Finally, lions, leopard, rhino - big 5 stuff.
It seems like an age that we left Zim, but it was only 5 game packed days ago.
., we got up early, caught a few sunrise shots, and headed off (at
5:45AM) to the Zimbabwe ruins which open at 6:00. This way we hope to beat
the heat of the day, and avoid the other tourist (what a novel concept!).
The ruins are on the top of a kopjie - there's lots of them in this area. Why this
one, no one is sure.
There are several paths up and we take the medium difficulty as Kayla does not
take too well to these early hours. Sure enough, climbing seems to be a difficulty
for her today.
"At point M2, there are special signs of early habitation" and that's it.
We make it to the top and are sort of impressed - this is the most impressive
ancient monument in Africa south of the Equator after all. The closer look does
show that although very large, it's also fairly chaotic, with very little plan or
concept through out the site.
The blocks also vary in size, with not a straight line to be seen on any of the
walls, some ow which are 6 metres high.
There are some good views, and we see "The Great Enclosure" our huts and the van clearly from the top. The original manufacturers of this site must have been pretty damn skinny for some of these paths!
 |
The Great Enclosure in the distance
is where the tower resides |
Here's some more scale with out intrepid
travellers.
 |
Once again, out intrepid travellers
have the place entirely to ourselves |
 |
with the heat rising, by 11:00AM
We exit |
We do due diligence to the photo ops, and with the heat rising, by 11:00AM, we
are all trekking back for our pre departure showers.
The Beit Bridge road heads South back to SA. It's a hell of a way to Kruger Park,
our hoped for destination tonight. Fat chance!
We are also looking for our take away's of crafts, and stop in lots of places to
check out the local produce.
Once again, it's very sad at these stops. These people are so poor, and tourism is
so down that they will barter anything. We stop at one place, and we exchange
old T shirts, odds and sods for crafts - some very nice ones too! On top of this,
the prices they ask for the pieces are so low. We refuse to bargain with them at
these prices. The South Africans we meet at one of these places however, haggle
over everything.
 |
Kayla got worryingly ill so we stopped at a small hotel for the night
After breakfast, the manager of the hotel shows us his snake collection - about 20 deadly snakes in his room
He keeps them in tanks and oil drums in his room. Cobra's, Puff Adder, boomslang (all nasty!). There is a note by his bed that says "Craig, don't forget to lock up the snakes".
This is a hooded cobra, yes, very deadly
|
At one stop, we eventually get overwhelmed by the sheer number of supplicants
asking for anything from pens, to bra's, a plastic bag! to seeds for planting, to
toothpaste. These people are desperate even for cloths, let alone food. Aiden
exchanges a bag of chips for a carving! It's chaos - poor buggers, I feel so sorry
for them, but also feel that we have to escape.
A little further down the road, there is a single wooden craft store, and we get
some wonderful wooden carvings. We exchange our plastic fuel containers, T
shirts, camping tupperware containers, sugar salt - you name it. We take 4 large
carvings and stack them around the kids - somewhere inside the van are two
children!
 |
Beit Bridge, Zimbabwe side
The two camping chairs go for bowls
We spent about 2 hours here buying huge amounts of
lovely stuff. No, we only gave 2 away, everything else was ours |
After 4 hours, we have moved 100Km. We decide to stay at Runde River Lodge
for the night. This is still 180Km from the border!
Kayla is now fairly sick, what with early rising and lots of wandering around in
the sun, so we stick her in bed for the night at 5:00PM.
Aiden and I go to the bar, while Ilge nurtures.
There is a 21
st birthday party for some twins in the neighbourhood. The owner
tells us that instead of partying, the guests have been fighting a fire. Seems that
the invaders locally, set the farmers house alight earlier today. What recourse do
they have? "None" of course - silly me. Everyone is incredibly pragmatic about
it, and optimistic and confident enough to carry on regardless. These people are
incredible.
 |
We tended to concentrate on 2 or 3 sellers
Salad bowls and large carvings were our favourite
We finally offload just about everything imaginable for crafts. |
I finally meet an "IT" guy at the bar who has not only heard of Progress - the
database stuff I work with, but also sells some of the products too. We chat for a
long time. Maybe this trip will be deductible after all! :)
Food here is pretty good, and Aiden and I dine into the late hours. It's bloody hot
even at midnight, but we all get a good kip.
 |
There was about 100 metres of vendors
Once again, no competition from other buyers
A Polaroid camera (with no film) was exchanged
for a beautiful carving |
Sunday
November 12th, and Kayla is cured when she finally wakes up after 15
hours sleeping. After breakfast, the manager of the hotel shows us his snake
collection - he keeps them in tanks and oil drums in his room. Cobra's, Puff
Adder, boomslang (all nasty!). There is a note by his bed that says "Craig, don't
forget to lock up the snakes".
Another day on the crafts trail, there is nothing on the road down to the border
and we hope and pray that there will be something at Beit Bridge.
Luckily, there is a huge one, and we take about 3 hours to go over everything.
Now it's time to off load all our bits.
 |
At one stop, we eventually get overwhelmed by the sheer number of supplicants. Finally, a free for all of our no longer essential trip bits
|
The two camping chairs go for bowls and
carvings (they also get some cash as well) and we finally offload just about
everything imaginable for crafts. Toothbrushes, more Tupperware containers,
bags, any clothes, a Polaroid camera (with no film) was exchanged for a
beautiful carving. Pens, pencils crayons and drawing paper - absolutely anything
will be exchanged (except one of my old sweat shirts Aiden touted for an hour
with no takers).
 |
Kruger Park, apre la deluge
Massive destruction from the storm
a few months back |
Once again, totally honest and friendly banter. Totally amazing
people.
Finally, we are back across the border - "red alert" as I call it, lock doors, close
windows and break out the cell phone - I charged it last night.
Being Sunday, as is usual, we have a huge distance to travel. Its at least 250Km
from here to the park, and we have some admin stuff to do too. We got through
just about all of our Rands (and Botswana Pula) in Zim on the crafts stuff, so we
are too short of cash just to run. Luckily, we see a Standard Bank auto machine
in Messina - these machine have a much higher limit than the rest, so if you are
brave and willing to carry (gulp!) $C500.00 around with you, then this is where
you get it. (Most other banks only allow $C200.00 per withdrawal).
 |
But nature returns to normal
We stop at Shingwezi for shakes and snacks.
Kruger is not my favourite game park,
but you do feel safe here |
So, gas up,
and get the phone activated again - you need to keep pumping money into them
to keep it going) and we head back to the land of hijacking, murder rape etc
etc....... 100Km south, is our old stomping ground of Louis Tritchard - we were here four
months ago. We stock up with Kentucky fried chicken (Yeugh, but even I ate
some), fruit, veg a Sunday Jo'burg paper and our regular favourite, not seen for
months, Greek Yogurt, and head out.
The park closes at 6:00/ 6:30. It's still a long way, plus it's through a homeland
with miscellaneous animals and not so miscellaneous potholes and robots (traffic
lights) along the way.
 |
We pass through the tropic again,
this time heading south |
Somehow we do the trip in record time, using the cell
phone to book ahead, and arrive at Punta Maria about 6:25: 5 minutes before the
gates close.
There is usually not much game around here, so it's usually pretty empty - sure
enough, there are only 4 cabins in use.
Monday, Nov 13th, and we head off to Mopani. En route, we stop at Shingwezi
for shakes and snacks. We instantly know we are no longer in Zim. The service
is slow, surly and very off hand. It seems that the caricatures of SA that I hoped
would be forgotten are still here, and are quite factual, rather than my
imaginings.
 |
Check out the current river level,
with the flood level.
|
There is a big display of the flood and the damage caused at this camp. Kayla is
eventually convince to take some notes. Check out the current river level, with
the flood level.
As we head south, we pass through the Tropic of Capricorn - for the last time
overland. There is also more signs of the flood damage here.
At Mopani, we get a splendid rondavel, with a great view. Time for a laundry
catch up and a swim. It's incredibly hot and humid - even the pool seems an
extension of the heat. I get through to Mike of Mike and Kerry, and ask them if
we can still stay in Durban - everything is A-OK. Good - now we can have a
base to depart from, something we will need.
 |
You can see the level of the river rise
in all the flotsam way up in the trees
|
The night drive is pretty disappointing - the ranger seems to be long on
information, but short on spotting - I think she is driving too fast.
There has been a storm brewing all afternoon, and the rain and lightning is
concentrated over the mountains which are the Mozambican border. As the light
fades, and we switch on our high powered flashlights, the Spielberg special
effects department provide an amazing spectacle of sound, light and shapes in the
sky. Plus, thanks to (so we are told)
 |
There is also more signs of the flood damage here.
Oliphants heading for Lower Sabie |
Mozambicans crossing the park illegally,
there is a huge fire which is out of control a few kilometres ahead of us. Pretty
spectacular - the drive was worth it just for these effects, but very few animals. I
spot a serval, and that's about the highlight of the night.
 |
| The natives return to normal |
 |
And the raptors return to a hard days work
without carrion around |
In the park, once again, we fell (thankfully) cut off from the wider world of
South Africa. The paper we got is mainly pap - strange when you consider Zims
press, but horror stories of HIV/ AIDS are splashed across the "life" section. Odd
eh? The government is in denial here - even after the AIDS conference in July.
This attitude will eventually devastate - this country.
Tuesday, south via Letaba (stop in here for great pies folks) to Oliphants camp.
 |
Standard issue Waterbuck.
A regular game park resident |
On the way, we meet a Zimbabwe couple who we invite to take our stock of
Polaroid film back to the guy who swapped the camera for the carving. We get
the film to this guy, the guy gets the film, and the couple can take a carving in
exchange for the film - everyone wins!
Up here on a high ridge, we overlook a wide fast flowing (Sabie) river. There are
a few hippo playing, but not much else can be seen.
 |
Up well before dawn on Aidens birthday,.
A lion pride in the headlights |
The night drive is much more informative and successful. Just before dark,
suddenly the woman in front of me literally SCREAMS "LEOPARD". Needless
to say, the leopard high tails it out of vision, and said woman is very
embarrassed. It turns out to be the best night drive we have been on to date, lots
of stuff all through the evening, including (I'm told) a side striped jackal - very
rare here.
We leave Oliphants heading for Lower Sabie.
 |
| Plus hyenas |
Not much action on the way.
Bearing in mind the state of the tyres, I am trying to drive on tar - probably
missing untold lions, tigers and leopards. The bridge here is still destroyed, and
it's more of a barrage than a bridge. At the camp, it's tourist city meltdown. We
find they had a fire recently, and there is no room at the inn. So, down to
Crocodile Bridge. Such a homely little camp, which is also fairly full. We get a
room and do some overseas calls. No luck with a time share for France, let alone
Paris!
 |
A more civilised time,
just before we head back for breakfast |
The night drive is fully booked, there is however, plenty of room on the morning
drive - we leave at 4:00AM! As there is no restaurant here, and we are no longer
into self catering, we dine outside of the park. The service is excellent but the
food is pretty well the worst since Drifters - we all hate it.
November 16th - Aiden's birthday, thanks to those who remembered it and
e-mailed him. It can be pretty lonely here on a birthday with just the same 3
people you have been stuck with for 4++ months you know.
 |
| They can relax after their breakfast, I assume |
Somehow, Aiden &
Kayla are raring to go at 3:45AM!!!?? Shock Horror! It's still an hour before
DAWN! Our guide tells us we are the first to make it on time for weeks, usually
he has to get them out of bed himself.
I'm feeling pretty tired, but we do see FINALLY!! Lions in the road! Plus
hyenas. We also encounter an adolescent elephant bull who makes a show of
charging us. Quite invigorating. We give Aiden his birthday goody - a Swiss
Army knife - there is not much available in these camps.
 |
| Our final big game before European civilisation |
At 7:45 we are back, and I snooze for an hour before we head off to here.
 |
Well, that's it for the wild side of Africa
Well, as far as wild animals are concerned |
On the way, yet more lion - skinny rancid ones, but they will do. At the camp,
we have to take a "family" hut as we are four. It's probably the most expensive
place we've ever stayed in $C120.00. It is however very nice, and a great place
for a farewell braaing session, (we don't) Our evening game drive also provides,
yes, more lions, (twice) black rhino and elephant. All in all, including our count
or 19 lion today, Aiden is quite happy with his birthday.
We return and, pausing only to identify two baby bats, stuck to our overnight
bag, we just collapse - it's been a long day again and we are not even interested
in eating.
Distance travelled this entry: 930 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 930 Km
Wednesday, November 22nd,
Spy Road, Pine Town, South Africa
Our
newly found friends, Mike & Kerry who foolishly invited us to stay
here when we met them back in August, have supplied us
with a perfect departure pad, place to stay, shop and pack our hard
travelled goods and equipment.
We arrived here on Sunday afternoon, making the 420 Km hike from Swaziland to here by 3:00PM.
 |
We didn't give up tracking this one
until he/ she sauntered into the bush |
Our flight back to UK is confirmed for Saturday 25
th. Nov - 3 weeks earlier than our original date, for which S.A.A. demanded an
additional $C700.00 from us (this "penalty", was written on the tickets, but it's still $C700.00!)
Where have we been since our Kruger departure?
Well, firstly, as we were leaving the park, last
Friday, 17th, what do we spot, but a leopard, taking his time to cross the road. We
tracked him just off the road for about 20 - 30 minutes. Hey, it seems that you can have enough even of leopards!
 |
Somehow, we were the first to spot this one
There were at least 20 / 30 vehicles behind
when we gave up |
The park is only about 50 Km from Swaziland, and we exit out, grab some cash from the ATM, and set out. I was hoping that the
atmosphere would be somewhat less than I remembered it from a few months back, but no, antipathy dulls those surrounding the
bank machine, blank and aggressive stares permeate the town. I pocket the cash and get out.
On the way, I'm stopped by a police check point. I have no license
disk (mandatory for SA), so I'm pulled over. No big deal, once
they know that it's an import, and we are on our way again. With so much
firepower here, I'll be glad to get to the relative safety of
Swazi.
The border is again a breeze, and we pay $C1.00 for our Swazi road tax. Customs actually asks us about what we are bringing with
us - this is a first of the trip!
 |
| Yes, more examples of the price nature exacts |
The road to Mbabane goes across two mountain ranges, and the cruiser makes a meal of both. It takes us about an hour to do 30 Km,
but by 2:00PM, we are in Mbabane, checking out the Pizza's and milk shakes.
This is where I should have a refresh of my Economists at Post
Restante, but good old Swazi know how, decides it's not to be - not
yet anyway. Oh SHIT!
 |
The road to Mbabane goes across two mountain ranges
Swaziland is not exactly a centre of a tourist paradise |
There is a good e-mail hut here, and we clack away for an hour or so
before we head out to Mlilwane Game Sanctuary, about 10 Km away.
It's part/ affiliate of WWF so we assume that it's fairly legit. Once
there, it looks like it was based on principles and good
management once, but is now a bit degraded. I follow a track just
outside our log cabin into the dense woods, only to come to a small
valley where all the plastic, cans and other detritus of people staying,
has been dumped over the edge awaiting the rains to wash it
past the park border and out of there concern. (If even that).
The main camp and restaurant is packed with Germans and a few
Flemings (Dutch/ Flemish is a very close relative of Afrikaans).
The service is terrible, and the food worse. The couple next to us tell
us that absolutely everything they got, was not what they had
ordered. The camp is run down and has the African look about it - no or
very low maintenance, piles of junk lying around, areas
cleared of trees/ shrub just left with scattered oil drums spread
around, slowly rusting.
 |
What turns out to be our last
(very wet) night in Swaziland |
However, the staff put on a display of traditional Swazi dancing, and
this is very good. It starts to rain, and we head back to the
cabin, 9 Km away. As it's dirt tracks, I actually put on the 4 x 4 drive
to get back!
Come morning,
Saturday 18th and we head back to Mbabane to see (Ha! Fat Chance!) If my Post Restante has arrived) - of course
not, so after a breakfast, we depart for the rest of the trip across Swazi. (Editors Note: The parcel DID actually arrive that day, but the clerk just wasn't bothered to check. It was sent back eventually via surface mail, and I got it in August 2001)
 |
This is one of my favourite shots of the trip, and probably all time
By 1:00PM, we are at a game park/ traditional village at Nkolo. They have lion cubs here, and we all get dirty playing with them |
It's only about 250Km from top to bottom along this road, not a big
country. The Swazi's seem to be very relaxed, Mbabane is truly
multi everything, there are young men in traditional kikoi draped garb,
rubbing shoulders with a multiracial group of trendy teens in
the middle of a smart downtown mall. Everything appears to be very
relaxed and accepting here. Friendly smiling people always
around - reminds me of Zim. The local paper has stories about strikes
and how the King (yes, still a monarchy here), deals with it:
pretty much along the lines of Ivan the Terrible, with a bit of
socialisation thrown it to leaven the potential bloodbath.
 |
"We're tough" we tell the manager
(but as it turns out, not waterproof)
and are all up before dawn, |
By 1:00PM, we are at a game park/ traditional village at Nkolo, about 35 KM from the SA border. Being Saturday, and this is not
Zim, there is no room. They have lion cubs here, and we all get dirty playing with them. Aiden gets a bite on his chest (no pix as he
refused the publicity), and we retire for a tea/ coffee as the rain starts again.
One option we have, is to stay in the traditional village huts. The
manager is leery of the weather as they may leak in the rain. "We're
tough" we tell her (but as it turns out, not waterproof). Looks good on
paper, and we retire to the bar/ restaurant for a bottle of wine
and a braai dinner.
It starts to rain, complete with the electrics of a thunderstorm.
There is a Dutch couple, and a South African family here. We all chat
about our travels. Just to set us at our ease, we are once again
regaled with truly horrific stories of travelling in SA by the SA folks.
We have not heard of this apocryphal violence for months, and
we realise that we have done full circle and, even if this is very over
the top, we should be extremely careful when travelling in SA
again.
By
9:00PM, it's been pouring for 4 hours, and we get back to the "bee
hive" rondavels and into our beds, literally, just as the straw
roofs start to allow the rain through. We all have a damp night, and are
all up before dawn, such as it is, and trying to dry out in the
coffee shop.
 |
Absolutely no doubt about it. We are totally soaked in the huts
We have spent the night trying to avoid the dripping from the roof
We didn't |
Not very easy, so we load up the van in rain that is still pouring down without stop, and turn south for our last leap. By 7:05AM we
are at the border which has just opened, and pass back into SA.
 |
Brighter days.
At Mike and Kerry's place near Durban
It's both wonderful and really sad to be here |
Rain, rain rain. It goes on all day. There is an incredibly long
piece of road that has nothing on it between the border and anything
more than an African village. The rivers we go over look as if it's been
raining for weeks: they are very high and fast. There is
nothing but nothing on the road (a main highway), and we need two pee
stops on the way - this in a veritable deluge. It is VERY
remote here, and travelling at 40KMPH up some of the hills, I have
visions of highjackers leaping out of the rocks. As if reading my
thoughts, the missus says "well at least the hijackers won't be out
today"...... Seems that she's right.
After about 300+ Km, we finally turn off into a small town that boast
a restaurant. Water drips through the roof, but we can sit down
to a view and eat in some form of comfort. With a newspaper and our cell
phone, we pass a couple of hours in relative comfort.
On leaving, I get through to Kerry, and no problem, we are off to
Pinetown to conclude our trip, not as lots of people call it "of a
lifetime", but simply "for this year".
 |
We take advantage of the pool, food and
sunshine when it eventually arrives |
It's both wonderful and really sad to be here. It's great to have a location to decamp (totally), re organise, repack and rethink, but also
sad inasmuch as this is it. Africa, at least the adventure, is now OFFICIALLY over. Kerry & Mike, plus the dogs, Pete, Sally,
William, Charles and Scotty are all great hosts and hostesses and we take advantage of the pool, food and sunshine when it
eventually arrives.
 |
Finally, a full itemisation of our swag, minus all the bits we have given away or exchanged
The Beast is due down at the docks and we are due at the airport |
We are re booked to fly out
Saturday 25th to London arriving at some unknown hour in the AM at Heathrow, from there to France to
(maybe) catch up with the kids lingual directions, currently missing.
God, it's been fun. We all have lots of things that we are looking
forward to once we get back to Canada, but we all have wonderful
memories of Africa and the wonderful people we have met and the
fantastic things we have done, seen and experience etc etc here.
Hey all you readers out there, in closing our African diary I have only one thing to say:
"Don't dream it, be it"
Richard O'Brien (Rocky Horror)
Watch for our "Travels To Europe" and Comparative Countries of Souther Africa Supplements available closer to Christmas.
Distance travelled this entry: 810 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 850 Km
Total distance travelled on trip: +/- 18,000Km,
Total maintenance on trip: 4 services, 2 tyres, 3 fuel filters,
occasional nuts, bolts oil, brake fluid and grease. Bits of pipe for 4 x
4
and brakes. Multiple fuel bleeding - I'm down to 75 seconds for a fuel
bleed, and resume now! Not a bad tally for a total techo dick
head.
Approx 30 photo films, 15 video tapes.
We also of course, have many new friends, a total multiplicity of
adventures and beautiful, breathtaking and tight spots to recall at
our leisure. A far better understanding of southern African cultures,
and a veritable mass of stories and times to relive with the kids.
Addendum to travels: March 2001
Message Begins:
As we sit here watching our videos from last year, the Canadian winter starts to make it's presence felt and the clocks retreat, has anyone ever told you just how much fun it can be to take 6 months off and go to Africa?
Yes, I probably have.
But, for all of you wannabe slackers and adrenalin pumping potential tourists of unconventional mode, here is something to ignore or act upon at your peril.
Following our 101% successful trip to the dark continent C2000 (we lost a pair of sandals and a gas tank cap), we are intending to go again, and are mentioning this in case anyone else is daft enough to want to join us.
The half a spare seat in the Cruiser has already been taken by one small old bag with one small old bag, so this would be at your leisure, in your own vehicle.
We've done it once, so know at least some of the ropes and how to be lucky enough to avoid the statistics of travelling in Southern Africa. However, it's all a crap shoot, so do not think it will be akin to a walk in High Park.
We intend to travel for 3 months with the kids of course, from Durban to Nairobi - maybe back again - if you have to find out where these cities are, you may not want to go. En route, we will do some of SA (mainly Kruger - great game park), Swaziland (mainly transit), Zimbabwe (great everything and Vic Falls), Zambia (mainly transit), Malawi (great swimming), Tanzania - mainly Pemba/ Zanzibar (climb Mt Kili), then onto Kenya and hang out for a week or two in Samburu, Maasi Mara etc.
We will be leaving probably last week in June 2003, returning about school time.
This is the time to get your truck if you want to partake, not an adventure of a lifetime, just another adventure.
Please note: we know that some parts of Africa may not be a favourable place to be sometimes - you may wish to talk to a lifestyle guidance councillors and/ or your life insurance agent before even thinking about this. As the saying goes, we had a truly fantastic time last year, your mileage, and indeed ours next time, may vary.
For a full run down of our last trip, web into as below.
And remember - all you really need is money.
(Ed, June 14th 2025, AND LUCK!)
Editors Note:
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
 |
Zimbabwe Ruins
I camped here in 1977 |
 |
This was just a totally empty camp ground
Occasionally, the Guerrilla's (Shhh, "Freedom Fighters")
would drop in for a machine gun foray |
 |
| Now it's fir for families |
 |
| We are the only tourists here |
 |
When I arrived in 1977, the (white) manager
took me around for a personal tour |
 |
| Which was infinitely more informative |
 |
| Back then I was totally bereft, now I have a 4 x 4 |
 |
| And a growing family to support |
 |
| I was told that this would be a fantastic experience |
 |
| For the kids (I had a great time) |
 |
| But 25 years later, |
 |
| And it doesn't seem to have left much in the way |
 |
| Of awe or a lust to find out more than |
 |
| their contemporaries |
 |
| At least I'm fairly certain that both |
 |
| Aiden and Kayla gain at least and alternate view of the possibilities of life |
 |
| South Africa. Dung Beetle |
 |
| Because our guide couldn't spot anything bigger |
 |
| Well, we had all seen these efore |
 |
| And a very early start on Aidens 13th birthday |
 |
| In Kruger park |
 |
| And this guy didn't like being disturbed |
 |
| Luckily, out 4 x 4 was faster than him |
 |
| The day dawns as our tour ends |
 |
| And our Kruger park residency |
 |
| Winds down with our last night drive |
 |
| As we head towards the gate at Crocodile River |
 |
| I've never seen a leopard as nonchalant as this one |
 |
| We head to Mbabane, Swaziland, now |
 |
Eswatini. Traditional dancing
which looked like Zulu culture |
 |
| Which is (still) the last vestige of ancient |
 |
| Absolute monarchy |
 |
| The King selects a new virgin every year for his Hareem |
 |
| There's a lot of competition, but not many virgins |
 |
We depart Mbabane,
without my tranche of Economists |
 |
| A different kind of petting zoo |
 |
| No, they are not just large domestic cats |
 |
These, contrary to common understandings, these are not pussy cats
Aiden still has the scar from this attack |
 |
We all thought it was hilarious,
it probably wasn't for Aiden |
 |
| Just on the not to dangerous side of very dangerous |
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