Elevation 55m. Sunny
Toronto, Canada - Durban, Johannesburg, Kapsahoop, Mpumalanga South Africa
Route: Spy Road, Durban South Africa - Kaapsehoop, South Africa
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| Jimmy, my Diesel Cruiser Guru in waiting We pampered it and I outrageously invested in it - well, it's almost a life insurance policy, after all Our lives literally depended on this guy. GOOD WORK Jimmy & your great team |
"Carjackings are prevalent. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is required for most travel outside Maputo due to poor road conditions. This presents an additional security risk to travellers as these vehicles are frequent targets of carjackings. Bandits are active in border areas and in rural regions, particularly on routes to Mutare, Zimbabwe, and to South Africa (especially in Moamba)."
Refer to Canadian government warnings
Canadian Foreign Affairs web site for Mozambique
Compare and contrast with Canada:
Extremely virulent SARS rampaging Toronto, Mad Cow disease, and last but not least West Nile Virus (aka Malaria).
Yes, it certainly is a tough decision to make a call on. Of course, you are probably not going to be carjacked by a mad cow, whether its from Alberta or Johannesburg.
Why anyone, who my dear first born would describe as "a fat balding English guy" would want to head out to the dark continent again so soon after our last return, is still a little beyond me. Well into our 50's, and trailing along two teenagers who are not sure if they wanted, or ever agreed to go, we simply hope, as always for this next trip to be a success. As ever, all you have to do is tell enough people that you are going, and you eventually have to go. I'll only believe it once we are in Durban, safe & sound though.
For those of you interested: we have invested in a "Triband" Toronto based cell phone that works in several locations where we are going to be. When on the road in South Africa - this is most definitely your life line. Do not confuse the term "life line" with a metaphor! We are using Ilges cell, and the number, if you have it, will (should?) through some miracle of technology, work and you can dial us direct via the TO number. Just remember not to call us after 4:00PM your local time. Other contact numbers, and possible locations are below.
So........... to continue:
After several years in the, what I would laughingly call "organising" of this trip, we are finally only a few days away from actually departing Toronto for the wilds of the African plains.
This time, we know what we are in for, in fact, several bits of it are quite a boring retracing of where we have been 3 years before. This time, we are only taking 3 months to do our trip. Most people we tell this to say this in itself is excessive, however, it really will be over all too fast as we found out last time.
After our last trip, we decided that it would not be our last, it was just a matter of which year we would be heading out again.
So, instead of selling the trusty Land Cruiser when it came back last time, I kept it, pampered it and outrageously invested in it - well, it's almost a life insurance policy, after all. So Jimmy and Glen, our 3rd world mechanical specialists, have been hard at it for over two years on cruiser update. New transmission (fairly essential), 4 new tyres, multiple fixes from the degradations of Africa last time, new bearings in most places, and a new alarm system.
About 18 months ago, we sent out a general email to see if anyone else was interested in this jaunt in the velt. "Just get your 4 x 4, and well take you through the highlights of Southern Africa".
Compare and contrast with Canada:
Extremely virulent SARS rampaging Toronto, Mad Cow disease, and last but not least West Nile Virus (aka Malaria).
Yes, it certainly is a tough decision to make a call on. Of course, you are probably not going to be carjacked by a mad cow, whether its from Alberta or Johannesburg.
Why anyone, who my dear first born would describe as "a fat balding English guy" would want to head out to the dark continent again so soon after our last return, is still a little beyond me. Well into our 50's, and trailing along two teenagers who are not sure if they wanted, or ever agreed to go, we simply hope, as always for this next trip to be a success. As ever, all you have to do is tell enough people that you are going, and you eventually have to go. I'll only believe it once we are in Durban, safe & sound though.
For those of you interested: we have invested in a "Triband" Toronto based cell phone that works in several locations where we are going to be. When on the road in South Africa - this is most definitely your life line. Do not confuse the term "life line" with a metaphor! We are using Ilges cell, and the number, if you have it, will (should?) through some miracle of technology, work and you can dial us direct via the TO number. Just remember not to call us after 4:00PM your local time. Other contact numbers, and possible locations are below.
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| Jimmy and Glen have maintained almost every part of the beast. It's sadly aging due to Toronto winters, but still beats every other form of transport for Africa |
After several years in the, what I would laughingly call "organising" of this trip, we are finally only a few days away from actually departing Toronto for the wilds of the African plains.
This time, we know what we are in for, in fact, several bits of it are quite a boring retracing of where we have been 3 years before. This time, we are only taking 3 months to do our trip. Most people we tell this to say this in itself is excessive, however, it really will be over all too fast as we found out last time.
After our last trip, we decided that it would not be our last, it was just a matter of which year we would be heading out again.
So, instead of selling the trusty Land Cruiser when it came back last time, I kept it, pampered it and outrageously invested in it - well, it's almost a life insurance policy, after all. So Jimmy and Glen, our 3rd world mechanical specialists, have been hard at it for over two years on cruiser update. New transmission (fairly essential), 4 new tyres, multiple fixes from the degradations of Africa last time, new bearings in most places, and a new alarm system.
About 18 months ago, we sent out a general email to see if anyone else was interested in this jaunt in the velt. "Just get your 4 x 4, and well take you through the highlights of Southern Africa".
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| Jimmy has done everything he can think of |
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| And now we load up the roof top box |
Jimmy our trusty mechanic got pretty excited and will meet us in
Victoria Falls, Zim, (Editors Note: He chickened out and has forever regretted it) and our friends Maureen & Peter are also on
the hook for a trip through Zimbabwe. In fact, we started with Vic Falls
as the objective, and worked our plans front & back around
that
We thought that we would all be able to travel on our AirMiles, fat chance - 150,000 each? Even we are not that big at spending. So, Kayla & I pay cash, leave earlier, come back later, and Aiden hangs around for his exams, and comes directly after these with Ilge..
Also, what we did last time, ie lived in very secure game parks very
cheaply (peanuts in Zim), is now a very changed proposition.
South Africa is now double for us tourists, and Zim apparently has
multiplied their fees by 20! What was going to be a cheap stroll
through the bush, is now nothing of the sort.
I take the van to Montreal at Easter, and it should be there a week before we are. Theoretically, it has everything in it now - I don't believe that either.
I get pretty hi tech with web stuff this time - my own email set up, logins for corporate & personal accounts to channel funds at my whim. VPN is now on my machines, so I may even be able to load and maintain these very web pages (if I can be bothered).
Customer maintenance wise, Tom becomes my client manager, and David our accounts and general man about town to look after all manner of stuff which may arise. Some things don't change. Thanks folks.
We have done a fair amount of research, and find that several
countries we are visiting are refusing entry or quarantining Canadians.
During this last week we anxiously watch whether South Africa adds the
same criteria to it's list...... Another outbreak in Toronto,
and we scan the Canadian web sites for where we are totally not welcome.
So far, we are free of restrictions, or at least, we have the
illusion of no restrictions.
As a final act, it's time for the ponytail to go. It was a mercy killing, but at least I wont need to comb my hair for a few months.
What we are leaving behind? Friends, security, steady identifiable
life, clients, jobs, school mates, daily existence, in general, all that
regular crap. Hopefully, all that will be here when we return.
What are we heading into? Well, we know more or less from our last trip: fantastic vistas, a totally non western set of expectations (you never have to ask "can I ...........?") and experiences, excitement and (hopefully not too much) adrenaline.
Our contact emails, for African style instant gratification, are:
By the time you read this, there will be no operator standing by, no additional air miles for responding to this web page, and no one to answer your call. Follow our exciting adventures at batsmith.blogspot.ca
If anyone needs to contact us urgently, call Tom & Ling
Watch this web page for more news whenever we find an Internet cafe.
Have a great summer, and we will try to come back as a happy family, all alive after having a great winter :)
Our rough (actually very fixed this time) plans are:
June 22nd, 2003 Durban, KwaZulu Natal,
We thought that we would all be able to travel on our AirMiles, fat chance - 150,000 each? Even we are not that big at spending. So, Kayla & I pay cash, leave earlier, come back later, and Aiden hangs around for his exams, and comes directly after these with Ilge..
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| Which is loaded with a pile of gear |
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| And once locked in, is pretty secure from theft by shipping crew |
I take the van to Montreal at Easter, and it should be there a week before we are. Theoretically, it has everything in it now - I don't believe that either.
I get pretty hi tech with web stuff this time - my own email set up, logins for corporate & personal accounts to channel funds at my whim. VPN is now on my machines, so I may even be able to load and maintain these very web pages (if I can be bothered).
Customer maintenance wise, Tom becomes my client manager, and David our accounts and general man about town to look after all manner of stuff which may arise. Some things don't change. Thanks folks.
 |
| And that's it. Lets get off to the port of Montreal |
As a final act, it's time for the ponytail to go. It was a mercy killing, but at least I wont need to comb my hair for a few months.
 |
| We need to ship for an 8 week journey Looks like April, ready to lock & load as it were I take the van to Montreal at Easter |
What are we heading into? Well, we know more or less from our last trip: fantastic vistas, a totally non western set of expectations (you never have to ask "can I ...........?") and experiences, excitement and (hopefully not too much) adrenaline.
Our contact emails, for African style instant gratification, are:
By the time you read this, there will be no operator standing by, no additional air miles for responding to this web page, and no one to answer your call. Follow our exciting adventures at batsmith.blogspot.ca
If anyone needs to contact us urgently, call Tom & Ling
Watch this web page for more news whenever we find an Internet cafe.
Have a great summer, and we will try to come back as a happy family, all alive after having a great winter :)
Our rough (actually very fixed this time) plans are:
| June 14th | Kayla & I leave Toronto, | |
| June 16th - 20th?? | Durban (Mike & Kerry) | |
| June 21st - 24th | High Velt (high places) | |
| June 26th | Ilge & Aiden Arrive Joburg | |
| June 25th - July 4th | Kruger/ Low Velt (game park & low places) | |
| July 4th - 11th | Kruger Park Lodge (Time Share) | 0112711 27 13 7377021 |
| July 12th - 18th | Eastern Mpumalanga & Kruger Park | |
| July 19th - 24th | Zim up to Vic Falls via Matobos & Hwange: | |
| July 25th - August 1st | Lokathula Lodge Vic Falls (Paradise) | 01126311 263 13 44717 |
| August 2nd - 9th | Hwange - Mana Pools | |
| August 10th - 17th | Kariba/ Lower Zambezi - Mana Pools | |
| August 18th - 23rd | Mana Pools - Chimanimani / Chipinge | |
| August 24th - Sept 6th | Mozambique (who knows?) | |
| Sept 9th, | Ilge & Aiden Depart Joburg for home | |
| September 14th. | Kayla & I depart Durban for home |
June 22nd, 2003 Durban, KwaZulu Natal,
Elevation 20m, Sunny
And so it begins. Ignominiously, but it begins nonetheless.
We (Kayla & I) arrive at 13:15 local Durban time, on Monday 16th. after 2 night flights.
I remember most distinctly the Air Canada check in. After recent
firings due to various bankruptcies, everyone had just heard that
300 more of these very check in folk were to be chopped in 2 weeks. I
wondered if we would actually arrive in Heathrow or London
Ontario.
We were lucky, David, my man about town when I'm not, told me to get to the airport early as they were multi overbooking tickets.
And so it begins. Ignominiously, but it begins nonetheless.
We (Kayla & I) arrive at 13:15 local Durban time, on Monday 16th. after 2 night flights.
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| A brief hiatus in UK, this time bugging the Alexanders again |
We were lucky, David, my man about town when I'm not, told me to get to the airport early as they were multi overbooking tickets.
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| Suitably jet lagged, to and from Toronto and Durban London at 10:30 local, our buddy Alex, picks us up, and we feast and catch up all day |
We got there 3 hours before the time on our ticket - usually its 60 - 90
minutes. We get terrible seats. I ask why, and am told that you
need to be there 2 hours ago to get "decent" seats. "Impossible!" I
remonstrate. However, we are straight in, and we are boarding with
20 minute to go before we depart. New flight, new number 2 hours earlier
than our tickets suggested departure time.
Air Canada SUCKS! What a pile of wankers, they start serving dinner around 11:30 Toronto time, 4:30AM local London time.
Come 7:00AM local UK time, it's down the aisle with "Duty Free" fare. All lights still on, no peace.
London at 10:30 local, our buddy Alex, picks us up, and we feast and catch up all day, only occasionally catching a few ZZZZZ'z. We are late for check in (again), but luckily get 2 seats in the upper deck on our South African flight.
Now these SAA guys really have got their act together! Socks, portable toothbrush, even eye covers (extremely good for sleeping) all supplied in the travel kit, full menu for food and WOW! lights out within 2 hours of take off. ALL lights out ALL night. We awake to Southern Zim airspace.
All our bags arrive, we present our Canadian passports, waiting anxiously for any sign of our oncoming 10 days of quarantine, and in 30 seconds are out in the arrivals area. Piece of cake after all - this is Africa remember. We transfer to the internal terminal: Joburg does not "feel" bad this time, and within fifteen minutes, are waiting for our last flight to Durban.
A short plane hop later, and we are in Durban, and Mike & Kerry
are showing us the "Comrades" marathon, (no not some left wing
freedom thing, real Comrades in Arms as it turns out), which takes place
annually this weekend from Petermaritzburg to Durban
-90Km to be run in 12 hours or less. It's very popular with 13000 -
14,000 entries this year. We later find out one Japanese runner (65
year old), was mugged for his running shoes. Sounds as if South Africa
is much the same as ever.
Our host and hostess Mike and Kerry, are, as ever, extremely welcoming. It's great to be back. I scan the stars and pick out the Southern Cross, my constellation of choice.
Thursday and we are up for dolphins in the Indian Ocean. Huge amounts of them all around us.
Check on the van, and try to convince the guy to have it ready by Friday ("I'll try"). It's certainly improved, but still looks a long way off. On the way home, I pick up a night stick (as used by all fascist police pig dogs), half because Aiden wants one, and half because we may need it. God help us if we do, I'm sure whoever we level it at will be far better armed than us!
Kayla really missing friends and some form of peer group. Getting through 2 books a day now. We find a place for music and get some books for her ever increasing repertoire. Its Kerry's sons birthday, and we have a part where Kayla plays Happy Birthday on her flute.
I find out that emailing will not be too easy via a phone line direct to my Toronto link, too bad. More shopping, and finally, we try the pool. It looks very inviting, but it's about as cold as I remember my swimming lessons from England - that means it's about 10 - 12 degrees. I do not hang around here too long.
We feel pretty much at ease here, not totally paranoid yet. We are of course very aware of where we are.
Saturday, and finally, we have the van back. They did a pretty good
job. We had to wait an extra 2 hours while they washed and
cleaned it. Our freight agent Jose (FANTASTIC guy), has looked after all
the details.
This extends even to the point of allowing me to totally wreck a book case made of Dexion angle iron in his warehouse to have some parts to use for repairing the storage space frame. This was also pretty buckled and buggered. Spent the morning waiting, the afternoon with Juliet who again was someone we met last time at one of the time shares. It was a birthday party, so we had cake and drinks and chats to catch up.
Good to feel settled and in control of my life again.
The evening finds us sawing up the remains of the bookcase for our frame remake and bolting the vans storage bits back together. We are done by 8:00PM, and relax, TV time.
Sunday morning sees us packing for our first real leap into Africa this time around. In the afternoon, its culture time.
The
KwaZulu-Natal Symphony orchestra is having a concert in the park. This
is a botanical garden and it is a very pretty place. Lots of
tropical plants, tree's and animal - especially birds, mingle with the
stirring strains of "The Lion King" and "Star Wars Meddly".
The Junior band plays first, acoustics are crap in Botanic Gardens,
but the overall effect is magic. The real symphony is pretty good,
especially the soloists. Some of the pieces are pretty populist, others
esoteric, but what the hell? Wine, cheese, tasties etc (Kerry is an
excellent cook) add to the mix. Lying on the grass watching spoonbills and sacred ibises come in to roost in trees that were surely
planted when Victoria reigned, was something special.
Tomorrow, and we are off into the Draks. Finally our trip begins.
Odometer: 305677 Distance Travelled: 0Km Actual Distance: 0Km
Sunday, June 29th, Kaapsehoop, Mpumalanga, South Africa. Elevation: 500m
Cold, wet, COLD, damp and glorious, in that order.
Our third and final day here. It would be truly fantastic if the sun had shone like it has for the past 2 hours all the time, but it has not. We have however had a truly amazing ride in the real (?) outback of South Africa, even better than our ride around Champaign Lane last time we were here.
The story so far: come Monday AM, we are up early, packing and saying our goodbyes. Into Durban to
get the roof box on, pick up the gas cap (left at the body shop), and by 10:30. Kayla & I begin our
travels. We pass a pleasant first day on the road slowly winding our way first out of Durban, then again
up and out of Petermaritzburg -great view looking back, but I can't too much as I'm driving. Last time I
did this, the van overheated, and it took a week to fix. Still due to that problem, we met Mike & Kerry,
so it was a bonus in hiding. This time, just a slight rise in engine temperature, and we are up onto the
Highvelt - about 1200 metres. We are taking the Drakensburg mountains (fantastic scenery) route to
Sterkfontein Dam just inside Free State.
All in all, no major problems with this driving on the left - just follow the guy in front, and be very careful turning right.
We arrive early, from the days travel. Lovely place with a great view. Luckily, they found us a cabin as it was freezing that night and camping would have given us a few frozen body parts.
A very interesting evening spent watching the TV. It only has 1 channel this far out as it's pretty remote here. This does however have at least three sets of audience: English, Afrikaans and (?) Zulu (could be Sotho?). There may also be a common thread of generic morons as some of the shows are unbelievable, well maybe not so much considering CBS & NBC programming. Apart from the shows being pretty off the wall, the interesting thing for us was the news. Essentially, it was one station, one set of news and 3 ways to present it.
It's lovely here. Quiet, peaceful and safe - not a strand of razor wire anywhere. Wide open perfectly clear skies. Kayla & I play chess on the garden chessboard.
Wednesday and we check out the locale around the town. We (or is it just me?) Begin to feel that we are back in the real South Africa.
International airport - just twice the price of everywhere outside of town. We
stock up with fruit & pies (a South African delicacy), and spend the evening reading.
Odometer: 305677 Distance Travelled: 1430Km Trip Distance: 850Km
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| Our host and hostess Mike and Kerry, are, as ever, extremely welcoming. It's great to be back |
London at 10:30 local, our buddy Alex, picks us up, and we feast and catch up all day, only occasionally catching a few ZZZZZ'z. We are late for check in (again), but luckily get 2 seats in the upper deck on our South African flight.
Now these SAA guys really have got their act together! Socks, portable toothbrush, even eye covers (extremely good for sleeping) all supplied in the travel kit, full menu for food and WOW! lights out within 2 hours of take off. ALL lights out ALL night. We awake to Southern Zim airspace.
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| Ouch! Gordon Bennet What a mess! Inspecting the damage Someone's going to pay for this! (You got it! I did) |
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| There is no peace, Toronto or Durban First aid on the fly |
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| We take in the view at Durban harbour, and head for grub |
All our bags arrive, we present our Canadian passports, waiting anxiously for any sign of our oncoming 10 days of quarantine, and in 30 seconds are out in the arrivals area. Piece of cake after all - this is Africa remember. We transfer to the internal terminal: Joburg does not "feel" bad this time, and within fifteen minutes, are waiting for our last flight to Durban.
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To replace some of the damage, I need angle iron, urgently. Thankfully, Jose, the customs broker gave me access to this book case, made of said, angle iron |
Our host and hostess Mike and Kerry, are, as ever, extremely welcoming. It's great to be back. I scan the stars and pick out the Southern Cross, my constellation of choice.
It's the middle of winter
here, almost cold, refreshing even. My plan is complete and jet
lagged and mentally bedraggled, we finally fall into a wonderful bed for
the sleep on a flat surface, of the well travelled.
Tuesday AM and Kerry takes us into town. The van has been pummelled by
something somewhere and it needs some extensive
bodywork. It's a mess, complicated by the fact that everything inside
(yes everything) has to be taken out.
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| Dogs are popular too. We have 3 here, Scotty, |
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| Charles & Sally are also our daily guardians. |
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| Its Kerry's sons birthday, and we have a part where Kayla plays Happy Birthday on her flute. |
It's loaded into the top box
and Kerry's car, and the cruiser is off for a lengthy body job.
We head
of to the harbour for a huge lunch, and then return to Mike &
Kerry's to wait for the van. Still, being stuck here does have its advantages. Instead of pony
trekking through the Drakensburg (highly recommended), we spend
the week with Mike & Kerry who takes time off work for us, (thanks Kerry!). Wednesday for a lazy day, shopping, getting maps and
updating our research with maps and inquiries for Mozambique.
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| Kayla tries her luck with the Indian Ocean |
Check on the van, and try to convince the guy to have it ready by Friday ("I'll try"). It's certainly improved, but still looks a long way off. On the way home, I pick up a night stick (as used by all fascist police pig dogs), half because Aiden wants one, and half because we may need it. God help us if we do, I'm sure whoever we level it at will be far better armed than us!
Kayla really missing friends and some form of peer group. Getting through 2 books a day now. We find a place for music and get some books for her ever increasing repertoire. Its Kerry's sons birthday, and we have a part where Kayla plays Happy Birthday on her flute.
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| Our luxury craft awaits |
I find out that emailing will not be too easy via a phone line direct to my Toronto link, too bad. More shopping, and finally, we try the pool. It looks very inviting, but it's about as cold as I remember my swimming lessons from England - that means it's about 10 - 12 degrees. I do not hang around here too long.
We feel pretty much at ease here, not totally paranoid yet. We are of course very aware of where we are.
Most places are surrounded
by barbed, razor or electrified wire. In many cases, all 3. Armed
response signs and dogs are popular too. We have 3 here, Scotty, Charles & Sally are our
daily guardians.
Every time you park your car, there is a guy
(both white and black) who looks after between 5 - 25 vehicles. For
this, you give them
R2.00 (about 25cents). This is their source of income. Not much to live
on eh? The other side is that you can buy a 3/4 bed house,
with a pool and an acre or two in a really good neighbourhood complete
with said security fence, for $CAN100,00 - $150,000. I have
to say that if SA ever sorts out the crime problem, it will be instantly
be bought up by Europe and North America. Don't hold your
breath for this though. Zim has properties that are about a tenth the
cost of this. It's almost worth retiring for.
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| Well, this is different from home, but there's work to be done |
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| After a few hours, we are taking in the Indian Ocean and residents |
This extends even to the point of allowing me to totally wreck a book case made of Dexion angle iron in his warehouse to have some parts to use for repairing the storage space frame. This was also pretty buckled and buggered. Spent the morning waiting, the afternoon with Juliet who again was someone we met last time at one of the time shares. It was a birthday party, so we had cake and drinks and chats to catch up.
 |
| Everytime you park your car, there is a guy (both white and black) who looks after between 5 - 25 vehicles |
The evening finds us sawing up the remains of the bookcase for our frame remake and bolting the vans storage bits back together. We are done by 8:00PM, and relax, TV time.
Sunday morning sees us packing for our first real leap into Africa this time around. In the afternoon, its culture time.
 |
| Lying on the grass watching spoonbills and sacred ibises come in to roost in trees |
 |
| The KwaZulu-Natal Symphony orchestra is having a concert in the park The band was dire, but the event, accompanied by Victorian era trees, was wonderful. Wine, cheese, tasties etc |
Tomorrow, and we are off into the Draks. Finally our trip begins.
Odometer: 305677 Distance Travelled: 0Km Actual Distance: 0Km
Sunday, June 29th, Kaapsehoop, Mpumalanga, South Africa. Elevation: 500m
Cold, wet, COLD, damp and glorious, in that order.
Our third and final day here. It would be truly fantastic if the sun had shone like it has for the past 2 hours all the time, but it has not. We have however had a truly amazing ride in the real (?) outback of South Africa, even better than our ride around Champaign Lane last time we were here.
 |
| Kayla & I travel, suitably paranoid, North to pick up the family |
 |
| We arrive early, from the days travel. Lovely place with a great view |
All in all, no major problems with this driving on the left - just follow the guy in front, and be very careful turning right.
We arrive early, from the days travel. Lovely place with a great view. Luckily, they found us a cabin as it was freezing that night and camping would have given us a few frozen body parts.
A very interesting evening spent watching the TV. It only has 1 channel this far out as it's pretty remote here. This does however have at least three sets of audience: English, Afrikaans and (?) Zulu (could be Sotho?). There may also be a common thread of generic morons as some of the shows are unbelievable, well maybe not so much considering CBS & NBC programming. Apart from the shows being pretty off the wall, the interesting thing for us was the news. Essentially, it was one station, one set of news and 3 ways to present it.
 |
| Paranoid doesn't even come close We find a relatively safe space about 200Kms out of Joburg |
We only saw the Sotho & Afrikaans news. There was something about white guys in
Pretoria, and in Afrikaans, we only saw their faces, but on the black news variety, we also saw full shots
of the manacles they had on. The Afrikaans showed footage of several interviews, and all the whites
spoke Afrikaans, and most of the blacks spoke English. Only when we saw the Sotho news did we
realise the interviewees had been speaking English, but were dubbed in to Afrikaans.
Back on the highway after our detour and we head off to our next stop - Vaal Dam in Gauteng. We are still very much aware of the road side/ security situation here. While driving from the dam, there was a car which had very recently driven off the road, there were 2 cars there when we passed, but, I'd been warned not to stop on any highway.
Back on the highway after our detour and we head off to our next stop - Vaal Dam in Gauteng. We are still very much aware of the road side/ security situation here. While driving from the dam, there was a car which had very recently driven off the road, there were 2 cars there when we passed, but, I'd been warned not to stop on any highway.
Very sad state of affairs, maybe it's simple a very sad state of
mind?
Vaal Dam: This placed is truly frightening, we head into the main resort, razor wire, high fences,
security guards like I do not want to believe. How can people live under these conditions? Total
paranoia sets in. It's getting late. Gauteng does not seem to be a location I want to be in at night time, so
we get the hell out of there and bugger off to a place about 150Km out of Joburg in a totally different
direction . We end up, just after dark at Oliphants, a lodge just outside of Middleburg .
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| And the family settles in upon arrival. Lots of sleep required as their trip required a night in Frankfurt |
It's lovely here. Quiet, peaceful and safe - not a strand of razor wire anywhere. Wide open perfectly clear skies. Kayla & I play chess on the garden chessboard.
Wednesday and we check out the locale around the town. We (or is it just me?) Begin to feel that we are back in the real South Africa.
 |
| We read books while they caught up with their sleep |
Parking guards are everywhere again, not sure if that's a good sign or
not anymore. At least we can assume the van will be safe for a while. This is also partially because we
now have triple protection: the alarm if a door opens (or even is someone tries the handle), a steering
security lock, plus the safe where we keep lots of our really difficult to manage without stuff. We hope
it's effective.
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| Aiden, Kayla & I are out into a sodden grey wet cold (get the idea?) landscape |
Check out the local tourist office in Middleburg - they do not have a clue regarding anything. We are
looking for a place for the night closer to Joburg, but not in it. Eventually, we buy into going to the
Holiday Inn at the Joburg
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| Kaapsehoop. Wrong time of year, Southern winter No problem, we're out riding anyway |
Picked up Ilge and Aiden in Johannesburg the next morning. After a few minutes to regroup and shower
as necessary (2 nights travelling here now), the reformed and reunited family, complete with a huge
amount of excess baggage, head out into Africa in the cruiser.
Back to Oliphants Lodge, (120K back out of town) while the newcomers snooze.
Kayla & I shop for grub, for the day, and settle in for a relaxing time. We cook, and both sleep through it. What the hell, they can eat tomorrow.
So, we have now spent 3 days here.
Kaapsehoop, Mpumalanga, June 27th
We have a cottage which is used as a communal house for summer camps etc. Its pretty cold, so we have a fire. God, what a mess, smoke everywhere. With no table inside (really!), we eat out with whatever thickness of clothes we can move in. Real pioneer stuff, without the oxen.
Kayla loves riding, and we are happy to jog / gallop around with her. Saturday, and it's miserable, but we have booked up and 3 of us, Aiden, Kayla & I are out into a sodden grey wet cold (get the idea?) landscape. It's actually rather pleasant to be back on a horse. We do need to sign waivers, which is a first, other than that, you are on your own. It continues damp & miserable until Sunday PM, when we have a fantastic 4 some trip out to the valleys and mountains. The kids & I have piles of canters, Ilge watching from the distant reaches, and we all agree it was a worthwhile day.
Now we plan our next move - Visas for Mozambique, just down the road in Nelspruit. No idea where
we will end up tomorrow, but that's what this is all about.
Back to Oliphants Lodge, (120K back out of town) while the newcomers snooze.
Kayla & I shop for grub, for the day, and settle in for a relaxing time. We cook, and both sleep through it. What the hell, they can eat tomorrow.
So, we have now spent 3 days here.
Kaapsehoop, Mpumalanga, June 27th
We have a cottage which is used as a communal house for summer camps etc. Its pretty cold, so we have a fire. God, what a mess, smoke everywhere. With no table inside (really!), we eat out with whatever thickness of clothes we can move in. Real pioneer stuff, without the oxen.
 |
| City slickers meet puppy |
Kayla loves riding, and we are happy to jog / gallop around with her. Saturday, and it's miserable, but we have booked up and 3 of us, Aiden, Kayla & I are out into a sodden grey wet cold (get the idea?) landscape. It's actually rather pleasant to be back on a horse. We do need to sign waivers, which is a first, other than that, you are on your own. It continues damp & miserable until Sunday PM, when we have a fantastic 4 some trip out to the valleys and mountains. The kids & I have piles of canters, Ilge watching from the distant reaches, and we all agree it was a worthwhile day.
 |
| It continues damp & miserable until Sunday PM, when we have a fantastic 4 some trip out to the valleys and mountains. Yes, grey and dreary, but fine for Kayla We froze |
Odometer: 305677 Distance Travelled: 1430Km Trip Distance: 850Km
Editors Note:
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
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| Durban Harbour, with local fisherfolk |
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| Our departure point |
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| For our Dolphin adventure |
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| After a few days in an aeroplane without sleep |
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| This counts as significant R&R |
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| Same for these guys I guess |
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| Quite a welcome spectacle after a few years of customers |
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| Quite a change, especially with a damaged vehicle |
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| And Kerry was wonderful as our hostess |
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| Some form of compensation from the damage I had to deal with |
From your Correspondent/ May 21st 2025
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