distance Travelled: 483Km Trip Distance: 483Km Total Trip 3353 Km
July 16th. 2003 Shipandani Hide, Kruger Park, South Africa. Elevation 270m
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Dawn at out hideaway hide, Shipadani Hide, deep in the bush. Didn't actually see anything
But lots of screaming outside our locked doors |
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The Pinnacle,
Part of a huge gash in the
South African landscape |
The sun sets at 5:30 these days. So, we have to get moving as the only light is what you bring with you. We are at a hide, deep in Kruger Park. There are only 2 of these in the park - another new innovation, but we are used to them from Zim parks.
The last visitors to this place need to get back for the 6:00PM curfew at the lodges. We take out huge quantities of bedding, lights and cutlery and set up for the night in our own domain in the bush.
I think of the folks back home, it's a bit before lunch there and phone a friend so she can listen to the sounds of Africa going to bed. The line is perfect, and so is this setting.
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The Highvelt again, there are lots of beautiful
valleys and precipitous drops
I never made it here when I lived in SA
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We have been in Kruger for 3 days now, and hope for maybe 2 more before we test our mettle with the Zim border. We still have little or no idea of the current situation there. This however is quite a familiar situation.
Our
next overnight stop is Graskop, only about 45Km up the road (literally
up the road as it's back up into the Highvelt again). By 10:30 we are
having breakfast, pancakes, bacon and coffee or milkshakes in the high
street.  |
God's Window
It's pretty spectacular if the sun is out |
It is still school holidays, so accommodation appears to be a
bit difficult, however, for R420 (about $CAN75, we find a B&B for us
in town, and we head off to explore this beautiful area. As it's on the
Highvelt again, there are lots of beautiful valleys and precipitous drops
into seemingly bottomless gorges. Millions of years of weathering have
moulded the entire area into a huge vista that goes on for 150Km north
and south of here.
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Complete with it's own rain forest
From here you can see,
hmmm, flowers |
There is a local loop: The Pinnacle
, Gods Window
, complete with it's own rain forest,
WonderView
and the Berlin Falls
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| Wonder View at the Berlin Falls. |
Aiden passes out probably due to his late night, so we leave him at the hotel, and head over to Pilgrims Rest
. It's up and over a mountain pass
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Lots of black smoke from the cruiser and 25 - 40 Km per hour all the
way up and down. It's an old town - early Gold Rush but pretty much a
tourist place now. Postcards and back to base.
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Lots of Ye Olde Villages around here
Pilgrims Rest tourist trap |
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It's up and over a mountain pass to get back
Lots of black smoke from the cruiser |
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Saturday, and the weather is CRAP!
Graskop on a bad day.
Huge amounts of food though. I got ill with it |
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Sudwalla caves Apparently, yahoos come in and rip bits off |
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The caves are interesting enough,
and certainly are not susceptible
to inclement weather,
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Saturday, and the weather is CRAP
!
Now what? we are supposed to do a hike at Blyde River Canyon, but with
rain and mist it would be worse than useless. We meet an ex Brit who
thinks that the Sudwala caves are worth a view. "40 minutes" he tells
us.  |
On the way, we stop for a few views of
Blyde River Canyon,
without enthusiastic hikers today |
Well, yes, in his Mercedes perhaps it was, but 65Km in a fully
loaded Land Cruiser, up and down mountains, takes up the better part of 2
hours. The caves are interesting, and certainly are not susceptible to inclement weather, as we are given the cave tour.
However, now its nearly 2:00PM, and we have not only the "hour and a
half" to our next hotel, but also this same distance back where we came
from. About 5 hours. The weather is still crap, and we leave Graskop for
Phalabora at 3:00.
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The weather maintains its miserable status
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Somehow this "One and half hours" turns into nearly
three. I hate travelling at night.
On the way, we stop for a few views
of Blyde River Canyon. It is certainly spectacular
. Fantastic vertical drops and mountains. The weather maintains its miserable status, so we just have a couple of photo stops. The
great South African Pie sees us through yet again. We arrive more than
an hour after dark, and once again, I'm glad to find the place and sink
into my statutory beers while contemplating dinner being prepared by the
rest of the family. HEY, after this trek, I deserve some pampering!. |
It is certainly spectacular.
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I
have been here before back in 1976, but only for about 2 hours. Maybe
its because we are staying in a hotel this time, but it looks a lot
better than I remember it.
Back
into Kruger on the Monday, and we hope that we can get accommodation in
a bungalow, rather than schlepping back in a tent again. There are
still a pile of people getting in - we have to queue to pay.
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| Letaba Rest camp with great views. |
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The day is spent playing cards, reading, eating pies
(Buffalo, Impala or Steak & Kidney?) |
The
drive to Letaba is totally uneventful, hardly anything around here,
maybe it's the time of day? Early morning & dusk are optimum times
for viewing. The vegetation is still green here too, too much rain. This
means that unless the game is on or by the road, we have no chance. So
boring drives will be the norm here.
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| That's what we did, plus game views of course |
Thankfully,
it's not as crowded as a few weeks ago, and we get a family cottage
that is a no show. The evening game drive is worse (terrible guide) than
any we have ever had. Last time we were here, there was a driver/
commentator guide, and a scout. Now we appear to have a driver + guide +
scout as one person - cut backs I assume, - the passengers now are the
spotters, and we are not very good at it. We make use of the restaurant
as everything else is locked up. It's not bad, a bit pricey, but
certainly far more recognisable as food than the lodges south of here. |
Dawn finds us shivering and blue with the cold -
regular ski lift stuff. We see the usual stuff for Kruger |
Another
frigid game drive at 5:30 Tuesday morning- it's bloody cold - about 5
degrees, and blankets are a necessity in the open viewing truck. Dawn
finds us shivering and blue with the cold - regular ski lift stuff. We
see the usual stuff
for Kruger - see, we are already blase about this stuff..
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Do Rondavels fall from the sky?
We find enough for us from here on |
Letaba
is a beautiful camp, almost custom made for hanging out in. This time
its really well organised and brilliantly managed. The day is spent
playing cards, reading, eating pies (Buffalo, Impala or Steak &
Kidney? hmmmmmm.... ), milk shakes and just lazily watching the wildlife
move in and out of our field of vision on the river directly in front
of the lodge.  |
Sunset at Letaba Camp,.
Deep in the heart of Kruger Park |
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Tuesday morning
Another frigid game drive at 5:30
- it's bloody cold - I mean REALLY! cold,
about 5 degrees, and blankets are a necessity
but also, very exclusive as in, just the 4 of us |
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This guy is also up at 5:30(AM!)
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And he's not very friendly or helpful
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Again, we hear mostly South African accents, very few
foreigner here. Another slightly more successful night drive, back to
our place around 7:00 and pepper steaks, a decent bottle of plonk and
the ever present brilliant starry skies, which still makes me gasp, see
us to bed.
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Eventually, sunrise. Our early morning game ride
Really cold and hunger inducing. Just a few Hyena |
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| Full 360 degrees of visuals, and very fresh air |
Now,
we have a morning drive followed by a "Bush Breakfast", even now I can
still see it. Once again we are up at 5:30(AM!) and have the same guide
as last night. There is just the four of us, so this is our own personal
game drive. Some stuff, including hyena on their way to breakfast, a
rotting hippo, just off the road. God it stinks. Probably be reduced to a
skull by this evening. More elephant of course plus the assorted
regulars.
This time we are prepared for the drive, even if we do look like refugees
, 5 layers of clothes plus 3 blankets each plus a cuddle from Kayla.
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Our driver was just posted to this camp
and had no idea where to go.
We were starving before he found it |
It's
the same guide as last night, as he is covering for someone on holiday
and he's not sure where our breakfast location is set up. So, after the
drive, we spend about 40 minutes looking for the right spot. Eventually,
we find it, pretty damn hungry now. Whatever ideas we had about what we
were getting were all under estimated by reality. Before us, in a
little glade (yes really!), with a full breakfast
ready, laid out, just waiting for us. Bacon, eggs, sausages, boerewors,
steak, |
Before us, in a little glade (yes really!),
with a full breakfast ready, laid out,
just waiting for us. |
toast, vegetables, fried tomatoes, coffee (good stuff), fruit
juices, soft drinks of all kinds.  |
Bacon, eggs, sausages, boerewors, steak, toast,
vegetables, fried tomatoes, coffee (good stuff),
fruit juices, soft drinks of all kinds
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In the river about
40 metres away, we see elephant, various buck and crocs. What a great
way to spend a morning. This is a knock out. Even if we were not madly
hungry, the grub was great. Totally pigged out, we amble around, doing
the tourist bit. Shots with our guide, chef, us, them,
need I go on?
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Our cook said he had been waiting for us for
over an hour
But did we ever pig out, to incredible excess |
On one of our morning game drives, we pass through the tropic of Capricorn
. Last time it was just a sign post, now it's a tourist hangout. We do the photo op
deeds.
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In the river about 40 metres away,
we see elephant, various buck and crocs.
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Letaba is a beautiful camp,
almost custom made for hanging out in
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Evening game drive: Baobab
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Baobab encounters sunset
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Back
at our cottage, we ready to head north to the next lodge Mopani. We
have booked a camping site, to be safe, but expect a cancellation. There
is not much around on the way, too hot, and I believe too far north in
the park now. The real place for game is in the south. This is probably
why we get a place here. Still no game walks available in the morning.
We've had it for drives, not enough around to justify it. There are two
lodges available, time to relax with the laundry, game spot on the
various decks with a few beers and do the statutory post cards.
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Just another one of those close encounters
Happens every day |
It's
great to just walk around the lodge, it is well designed, overlooking a
fairly large dam. About 30 crocs on the shore, lots of hippo's elephant
over on the other side. (This is getting rather repetitive). There is
also a pool here - warmer than all the others we have tried, but still
pretty damn uninviting, but what the hell? As bona fide Canadians, it
leaping time.
Still only South African accents around.
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On one of our morning game drives,
we pass through the tropic of Capricorn |
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| The tropic of Capricorn, this time heading North |
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| Southern Ground Hornbills |
Aiden
invests in a new map, ours is about 15 years old, there are a few more
camps and other updates. On our evening drive (ours this time - we seem
to do just as well on our own), he spots this overnight hide, so we drop
in and check out the facilities. Real drop down beds, a "boma" -
kitchen and eating/ living area complete with table chairs and braii.
It's all here. It's called Shipanade Hide.
We book it for tonight. Now we are back.
More regulation evening pepper steaks and brilliant sunsets
and starry nights. Not much in the way of game around here, Kayla even
wants the mosquito windows shut to keep out the night. Not sure how we
will cope in Mana Pools if we need mosquito netting here.Tomorrow
is another day, and we are happy to face it and adjust our requirements
and plans to suit it. I think again of the activities of our friends
and cohorts back in Toronto, finishing off another workday as we indulge
in this peace and unbelievable views of the Milky Way directly
overhead.
We have the answer to give our friends when they ask us why we would ever want to do this............ |
| brilliant sunsets and starry nights |
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Totally amazing event,
even if we all froze getting yjere
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Local fauna on our game drive later
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Otherwise, doing what all Instagrammers of today do
Stut our stuff, any followers yet?
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From your Correspondent/ May 21st 2025
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