Route: Hobas Camp Site - Okaukuejo, Namibia
Dust, more dust and flats to go, and stayOnce again, I sit at the controls of this wonderful machine, and this time look up to view the Southern Atlantic, which is almost literally, sloshing at our door.
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| On the road with the family, cross country to Lüderitz Not exactly Virginia Beach, but exactly what the cruiser is designed for |
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| Not exactly Virginia Beach |
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| Dorpie, Namibian style Aus just this side of nowhere. Great pies! |
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| The beginnings of the Namib. aka, "nowhere" Garub Desert Horses Wild horses survive here, somehow Relics from a long past German colony |
We were well enough prepared that it was quite an adventure. All we were missing was a table light, but that was minor. The stars shone like they can only do in the desert.
The road from Hobas was dusty, flat, occasionally rutted, and once, had a real river flowing across our paths. We flew along it at 90/ 100 KPM. Travelling early does give you a bit of a leg up on the day, but the bottom line is, will you make it to the other end? The road, as you may expect, is pretty empty, and very good, once again, speeds of 100Kph were possible all the way.
After a hike and a half from Hobas (400Km.), luckily, mostly (300Km) on tarred road, 125 of them through the Namib Desert, any place with more than 1000 hectares of sand and two buildings was a welcome sight.
On the way here, we stopped at Aus, a tiny outpost right next to the desert, and the very last spot for anything before we get here. Immediately after Aus, we came over the rise, and the Namib Desert stretches, seemingly vast and never ending before us. Onward....
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| There's no obvious source of water around Must be something in the desert for sustenance |
Very impressive,
Very Imposing
and
VERY INTIMIDATING.
How the hell did anyone ever even want to get across this place before
there was a road here? (Or now for that matter?).
Well, of course, the answer was diamonds, masses of
them. Just where the desert starts, so does the Sperrgebiet - the Prohibited area immediately south of
the tarred road, no entry, no way, no questions asked or answers given. Very high stakes property here.
Over 90% of Namibia's taxes come from de Beers who run this operation here. Lots of diamonds, far, far more sand though
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| We stop at the feral horses viewing area for a quick self congratulatory family shot. Enough desert for Africa, as us old Africa hands would say |
A short distance into the Namib, there is a sign for Feral Desert horses. These horses are a left over from (various stories) of stranded horses from early in the 20th Century, whatever the case, there is a hide where you can view, as we did, 30 - 40 (out of an estimated 145) at the bore hole, all looking remarkable fit, considering they must live on sand.
We stop for a viewing and a quick self congratulatory family shot.
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| And if you do, you will be shot and arrested in that order |
This is the end of the line. About as far as you can get without taking a swim. We look out over the bay at the town Lonely Planet describes as "a surreal colonial relic huddling against the barren windswept Namib Desert coast".
All true, especially the bits about "a surreal colonial relic huddling against the barren windswept Namib Desert coast"...... Of all things, its only about 20C here in the middle of the day - must be the Southern Atlantic winds whipping past this cottage, cemented into the rocks. It is still early spring, and the Atlantic is quite chilly out there!
There are about 100Km of 4 x
4 tracks around the town, which incidentally, is also totally surrounded by Sperrgebiet land
restrictions, and has an uncanny resemblance to yet more desert.
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| Our view: the lower end of a peninsula called Shark Island, at Lüderitz. |
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| Yep, that's what it says: "Diamond Coast Recreational Area". Not that there's much recreation to be had here |
So, apart from an 800Km trip to
Windhoek, a 400 Km trip to Fish River or other similar dusty treks, there is not much in the way of
what you, I, or the kids would consider "Fun".
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| On our early morning tour, we did stop off at "Diaz Point" courtesy of one Snr Diaz. C1488 AKA "The Lüderitz Pleasure Park" Well, you should see the alternatives |
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| This, I'm informed, is a seal colony |
By the way, Namibia has one of the lowest densities of population and one of the highest reproductive
rates of anywhere on earth (not to mention HIV infection rates). Hey kids, don't try this at home!
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| This is the local beauty spot, as a tourist boat bobs past the seals on the island |
Slightly
around the bay, we come to an old Norwegian (C1910) whaling station, and a colony of Jack Ass
penguins.
On the way past, we notice the sign to the local golf club (!).
Back in town, it's the annual carnival - lots of noise, and 5 floats, 1 empty truck, 3 backies and a song & dance troupe. It was over in about 10 minutes - no doubt everyone had a great time.
Back in town, it's the annual carnival - lots of noise, and 5 floats, 1 empty truck, 3 backies and a song & dance troupe. It was over in about 10 minutes - no doubt everyone had a great time.
I finally changed some travellers cheques at the local branch. Terrible rate - give me an ATM any day.
There's an internet cafe here, incredible speeds, (probably courtesy of DeBeers) so we communicate and sort of catch up
It's about 9AM in Toronto, so I log into one of my customer's through a web portal, make a fake order and chat with Bev at Timax via the "notes" section of a courier order.
We have a fun time exchanging fun lines and generally have a conversation
Everything at this customer at least, is running perfectly
At a local bookstore in town, I find a kind of text book about the weather. I set out to teach the kids how the weather works
Everything shop wise shuts at 1:00 PM, so we are out of luck for the other high lights of the town. Call for details.
Being effectively a billion miles from anywhere, you might expect this place to have what I call an "island" mentality - whereby, it's pretty safe because no one can steal anything and use it as everyone would know about it. Sadly, this does not appear to be the case, and once again, the security guy at the restaurant last night, had a night stick and kept a good eye on our vehicle.
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| Lüderitz community and play centre. The local golf club |
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| Gin n Tonics at sunset, Lüderitz style |
Tomorrow, we begin yet more Serious Travels into the heart of the Namib to visit Sossusvlei. Luckily
the machine has been wonderful with only a few hesitant beats at start up, then we can travel all day at
cruising speed.
I have now developed my daily ritual which is approaching religious fervour:
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| Yep, even hundreds of kilometres away from anywhere. you still need heavy duty security |
Daily Checks: Check under the machine for any slime, check tyres for inflation levels, check roof box for rigidity etc, check oil and water level, top up as necessary (this is from a compugeek remember!). So far it has worked very well.
We have not been robbed, or in any other way inconvenienced, so we are quite content.
Namibia feels a lot safer than just about everywhere in South Africa, so it's just us versus the world, natural and otherwise
Wish us luck!
Distance travelled this entry: 440 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 400 Km
Saturday, September 9th, Desert Rose Time Share, Henties Bay, Western Namibia
What a hectic dirty, dusty, hot, dusty, extensive, dirty, travelling week!
At the crack of dawn last Sunday (September 3rd), we were packing to depart Lüderitz on our way to Sussusvlei, about (as it turned out) 550Km away. We pause, only for a quick shot of Kolpmanskop, the old diamond mining ghost town just 10K outside Lüderitz.
The desert air was moist, in fact it rained most of the way across - about 125 Km.
No desert horses this time through, we move on. Just pass the hide we spot a couple, and also the local version of a picnic site. In this area of the world, with no pollutants to cover the scents of the world, you actually smell a gas vehicle after it passes! It stinks. Incredible to think of all those millions of vehicles doing the same back home, and you hardly notice the total stench of it.
Of
course, this ability to smell everything around is not always a good
thing in a vehicle on a long trip with two kids in the back...
(Who was that?)
Once again, we stopped off at Aus for a double fill up - Diesel (which is available everywhere and so far has not been any problem), and pies.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 400 Km
Saturday, September 9th, Desert Rose Time Share, Henties Bay, Western Namibia
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| A social weavers nest, typically weighing up to a tonne |
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| On the threshold of being shot, arrested etc Kolpmanskop, the old diamond mining ghost town just 10K outside Lüderitz still in the Speirgebeit |
At the crack of dawn last Sunday (September 3rd), we were packing to depart Lüderitz on our way to Sussusvlei, about (as it turned out) 550Km away. We pause, only for a quick shot of Kolpmanskop, the old diamond mining ghost town just 10K outside Lüderitz.
The desert air was moist, in fact it rained most of the way across - about 125 Km.
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| The local version of a Namibian Desert picnic site near the Garub Feral Horses lookout |
No desert horses this time through, we move on. Just pass the hide we spot a couple, and also the local version of a picnic site. In this area of the world, with no pollutants to cover the scents of the world, you actually smell a gas vehicle after it passes! It stinks. Incredible to think of all those millions of vehicles doing the same back home, and you hardly notice the total stench of it.
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| Aiden bravely modelling a social weavers nest, maybe housing 100's of them |
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| And this is one of the weaver birds that built it |
Once again, we stopped off at Aus for a double fill up - Diesel (which is available everywhere and so far has not been any problem), and pies.
Our
host at the "One Stop" café, garage, hotel and general store, tells us
that the remaining distance is 400Km. It's only 8:30AM, so we
are ready for the hack through the vastness.
On the way, we stop behind a tourist 12 seater bus who's contents are
studying a huge lump of hay in a tree. We find out that it is a
social weavers nest, maybe housing 100's of them. We would have ignored it if there was no one there.
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| Certainly the great outdoors, undisturbed by almost anybody |
The driver tells us we have missed our turn off (probably in the dust cloud), but
there is another one 10Km ahead. We thank her and head off.
Three Km after our turn off, we have our first flat.
In my panic, I try to fix it while it is still on. I make a terrible attempt at it.
Eventually. I get underneath and change the tyres, thanking Jimmy that it was a good job he did, and it's still inflated (thanks Jimmy!)
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| Later that day. A blow out and I do a panic fix. Sigh. Actually, and specifically NOT fixed |
140Km up the road, there is another outpost. I hold my breath, and check the tires every 20 - 30 Km for inflation. Believe me, traveling through the outer reaches of nowhere, on a stone infested road where we only see 2 vehicles the rest of the day, with no spare tyre, can be more of a stress than most Monday morning 5:30AM pages I've had.
Ended the afternoon in Maltahohe, a small friendly and very welcoming dorpie
My attempts to fix the tyre in situ was not a great success, but it gets us to the next outpost purporting to have a garage.
Well, it does, but apparently not on Sundays.
The locals went to great lengths to get the tyre fixed - even getting the owner out of his lounge chair to open up the garage to fix it. It was a pretty bad rip and they used some hi tech (yes!) Inner puncture kit - far beyond me at the side of the road.
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| We are off to the REAL desert again, heading to Sesriem/ Sossusvlei As Bilbo would say, and the road goes ever on |
The locals went to great lengths to get the tyre fixed - even getting the owner out of his lounge chair to open up the garage to fix it. It was a pretty bad rip and they used some hi tech (yes!) Inner puncture kit - far beyond me at the side of the road.
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| Sesriem camping ground. Backdrop of ongoing Gemsbok |
Seems that the last guy to fix this tyre (in
Cradock - yes the same one!) did not do a great job, and the slow
leak deflated the tyre enough to allow the stones to slice it up.
(Although I think my panicked response of trying to repair it "in situ" may have had something to do with the mess)
At 4:00PM, we decided to stay at the local hotel, which has consistently won the "Best Hotel in Namibia" award for many years.
After a shower, pot roast of Kudu was my selection for the evening
meal - hmmmm - delicious, highly recommended, and several
pints of local Namibian draught, the world and it's potential for
vicarious unlimited potential of adversities, calmed down again.
Even after the various tyre fixes that did or did not take place, we still clocked - 350Km out of Luderitz - not bad for the day.
Tuesday, September 4th, Our 3rd. Month dawns bright and clear (yes again - we have not had one bad day of weather yet!), and after a leisurely
German flavoured breakfast (lots of old German families from old, old old colonial time before the wars), we are off to the REAL
desert again.
(Although I think my panicked response of trying to repair it "in situ" may have had something to do with the mess)
At 4:00PM, we decided to stay at the local hotel, which has consistently won the "Best Hotel in Namibia" award for many years.
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| The road to Sossusvlei |
Even after the various tyre fixes that did or did not take place, we still clocked - 350Km out of Luderitz - not bad for the day.
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| On the way back from a 4 x 4 failure (how appallingly embarrassing!) to get to Sossusvlei |
On the way, we see (yes you guessed it) more desert, some Gemsbok
(also called Oryx), various antelope and ostrich, all living off
of practically nothing out here in one of the driest places in the world
(Namib rainfall between 2 and 12 millimetres per year).
Sesriem is the camp just outside the Namib park where there are 26
camp sites (not having reserved, we got #26 - the last one), and,
of all things a Movenpick hotel - yes, that's what I said! We set up the
tent and watched more Gemsbok in the desert park and then
passed a few hours in the pool, also watching the animals about a km
away.
Our permit allows us to be in the park until 19:45, we head off the 65Km to Sossusvlei, the centre of the park.
After 60K, we need 4 x 4 drive, no light comes on, we are still in 2 x 4. Turn around and get stuck! Oh SHIT!
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| Internationally famous, Dune 45 as the sun sets facing west Note central tree and top curve |
Our permit allows us to be in the park until 19:45, we head off the 65Km to Sossusvlei, the centre of the park.
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| Dune 45 tree, sunset |
Eventually, a Land Rover with a tow rope arrives, and amid much hilarity (for those of you not in the know, you are either a Rover or a Cruiser fanatic, and never the twain shall talk to the other), and photo's, we are out. Being able to drive is good enough for me, no bruised egos to nurse here!
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| Spot the tree? Same place, sunset, time to go |
Aiden & Kayla body surf down.
The sun sets, cameras
click, we head back.
It's very dark when we get back. Our camping/ cooking facilities once again prove quite adequate.
An aside to national parks in Southern Africa: All the ones we have visited, have at least a few cans, and usually some frozen meat and bread.
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| In the fading light, Aiden & Kayla body surf down |
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| What a money shot. Next morning, around dawn Fabulous textures here |
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| The dawn is breaking, and we head up the dune until dawn |
This means that even if you arrive without any food, you can stay (barely, it's true) solely on canned beans, berrianis, rice, lamb chops, boerewors (meat typically frozen) and long life milk. It's worked for us on several occasions, it works here and probably will do so again.
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| A bit past dawn |
Next morning, September 5th. we are up early for the sunrise at Dune 45. The dawn is breaking, and we head up the dune until dawn.
At 250 metres up, there's lots to see, if you like deserts. It's a lot easier to climb when its cold and damp, and there are at least 15 others up here already. How about a perspective?
Here is the missus climbing down.
After an hour, and a few gymnastics from the kids (various cartwheels and flips), its back down to the 2 x 4 parking lot. For N$150 (about $CAN35.00) we take a beaten up ancient land rover into the Vlei. This is heavy duty 4 x 4 country!
The trip to Sossusvlei takes about 15 minutes. Once in, we see the huge dunes, and of all things, the lake (vlei) at it's centre. The vlei has been drying out, and the very fine dust it leave on the ground swirls around us, it finds folds of flesh and pores we had long since forgotten.
Ilge has had enough sand crawling, and sits out our climbing experience.
Here there are probably 100 - 150 people crawling over the dunes. People and huge dunes are all around us. Very awe inspiring, and also, very dusty and sandy. Aiden & Kayla roll, cartwheel and generally burrow into the dunes.
By 10:30, we have climbed 2 huge dunes (the kids did one twice), taken what feels like 15 rolls of film, are hot, dusty, dirty and ready to call it a day.
We call it a day.
Here is the missus climbing down.
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| Dad doing dad stuff. Note atmospheric tree at the bottom of the dune |
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| Aiden & Kayla posing for artistic shot |
The trip to Sossusvlei takes about 15 minutes. Once in, we see the huge dunes, and of all things, the lake (vlei) at it's centre. The vlei has been drying out, and the very fine dust it leave on the ground swirls around us, it finds folds of flesh and pores we had long since forgotten.
Ilge has had enough sand crawling, and sits out our climbing experience.
Here there are probably 100 - 150 people crawling over the dunes. People and huge dunes are all around us. Very awe inspiring, and also, very dusty and sandy. Aiden & Kayla roll, cartwheel and generally burrow into the dunes.
By 10:30, we have climbed 2 huge dunes (the kids did one twice), taken what feels like 15 rolls of film, are hot, dusty, dirty and ready to call it a day.
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| Same old money shot Dune 45 Note the spot indicating the missus climbing down the dune |
Back and pack, GOD it's getting hot, not to mention dusty. Where to? It's 450Km to Walvis Bay, at least 6 hours away, across the bits of Namib twice
again.
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| Once in, we see the huge dunes Can you believe that I changed a lens here! |
there are other lodges shown on the map en route, but to Walvis? At 12:30PM, it sounds like a hell of a drive.
OK, lets go.
Come sunset, we are driving into the sun after a real dash across the 160Km of Namib, plus 200Km of other extremely barren desert like areas; stones ruts, dust and all.
OK, lets go.
Come sunset, we are driving into the sun after a real dash across the 160Km of Namib, plus 200Km of other extremely barren desert like areas; stones ruts, dust and all.
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| We head up to the ridge The Vlei, complete with water and greenery |
I'm following a regular 2 wheel drive car, but it's typically doing 100Kmph along a gently curving track. The driver obviously knows where the road is. The sun is directly in front of us, all I can see is the car and occasionally brake lights in front, having very little idea of what is road and what is not
Everyone is plastered
with sweat and a fairly thick layer of grime - "It feels like I have a
cap of dust on my head": Ilge
Because the radio was stolen on the boat coming over, there's a radio sized hole in the dashboard
We do not have air and it's too hot to keep the windows closed, so the windows are usually open.
So consequentially, there's a 100Kmph wind moving through the van, complete with sand, dust, everything from the dusty road beneath and ahead. I remember looking in the rear view mirror and seeing Aiden reading a book as a funnel of grit streams through the radio hole, blasting him most of all
After 350K of this, some truly death defying driving into the sunset, we emerge, finally onto bitumen, the city limits of Walvis Bay
We have, once again, survive the outrages of the desert travel and my driving skills again, but more likely sheer dumb luck, prevails.
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| A more artistic interpretation with atmospheric towering dunes |
We took it in turns to have a shower, this after sand surfing down many dunes, we compared the amounts of sand and grit in the bath tub after each one. There was a LOT!
We find a wonderful restaurant actually over the lagoon. (Aiden discovers medium-rare pepper steaks!), and in the morning have an
equally wonderful breakfast, we are able to take our time heading to Swakopmund.
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| We cartwheel and surf and wander around the Vlei We were totally disgusting after we finished here |
Swakopmund - just as I remember it, but bigger. Last time I was here 20+ years ago, I could only afford camping, this time we stay in the "A" frames run by the municipality. It's still damp and cold with lots of fog.
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| This was one of the few times, if I thought about it, I thought we might die, several times Finally, bitumen after the Namib Shukran Il'lah, Al Hum Do le Lah |
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| The lagoon was really pretty. No one else seemed to think so |
Thursday,
September 7th and the spluttering is diagnosed and "fixed" (??), the 4
wheel drive is back in action (a rusted pipe caused that), serviced
and ready for another 5/ 8,000 Km. Well, we will see through the
Kalahari.
Catch up with some e-mails, the web site seems to be 6 weeks behind - where is my web dude and what has he been at lately??
Catch up with some e-mails, the web site seems to be 6 weeks behind - where is my web dude and what has he been at lately??
Business seems to be ticking over quite happily without me,
and Val tells us that school has started for the kids.
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| For some reason, we needed a chaperone |
Friday, September 8th and we are waiting until we can move into our time share at Henties Bay, about 30Kms north.
So, off to Walvis for a harbour tour. It's grey, cold,
and we nix it before we even arrive. Instead, we chase
flamingoes, salt works and have a lazy breakfast. There is a gymnasium
here, and we get the details. Maybe we can do another trip
here next week.
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| It really wasn't the bees knees, or anything else Bee for that matter |
Pausing back in Swakop only to top up our vittles and replace the 100 - 300 mm lense (see previous entry), we arrive at "The Desert Rose" time share at Henties Bay.
We finally get a full evening and day of getting the kids to do some schoolwork, and, well, at the risk of boring you........
"As I sit here gazing out of the window onto the surf thundering away as it beaches no more than 100m away, direct from South America, I spot a seal slapping out onto the beach in front of out time share......".
Yeah, yeah, you've heard it before, but unfortunately its true yet again.......
Sunday night, pepper steaks ready for the braai, a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon at my elbow, the sun setting in the west,
Well, maybe this coming week will be a little more boring, er, I mean restful, than the last 10 weeks.
Distance travelled this entry: 1250 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 1100 Km
September 14th, Henties Bay, Namibia
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| Henties Bay vacationing is really just for avid fisherfolk, I buy mine from the market, and happily braai away the evenings |
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| We have a base for a week but it's a great place to stop for a while with a real BBQ |
What a fantastic wonderful change from
the deserts we've lived in for a week or so. There is actual grass here! REAL green stuff a first for a long time
Have
grounded the kids for two days as they were playing in the surf, and
this is not a pleasure beach. Three/ five feet of surf on the
beach is very dangerous I told them before they went down..... well
think again. The Benguela current is also very cold, live &
direct from Antarctica, for your swimming pleasure, I think not. Still
this works well to get some real school work done.
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| Swept in by the Humbolt current An exhausted seal pup |
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| We decide to try to do a camel tour outside Swakopmund |
We get down to solid school effort with some geography, English, maths (most popular), reading in English & French, local history and somehow or other bits of French grammar etc.
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| I cursed the woman for taking such a terrible shot. Oh well |
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| Whereas mine is totally action based shot |
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| We only sit on them and get led around a path. |
Aiden helps Kayla with
lots, but we have very little stuff for him to work on.
They both use the CD on the lap top for hours, and by the end of the
week end can sing some pretty duets. It's a start. After a few
days of this, I just know we do not pay our teachers enough!
Our approach is loosely based on the idea that as long as they keep learning something, that will at least be a good step to keeping them thinking.
Our approach is loosely based on the idea that as long as they keep learning something, that will at least be a good step to keeping them thinking.
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| Bit of a piss off. They fart a lot, |
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| We buy the requisite T-shirts and beat a Canadian tourist's retreat |
Thankfully, I banned all electronic games before we came. During the long drives, Aiden & Kayla play imagination games (often with words like "weapons" and levels attached), but they have also both begun to consume books on their own. A few kids books (English is preferred), and they are away to the races.
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| Aiden, contemplating his future as a well balanced and competent teen Maybe not very carefully |
During our trip across the Namib to Walvis Bay, Aiden spent 2 hours in
the dust, dross, fading light and shaking, to read! Kayla,
also now has to finish stories, and will do so without whingeing for
someone else to read to her. These are good signs.
As I'd hoped, there is sod all to do here except fish.
Monday evening, we try the local restaurant. Not bad, better than adequate, but no Michelin awards. Large rather than tasty is the order of the day. Aiden is now addicted to pepper steaks, and eats (at least) one a day, much to Ilges disapproval.
As I'd hoped, there is sod all to do here except fish.
Monday evening, we try the local restaurant. Not bad, better than adequate, but no Michelin awards. Large rather than tasty is the order of the day. Aiden is now addicted to pepper steaks, and eats (at least) one a day, much to Ilges disapproval.
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| Val tells us that school has started for the kids I hope that this counts |
We have only seen a few families here in this time share - very few
people here, and most of those were only here for the Friday to
Sunday. Seems that you can have time shares in Southern Africa, on a
half week basis too. So, come Monday, we are pretty much
on our own. We merrily pass the days, occasionally catching what few
rays there are, and braiing away the evenings.
The "town" of
Henties Bay is pretty down market, there is an e-mail shop which also
sells china dolls etc, and the owner has to wait for me to
finish before he can continue working. At $CAN14.00/ hour, I decide to
use it for urgent stuff only. Actually had to organise a work
related item urgently, so it did come in handy. Also noted that the
"repaired" tyre was still leaking, found that the damage caused by
the stone was more or less irreversible, and had to stick a tube in it
and will keep it for a spare only.
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We treat ourselves to a round of golf More for the anecdote than the game itself |
With this in mind, I've now
added a pressure gauge to my tool kit, and check the (5) tire pressure
every few days, or whenever we leave for a long trek.
Come Tuesday September 12th, we try for the harbour tour of Walvis Bay again: 100Km away, so we are out of here early, 7:30 (hey! that's 1:30 to you guys back home!). Kayla & I think the boat leaves at 9:30, Ilge says 9:00. We get there at 8:59. Ilge was right.
So, we blew it again, we tour the lagoon (still cool and foggy) in the cruiser.
Come Tuesday September 12th, we try for the harbour tour of Walvis Bay again: 100Km away, so we are out of here early, 7:30 (hey! that's 1:30 to you guys back home!). Kayla & I think the boat leaves at 9:30, Ilge says 9:00. We get there at 8:59. Ilge was right.
So, we blew it again, we tour the lagoon (still cool and foggy) in the cruiser.
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| WOW! A hole in 23! |
Lots of flamingos.
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| Pretty much everything here is a bunker. A hole takes about 20 - 30 shots Fore, or Twenty Fore? We are convinced that we are not golfers |
Back into Walvis for coffee, bits etc.
Decide to try to do a camel tour outside Swakopmund, so we are back up the coast. A few more e-mails (keep it up folks - we love to hear from you all), and by 2:00PM we are wandering around on camels. Nothing like I expected - we only sit on them and get led around a path. Bit of a piss off.
Decide to try to do a camel tour outside Swakopmund, so we are back up the coast. A few more e-mails (keep it up folks - we love to hear from you all), and by 2:00PM we are wandering around on camels. Nothing like I expected - we only sit on them and get led around a path. Bit of a piss off.
They fart a lot, and smell worse than the kids do! We also asked the woman in charge to video tape
us while on board, and she totally screwed up. I was really pissed off about this! All I ended up with was a still of us all. We buy the
requisite T-shirts and beat a Canadian tourist's retreat.
Stock up at the local super market, you get a different class of beggar when you are wearing a tourist T shirt I find, and head back to Henties.
Wednesday September 13th, was spent on some more school work for the kids and reading for us. Both Ilge & I do some of our "settled" chores, me vehicular, battery charging etc. her, food, clothing etc stuff. Being here for a week means we can unload everything from the van, and sort through and re prioritise etc our set up. I finally finish the last of the Economists I picked up in Cape Town, now what to keep my amused?
Stock up at the local super market, you get a different class of beggar when you are wearing a tourist T shirt I find, and head back to Henties.
Wednesday September 13th, was spent on some more school work for the kids and reading for us. Both Ilge & I do some of our "settled" chores, me vehicular, battery charging etc. her, food, clothing etc stuff. Being here for a week means we can unload everything from the van, and sort through and re prioritise etc our set up. I finally finish the last of the Economists I picked up in Cape Town, now what to keep my amused?
The only excitement of the day (and most of the night), was Kayla projectile upchucking. We got through every towel and piece of material in the time share cleaning it up. It went on for a long time (details by request only).
All well again come September 14th Thursday AM.
We treat ourselves to a round of golf.
This being the desert, only the "greens" are actually green, the rest
of the course is - you
guessed it, desert. We hack around with 3, 4 & 5 irons (means
nothing to me) for the day, stopping for lunch at the local hotel. The
scores (per hole) par 4, are of the order of 17 (Ilge & Aiden) - 12
(Kayla & I). Ilge leaves us for the PM slot to do the laundry,
driving back the cruiser dies (!!), so she walks to the last hole.
 |
| And we are back for our final braai in Henties. Absolutely boring and empty. A perfect week |
It
now only takes me 30 seconds to fix the problem (airlock in the
fuel pipe), and we are back for our final braai in Henties.
Tomorrow we head off north to the Cape Fur seal Colony, and then North East toward Etosha, back to some serious animal and game viewing we hope.
Distance travelled this entry: 0 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 350 Km
Tomorrow we head off north to the Cape Fur seal Colony, and then North East toward Etosha, back to some serious animal and game viewing we hope.
Distance travelled this entry: 0 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 350 Km
Editors Note:
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
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| Hobas camp site, our first one About 150Km inside Namibia |
 |
| We have shipped a pile of camping gear |
 |
| With the cruiser. Apparently it wasn't worth stealing |
 |
| Aiden and Kayla are well versed at this |
 |
| And here I am, updating you, dear reader on our travels to date |
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| The finished item. It's the middle of the desert, so no fly required |
 |
| Then we head North, then west to Lüderitz |
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| The viewing shack for the Garub wild horses |
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| Apparently, there is a pump |
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| As shown |
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| Not being camels, I can't imagine how they ever survived without it |
 |
| The local (crowded) seal colony |
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| Dune 45, Sesriem, evening |
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| From the top, note trees and vehicle way below |
 |
| Well, thats why we are here |
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| As you can see, the parking lot is not busy |
 |
| There's enough slope for a slide and more dust than you can get out of your clothes |
 |
| Time t head back to our camping site |
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| Up way before dawn to capture |
 |
| a few fleeting moments of sunrise around 7AM |
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| Quite magical in it's own way |
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| Unlike last night, today we have competition |
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| 7:30, half an hour after sunrise. National Geographic material |
 |
| Spot the family masquerading as tiny dots |
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| Super telephoto capturing, something, maybe |
 |
| I guess the thrill is more in the anticipation |
 |
| Gymnastics appear to be high on the list of activities up here |
 |
| Kayla emptying her accumulations |
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| A hired trip into Sossuvlei and join the spectator |
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| The kids continue the rolling and jumping and gathering of dust and sand |
 |
| We have crossed the Namib successfully |
 |
| And settle into tourist pursuits |
 |
| Aiden loves it |
 |
| Payback..... |
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| Rather tame in many ways |
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| But it seemed to tick some boxes |
 |
| This African trek continues to feel |
 |
| Like it's a great idea |
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| An endless vacation? |
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| Well, maybe. Time will tell if it was a great investment |
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| Not financially, but as a family |
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| We use another time share week to stop |
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| Now in Henties Bay at a tiny one |
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| A truly remote and out of the way location |
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| We head back to Walvis Bay, hoping for a boat ride |
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| But we are too late, so end up watching |
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| These guys in the bay |
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| As I remember, I wasn't too keen on the cruise anyway |
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| So everyone settles for a wild viewing and a local café for repast |
 |
| Well, the way I look at it |
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| If we are settled in for a week as bona fide tourists |
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| We can do bona fide tourist stuff |
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| And camel riding (even being led around) |
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| Exactly meets all requirements |
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| I was pissed off with being led around, but much later, realised it was the only way to get camels to move |
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| I had pre conceived ideas about what a golf club should look like |
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| And it certainly wasn't this |
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| It might look like a "green" |
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| But in reality, it's just desert covered in oil |
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| Doubt if it made much of a difference |
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| To our handicap, 12 (Kayla & I) and 17 shots (Ilge and Aiden) for this hole |
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| Everything is either a sand trap, or bunkers |
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| Mind you, the "club" was extremely helpful and provided everything we needed, except skill or a Gin'nTonix in the clubhouse after |
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| I think we managed 9 holes |
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| Finding the ball in the desert was quite the metaphor |
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| I think that this was the last time |
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| Any of us has played golf |
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| Lots of tension as we head back to the clubhouse with our final shot(s) |
From your Correspondent, December 2nd. 2025
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