Our continuing South African Trek: Malealea - Hobas, Namibia
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| Malealea and local environs. We all survived without mishap There is no downside |
Where do I start?
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| Incredible views of the Matalile mountain range from our room, a beaten up old caravan. Perfect |
Mick is the on site manager while Di looks after the marketing and information details in Bloemfontein about 200KM away..
August 13th.
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| Malealea by Moonlight |
We head through two wire gates, the first contains the guides and horses, the second, the lodge itself. Lots of horses and locals waiting for something to happen. The gate guy finds the man, and we meet Mick. He immediately recognises my name from my e-mailing of February.
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| These guys all play "instruments made from junk and trash" The sound and singing is truly magical under the stars |
This has been the highlight of the tour for Kayla since I told her about it in March bar
none.
She wants the full 6 nights/ seven day grand tour.
We think about what tour of the interior we will be taking as we move into our chalet - a trailer home, meanwhile, clothes go off to the laundry and we relax, late lunch with an incredible view of the mountains, and enjoy a sundowner or two on the bar veranda. What a life.
After a bottle of wine, and a few well selected arm twists from Kayla, we all (mostly) decide on a 4 day 3 nighter into the mountains. Mick is informed, and all is arranged. We go at first light (9:30AM).
At dusk, there is a band show: local kids put on a band and/ or a choir show. Tonight it's the band.
Totally home made instruments, old cans, bits of wood and tyres make as good a beating and
strumming implement as a Ludwig (well maybe not quite as good). Remember, there is next to nothing
for these kids, so they all have
Dinner is a glorious African Backwater buffet: soup, stew, truly marvellous, cheesecake pud thing.
There is shit, garbage (not so much the western idea of garbage - these people cannot afford any such
luxuries wrapped or otherwise), but bits of bones, maize cobs, plastic bags, scraps of rags. Dust and dirt
and more dust. Imagine Algonquin Park at 7000 feet, little rainfall, no trees, poor soil and 1 million
people living there for a thousand year. Now imagine living there on $20.00 per year for this time.
In order to use the braai (in reality this turns out to be a bucket with holes in it), we had to bring our own charcoal. Dinner proceeds complete with burnt spuds and roasties - just like home! We finish our sundowner - a light chardonnay as the sun sets. By 7:00PM, candle power (we brought 3), is the only light and we are totally wanked out.
August 15th: The local roosters start around 5:30AM.
There is ice on the southern sides of the mountains and the streams are frozen as we tramp through them. It's a beautiful sunny day - yet another beautiful sunny day in Southern Africa!
We all awake early, Weetabix, hot water and jam (jam?), black coffee and are able to get out earlier too - 7:50 today,
The way we have found to get the ponies to go, is to shout "hai, HAI" at them, and beat them with the
reigns around the neck. This gets to be a bit amusing as "hai" sounds a lot like "Hi!" to the ponies who
are obviously unaware that the slight difference in pronunciation have very different meanings for
action.
We arrive at 1:30, very early, probably due to our galloping around. Our final night in the bush (bald lumps of rock would cover it better). Our guides unsaddle the horses and head off to greener pastures somewhere. The local kids gather around.
Our check in time is a little later - the floor is being refreshed, mud and cow shit seems to be the
accepted mix here.
As we head through a village - first vehicle we've seen in days, we gallop off past the locals who have a
great laugh as they see us charging along. More "Hai's" produce more gallops.
Paradise is nearly over.
Tomorrow, we are off back to reality, time to grease the door locks, and charge the cell phone.
The game park beckons us, and we head off for a tour of the grounds.
First we have a real interrogation with the guard. Oranges send the Elephants berserk. Are you SURE you don't have any in the van?
Lots of ostriches, hartebeest, occasional eland and kudu. Around a bend, elephants. We stop the car and wait.
There follows a long drive (the longest yet), of another 350 Km across Free State. We pass the time by getting Aiden & Kayla to read up on SA in our Lonely Planet guide - quite without exception, indispensable!
We forgot to "dress" for dinner! We are met by our hostess in the hotel lounge, and over a glass or two of sherry (medium please), we discuss the never ending attractions and trepidations, in equal measure of glorious South Africa.
We have nearly an hour of conversing with the hostess and guests. One of whom compares notes with us of pony trekking in Lesotho. It turns out that she was invited to take a free publicity trek with the hope of publicising her adventures.
(Editors note: Too true, I put on about 15lbs during the trip which took 6 months or more to get rid of)
We make it here without further incident (there really is a doG!)
For everyone's information, today, the kids are doing some school
work, about 4 - 6 hours per week so far, but, we are doing some.
Today it's maths, (by far the most popular), French (Aiden actually
enjoying his book!), and some Canadiana.
August 21st: I want to get to Cape Town in a day (about 600+ Km), well, we can try. At 6:00AM, we are out for our final game drive at Addo, not much in the way of animals - more ostriches, lightening, and some rain is the highlight of the outing. A quick breakfast, and we are out again onto the open road.
Off to George for a large!! Fish lunch, (I'm going to regret the "large" part of this) then down to Mossel Bay for
our evenings retreat.
After a breakfast, I change the batteries around (again!!?), and we head off to the Cape.
On the way, we pass through the Little Karoo, and stumble on this wonderful little place called Barrydale. We have a great lunch, and the proprietress tells us that one of South Africa's best kept secrets, Hermanus, is currently the place for whale watching. So, what else can we do? We arrive at 4:00PM, and get a B&B fairly easily - low season remember.
No whales, but we are told there were 4 earlier that day. This is an incredibly beautiful little town, mountains as a backdrop, lovely cliffs to walk across, and very relaxed and friendly: this is before the whales turn up.
We eat at the place recommended by everyone. Not as good as most places in land.
Time to sleep.
Our host at the Hermanus guest house, knocked on our door at 7:30AM to tell us the whales had been in the local bay since 2:00AM, and had woken them up. You could hear them snorting from the house "making a hellofanoise!". We are out, yes indeed, piles of them around the harbour, at least 6 within 200 metres, several outside the wall, and two breaching out in the bay! We stay till we are (almost) bored.
August 23rd. head off to the local bays actually in town to check out the local mammals. There are piles of them, some no more than 20 metres off the rocks we are standing on! Incredible, we do not need a boat for this. They make a lot of noise! We watch for an hour or more, and they eventually drift off toward the town.
Now I'm off to a 4 x 4 garage to have the fuel line checked out (again). We head off to a local internet shop, to FTP some of the photo pix to the web site. Ouch - really expensive at $CAN8.00 per hour.
Pick up the machine, and "absolutely nothing wrong" I tell him I'll remember that next time it refuses to start.
Just marvellous to simply sit and watch
Not sure if they should have been doing schoolwork though
Evening finds us at the harbour restaurant, we bring Aiden & Kayla's hiking sticks to ward off unwanted attention on the dark roads as we walk back to the B&B.
Distance travelled this entry: 450 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 400 Km
This is our last day here, and tomorrow, (Monday 28th. August), we head North for Namibia and the rest of the world up there.
The trip from Hermanus was slightly delayed and interrupted, when I found that the cruiser (is this beginning to sound familiar), had a fairly major oil leak - large enough to destroy a lump of the lawn we parked on (This was the first place we have stayed without night security, so we hid the van behind the house on the lawn)
Back to the 4 x 4 guy. We scratch about on the sump, and it looks like a screwdriver has been stuck through it.........
He glues it up with some epoxy, (something else for my daily checklist!), and I'm off back to the Internet café to finish off the pix and the new diary web files.
The sun is setting as I type this up.
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| Kayla's dream of about 2 years begins |
We think about what tour of the interior we will be taking as we move into our chalet - a trailer home, meanwhile, clothes go off to the laundry and we relax, late lunch with an incredible view of the mountains, and enjoy a sundowner or two on the bar veranda. What a life.
After a bottle of wine, and a few well selected arm twists from Kayla, we all (mostly) decide on a 4 day 3 nighter into the mountains. Mick is informed, and all is arranged. We go at first light (9:30AM).
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| Kayla's dream, from a year ago begins Just tourist trotting until we reach the sheer drop As we soon find out, this is the easy bit. |
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| Oh wow! This is nothing like Toronto folks Thankfully, we use Australian saddles Quite the safety feature on these slopes for those who know their horsey stuff |
No peace here, we need to organise for 4 days where we expect there to be literally nothing, and maybe
less. There are two large bags for day to day, and two sleeping bag packs for the pack pony, plus a
saddlebag for each rider.
August 14th.:
After a few more cans and crackers from the local store are packed, we meet Ismail our
guide, and our ponies. We are supposed to have wet weather gear, hats, winter gear, decent riding boots,
sun protecting clothing etc. We have a jacket each, no hats, pumps for riding and wear tank tops (except
the missus of course) - sound familiar?
One hour into the ride, we see what was meant by "testing the riders nerves". There is a beautiful
canyon ahead of us. Eventually, reality dawns on us: unfortunately, we have to go down it.
It's just boulders and huge rocky surfaces. Somehow, the pony's manage it. We are terrified.
The trick is to lean back going down and
forward going up. The pony manages whatever you do. My digital camera batteries die as we head
down - no pix for this one folks! (This thing chews up power - avoid Kodak digipix!)
At the bottom of the gorge, we stop to have a drink and marvel at our lucky escape from almost certain death. Ismail tells us no one has ever fallen off.
Another 2 hours of riding, and we are getting into serious back lands here. Lunch time, we are on a hill top, there are no trees, bushes, and little grass. Lots of kids shepherding cattle, sheep, goats, several horses around. We find some rocks and hobble to them. Once again, bums and legs ache.
At the bottom of the gorge, we stop to have a drink and marvel at our lucky escape from almost certain death. Ismail tells us no one has ever fallen off.
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| At the bottom of the first gorge Our first river after a 60 degree bolder and rocks ride down |
Another 2 hours of riding, and we are getting into serious back lands here. Lunch time, we are on a hill top, there are no trees, bushes, and little grass. Lots of kids shepherding cattle, sheep, goats, several horses around. We find some rocks and hobble to them. Once again, bums and legs ache.
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After 4 hours we could hardly get out of the saddles |
A shepherd boy plays
his tin can fiddle just for fun a few metres away through our chompings.
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| We were told it took about 20 minutes to get here, especially bearing in mind our bums & legs We were totally knackered after 1 hour+ Our guide had no problem |
People we meet smile and say hello or the Sotho equivalent. They obviously see tourist on horseback
quite often out here. The landscape is pretty bleak.
By 3:00PM, we are at our overnight accommodation. The ponies are totally crapped out - it's been a
long way up and down. The pack pony is a bundle of sweat - it's glad to get rid of it's load.
This village is simply a few mud huts (rondavels), lots of kids, many more sheep, goats, chickens and
cattle. The hut is circular and about 4 metres across. It's equipped with five thin plastic mattresses, a
table, a gas burner, plates, cutlery, 4 chairs, two stools, a mud (actually, cow shit) floor, some dust, a door, two "windows"
and a bucket of "spring water".
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| Our first village. A few simple mud huts (rondavels) The hut is circular and about 4 metres across. |
There is a long drop 20 metres down the hill with a truly incredible
view of the valley to ponder during our exertions. Everything else we have to have with us, or it's not
available till we get back.
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| As the sun sets, we are home again I found this truly wonderful A totally amazing experience to be out here Plus, with the family too We fire up the barbeque and eat by moon light |
After moving in, we are off to a local waterfall - an hour and a bit away. Our guide is about 8 years
old.
It's a tough walk too, especially bearing in mind our bums & legs. Very pretty it is, and once again,
the river water is taken as being clean enough to drink - we already needed tests anyway! We'll see if
we wake up alive tomorrow.
We came this way as we wanted to braii some chicken and this was the only village that has a grill!
Amazing to think that the gas burner in our hut is probably the most sophisticated equipment within 25
Km. I ask our guide for 12 eggs from the residents - no problem - here's breakfast, lunch and probably a
few heart problems somewhen in a few years time. 60cents each. The lady does not know what 12 x
0.60 is. Aiden & I draw the maths in the sand.
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We have survived the night This is totally Gob Smacking as a tourist. Born and raised here? Maybe not so much |
In order to use the braai (in reality this turns out to be a bucket with holes in it), we had to bring our own charcoal. Dinner proceeds complete with burnt spuds and roasties - just like home! We finish our sundowner - a light chardonnay as the sun sets. By 7:00PM, candle power (we brought 3), is the only light and we are totally wanked out.
August 15th: The local roosters start around 5:30AM.
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| "First" thing, probably about 7:30AM |
The sheep and goats have been complaining most of the
night.
They are right in front of our hut, which is right next to the chiefs hut - a place of honour for us.
Our guides are up soon after, and have the ponies ready by 6:30. I find a lamb which was locked out of the enclosure last night, as I enter the long drop. Neither of us expected this, but we exclude each other, and both get on with our allotted tasks.
Coffee, black, a few leftovers and some eggs later and we get our acts together by 8:30.
Back in the saddle, (yes, we all manage to get back onto our mounts), we climb into the hills above the village, up, and up.
Our guides are up soon after, and have the ponies ready by 6:30. I find a lamb which was locked out of the enclosure last night, as I enter the long drop. Neither of us expected this, but we exclude each other, and both get on with our allotted tasks.
Coffee, black, a few leftovers and some eggs later and we get our acts together by 8:30.
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We prepare to saddle up, aching bums be damned |
Always with the sun on our left
- heading West for another day - this is really heading to central nowhere.
Over the pass - probably around 2000m+. Here we are above the snow line - we are lucky - it's spring.
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We depart our overnight lodgings having zero idea where we are, where we have come from or where we are going for that matter |
There is ice on the southern sides of the mountains and the streams are frozen as we tramp through them. It's a beautiful sunny day - yet another beautiful sunny day in Southern Africa!
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| Once again, up, up over the pass, Kayla's dream continues. Mine too I guess |
Lunch again is anywhere we stop, again, rocks and views. Our bones are no longer complaining, we
simply smell a lot now. We reach our next village by 2:30.
We get off our horses a little easier today! Edna & Edni enjoy
themselves with their special viewing location in a saddlebag.
A larger rondavel and lots of mattresses - even more comfortable than last night. There is another falls nearby, but we opt for an easy night. There is a woman winnowing wheat until sunset.
Ismail & I chat about the area etc. We talk about the snows in winter, planting seasons and how many
kids/ wives he has (one of each). I ask him why he has so many layers of clothes on (two sweaters and
an overall boiler suit), compared to my single thin tee shirt.
A larger rondavel and lots of mattresses - even more comfortable than last night. There is another falls nearby, but we opt for an easy night. There is a woman winnowing wheat until sunset.
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Bad Hair Day. Sunrise and its a long way to a shower. |
Succinctly he pinpoints the issue: "Yes, but
you are fat" he explains. At our suite, another shepherd boy passes outside playing his fiddle as he leads his sheep into the stone
enclosure, once again, just below our rondavel. Aiden is "mattress master" and organises our sleeping
area.
Sunset at 6:00. It's a full moon. This is an added bonus as we brush our teeth - we can see without the
candles. As we wash, the soap often drops into the dirt (see references to "shit" above). This is certainly
an experience quite different to just about any other we have ever been on!
We are lying in our sleeping bags, on our mattresses (an idle tourist luxury here), 5 cm off the floor by 6:30PM. The dust gets into your skin, into your nose, into your food, drink.... everything.
I stay awake awhile (not totally exhausted yet). This is not the place you need to have a sudden pain in
your chest!
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| It's a long way to get home Heart attacks are definitely a non starter here |
We are lying in our sleeping bags, on our mattresses (an idle tourist luxury here), 5 cm off the floor by 6:30PM. The dust gets into your skin, into your nose, into your food, drink.... everything.
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| Way up the mountains. Lunch again is anywhere we stop Our bodies complaining constantly now |
We all awake early, Weetabix, hot water and jam (jam?), black coffee and are able to get out earlier too - 7:50 today,
August 16th. We have been in Africa for 6 weeks!
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| A larger rondavel and lots of mattresses - even more comfortable than last night This is not the place to have a heart attack or an embolism folks |
On the way to our next village, there is a relatively flat valley, so Aiden, Kayla & I are off to test out
our steeds.
Surrounded by ice covered peaks, and stringy bushes and slow running stream paths, we
gallop across the landscape. Once our mounts know that we are capable of staying on at these speeds,
"HAI," and "Hi" appear to become interchangeable, and no one seems to mind. Our guides think this
charging around is a great laugh, and we pass a few hours this way. What a life.
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| Surrounded by ice covered peaks |
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| Head em off at the pass. Then down an almost vertical slope, again |
We arrive at 1:30, very early, probably due to our galloping around. Our final night in the bush (bald lumps of rock would cover it better). Our guides unsaddle the horses and head off to greener pastures somewhere. The local kids gather around.
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| On the way to our next village, there is a relatively flat valley, so Aiden, Kayla & I are off to test out our steeds Endless valleys, peaks, passes, streams and rivers, and stringy bushes and slow running stream paths Magnificent |
The previous contents of our apartment is outside while the floor is fixed. We wait
on the chairs, in the shade of the newly blossoming cherry (?) tree. The floor dries slowly, but we are in
around 3:00. You do not stay here if you have asthma! It's almost noxious in here.
Ilge talks to the local headman - the usual children things,
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| The local kids gather around. Some of the headsman's 8 (or 9 he says) children |
"how many do you have?" he asks,
"two" she answers,
"and you?" she requests,
"eight,........ or nine" he replies.
We find there is no gas anywhere, so we borrow a kettle of hot water from the hut next door. Tea on the veranda.
"two" she answers,
"and you?" she requests,
"eight,........ or nine" he replies.
We find there is no gas anywhere, so we borrow a kettle of hot water from the hut next door. Tea on the veranda.
Lots of small kids, some
with malnourished bellies scoot around in front of us. One of them suddenly
run down the hill. There is the sound of a large fart, and everyone
collapses with laughter.
Our guides eventually return at dusk, and try to find some paraffin
for some heating. There are gone for nearly an hour to the next two
villages and return with none. Cold cans of beans and peaches tonight.
Kayla has 4 weetabix with cold water and sugar. A communal Ugh!
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God knows how they grow anything except plastic bags here |
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| Art in austerity |
Breakfast, well, we make do with a cold can of beans, and head off early at 7:30.
Now we turn around with the sun on our right - moving East. (Here the sun is in the North, and moves
from right to left remember). Out of the village, (we were told their names, but I've forgotten them),
once again, up, up over the pass. Our pack pony is now definitely frisky with next to no load except the
trash we are bringing back with us. It has been a pain since it could move around easier as it feels it
should be ahead of us back riders - Kayla & Aiden always lead, and keeps cutting in - often on
precipitous slopes.
At the top of the pass, we see we have to head down at least 500 metres to the valley floor in front of us. There is no way you can negotiate these hills and trails without a guide - it all looks exactly the same to us. This is a longer drop down and as I've ever seen, I'm changing the camera gear (in our trusty camera backpack) as we move down. Digital camera, video and 35mm SLR (with either 35/70 zoom or
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| Heading back, I'm told, but none of us would know. We could be navigating the moon |
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| The not so long road home. "Hai" to the locals gets you there much faster |
At the top of the pass, we see we have to head down at least 500 metres to the valley floor in front of us. There is no way you can negotiate these hills and trails without a guide - it all looks exactly the same to us. This is a longer drop down and as I've ever seen, I'm changing the camera gear (in our trusty camera backpack) as we move down. Digital camera, video and 35mm SLR (with either 35/70 zoom or
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| Another fabulous shot. Well, all things considered, we are a pretty adventurous family |
100/300 zoom). Getting good shots is a problem with all as the subject and the photographer move all
the time - whether you intend to or not!
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Our last day, heading down the valley Kayla & Aiden always lead, and the pack pony keeps cutting in, |
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| often on precipitous slopes |
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| At the top of the pass, heading home |
Eventually, after another gorge,
we are back to the first gorge we had our first palpitations 4 days
ago. Lunch at the bottom tinned beef (beef hearts, beef fat and beef),
and once again, beans, peaches and cookies help us survive.
Once up the nearly vertical face, (by now I'm totally fed up with photo's), more galloping back and we
are in Malealea again.
Where's the shower?
We organise ourselves, laundry, grub, dispose of trash etc. Edna & Edni having travelled in a saddlebag, get a thorough extra rinse
The choir sings tonight. Beautiful harmonies. We sup on our Cabernet Sauvignon till they finish.
Piece of resistance: Dinner is massive T-bones that literally fill the 12 inch plate. After cold beans for a day,
this is a feast. It was probably a feast in it's own right anyway! Aiden & Kayla both get one, and both
finish it! Fantastic evening. The generator is off at 10:00PM, and we sleep the sleep of the cleansed and
accomplished.
We organise ourselves, laundry, grub, dispose of trash etc. Edna & Edni having travelled in a saddlebag, get a thorough extra rinse
The choir sings tonight. Beautiful harmonies. We sup on our Cabernet Sauvignon till they finish.
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| Eventually, after another gorge, we are nearly back to Malealea. |
Paradise is nearly over.
Tomorrow, we are off back to reality, time to grease the door locks, and charge the cell phone.
Distance travelled this entry: 225 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 125 Km
Sunday, August 20th, Addo Elephant National Park, Eastern Cape, South Africa
As I type up my series to date, out here on the veranda of our chalet in this park, I look up to see a string of elephants heading off to the local watering hole. It's 1:00PM - the heat of the day. There is a lot of trumpeting as 20, 40, 70, 90? elephants come out of the bush about 1 Km away across the bush hills heading for the water hole, just by the reception centre.
This is Addo National Park, set up specifically in 1923 to protect
the (13) remaining Addo elephants. We sneak in here on a hope and
a prayer: it's Saturday; most places are full. We call ahead on the
cell, nothing available. What the hell, lets try anyway.
Sunday, August 20th, Addo Elephant National Park, Eastern Cape, South Africa
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| Cradock: Positively Jane Austen, as it is meant to be. All cottages renovated to be exactly as originally intended |
As I type up my series to date, out here on the veranda of our chalet in this park, I look up to see a string of elephants heading off to the local watering hole. It's 1:00PM - the heat of the day. There is a lot of trumpeting as 20, 40, 70, 90? elephants come out of the bush about 1 Km away across the bush hills heading for the water hole, just by the reception centre.
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| The Karoo. It's big, dry and totally barren |
We arrive about 1:30, and are told the same story, I ask if there is a
waiting list/ any chance. We become the waiting list. At the water
hole, about 100 metres away, are about 90/ 100 elephants, lots of
babies.
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| Addo Elephant Park. A special reserve for endangered elephants |
First we have a real interrogation with the guard. Oranges send the Elephants berserk. Are you SURE you don't have any in the van?
Lots of ostriches, hartebeest, occasional eland and kudu. Around a bend, elephants. We stop the car and wait.
You can hear them
chewing, coming closer, occasional shadows and shapes but not many of the real thing. Move on and suddenly we are surrounded by them, a little
closer, and this time they are no more than 2 metres away.
Back at the ranch, and we are told that there is one chalet left, would we like it?
Braiing and wine tasting takes up the rest of the evening.
The trip from Malealea to here was apart from the cruiser not
starting (?$#$%$%^!) was very pleasant. On the Friday we left, the
diesel had a huge air lock in the fuel pipe, and I did not have any
diesel, or know how as in to know how to fix it. Mick eventually got back
from a pick up drive, & was able to give me some diesel to prime the
pump/ pipes. Even with this, it still took a lot of coaxing to
start. Masses of black smoke erupting from the exhaust, and hesitating
on pick up even without any load! Oh shit - what next?
Back at the ranch, and we are told that there is one chalet left, would we like it?
Braiing and wine tasting takes up the rest of the evening.
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| No more than a metre from the van. Lots of them. It was such a fantastic sensation Having these huge animals within touching distance |
Eventually, we leave after giving Mick our old clothes, including some
of our winter coats - he uses them in exchange for various
environmental/ work stuff done by the locals. At the gates, Aiden &
Kayla buy one of the locally made horse whips each. They are
about 6 feet long! How will we get these home?
The destination for Friday night is Cradock in the Free State.
Through the border, once again, it takes longer to find out where we
go, than to pass through. We pay the R5.00 "toll" out of Lesotho
and within 5 minutes, we are officially back in S.A. - Too easy.
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| Actually, the view from our accommodation |
There follows a long drive (the longest yet), of another 350 Km across Free State. We pass the time by getting Aiden & Kayla to read up on SA in our Lonely Planet guide - quite without exception, indispensable!
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| I guess you need some kind of foraging clean up animals |
After
a Wimpy meal in Aliwal North, we are on the road and arrive at Die
Tuishuise Guesthouse at 6:45. We move into a truly
gloriously restored Victorian cottage on a whole street full of similar
cottages. It's TOTALLY amazing (yes this is Smitho saying
this!). Beautifully conceived with a theme, and even actual real period
antiques to go with each room,
from a maize grinder, to a
rocking horse. It is TOTALLY stunning. The kids get in first, and claim
the four poster bed as theirs! We are awe struck by it all. But
wait, as the adverts say, that's not all. We opt for the "full package"
including dinner at the Victoria Hotel at the end of the street.
We forgot to "dress" for dinner! We are met by our hostess in the hotel lounge, and over a glass or two of sherry (medium please), we discuss the never ending attractions and trepidations, in equal measure of glorious South Africa.
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| But it's very tame, only ostriches, kudu, and hartebeest Well, it is Addo Elephant reserve so not much "real" game |
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| We (3) are off for a horse ride in the park These guys are real Thoroughbreds |
Not so fast! She fell off and broke her shoulder, a day or so into the trek. I can only imagine (she did describe it) the horror of a pony trek in the saddle with a broken shoulder. We did not come across this write up in our research.....
After our delightful interactions (more sherry?), we join the other guests for a
truly outrageous buffet, A whole table full of "Karoo Fare"
including goodies such as kudu stew , leg of lamb and chicken. After we
had pigged out on this, it was all cleared and another set of
grub was presented! That was our first course.
PIG OUT! Of course, this had to be followed by pud.
This all for R160.00 including the kids - that's about
$CAN35.00. I think we will all be really fat upon our return after this
type of evening.
(Editors note: Too true, I put on about 15lbs during the trip which took 6 months or more to get rid of)
 |
| There's no predators here, except jackals, and maybe eagles and Meerkats Note mighty steeds |
I get absolutely pissed out of my head, and in the middle of dinner call David back in Toronto, probably something financial, but international calling, even while pissed out of my head appears practicable
The Lonely Planet was right, this place is worth a big detour for!
As it is 10:00PM here, we do a pile of calling - about an hour (it costs about $3.50/ minute from here!), and catch up with various non action at home.
In the morning, (August 19th.) it's off for breakfast - there is a slow flat on the cruiser. Off to the garage for a quick fix while
breakfasting. Once again, I turn the batteries around for voltage balancing - this is a real pain! On our way out of Cradock, the cruiser judders to yet another fuel
(lack of) induced halt. Eventually we start, and I'm not stopping
till we get somewhere!
The Lonely Planet was right, this place is worth a big detour for!
As it is 10:00PM here, we do a pile of calling - about an hour (it costs about $3.50/ minute from here!), and catch up with various non action at home.
 |
| More life's ambitions achieved here for Kayla |
We make it here without further incident (there really is a doG!)
After this, we are off for a horse ride actually in the park - just the three of us
and the guide.
 |
| Looks harmless doesn't it Do not try this at home, or with thoroughbreds! Heading back was incredibly dangerous! |
Sounds great, but it's very tame, only
ostriches, kudu, and hartebeest. There are supposed to be 400+ elephants
and 15 Black Rhino's here.
All the way through the park (3
hours), the horses - no Basotho ponies these!, full racing stock here,
need a VERY tight reign. Kayla gets kicked by the other two
horses (ouch!) As they are very highly strung. We stop at a tree in the centre of the park for a break. Still nothing - even here.
By the
time we gallop back to the stables, we are all pretty bored - can you imagine!
This has been one of our quite days!
This has been one of our quite days!
August 21st: I want to get to Cape Town in a day (about 600+ Km), well, we can try. At 6:00AM, we are out for our final game drive at Addo, not much in the way of animals - more ostriches, lightening, and some rain is the highlight of the outing. A quick breakfast, and we are out again onto the open road.
Distance travelled this entry: 600 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 600 Km
Wednesday, August 23rd, Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
Distance moved on trip this entry: 600 Km
Wednesday, August 23rd, Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
 |
| We head off course to an Ostrich breeding farm at Oudtshoorn Aiden & Kayla testing egg dynamics |
 |
| Kayla preparing for the Ostrich racing |
As I sit here in a wonderful B&B in a glorious town of Hermanus, I
have the misfortune to be watching early morning TV which is pretty much the
usual US crap. "Oprah" really gives me some perspective on society (as
if I needed any more perspective). It's full of people who are
"angry", or "insecure" or "jealous" or "depressed", and there is an
emotional "guru" advising these people how to overcome these life
threatening pains.
Of course, none of these losers problems are self imposed or the result of their lack of actions, they are all caused by something, or more likely, someone else.
Yeah, right
 |
| Kayla is quite at home on this one, even without a saddle |
Driving through Southern Africa, seeing the poverty and absolute lack
of not only material, but in many cases, the lack of any chance
of any material... Words fail me. (Actually, they don't - inquire for details)
I digress!
After leaving Addo on Aug 21st., about 200Km out onto the Garden Route, we smell diesel. I ignore it.
I digress!
After leaving Addo on Aug 21st., about 200Km out onto the Garden Route, we smell diesel. I ignore it.
At a toll booth 40 Km down from where it started to smell, we finally stop, pay and I check it out.
The diesel fuel filter has ruptured with a hairline crack. It's
pissing out everywhere and there is a pool under the machine within a
few
seconds.
I have a spare filter and a tool, but it's for the larger oil filter, but cannot get this one onto the filter. Time to call the AA. Ha! I'm on file with my Canadian AA card. A mechanic calls on the cell, but I still try to fix it myself - I only need the tool to work for doGs sake!
 |
| Aiden is not so sure about this Much family amusements here |
I have a spare filter and a tool, but it's for the larger oil filter, but cannot get this one onto the filter. Time to call the AA. Ha! I'm on file with my Canadian AA card. A mechanic calls on the cell, but I still try to fix it myself - I only need the tool to work for doGs sake!
After careful analysis, I turn the tool upside down, and Voila! We are on the road again.
 |
| Aiden is still not so sure |
As it is still ultra low season, we pre book
on the cell and get a pretty good deal (R250 - about $CAN55.00 for the
night - this includes the 14% VAT).
Soaking
in the tub after yet another adrenalin pumping day, I agree with Aiden
that we will only be here once, and so we should head
off to Oudtshoorn - the world centre of Ostriches and ostrich farming.
At Mossel Bay, we eat out: finally we find real prices. This is a high tourist area, and the prices have doubled from what we are used to. Reality catches up with us.
At Mossel Bay, we eat out: finally we find real prices. This is a high tourist area, and the prices have doubled from what we are used to. Reality catches up with us.
 |
| We all (3 of us) sit on one of the large males Me? With all my Cradock fat, not sure if this is animal cruelty |
6:00AM, August 22nd. We are out, on the road into the interior again. Up over Robertsons Pass (1100m) by 7:00AM, and arrive at one
of the farms by 7:50.
The next hour, we are passing through the breeding farm, the
Feather Mansion, the hatchery and then the biology and anatomy of the
animals.
We all (3 of us) sit on one of the large males. Finally, what we had all been waiting for: the riding.
Unfortunately, it's a limit of 70Kg, so the adults are out.
Aiden & Kayla face no such restrictions, and they charge around, Aiden less sure than Kayla - wait for the movie - it's hilarious!
Aiden & Kayla face no such restrictions, and they charge around, Aiden less sure than Kayla - wait for the movie - it's hilarious!
After a breakfast, I change the batteries around (again!!?), and we head off to the Cape.
 |
| Heading to the "Garden Route". On the way, we pass through the Little Karoo, and stumble on this wonderful little place called Barrydale |
No whales, but we are told there were 4 earlier that day. This is an incredibly beautiful little town, mountains as a backdrop, lovely cliffs to walk across, and very relaxed and friendly: this is before the whales turn up.
We eat at the place recommended by everyone. Not as good as most places in land.
Time to sleep.
 |
| Hermanus Whale Watching Just a few metres off the rocks. Mum and new baby |
 |
| There are piles of them, some no more than 20 metres off the rocks we are standing on! Several around here. And you can hear them from our accommodation |
Now I'm off to a 4 x 4 garage to have the fuel line checked out (again). We head off to a local internet shop, to FTP some of the photo pix to the web site. Ouch - really expensive at $CAN8.00 per hour.
 |
| And you can hear them from our accommodation |
Just marvellous to simply sit and watch
Not sure if they should have been doing schoolwork though
Hermanus, as we discovered, is also the best pie making town in the world. Everything pie here is first class.
 |
| View from cliffs while whale watching Hermanus |
It's still South Africa and theft, violence and death could (but usually isn't) around the next bend in the road or corner of the street you are walking down
Fantastic meal, wine, view, even the local draught beer was some of the best I've ever had. What else does one need?
Canada will be difficult to deal with after this tour.
Canada will be difficult to deal with after this tour.
Distance travelled this entry: 450 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 400 Km
Sunday, August 27th, La Provence, Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa
 |
| Living the good life? Moi? Certainement! A trip to a winery for wine tasting This is one of many original wineries set up in the 17th Century by the Dutch Really ancient around here |
 |
| The scenic route along the coast road to Cape Town |
We have move around the coast, and headed inland to Stellenbosch, one of the major centres of wine making in Africa, even the world.
Today, I'm sitting on the veranda of our guest house on a winery estate (La Provence), 40Km from Cape Town, surrounded by vineyard with a glorious (that word is beginning to be overused here!) view of Table Bay.This is our last day here, and tomorrow, (Monday 28th. August), we head North for Namibia and the rest of the world up there.
 |
| Studying the principles of Quantum Physics. Or maybe the basics of shopping cart pushing |
The trip from Hermanus was slightly delayed and interrupted, when I found that the cruiser (is this beginning to sound familiar), had a fairly major oil leak - large enough to destroy a lump of the lawn we parked on (This was the first place we have stayed without night security, so we hid the van behind the house on the lawn)
Back to the 4 x 4 guy. We scratch about on the sump, and it looks like a screwdriver has been stuck through it.........
Don't ask me,
Calvin, the guy in charge had no idea either.
 |
| We get the kids to do some more schoolwork. Note view of Table Mountain |
Finally, we head off to Stellenbosch, along the coast road; it's stunning.
Your correspondent, actually writing this blog
on the veranda
on the veranda
The tourist accommodation centre in Stellenbosch finds this place.
It's EXACTLY what I was looking for. Once again, very cheap at $CAN50 a day; fully self contained, 3 bedroom, two bathroom,
braai (of course!) And thrown in, a stunning view of the local mountains and far off, Table Bay.
We are at an old winery that, during the "low" season, takes in guests - it's PERFECT!
We are at an old winery that, during the "low" season, takes in guests - it's PERFECT!
 |
| Our veranda with a view of the Cape Town mountains |
Friday, August 25th.
Off to Cape Town, for a trip up the mountain (Tabletop), but the cable
car is shut for maintenance (low season!), we
pick up my Economists from Post Restante at the central PO (Thanks
David!), a few bits and pieces like a replacement for the 110V
transformer for the portable compressor I blew up in Winterton, some
touristy things (Aiden tries his hand at bargaining for Ostrich
eggs), lots of books including a Lonely Planet for Zambia & Malawi
(this will almost certainly be our last book stop until we get
back to Jo'burg in November) and a great frozen coffee at Pier 4 in the
harbour.
The missus & kids head off to the Aquarium (haven't they had enough of this yet?), I listen to a group of guys harmonising on the quay while supping my iced coffee. As the sun goes down, I start to plan the trip North & East for the next 2 months.
Watch this space for details in future bulletins. From here on, it's all Africa!
Finally, Stellenbosch for disposing of our collected films and video
tapes, plus shipping out our curios, a few more e-mails, and a trip
to a winery for wine tasting, a chance for the kids to keep up their gymnastic and exercises, and dinner. Great wines, but dinner
leaves me a little open ended.
I only expected to be here for 2 days, but it is just so perfect, that this is now our fourth!
The missus & kids head off to the Aquarium (haven't they had enough of this yet?), I listen to a group of guys harmonising on the quay while supping my iced coffee. As the sun goes down, I start to plan the trip North & East for the next 2 months.
Watch this space for details in future bulletins. From here on, it's all Africa!
 |
| The kids to keep up their gymnastic and exercises |
I only expected to be here for 2 days, but it is just so perfect, that this is now our fourth!
All things must end. This is just sooooo
perfect that we have to go.
Today, our last here, we get the kids to do some more schoolwork, we sort out our laundry etc for the next leap, I catch up (FINALLY!) with this web stuff, and we braai and booze the evening away.
Today, our last here, we get the kids to do some more schoolwork, we sort out our laundry etc for the next leap, I catch up (FINALLY!) with this web stuff, and we braai and booze the evening away.
Distance travelled this entry: 200 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 125 Km
Distance moved on trip this entry: 125 Km
Thursday, August 31st,
Hobas, Southern Namibia
 |
| Heading out of Cape Town, early, through passes and orange groves That's early morning mists |
 |
| An orange shack near nowhere in particular. We get a full bag. Last a day or so. No elephants here |
It has been a blissfully non eventful day.
There are two overland outfits here, one going North, the other South. This seems to be quite a central
location for dropping in at.
We are settled in Hobas, a small campground about 10Km from the Northern entry point for the stream of hikers
who head off down the Fish River Canyon in this desolate Southern end of Namibia.
After Ai-Ais, this
is really a welcomed change, and a very pleasant place to simply chill out and maybe read a book, an
Economist or catch up on some schoolwork (?!) This is the first time we have actually camped since arriving in Africa. Apart from the (once again)
incessant dust, this is a great place to try out all of our camping equipment.
 |
| Can you believe that I'm still so nervous with the cruiser, I don't turn it off until we get somewhere safe |
 |
| Magnificent colours. We never saw any rain but they bloomed anyway |
 |
| To the horizon, suddenly everywhere, a glorious display of desert flowers -purples and yellows |
This is the starting point for the Fish Valley hike, and apart from a few
interested bystanders, we saw no one actually starting the hike, or even looking seriously at
contemplating it.
There are also a lot of other overlanding types here, but mainly local Namib
registrations, fly in and explore types.
Serious stars here, and just off to the North, a few stone statues, reminiscent of Inuit Inukshuks spot the desert. Arty stuff?
Serious stars here, and just off to the North, a few stone statues, reminiscent of Inuit Inukshuks spot the desert. Arty stuff?
August 27th.: Our trip from Cape Town to Springbok, passed pleasantly into a long cruise. We started
out at 8:00AM in totally 100% productive wine land, headed through country side that could have
been Sussex or Holland Landing, steadily
downgrading the fecundity index, through passes and orange groves, and by lunch time were deep into serious dry country at Vanrhynsdorp.
 |
Fairly serious desert roads ahead Ais-Ais to the left. At least there was a signpost |
downgrading the fecundity index, through passes and orange groves, and by lunch time were deep into serious dry country at Vanrhynsdorp.
As we headed North,
the landscape became only slightly able to support anything except a glorious display of desert flowers
-purples and yellows - and only at this time of the year, just before the spring rains.
Springbok suddenly appears at 3:30PM - 550KM in 7.5 hours. With gas and lunch stops, not bad.
This town appears to survive solely as a trans tourist place.
At the tourist office, the guy was good enough to phone Windhoek to book for us at Ai-Ais "fully booked" we are told.
In Springbok there are lots of guesthouses - we got a really good one with 3 bedrooms, 2 TV's, 1 bath, large kitchen and dining room ($CAN 62.00 including taxes), and allowed Ilge to have pasta ("I've had enough meat!").
Springbok suddenly appears at 3:30PM - 550KM in 7.5 hours. With gas and lunch stops, not bad.
 |
| After 2 months of the South Africa hospitality industry, this is a bit of a let down |
At the tourist office, the guy was good enough to phone Windhoek to book for us at Ai-Ais "fully booked" we are told.
In Springbok there are lots of guesthouses - we got a really good one with 3 bedrooms, 2 TV's, 1 bath, large kitchen and dining room ($CAN 62.00 including taxes), and allowed Ilge to have pasta ("I've had enough meat!").
 |
| Well, we are on vacation. Why not? We (probably) deserve it |
29th August
, and we finalise our camping and evening braiing bits, try the internet office in town (line
down), and arrive at the border at 12:00AM. Once again, easy passage, and surprise, here at this border
post with a population of 20, is a VAT (GST anyone?) refund office! Well, get out the receipts, and
one hour later we have an electronic refund for everything from salt ($CAN0.15) to the roof box
($CAN800.00).
Namibia is one hour behind SA - we make an extra hour.
Onward to Ai-Ais, only 150KM away.
Fairly serious desert roads, but we still travel at 90KPH. We expect to camp, but are told there is a lot of accommodation in flats. We'll take one, it's got air - it's not really necessary yet, but what the hell!, and a fridge - this is the luxury.
 |
| Tourist centre and refreshments (bring your own) |
Namibia is one hour behind SA - we make an extra hour.
Onward to Ai-Ais, only 150KM away.
 |
| Gloriously stunning view from the canyon rim |
After South Africa, this is definitely, half a star accommodation at 3 star prices, the guest book is full of praises from hikers, and complaints from non hikers. We move in and head off to the spa pool.
Dinner is from a set menu that looks as if it's been there for 20 years. We eat and I am pleasantly surprised. Finally off to the pool, me to study the stars, kids splashing around again, then the jacuzzi in the spa and by 8:45PM local, we are all out like a light.
August 30th. And we take in the pool, more or less all day. We probably deserve it! A few shots from the hills across the river, and we veg out. Just for a change, we braai our Springbok bits and off to bed again.
This morning was a simple 100Km jaunt (Cruiser not liking being ignored for a day, had a farting start up again), and after a quick detour to the top of the Fish River Canyon trek start, and another one at the sulphur springs, we decide to take the day off.
Distance travelled this entry: 900 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 875 Km
For us city dudes, even with a month of travelling behind us, a 60 degree rock face, a long way down a vertical drop over boulders the size of houses, is pretty intimidating.
This is our rite of passage. We - or at least each of our horses, have to negotiate their way 100 metres down to the river below. With only a half shod Lesotho pony between you and the bottom of the gorge, it’s a different matter to collecting your groceries at Safeway on Saturday mornings.
Once down, after a few slips and slides (none fatal), its a fantastic feeling to let the ponies relax before we head up the other, equally steep side of the gorge..
We, myself, Jim, Ilge and our two kids, Aiden (12) and Kayla (10) are starting out on a 4 day, 3 night pony excursion across the “roof of Africa” a totally remote and pretty desolate stretch of Lesotho. As we come up over the other lip of the gorge, there is a scenic village just ahead. Goats cattle and kids are going about their daily business.
There are only six of us, Ishmael our head guide and Albert his assistant. In support, a pony each plus a pack pony. We carry everything we need except water and cooking gas - even charcoal for our first nights barbecue. That's the way it is here.
Travelling on horseback into valleys and through mountain passes, we tend after a few more stumbles, to become fairly blasé about the treacherous footing under our mounts - that after all is the pony’s problem.
The interior is simply stunning, wild mountain passes often with snow underfoot, and ice on the streams. With only a short lunch stop, we have aches where we do not have places.
Our first nights stop is a village about 20 Km into the interior. We have our own mud hut next to the chief. Our guide directs us to a local waterfall, why not? A local lad takes us the 3 Km and we marvel again at Africa’s unspoilt beauty as the water cascades down 150 metres from the plateau above us.
We head back and share the narrow paths with the animals coming in for the night.
This village is situated on the side of a steep valley, we settle in and check out the area, this is obviously a tourist stop over - there is an easily accessible “long drop” toilet - definitely up market accommodation here.
Come 6:00PM, dusk passes in 10 minutes, and it’s pitch black. Candles and goat essence mingle to provide a rustic atmosphere. Our chicken and rice dinner (plus a warm white wine), pass into history, and we listen to the goats and cattle settle down in the enclosure, right next to our hut.
The moon rises over the far hills across the valley, and we collapse into our sleeping bags around 7:30. Lying on my mattress that night, I realise this would not be a good time to have a heart attack.
Our second day, and we are out of the village just after dawn, it’s really cold up here. Straight up the hills behind the village and we are up above the snow line. There is little more than brush and stunted saplings up here.
After 2 hours we are at the top of another pass, it looks flat, and Aiden, Kayla and I decide it’s time for a race. These two have never galloped before, now we are off for 3Km’s of pure bliss as the rocks and mountain glide past our field of vision. This is the life - for us anyway!
Come lunch, we are 30 clicks from the lodge, and only our guides know where we are. Totally devoid of any villagers, sounds, anything, it’s hard to remember Toronto, or even a city out here.
As we relax that evening at another village, I talk to Ishmael, “Why do you wear so much clothing” I ask, “I need it, you are fat, you do not”. Hmmmmm. A bit of local repartee methinks.
The circular huts are about 5 metres across and come with full mod cons, a bucket of water, a table, cooking gas (sometimes), cutlery, plates, four plastic chairs and 6 sleeping mattresses.
Everywhere you look, there is shit. Sometimes bona fide detritus, but still a lot of real shit.. It keeps the soil fertilised I guess. Out here, there are no supermarkets or even shops of any description, so even wrappers and plastic bags are nowhere to be seen
The village chief drops by to say hi, we chat in pidgin Sotho and English. As we have our two kids, we ask him how many children he has, “eight....... or nine I think” he replies thoughtfully.
Our third day and we are out even earlier. 5:45 AM up - it’s still dark.
Up and down some incredible rocky steep slopes. The winter sun warms us and the animals sense we are heading homeward.
Arriving at the third village, we realise we are early. The floor is still being worked on. Mud and cow shit (that shit thing again). Happy hours later, we have met the village kids and their animals. More return as the sun sets.
The propane gas tank is empty, its bean sandwiches tonight.
Heading back to Malealea, we see a strange sight - a car. Its amazing how we have come to treat our ponies as a standard mode of transport; the environment and the people as an everyday occurrence.
A final mad gallop for 5 K and we are back to the lodge.
A shower, laundry. A massive 12 inch T Bone with local red wine followed by the local choir lilting in Sotho around the camp fire. Oil drums, bits of tyres, spare string and beautiful harmonies against an African moon.
Next day, and we are off. The fee - 4 of us for the trip, plus two nights at the lodge $C764), and bid farewell to our host, Mick Jones to head off to the Garden Route.
This is truly an alternative to Club Med. It’s not for everyone, but it certainly worked for us..
Malealea is about 70KM South of Maseru, the capital of Lesotho which is served from Johannesburg South Africa.
 |
| Fish River Canyon, a huge valley in Namibia, modelled by Kayla |
 |
| Inukshuk, Bushman, or most probably Urbanman style |
 |
| Your correspondent avidly keeping |
August 30th. And we take in the pool, more or less all day. We probably deserve it! A few shots from the hills across the river, and we veg out. Just for a change, we braai our Springbok bits and off to bed again.
This morning was a simple 100Km jaunt (Cruiser not liking being ignored for a day, had a farting start up again), and after a quick detour to the top of the Fish River Canyon trek start, and another one at the sulphur springs, we decide to take the day off.
 |
| his public informed from the comfort of his current assignment |
Distance moved on trip this entry: 875 Km
Published in Now Feb 2002:
David: responding to your request for
alternate travel stories in Now Jan 17 - 23. I've got quite a few more
"alternates" if you are interested.
Sorry about the length. I wanted to get a the feel of the outback here.
Jim Smith.
Malealea Lodge, Pony Trekking, Lesotho, Africa
It’s all an easy trip for Ishmael our guide, but he does this every day -
more or less, depending on the tourists passing through this totally
remote and wild backwater in Southern Africa. Sorry about the length. I wanted to get a the feel of the outback here.
Jim Smith.
Malealea Lodge, Pony Trekking, Lesotho, Africa
For us city dudes, even with a month of travelling behind us, a 60 degree rock face, a long way down a vertical drop over boulders the size of houses, is pretty intimidating.
This is our rite of passage. We - or at least each of our horses, have to negotiate their way 100 metres down to the river below. With only a half shod Lesotho pony between you and the bottom of the gorge, it’s a different matter to collecting your groceries at Safeway on Saturday mornings.
Once down, after a few slips and slides (none fatal), its a fantastic feeling to let the ponies relax before we head up the other, equally steep side of the gorge..
We, myself, Jim, Ilge and our two kids, Aiden (12) and Kayla (10) are starting out on a 4 day, 3 night pony excursion across the “roof of Africa” a totally remote and pretty desolate stretch of Lesotho. As we come up over the other lip of the gorge, there is a scenic village just ahead. Goats cattle and kids are going about their daily business.
There are only six of us, Ishmael our head guide and Albert his assistant. In support, a pony each plus a pack pony. We carry everything we need except water and cooking gas - even charcoal for our first nights barbecue. That's the way it is here.
Travelling on horseback into valleys and through mountain passes, we tend after a few more stumbles, to become fairly blasé about the treacherous footing under our mounts - that after all is the pony’s problem.
The interior is simply stunning, wild mountain passes often with snow underfoot, and ice on the streams. With only a short lunch stop, we have aches where we do not have places.
Our first nights stop is a village about 20 Km into the interior. We have our own mud hut next to the chief. Our guide directs us to a local waterfall, why not? A local lad takes us the 3 Km and we marvel again at Africa’s unspoilt beauty as the water cascades down 150 metres from the plateau above us.
We head back and share the narrow paths with the animals coming in for the night.
This village is situated on the side of a steep valley, we settle in and check out the area, this is obviously a tourist stop over - there is an easily accessible “long drop” toilet - definitely up market accommodation here.
Come 6:00PM, dusk passes in 10 minutes, and it’s pitch black. Candles and goat essence mingle to provide a rustic atmosphere. Our chicken and rice dinner (plus a warm white wine), pass into history, and we listen to the goats and cattle settle down in the enclosure, right next to our hut.
The moon rises over the far hills across the valley, and we collapse into our sleeping bags around 7:30. Lying on my mattress that night, I realise this would not be a good time to have a heart attack.
Our second day, and we are out of the village just after dawn, it’s really cold up here. Straight up the hills behind the village and we are up above the snow line. There is little more than brush and stunted saplings up here.
After 2 hours we are at the top of another pass, it looks flat, and Aiden, Kayla and I decide it’s time for a race. These two have never galloped before, now we are off for 3Km’s of pure bliss as the rocks and mountain glide past our field of vision. This is the life - for us anyway!
Come lunch, we are 30 clicks from the lodge, and only our guides know where we are. Totally devoid of any villagers, sounds, anything, it’s hard to remember Toronto, or even a city out here.
As we relax that evening at another village, I talk to Ishmael, “Why do you wear so much clothing” I ask, “I need it, you are fat, you do not”. Hmmmmm. A bit of local repartee methinks.
The circular huts are about 5 metres across and come with full mod cons, a bucket of water, a table, cooking gas (sometimes), cutlery, plates, four plastic chairs and 6 sleeping mattresses.
Everywhere you look, there is shit. Sometimes bona fide detritus, but still a lot of real shit.. It keeps the soil fertilised I guess. Out here, there are no supermarkets or even shops of any description, so even wrappers and plastic bags are nowhere to be seen
The village chief drops by to say hi, we chat in pidgin Sotho and English. As we have our two kids, we ask him how many children he has, “eight....... or nine I think” he replies thoughtfully.
Our third day and we are out even earlier. 5:45 AM up - it’s still dark.
Up and down some incredible rocky steep slopes. The winter sun warms us and the animals sense we are heading homeward.
Arriving at the third village, we realise we are early. The floor is still being worked on. Mud and cow shit (that shit thing again). Happy hours later, we have met the village kids and their animals. More return as the sun sets.
The propane gas tank is empty, its bean sandwiches tonight.
Heading back to Malealea, we see a strange sight - a car. Its amazing how we have come to treat our ponies as a standard mode of transport; the environment and the people as an everyday occurrence.
A final mad gallop for 5 K and we are back to the lodge.
A shower, laundry. A massive 12 inch T Bone with local red wine followed by the local choir lilting in Sotho around the camp fire. Oil drums, bits of tyres, spare string and beautiful harmonies against an African moon.
Next day, and we are off. The fee - 4 of us for the trip, plus two nights at the lodge $C764), and bid farewell to our host, Mick Jones to head off to the Garden Route.
This is truly an alternative to Club Med. It’s not for everyone, but it certainly worked for us..
Malealea is about 70KM South of Maseru, the capital of Lesotho which is served from Johannesburg South Africa.
Mick operates a taxi service to
and from the airport.
(C) 2002 Jim Smith 416 710-3290
(C) 2002 Jim Smith 416 710-3290
Editors Note:
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
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| Addo Elephant Park |
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| Always something majestic about these guys |
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| I took it that this was a teens equivalent |
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| Of GobSmacked |
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| Kayla ended up with the Merch |
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| Flaunting it |
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| A trip around the park |
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| And we end up in the middle of a small herd |
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| Middle just about adequately describes it |
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| I stopped the van in the bush |
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| And let these guys feed around us |
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| Full matriarchal family |
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| As soon as mum took an interest |
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| I effected immediate evasive action |
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| A view from our veranda We are (as ever) lucky enough |
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| To get a cancellation, here Edna & Edni live it up |
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| South Africa obviously has a history |
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| Of middle classes (ie, white) living luxuriously as in hi quality vacation accomodation |
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| We head out for a ride in the park |
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| I wonder who instigated this |
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| Aiden has some riding experience |
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| And feels happy enough in the (Australian) saddle |
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| These are quite up market mounts after Lesotho |
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| Thoroughbreds all |
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| We take the tame route |
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| Which is really all we need |
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| But, not a pachyderm sausage to be seen |
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| But, horse rides in various locations |
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| Is a standard Koplimae-Smith expectation |
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| Of foreign travels |
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| This was one of the most exciting parts |
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| Which considering we were not really skilled enough for our mounts |
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| Was at least adequate |
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| We continue into the park |
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| And continue to experience pretty much, nothing |
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| As ever, the kids classmates, and my workmates, would be extremely envious |
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| The hack back, I still remember it) was incredibly dangerous, our mounts just wanting to get home, at speed |
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| Next stop, Oudtshoorn |
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| We arrive very early, around 8:30 |
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| These guys have a tourist program On demand apparently |
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| We are the only ones and at 8:30 |
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| We are well into the tour. We all indulge |
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| No saddles for these guys |
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| And I'm too heave to do much more than |
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| Play with it's neck (it's weird) |
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| Well, as Aiden and I reasoned, we will never do this again |
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| Kayla light enough and brave enough |
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| To try a mad dash around the enclosure |
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| These guys really charge around |
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| Obviously a successful encounter |
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| Not necessarily a natural |
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| But Kayla certainly enjoyed the ecperience |
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| And the farm hands finally corral the fun |
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| Can we have the next contestant right in here please |
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| Aiden not exactly certain about this |
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| But ready to find out |
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| You really need to hang on once they start running |
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| Totally unpredictable, but Aiden seems to be in control here |
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| And having as much fun as Kayla |
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| We all thought it was a scary ride fore him, |
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| but obviously, not at all |
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| Hopefully, this will help show the kids what is possible in life |
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| We move on to Hermanus |
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| Very dangerous here, but I guess we have full confidence in the kids |
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| But not in the locals One of our dissuasion sticks, which we sense |
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| Are necessary here. This of the town |
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| Eventually we got, if not bored, at least jaded by it all |
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| Just massive numbers |
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| In a picture perfect environment |
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| We were standing next to some locals here |
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| Listening to a diatribe of "dreadful parents" |
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| The local footpath to town Don't try this on your own at night apparently |
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| The kids survive, unscathed |
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| And our tourism duties continue |
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| I believe these are "Right" whales |
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| Family all hard at Work |
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| Early morning (our last here) and we are up very early for more |
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| And more, much more, there are |
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| Our dining experience of last night. Excellent grub here |
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| Several, just off the breakwater |
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| It's not grape picking season |
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| So these workers accomodation |
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| Are rented out to itinerant tourists |
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| It's perfect for just looking at the possibilities in life |
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| Which I guess, we all still have back in 2000 |
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| Tolstoy Happy Family maybe |
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| Why not...... |
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| Looks positive to me |
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| From this angle anyway...... |
To be continued
From your Correspondent, December 12th. 2025
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