Route: Carribea Bay Casino - Ndundu Lodge, Vumba, Zimbabwe
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| About 25Kms out of Kariba. I've been here several times before It wasn't so peaceful back then |
This is right off the beaten track, even past Troutbeck Inn which is pretty remote in itself, and then a jog across country. The view from our 3 bedroomed cabin, high up in the Nyanga hills is stunning. Once again, we are the only tourists domestic or international, for miles or even hundreds of miles around.
Before departing from our time share at Caribbea Bay on Monday, 30th October, we stop by for a final e-mail, the kids pick up some "Nyaminyami" walking sticks - walking sticks beautifully carved from a solid piece of wood with a depiction of the Zambezi river god plus ancillary Tonga tribal history - you gotta see it folks!, and head off, with some trepidations concerning fuel.
On the borders where we have spent all our time so far, we can simply cross over to another country if we look like running out, or, to be honest, if the security situation worsens to the point where we have to leave Zim. We anticipate no such problems, but, it's a long way to the South African border from here: at least 2 full tanks, or more like 4 fill ups. Much more if we actually head where we plan, and take in the Eastern and southern parts before we leave. Oh well, we have time, we have US dollars, and we can work out any other relevant details from there.
It's a long, hot and sweaty road out of Kariba, about 70 Km of
twisting, hilly and usually narrow road. Good condition though. On
the way, there are several elephants off in the distance - this is a
park incidentally, but not much else is about. Very little traffic on
this road - most of the heavy stuff goes via the main road to Chirundu.
At the main Harare road junction, we try our luck at a gas station -
long since gave up and now only has a security guard and cokes.
About 100Km south, we finally get to use our wipers - the first time
since the Namib desert nearly 3 months ago. There is a
proverbial cloud burst - typical of the rainy season, and the wipers are
hard pressed to keep up. It abates close to Karoi, and we pull
into the first gas station still running. These folks have not had
Diesel for a month. Hmmmm, we can just get back to Kariba with
what we have, but, trusting to luck we head off and chance upon a
station which actually has a diesel delivery taking place. We wait
for a while, and tank up.
Chinoyi aka Shinoia prior to 1981 is arrived at. This is where "Jock"
- the guy we met at Henties Bay way back in Namibia, lives. Or
we think so anyway.
Chinoyi has a deep fresh water cave, known for it's deep blue colour. There are two hotel/ motels here, one at the cave. The manager offers us a discount, almost as soon as we are in the door. We come to an agreement and head into town to find "Jock"
Well, we know that there is a small European population here, and eventually find some.
"This may sound like a strange question" says the missus,
"I doubt it" the guy replied,
"Well, do you know someone called 'Jock'?"
"Which one?" he replies,
"We're not sure, but we met him in Henties Bay, Namibia....." this has to be too daft to believe I think to myself.
"Oh!, you want Jock McClean, he's my father in law. Hi, I'm Ian" he informs us, "I'm from Calgary"
etc etc.
So,
we have found the person we are after, and we have his phone number.
Seems like he is "farm sitting" back up North a bit, so he
is not in town.
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| We spend 2 hours sweating in the caves For those of you who have tracked my previous lives, this will look familiar |
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It was soooo humid and sticky, but glad to revisit my old haunts |
Chinoyi has a deep fresh water cave, known for it's deep blue colour. There are two hotel/ motels here, one at the cave. The manager offers us a discount, almost as soon as we are in the door. We come to an agreement and head into town to find "Jock"
Well, we know that there is a small European population here, and eventually find some.
"This may sound like a strange question" says the missus,
"I doubt it" the guy replied,
"Well, do you know someone called 'Jock'?"
"Which one?" he replies,
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| Jock farm sitting, but only until today We actually introduce ourselves to each other, we dine. |
"Oh!, you want Jock McClean, he's my father in law. Hi, I'm Ian" he informs us, "I'm from Calgary"
etc etc.
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| Beautiful gardens, soon to be trashed by the Freedom Fighters |
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| Hey! it's a lovely garden and a well balanced pix. Get over it folks. I like it |
We get through to Jock's wife, and we have a chat. Jock will call us tomorrow.
The power comes back on when we return to our room. We have a TV - just the local stuff, so we tune into the latest rationalisations of the government. All crap. A "debate" concerning land redistribution, turned out to be a didactic tour de force of any reason, improbable, but usually just plain immaterial and bent and twisted, as to the governments continuing efforts. Balance, debate, informative, even factual, it was not.
October 31st - HAPPY HALLOWEEN! Fat chance here kids.
Jock has already called when we arrive at breakfast, and we have a message.
Eventually, we talk, and he invites us up for a night to the farm sit.
"We have squatters, but they are pretty placid" he assures us.
We agree to meet them about 12:00AM after we have explored the local caves.
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| The Freeedom Fighters, aka War Veterans, headquarters Most of of these "War Vets" were not even born when I was last here during the war |
We spend 2 hours sweating in the caves - we all agree that it was worth it, but that's enough, and after our sweaty exit, we head back North. It's 50Km, and we get there in time for lunch. I am the only one that met Jock, and that was for a full 5 minutes, but as he is the only white man around here, I assume that the first one we meet on the side road will be him. This is he.
We arrive at the farm. It appears that he wanted us there for lunch, so after we actually introduce ourselves to each other, we dine.
Of course there are dogs - specifically arranged here for the kids, plus, there is the farm to investigate and check out the squatters. We do a tour - only about a 200Ha farm this, but complete with kudu etc. This being a cattle ranch, we inspect the cows, and the dipping pits.
The squatters are camped out at the entrance to the farm, we say hi as we pass, and hope that they do not decide that tonight will be the time to show whitey who is boss.
As evening descends, we all listen to the local CB radio. This is exactly the same as the last time I was in Zim during the "struggle". Everyone chatting and listening to what is going on within a 60/ 80 Km radius. When there is some action, everyone hears about it and turns up to provide support. At 7:30PM, we hear that a farmer has been beaten up at Lions Den - about 30Km away. Half an hour later, on the Zimbabwe Radio (very pro government), the news reader informs us that a farmer near our area (Karoi/ Chinoyi), has been
"inciting the war veterans to react to provocation", (ie he did not allow the "war vets" to burn his crops etc) she then further adds that
"such farmers will have their crops seized if this behaviour continues"
This is the self same farmer who was beaten up earlier in the day. Ah....Africa!
Luckily, the night is a quiet and peaceful one, and I for one am very grateful that we have been able to be near the epicentre of this social, political and judicial government inspired chaos.
At breakfast, I hear that the price of fuel has gone up that night. I have visions of much social unrest as we head south into Harare, and out East to the Eastern Highlands.
We depart the farm (Jock is only farm sitting and is leaving today, or we could have stayed longer), and hope to be through Harare before 12:00AM, just in case.
A quick goodbye and thanks, and we are off South.
There is fuel in Chinhoyi and we tank up, hopefully we will not need our spare 25L for this leg.
On the outskirts of Chinhoyi, being a once large tourist area, there is about an acre or more of crafts. Beautiful stuff some of it, but no takers.
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| We take the Harare bypass and we head off to Nyanga. |
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| Making it up as you go along has the occasional advantages Like unexpected showers |
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| Well, some things still function in Zim This is a local dairy farm. I must have put on another 5 pounds here |
hoping for things to improve.
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| I guess this could be ticked off as an educational field trip |
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| A long wait between punters in Nyanga, There was once a thriving craft centre here We didn't buy any here. We'll get everything at the SA border (I hope) |
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| Zim crafts folk are really very talented Such a great waste to the world |
Ezulwini, high in the
mountains (about 2200m).
It costs $C18.00 per night, marvellous view, free firewood thrown in - you need it here!
We settle in for 4 days.
We read some of the visitors comments.
There are not many lately.
Most are very complimentary, but there is at least one that makes us think:
"I found a rat IN THE BED.
This is totally unacceptable.
We are leaving"
There was a separate column for the management
"We apologise for any inconvenience caused and have adjusted our cleaning processes to ensure this situation does nor recur"
November 2nd finds us supping away at a local dairy farm with muffins, milk (I get 1.5 litres of pure unadulterated just milked full cream milk - watch that waistline buster!), and coffee. We look out over the mountains. It's fantastic. The farm is open, so we check out the sights, and watch them milk and make "lacto" (butter milk) from yesterdays milking.
Troutbeck, is about 12Km back down the Nyanga road. We stop in at the (world famous?) Troutbeck Inn, for a lunchy snack, then
back to Nyanga for a sniff around.
There was once a thriving craft centre here, now they see a tourist every few days, or so. We watch some of the artists make more
stone statues for the eventual tourist boom. They have a lot in stock already.
I get my sandals repaired. The crafts are fine, but we will wait till our exit of Zim before we load up the van.
We have a slow day on the Friday, back to the dairy farm, and the kids get some "schoolwork" attempted. They seem to be giving us more crap now about working. It often take a lot more to get them motivated to do anything except play. I expect next term will be quite difficult for them both.
We braai with a great view.
We settle in for 4 days.
We read some of the visitors comments.
There are not many lately.
Most are very complimentary, but there is at least one that makes us think:
"I found a rat IN THE BED.
This is totally unacceptable.
We are leaving"
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| We watch some of the artists make more stone statues for the eventual tourist boom. Not one tourist in weeks |
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| Well, shoe makers always have income. Fixing my sandals |
"We apologise for any inconvenience caused and have adjusted our cleaning processes to ensure this situation does nor recur"
November 2nd finds us supping away at a local dairy farm with muffins, milk (I get 1.5 litres of pure unadulterated just milked full cream milk - watch that waistline buster!), and coffee. We look out over the mountains. It's fantastic. The farm is open, so we check out the sights, and watch them milk and make "lacto" (butter milk) from yesterdays milking.
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| Such happy, friendly and really smart people here |
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We found this place at the Nyanga visitor centre, Ezulwini, high in the mountains (about 2200m). |
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| As the brochure said "Free firewood" We used a lot, plus BQ's every night We braai with a great view. |
I get my sandals repaired. The crafts are fine, but we will wait till our exit of Zim before we load up the van.
We have a slow day on the Friday, back to the dairy farm, and the kids get some "schoolwork" attempted. They seem to be giving us more crap now about working. It often take a lot more to get them motivated to do anything except play. I expect next term will be quite difficult for them both.
We braai with a great view.
Saturday, Nov 3rd, and we tackle a loop around the Nyanga mountains.
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| The road is supposed to be pretty good Lets go! |
The road is supposed to be pretty good - it is now a bus route,
but it's heavy duty hills and twisting slope makes for a rally drive scenario for me the driver. We pass through beautiful villages and
valleys right on the Mozambican border, but I'm exhausted by the time we get to Aberfoils - about 80Km and 3 hours later.
This country club, being on the border with Mozambique, took a lot of shelling etc during the war. There are still bunkers facing the border here. There is a downpour as we have lunch.
On the way here, and out, we pass through the tea plantation - very pastoral and soothing.
It's a long way out of the Honde valley, but some spectacular scenery. We fill up at Juliasdale, and all in all, a successful day, but we're glad to be back home.
This country club, being on the border with Mozambique, took a lot of shelling etc during the war. There are still bunkers facing the border here. There is a downpour as we have lunch.
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| A grand tour around the area, |
It's a long way out of the Honde valley, but some spectacular scenery. We fill up at Juliasdale, and all in all, a successful day, but we're glad to be back home.
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| We pass through beautiful villages and valleys right on the Mozambican border |
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| and through tea estates and the like |
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| Aberfoils for lunch I was last here in 1977. It was VERY HOT, as in lots of people who wanted to kill you. No land mines or terrorists like last time though Kayla modelling bunker |
Distance moved on trip this entry: 700 Km
Monday, November 6th,
Ndundu Lodge, Bvumba, Zimbabwe
Of all the places we've been so far, this has got to be one of, if not the most beautiful.
This is the Bvumba mountain range. It is a lump of high land just south of Mutare in central eastern Zim. It was very "hot" during the war, so I never got here back then.
Right next to this backpacker cum mini hotel, is "Tony's Coffee House". The Lonely Planet guide identifies it as having
"Excellent coffee, and some of the finest cakes in the world". They are not wrong - it's a magnificent taste treat. This alone identifies the Bvumba as having it's own entry here.
Yesterday, Sunday, we head here to the Bvumba via Mutare - it's only about 120Km.
We sadly left Ezulwinni, and pausing only to fill up again with Diesel and peaches from the local vendors once again as we pass through Juliasdale, we head South. The road here is pretty steep, and once at the top, we pass through ancient rain forests and reserves.
As we get here to Bvumbu Lodge early, - about 11:00AM,, we check in - it looks cozy & comfortable, and we take the upstairs family room.
Having an entire afternoon, we decide to go for a trek to Leopard Rock Hotel - another place devastated during the war. Having very little idea where it is etc, we simply follow "Path #4" and see where it takes us.
Well, Leopard Rock is about 5 Km away, this route is straight through a rainforest
which pretty well descends the entire height we
gained when we drove here - ie about 700 metres. It's very humid and
hot. There are at least two places where the signs have "gone
missing", and we stumble down past fallen trees and soggy streams -
perfect environment for mambas, Cobras and various other
poisonous fauna.
After an hour or two of this, we see another sign, take another wrong direction and end up, after several other mis routing, on what
must be one of the most scenic golf courses in
the world. It's so magnificent, that Aiden wants to do a round of Golf
right now. We
tell him that he'll have to wait till spring in Toronto, and we find
someone daft enough to take him out (ie not me). Are you reading
this Tom?
We relax with our shandies and pick off the occasional tick - this is the first ever attached to me!
After an hour or two, it's time to take the road back to the lodge. This is of course uphill. Pausing only to buy stuff, and chat, we thankfully seep ourselves in the shower upon our return. This place is magnificent - glorious views, cool, damp and fragrant sensations abound. A fire and some Chopin CD's polish off the evening before curries all round.
Early AM, and there is not a sound, but NOTHING! I have never heard Africa so quiet.
Unfortunately, not stopping in Mutare on the way here, we are nearly out of Zim cash. We have to head back down to Mutare, 30km
down the mountain and see where life takes us from here.
Distance travelled this entry: 140 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 140 Km
Friday, November 10th, Great Zimbabwe Ruins, Masvingo, Zimbabwe.
Hmmmm, this place smells of propaganda.
Monday, Nov 6th, and sadly we leave Ndundu Lodge.
We have a little cash left, so we take in the once magnificent Bvumba Botanical Gardens - it's a 10 minute walk from our lodge.
This was once a splendid garden with an amazing amount of well laid out and tended gardens, streams ponds etc. Sadly, now it's
pretty much a shrubbery that is nearly out of control, abutting onto a huge expanse of totally untamed, unmaintained, tropical jungle.
We walk through for about and hour. No one has been on the "paths" for
months. We all decide that this is not worth any effort, and
head back to the tea shack for tea and scones. I think we are the only ones that have been here for days, but as ever, friendly,
courteous and genuine service.
The Mozambican floods that were publicised earlier this year, also took it's tool up here - at least 500 Km away. Masses of trees were simply uprooted by the cyclone - February 22nd we're told. Hmmm, this sounds like a natural disaster project for Kayla.
We always leave more tips than we should, and occasionally hear the
locals tell us that we should not give as much. But it's difficult
seeing the hard times these people are facing. Unfortunately, we do not
have enough money to visit
Tony's exceedingly desirable
coffee shop again, so, thinking we will be back (no' 'fraid we did not),
we set off to "Hakuna Mutata".
This is a timeshare in the Bvumba, and we check out the possibilities
of staying for a short week. In Africa, you can have two "short"
weeks, Friday to Sunday, or Monday to Thursday, quite a good idea
actually. It's splendid view and elevation makes it an ideal
stopover for a few days. We talk to the manager, and he will see if it
can be organised.
Back down to Mutare.
This is quite a busy city. It's on the border with Mozambique, so it gets a lot of import/ export traffic.
First thing is cash.
Kayla and I check out the ForEx shops, and end up in one where there
is a European asking the teller for $US. I inform him that I
have some to change, he asks what rate and I say 60. This is a bit above
the 58 from Vic Falls, but well below the 70 he has to pay.
The clerk behind the counter hears me, and immediately bids up my asking
price to 63. Wow! The guy in front of me gets out his
calculator, "How much do you want to change?" etc....
The
clerk, now asks the guy I'm talking to if he has a letter to exchange
foreign currency... he admits he does not and hastily departs,
but the rate holds firm, and I get huge wads of Zim cash in my pocket.
Until we know what we are doing with the time share, we pass the time at the local wild life area. Looking at the run down little shack, and shell shocked dirt road on the way in, we expect little. Surprise, there are two white rhinos across the dam, piles of eland and other game. A most enjoyable few hours are passed till feeding time.
We chat to a couple who have travelled down from Nairobi. Seems the northern countries are expensive and not too safe these days.
Come 4:00PM, and the rhinos, and a spare elephant arrive for tea.
Photo ops. Aiden, the elephant and the rest of us get in on the act, and this act and this act.
Back in Mutare, and the time share cannot be organised. Off to "Drifters" about 20Km out of town.
Great place again, but it seems as if we are the only tourist there in weeks. The last entry in the guest book was 2 months ago.
Time for a few beers, and we order dinner. Aiden insists on "extra
extra crispy chips", and come dinner, that's exactly what we get.
Almost inedible, but totally what we asked for.
Now, all of you with weak stomachs can skip this next bit....
I ask for some vinegar for the chips (fries to you folks), and try to pour some on. It's in a little sauce type of bottle, but very little comes out. I take out the stopper thinking it's empty. Slurp! The vinegar comes out in a LUMP! Ugh! Barf! Gak! It still smells like vinegar, and working on the premise that vinegar does not go "bad", I scoop up the really mucousy bits, store them safely on another plate and dig in. Hmmmm, this goes quite well with a Zim Sauvignon Blanc. This is fine dining, Africa style.
I survive the night with no problems and wake up the next day - still alive.
Nov 7th, and back in Mutare, we get some e-mailing/ pix across the net till the speed becomes daft and we give up. Also get more malaria tabs - ours will run out too soon. Luckily we get away without needing a prescription. Helpful Zimfolk again.
Pausing only for a few more Zim $ - now I have two pockets bulging
with the stuff, and a wonderful chicken pita from Nando's, we
head off to Chimanimani. On the way there is a grating sound from the
front wheel that gets worse as we proceed. I take off the front
wheel. It looks like the brake shoes are stuck. I loosen them up as best
I can, and deciding to avoid the scenic detour to Chimanimani,
we proceed slowly to Chipinge, hoping to find a better garage there.
There is only one real accommodation option in town - the hotel has
long since lost any attraction to the few European visitors here,
this is Ali's Rest. We eventually find it late, and settle in. Seems to
be a lot of security guards around here.
There is only one option for food - the "club" It too has seen better days, but there is a strong contingent of farmers around. The local wildlife committee meets at the table next to us, Garth, a farmer, garage owner etc chats to us and invites us to stay at his place - nothing unusual here.
Once again, there are problems with squatters here - hot as in potentially violent today apparently. He tells us there was a confrontation just out of town.
We are made to feel really at home, and join the crown for a few beers. Garth invites us to see his Ostrich farm tomorrow.
We find out that there is no definite result to the US election
Wednesday, 8th, and we I try to find Garth at the garage. He's gone, so I tank up (I'm the last one allowed to - "empty" they tell the folks behind me), and we catch up with kids schoolwork, journals and shopping.
I book the van in for a brake check for tomorrow. We will be here a few more days yet. We shop for a spag bol dinner.
I eventually locate Garth, and we book up for a TV session at his place.
Up to his farm and we get the full tour of the Ostrich chicks, the breeding, weighing, incubating and hatching. I think the chicks look
like toilet brushes with a head.
After dinner - our first at home for a few days, watching TV at
Garths, it seems the good ole US culture is still shootin' and maimin'
all the bad guys with a vengeance.
A quiet day.
Thursday, and the van goes in for a fix. Seems that good old Toronto salt has taken it's toll, and the shoes need to be released. No problem, just more time.
We are packed and ready to go, but no
transport. By lunchtime, the van is still in dock, undergoing major
reconstructive surgery around a seized brake shoe. They eventually grind
off the offending bits, and having no spares, actually make
the spare bolts. Imagine that back home!
While this is going on, I've collar Garth, and we head out to a tea plantation for a guided tour. We do the entire trip of the tea - too boring for here, but, picking, shredding, slicing & dicing, drying, furnaces, sorting and a pile of other stuff till we end up with huge bags of the stuff. Fascinating and the kids love it.
On the return trip, we pass the farm that is being invaded, there is a group of people sitting under a tree. It looks like a schooling exercise, but apparently it's the resettlement committee planning it's next move. We pass and wave, they wave back.
There is also a lot of growing here - tobacco, coffee. We get the guided tour of the wonders of cultivated nature.
We visit a local farmers school, normal state schooling being somewhat basic here, there is a private school set up outside of the system. We meet Gideon, the headmaster. More chat about Zim, farmers and farming. I'd like to send the kids here for a term, it looks really well done.
The van is ready to roll, and we realise that we are here for another night, no problem, this is a great place to be stuck waiting for repairs.
Dine at the club again, - standard average, but welcome fare, and
we've missed Garth, a postcard of thanks will have to suffice.
Malesh.
Still no news on the US election, but there is a new item of a video showing South African police using illegal immigrants as live bait for training their attack dogs on the TV. Hmmm, racism is still well and truly alive in SA.
November 10th, and we are off.
This is the area where our friend Ricky worked 20++ years ago, and I'm determined to head out to find the coffee and wattle farm where I played, he worked, and eventually, he caught a few rounds of AK47 material. We head of South toward the Mozambique border to Mount Selinda hoping to notice something I can remember of the farm.
Last
time we only went to army/ mercenary safe points around here, now, we
head down a fairly bad road, toward the village. I have
no idea of where we lived, but we make Mt Selinda, take a pix for posterity, and return. Not one shot is fired at us, and after a few
more $Zim acquisitions, we tool off to Masvingo, home of the Great Zimbabwe ruins.
There is no more diesel in Chipinge, so we still need some more to be certain of reaching SA. On the route to the ruins, there is a garage, that actually has diesel! I'm now in the weird position to limit the amount I fill as I've got a large (25+ Litres) in the back seat giving the kids leg ache for the past 2 weeks.
At Masvingo, things are pretty sad. People will exchange their carvings for South African COINS!!! Oh GOD! This is heart
breaking! What a power hungry JERK this Mugabe creep is!
The tourist bureau is functioning, and informative. There is a park at the ruins that sounds perfect for us. On the way we stop at the mini supermarket. WOW! This is the best stocked shop we have seen since Zambia! Even foreign produce here. Lots of fuel.
We check into the ruins rondavels - 2 per hut. Nice enough, fairly
new too - everything works, but no kitchen facilities, even though
there is a braai outside. Looks like a poor design, but has a great view
overlooking the ruins.
There are 3 overland trucks here! WOW - there are other tourist in Zim.
As it's PM, we satisfy ourselves with a tour of the museum.
Propaganda everywhere. The displays are all only a month or so old.
Very poor quality - the English text is not even coherent in many
places, and is, to my jaundiced racist, ex Rhodesian backpacker
eyes, incredibly twisted toward the government (Surprise!). This stuff
does not match the version I got on a tour with the curator as
my personal guide 20+ years ago (Another Surprise).
Everything says
"Zimbabwe culture was the civilisation in central Africa from 1300 - 1800." fair enough, but it then goes onto equate Zimbabwe culture to Shona (Mugabe's tribal affiliation) such as
"Zimbabwe culture was the same as that still practised by the Shona
civilisation" It misses out the fact that historically, Zimbabwe
people and Shona people are different tribes. It also glosses over all
the not to be mentioned aspects of ancient African culture - the
tribes supplied most of the slaves for export and worked with the
slavers for profit. All in all, propaganda abounding. This must be
cadre central - it feels like it's a central staging area for "The Word
of the revolution" here.
We head to the café here, but it's passed on, only a curio shop that sells pop and bottled water. It'll do. Back and finally transfer the jerry can of diesel into it's rightful place.
In the evening, we walk to the hotel about 1 Km away. We have
shandies, and a wonderful meal for all under the stars as the full
moon rises over this tropical setting. The tree above us is absolutely
infested with what appears to be tiny nocturnal bee eaters or
humming birds.
Incredibly, even though this is an international hotel, with, possibly international clients, the cost of the meal is exactly the same as the club in Chipinge the previous night. We all toast our incredible trip through this startlingly beautiful and friendly country.
Wherever we go in Zim we feel that everyone is there just to help us.
It's an incredible feeling. There is absolutely zero paranoia,
worry or aggravation - even the squatters are civil. As we drive along,
without exception, N'debele, Shona, no difference, the kids
and adult on the road wave and shout greetings. NEVER asking for money
or being obnoxious - I cannot say that about any where
else we have EVER been. These people are simply wonderful, thoughtful,
intelligent and friendly: "refined" is how a local travel
magazine puts it, and it's true. They are also scrupulously honest. This
has spoilt us for our return to South Africa.
Whenever we talk to them, white, black brown - who cares, they are without exception, everyone wants the current leader removed, preferably by constitutional means, and a new approach to the current confrontation and divisions.
This is an incredible country to visit, and anyone who has a mind to vacation or even retire in a safe, happy and beautiful country, can do no better than here. Hurry down - there are bargains aplenty here, and your hard currency will be very welcome.
Distance travelled this entry: 740 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 640 Km
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| Ndundu Lodge. The secret lodge hidden in the Vumba |
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| "Tony's" Absolutely FABULOUS chocolate cake "Chocolate cake, covered in chocolate, soaked in whisky covered in chocolate" God! Another 5 pounds |
This is the Bvumba mountain range. It is a lump of high land just south of Mutare in central eastern Zim. It was very "hot" during the war, so I never got here back then.
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| I would not have done this last time I was in Zim |
"Excellent coffee, and some of the finest cakes in the world". They are not wrong - it's a magnificent taste treat. This alone identifies the Bvumba as having it's own entry here.
Yesterday, Sunday, we head here to the Bvumba via Mutare - it's only about 120Km.
We sadly left Ezulwinni, and pausing only to fill up again with Diesel and peaches from the local vendors once again as we pass through Juliasdale, we head South. The road here is pretty steep, and once at the top, we pass through ancient rain forests and reserves.
As we get here to Bvumbu Lodge early, - about 11:00AM,, we check in - it looks cozy & comfortable, and we take the upstairs family room.
Having an entire afternoon, we decide to go for a trek to Leopard Rock Hotel - another place devastated during the war. Having very little idea where it is etc, we simply follow "Path #4" and see where it takes us.
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| The Leopard Rock Hotel was pretty much a suicide trip last time I came to Zim |
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| Aiden want's to take up golf, just by looking at the course |
We relax with our shandies and pick off the occasional tick - this is the first ever attached to me!
After an hour or two, it's time to take the road back to the lodge. This is of course uphill. Pausing only to buy stuff, and chat, we thankfully seep ourselves in the shower upon our return. This place is magnificent - glorious views, cool, damp and fragrant sensations abound. A fire and some Chopin CD's polish off the evening before curries all round.
Early AM, and there is not a sound, but NOTHING! I have never heard Africa so quiet.
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| Part of the "grounds" As a club, it was, hmmmm, ok |
Distance travelled this entry: 140 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 140 Km
Friday, November 10th, Great Zimbabwe Ruins, Masvingo, Zimbabwe.
Hmmmm, this place smells of propaganda.
Monday, Nov 6th, and sadly we leave Ndundu Lodge.
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| Like everything else here, no tourists but the service somehow continues. Great cream tea here |
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| Just down from our lodge. Optimistic ladies selling their beautiful embroidered cotton |
The Mozambican floods that were publicised earlier this year, also took it's tool up here - at least 500 Km away. Masses of trees were simply uprooted by the cyclone - February 22nd we're told. Hmmm, this sounds like a natural disaster project for Kayla.
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| Eventually, Ilge stocks up with piles of Christmas goodies. Many happy ladies here |
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| Destuction of a different genesis Nature at its wildest |
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| Pretty tropical jungle here with emphasis on tropical, even at this altitude |
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| showers |
Back down to Mutare.
This is quite a busy city. It's on the border with Mozambique, so it gets a lot of import/ export traffic.
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| showers |
First thing is cash.
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| The Mutare game reserve. At least they are all somewhat safer here |
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| How long this horn will remain attached is anyone's guess |
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| showers |
Until we know what we are doing with the time share, we pass the time at the local wild life area. Looking at the run down little shack, and shell shocked dirt road on the way in, we expect little. Surprise, there are two white rhinos across the dam, piles of eland and other game. A most enjoyable few hours are passed till feeding time.
We chat to a couple who have travelled down from Nairobi. Seems the northern countries are expensive and not too safe these days.
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| Very docile Rhino's, but that's part of why there's so few of them |
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| showers |
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| showers |
Photo ops. Aiden, the elephant and the rest of us get in on the act, and this act and this act.
Back in Mutare, and the time share cannot be organised. Off to "Drifters" about 20Km out of town.
Great place again, but it seems as if we are the only tourist there in weeks. The last entry in the guest book was 2 months ago.
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| As ever, hardly anyone is interested in this place I think there was an admission fee, but doubt if it covered much of the costs |
Now, all of you with weak stomachs can skip this next bit....
I ask for some vinegar for the chips (fries to you folks), and try to pour some on. It's in a little sauce type of bottle, but very little comes out. I take out the stopper thinking it's empty. Slurp! The vinegar comes out in a LUMP! Ugh! Barf! Gak! It still smells like vinegar, and working on the premise that vinegar does not go "bad", I scoop up the really mucousy bits, store them safely on another plate and dig in. Hmmmm, this goes quite well with a Zim Sauvignon Blanc. This is fine dining, Africa style.
I survive the night with no problems and wake up the next day - still alive.
Nov 7th, and back in Mutare, we get some e-mailing/ pix across the net till the speed becomes daft and we give up. Also get more malaria tabs - ours will run out too soon. Luckily we get away without needing a prescription. Helpful Zimfolk again.
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| Obviously a very tame Elephant. Hopefully, it will reside here until very old age |
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| You don't get this sort of adventure in Ontario very often |
There is only one option for food - the "club" It too has seen better days, but there is a strong contingent of farmers around. The local wildlife committee meets at the table next to us, Garth, a farmer, garage owner etc chats to us and invites us to stay at his place - nothing unusual here.
Once again, there are problems with squatters here - hot as in potentially violent today apparently. He tells us there was a confrontation just out of town.
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| Garth, an Ostrich chicks. We all had a great time together |
We find out that there is no definite result to the US election
Wednesday, 8th, and we I try to find Garth at the garage. He's gone, so I tank up (I'm the last one allowed to - "empty" they tell the folks behind me), and we catch up with kids schoolwork, journals and shopping.
I book the van in for a brake check for tomorrow. We will be here a few more days yet. We shop for a spag bol dinner.
I eventually locate Garth, and we book up for a TV session at his place.
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| Our first trek around a tea factory Although I'd done a similar tour 25 years ago |
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| Like toilet brushes on legs |
A quiet day.
Thursday, and the van goes in for a fix. Seems that good old Toronto salt has taken it's toll, and the shoes need to be released. No problem, just more time.
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| Tea's raw materials. Green stuff and cheap labour |
While this is going on, I've collar Garth, and we head out to a tea plantation for a guided tour. We do the entire trip of the tea - too boring for here, but, picking, shredding, slicing & dicing, drying, furnaces, sorting and a pile of other stuff till we end up with huge bags of the stuff. Fascinating and the kids love it.
On the return trip, we pass the farm that is being invaded, there is a group of people sitting under a tree. It looks like a schooling exercise, but apparently it's the resettlement committee planning it's next move. We pass and wave, they wave back.
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| Search me. No idea where the hell I used to live around here |
We visit a local farmers school, normal state schooling being somewhat basic here, there is a private school set up outside of the system. We meet Gideon, the headmaster. More chat about Zim, farmers and farming. I'd like to send the kids here for a term, it looks really well done.
The van is ready to roll, and we realise that we are here for another night, no problem, this is a great place to be stuck waiting for repairs.
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| Fuel was always an issue, but never turned out to be a problem, but I had lots of $US |
Still no news on the US election, but there is a new item of a video showing South African police using illegal immigrants as live bait for training their attack dogs on the TV. Hmmm, racism is still well and truly alive in SA.
November 10th, and we are off.
This is the area where our friend Ricky worked 20++ years ago, and I'm determined to head out to find the coffee and wattle farm where I played, he worked, and eventually, he caught a few rounds of AK47 material. We head of South toward the Mozambique border to Mount Selinda hoping to notice something I can remember of the farm.
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| Sunrise at the Great Zimbabwe Ruins |
There is no more diesel in Chipinge, so we still need some more to be certain of reaching SA. On the route to the ruins, there is a garage, that actually has diesel! I'm now in the weird position to limit the amount I fill as I've got a large (25+ Litres) in the back seat giving the kids leg ache for the past 2 weeks.
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| For some reason, both kids were totally obnoxious today |
The tourist bureau is functioning, and informative. There is a park at the ruins that sounds perfect for us. On the way we stop at the mini supermarket. WOW! This is the best stocked shop we have seen since Zambia! Even foreign produce here. Lots of fuel.
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| And it went on and on |
There are 3 overland trucks here! WOW - there are other tourist in Zim.
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| Well, it's certainly a life times experienc to visit this place |
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| This is the citadel, you can see the enclosure containing the famous chimney structure in the distance |
"Zimbabwe culture was the civilisation in central Africa from 1300 - 1800." fair enough, but it then goes onto equate Zimbabwe culture to Shona (Mugabe's tribal affiliation) such as
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| The Great Zimbabwe enclosure |
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| And the centre of the attention Great Zimbabwe |
We head to the café here, but it's passed on, only a curio shop that sells pop and bottled water. It'll do. Back and finally transfer the jerry can of diesel into it's rightful place.
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| Inside the walls |
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| Once again, we have the entire place pretty much to ourselves, just one other couple here today |
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| And that's it, time to head south |
Incredibly, even though this is an international hotel, with, possibly international clients, the cost of the meal is exactly the same as the club in Chipinge the previous night. We all toast our incredible trip through this startlingly beautiful and friendly country.
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| Thirsty work. I hope the kids picked up something more than Hmmmmmph here |
Whenever we talk to them, white, black brown - who cares, they are without exception, everyone wants the current leader removed, preferably by constitutional means, and a new approach to the current confrontation and divisions.
This is an incredible country to visit, and anyone who has a mind to vacation or even retire in a safe, happy and beautiful country, can do no better than here. Hurry down - there are bargains aplenty here, and your hard currency will be very welcome.
Distance travelled this entry: 740 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 640 Km
Editors Note:
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
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