Thursday, August 17th, Malealea Lodge, Lesotho
Our continuing South African Trek: Malealea - Luderitz
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| Your correspondent avidly keeping his public informed from the comfort of his home |
An entirely new venture for us has just been completed.
Where do I start?
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| Malealea by Moonlight |
Malealea? Indeed, this lodge has become something of a location celebre for out and out different
adventuring. It's located about 80Km South West of Maseru, almost hidden in a valley with and
incredible view of the Matalile mountain range. The owners Mick& Di Jones bought the lodge in 1986
when it was still a kind of trading post, and have turned it into a centre for hiking, 4 x 4 off road and
pony trekking into the interior of Lesotho. It was originally built in 1895 by a (wayward) Brit as a
trading post, almost exclusively because it had one of the best views in the world!
Mick is the on site manager while Di looks after the marketing and
information details in Bloemfontein about 200KM away..
August 13th.
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These guys all play "instruments made from junk and trash"
The sound and singing is truly magical under the stars |
Mick meets us after we arrive from Marakabei Lodge at 2:00PM. After we leave the
mountains about 50Km from Maseru , Lesotho begins to resemble other parts of Africa. It's a pretty
boring road except for the last 4Km. Once you reach the "Gates of Paradise Pass" just above Malealea;
things start to look up.
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Kayla's dream, from a year ago begins
This is the easy bit.
Just tourist trotting until we reach the sheer drop |
We head through two wire gates, the first contains the guides and horses, the second, the lodge itself.
Lots of horses and locals waiting for something to happen. The gate guy finds the man, and we meet
Mick. He immediately recognises my name from my e-mailing of February. We head off to his office/
house for a cup of tea, and he decides on where we will
stay and what organise our dining
arrangements. This has been the highlight of the tour for Kayla since I told her about it in March bar
none. She wants the full 6 nights/ seven day grand tour.
We think about what tour of the interior we will be taking as we move into our chalet - a trailer home,
meanwhile, clothes go off to the laundry and we relax, late lunch with an incredible view of the
mountains, and enjoy a sundowner or two on the bar verandah. What a life.
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| Oh wow! This is nothing like Toronto folks |
After a bottle of wine, and a few well selected arm twists from Kayla, we all (mostly) decide on a 4 day
3 nighter into the mountains. Mick is informed, and all is arranged. We go at first light (9:30AM).
At dusk, there is a band show: local kids put on a band and/ or a choir show. Tonight it's the band.
Totally home made instruments, old cans, bits of wood and tyres make as good a beating and
strumming implement as a Ludwig (well maybe not quite as good). Remember, there is next to nothing
for these kids, so they all have
Dinner is a glorious African Backwater buffet: soup, stew, truly marvellous, cheesecake pud thing.
No peace here, we need to organise for 4 days where we expect there to be literally nothing, and maybe
less. There are two large bags for day to day, and two sleeping bag packs for the pack pony, plus a
saddlebag for each rider.
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After 4 hours we could hardly get out of the saddles
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| Our first river after a 60 degree bolder and rocks ride down |
August 14th.: After a few more cans and crackers from the local store are packed, we meet Ismail our
guide, and our ponies. We are supposed to have wet weather gear, hats, winter gear, decent riding boots,
sun protecting clothing etc. We have a jacket each, no hats, pumps for riding and wear tank tops (except
the missus of course) - sound familiar?
One hour into the ride, we see what was meant by "testing the riders nerves". There is a beautiful
canyon ahead of us, unfortunately, we have to go down it. The trick is to lean back going down and
forward going up. The pony manages whatever you do. My digital camera batteries die as we head
down - no pix for this one folks! (This thing chews up power - avoid Kodak digipix!)
At
the bottom of the gorge, we stop to have a drink and marvel at our lucky escape from almost certain
death. Ismail tells us no one has ever fallen off.
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We were told it took about 20 minutes to get here
We were totally knackered after 1 hour+
Our guide had no problem |
Another 2 hours of riding, and we are getting into serious back lands here. Lunch time, we are on a hill
top, there are no trees, bushes, and little grass. Lots of kids shepherding cattle, sheep, goats, several horses
around. We find some rocks and hobble to them. Once again, bums and legs ache. A shepherd boy plays
his tin can fiddle just for fun a few metres away through our chompings.
People we meet smile and say hello or the Sotho equivalent. They obviously see tourist on horseback
quite often out here. The landscape is pretty bleak.
By 3:00PM, we are at our overnight accommodation. The ponies are totally crapped out - it's been a
long way up and down. The pack pony is a bundle of sweat - it's glad to get rid of it's load.
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I found this truly wonderful. totally amazing to be out here
Plus, with the family too |
This village is simply a
few mud huts (rondavels), lots of kids, many more sheep, goats, chickens and
cattle. The
hut is circular and about 4 metres across. It's equipped with five thin plastic mattresses, a
table, a gas burner, plates, cutlery, 4 chairs, two stools, a mud floor, some dust, a door, two "windows"
and a bucket of "spring water". There is a long drop 20 metres down the hill with a truly incredible
view of the valley to ponder during our exertions. Everything else we have to have with us, or it's not
available till we get back.
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We have zero idea where we have come from
Or going to for that matter |
After moving in, we are off to a local waterfall - an hour and a bit away. Our guide is about 8 years
old.It's a tough walk too, especially bearing in mind our bums & legs.
Very pretty it is, and once again,
the river water is taken as being clean enough to drink - we already needed tests anyway! We'll see if
we wake up alive tomorrow.
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| "First" thing, probably about 7:30AM |
We came this way as we wanted to braii some chicken and this was the only village that has a grill!
Amazing to think that the gas burner in our hut is probably the most sophisticated equipment within 25
Km. I ask our guide for 12 eggs from the residents - no problem - here's breakfast, lunch and probably a
few heart problems some when in a few years time. 60cents each. The lady does not know what 12 x
0.60 is. Aiden & I draw the maths in the sand.
There is shit, garbage (not so much the western idea of garbage - these people cannot afford any such
luxuries wrapped or otherwise), but bits of bones, maize cobs, plastic bags, scraps of rags. Dust and dirt
and more dust. Imagine Algonquin Park at 7000 feet, little rainfall, no trees, poor soil and 1 million
people living there for a thousand year. Now imagine living there on $20.00 per year for this time.
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| Kayla's dream continues. Mine too I guess |
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Beautiful as a tourist.
Born and raised here? Maybe not so |
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| Bad Hair Day. Sunrise and its a long way to a shower. |
In order to use the braai (in reality this turns out to be a bucket with holes in it), we had to bring our own
charcoal. Dinner proceeds complete with burnt spuds and roasties - just like home! We finish our
sundowner - a light chardonnay as the sun sets. By 7:00PM, candle power (we brought 3), is the only
light and we are totally wanked out.
August 15th: The local roosters start around 5:30AM. The sheep and goats have been complaining most of the
night. They are right in front of our hut, which is right next to the chiefs hut - a place of honour for us.
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It's a long way to get home
and none of us even know which direction it is |
Our guides are up soon after, and have the ponies ready by 6:30. I find a lamb which was locked out of
the enclosure last night, as I enter the long drop. Neither of us expected this, but we exclude each other,
and both get on with our allotted tasks.
Coffee, black, a few leftovers and some eggs later and we get our acts together by 8:30.
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Way up the mountains, lunch.
Our bodies complaining constantly now |
Back in the saddle, we climb into the hills above the village, up, and up. Always with the sun on our left
- heading West for another day - this is really heading to central nowhere.
Over the pass - probably around 2000m+. Here we are above the snow line - we are lucky - it's spring.
There is ice on the southern sides of the mountains and the streams are frozen as we tramp through
them. It's a beautiful sunny day - yet another beautiful sunny day in Southern Africa!
Lunch again is anywhere
we stop, again, rocks and views. Our bones are no longer complaining, we
simply smell a lot now.
We reach our next village by 2:30. We get off our horses a little easier today! Edna & Edni enjoy
themselves with their special viewing location.
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| This is not the place to have a heart attack or an embolism folks |
A
larger rondavel and lots of mattresses - even more comfortable than last night. There is another falls
nearby, but we opt for an easy night. There is a woman winnowing wheat until sunset.
Ismail & I chat about the area etc. We talk about the snows in winter, planting seasons and how many
kids/ wives he has (one of each). I ask him why he has so many layers of clothes on (two sweaters and
an overall boiler suit), compared to my single thin tee shirt. Succinctly he pinpoints the issue: "Yes, but
you are fat" he explains.
At our suite, another shepherd boy passes outside playing his fiddle as he leads his sheep into the stone
enclosure, once again, just below our rondavel. Aiden is "mattress master" and organises our sleeping
area.
Sunset at 6:00. It's a full moon. This is an added bonus as we brush our teeth - we can see without the
candles. As we wash, the soap often drops into the dirt (see references to "shit" above). This is certainly
an experience quite different to just about any other we have ever been on!
We are lying in our sleeping bags, on our mattresses (an idle tourist luxury here), 5 cm off the floor by
6:30PM. The dust gets into your skin, into your nose, into your food, drink.... everything.
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Endless valleys, peaks, passes, streams and rivers.
Magnificent |
I stay awake awhile (not totally exhausted yet). This is not the place you need to have a sudden pain in
your chest!
We all awake early, weetabix, hot water and jam (jam?), black coffee and are able to get out earlier too
- 7:50 today,
August 16th. We have been in Africa for 6 weeks!
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Head em off at the pass.
Then down an almost vertical slope, again |
The way we have found to get the ponies to go, is to shout "hai, HAI" at them, and beat them with the
reigns around the neck. This gets to be a bit amusing as "hai" sounds a lot like "Hi!" to the ponies who
are obviously unaware that the slight difference in pronunciation have very different meanings for
action.
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| Some of the headsman's 8 (or 9 he says) children |
On the way to our next village, there is a relatively flat valley, so Aiden, Kayla & I are off to test out
our steeds. Surrounded by
ice covered peaks, and
stringy bushes and slow running stream paths, we
gallop across the landscape. Once our mounts know that we are capable of staying on at these speeds,
"HAI," and "Hi" appear to become interchangeable, and no one seems to mind. Our guides think this
charging around is a great laugh, and we pass a few hours this way. What a life.
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| Art in austerity |
We arrive at 1:30, very early, probably due to our galloping around. Our final night in the bush (bald
lumps of rock would cover it better). Our guides unsaddle the horses and head off to greener pastures
somewhere. The
local kids gather around.
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God knows how they grow
anything except plastic bags here |
Our check in time is a little later - the floor is being refreshed, mud and cow shit seems to be the
accepted mix here. The previous contents of our apartment is outside while the floor is fixed. We wait
on the chairs, in the shade of the newly blossoming cherry (?) tree. The floor dries slowly, but we are in
around 3:00. You do not stay here if you have asthma! It's almost noxious in here.
Ilge talks to the local headman - the usual children things,
"how many do you have?" he asks,
"two" she answers,
"and you?" she requests,
"eight, or nine" he replies.
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Heading back, I'm told, but none of us would know.
We could be navigating the moon |
We find there is no gas anywhere, so we borrow a kettle of hot water
from the hut next door. Tea on the verandah. Lots of small kids, some
with malnourished bellies scoot around in front of us. One of them suddenly
run down the hill. There is the sound of a large fart, and everyone
collapses with laughter.
Our guides eventually return at dusk, and try to find some parrafin
for some heating. There are gone for nearly an hour to the next two
villages and return with none. Cold cans of beans and peaches tonight.
Kayla has 4 weetabix with cold water and sugar. A communal Ugh!
Breakfast, well, we make do with a cold can of beans, and head off early at 7:30.
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The not so long road home.
"Hai" to the locals gets you there much faster |
Now we turn around with the sun on our right - moving East. (Here the sun is in the North, and moves
from right to left remember). Out of the village, (we were told their names, but I've forgotten them),
once again,
up, up over the pass. Our pack pony is now definitely frisky with next to no load except the
trash we are bringing back with us. It has been a pain since it could move around easier as it feels it
should be ahead of us back riders -
Kayla & Aiden always lead, and keeps cutting in - often on
precipitous slopes.
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Having ridden a fair amount, letting horses drink
when they are thirsty is supposed to be very problematic. |
At the
top of the pass, we see we have to head down at least 500 metres to the valley floor in front of us.
There is no way you can negotiate these hills and trails without a guide - it all looks exactly the same to
us. This is a longer drop down and as I've ever seen, I'm changing the camera gear (in our trusty
camera backpack) as we move down. Digital camera, video and 35mm SLR (with either 35/70 zoom or
100/300 zoom). Getting good shots is a problem with all as the subject and the photographer move all
the time - whether you intend to or not!
As we head through a village - first vehicle we've seen in days, we gallop off past the locals who have a
great laugh as they see us charging along. More "Hai's" produce more gallops.
Eventually, after
another gorge,
we are back to the first gorge we had our first palpitations 4 days
ago. Lunch at the bottom tinned beef (beef hearts, beef fat and beef),
and once again, beans, peaches and cookies help us survive.
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| Time to head home folks |
Once up the nearly vertical face, (by now I'm totally fed up with photo's), more galloping back and we
are in Malealea again.
Where's the shower?
We organise ourselves, laundry, grub, dispose of trash etc.
The choir sings tonight. Beautiful harmonies. We sup on our Cabernet Sauvignon till they finish.
Piece of resistance: Dinner is massive T-bones that literally fill the plate. After cold beans for a day,
this is a feast. It was probably a feast in it's own right anyway! Aiden & Kayla both get one, and both
finish it! Fantastic evening. The generator is off at 10:00PM, and we sleep the sleep of the cleansed and
accomplished.
Paradise is nearly over.
Tomorrow, we are off back to reality, time to grease the door locks, and charge the cell phone.
Distance travelled this entry: 225 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 125 Km
Sunday, August 20th,
Addo Elephant National Park, Eastern Cape, South Africa
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Cradock: Positively Jane Austen, as it is meant to be.
All cottages renovated to be exactly as originally intended
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The Karoo. It's big, dry and totally barren
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Addo Elephant Park.
A special reserve for endangered elephants
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As I type up my series to date, out here on the verandah of our
chalet in this park, I look up to see a string of elephants heading off
to
the local watering hole. It's 1:00PM - the heat of the day. There is a
lot of trumpeting as 20, 40, 70, 90? elephants come out of the
bush about 1 Km away across the bush hills heading for the water hole,
just by the reception centre.
This is Addo National Park, set up specifically in 1923 to protect
the (13) remaining Addo elephants. We sneak in here on a hope and
a prayer: it's Saturday; most places are full. We call ahead on the
cell, nothing available. What the hell, lets try anyway.
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No more than a metre from the van. It was such a fantastic sensation
Having these huge animals within reaching distance |
We arrive about 1:30, and are told the same story, I ask if there is a
waiting list/ any chance. We become the waiting list. At the water
hole, about 100 metres away, are about 90/ 100 elephants, lots of
babies.
The game park beckons us, and we head off for a tour of the grounds.
First we have a real interrogation with the guard. Oranges send the Elephants berserk. Are you SURE you don't have any in the van?
Lots of ostriches, hartebeest, occasional eland and kudu. Around a bend, elephants. We stop the car and wait. You can hear them
chewing, occasional shadows and shapes but not many of the real thing. Move on and suddenly we are
surrounded by them, a little
closer, and this time they are no more than 2 metres away.
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Looks harmless doesn't it
Do not try this at home
or with thoroughbreds! |
Back at the ranch, and we are told that there is one chalet left, would we like it?
Braiing and wine tasting takes up the rest of the evening.
The trip from Malealea to here was apart from the cruiser not
starting (?$#$%$%^!) was very pleasant. On the Friday we left, the
diesel had a huge air lock in the fuel pipe, and I did not have any
diesel, or know how as in to know how to fix it. Mick eventually got back
from a pick up drive, & was able to give me some diesel to prime the
pump/ pipes. Even with this, it still took a lot of coaxing to
start. Masses of black smoke erupting from the exhaust, and hesitating
on pick up even without any load! Oh shit - what next?
Eventually, we leave after giving Mick our old clothes, including some
of our winter coats - he uses them in exchange for various
environmental/ work stuff done by the locals. At the gates, Aiden &
Kayla buy one of the locally made horse whips each. They are
about 6 feet long! How will we get these home?
The destination for Friday night is Cradock in the Free State.
Through the border, once again, it takes longer to find out where we
go, than to pass through. We pay the R5.00 "toll" out of Lesotho
and within 5 minutes, we are officially back in S.A. - Too easy.
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| There's no predators here, except maybe eagles and Meerkats |
There follows a long drive (the longest yet), of another 350 Km
across Free State. We pass the time by getting Aiden & Kayla to read
up on SA in our Lonely Planet guide - quite without exception,
indispensable!
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| More life's ambitions achieved here for Kayla |
After
a Wimpy meal in Aliwal North, we are on the road and arrive at Die
Tuishuise Guesthouse at 6:45. We move into a truly
gloriously restored Victorian cottage on a whole street full of similar
cottages. It's TOTALLY amazing (yes this is Smitho saying
this!). Beautifully conceived with a theme, and even actual real period
antiques to go with
each room,
from a maize grinder, to a
rocking horse. It is TOTALLY stunning. The kids get in first, and claim
the four poster bed as theirs! We are awe struck by it all. But
wait, as the adverts say, that's not all. We opt for the "full package"
including dinner at the Victoria Hotel at the end of the street.
We forgot to "dress" for dinner! We are met by our hostess in the
hotel lounge, and over a glass or two of sherry (medium please),
we discuss the never ending attractions and trepidations, in equal
measure of glorious South Africa.
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| Kayla preparing for the Ostrich racing |
After nearly an hour of conversing, we join the other guests for a
truly outrageous buffet , a whole table full of "Karoo Fare"
including goodies such as kudu stew , leg of lamb and chicken. After we
had pick out on this, it was all cleared and another set of
grub was presented! PIG OUT! Of course, this had to be followed by pud.
This all for R160.00 including the kids - thats about
$CAN35.00. I think we will all be really fat upon our return after this
type of evening.
(Editors note: Too true, I put on about 15lbs which took 6 months to get rid of)
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| Aiden & Kayla testing egg dynamics |
The Lonely Planet was right, this place is worth a big detour for!
As it is 10:00PM here, we do a pile of calling - about an hour (it
costs about $3.50/ minute from here!), and catch up with various
non action at home.
In the morning, (
August 19th.) It's off for breakfast - there is a slow flat on the cruiser. Off to the garage for a quick fix while
breakfasting. Once again, I turn the batteries around for voltage balancing - this is a real pain!
On our way out of Cradock, the cruiser judders to yet another fuel
(lack of) induced halt. Eventually we start, and I'm not stopping
till we get somewhere!
We make it here without further incident (there really is a dog!)
For everyone's information, today, the kids are doing some school
work, about 4 - 6 hours per week so far, but, we are doing some.
Today it's maths, (by far the most popular), French (Aiden actually
enjoying his book!), and some Canadiana.
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| Kayla is quite at home on this one, even without a saddle |
After this, we are off for a horse ride actually in the park -
just the three of us
and the guide,. Sounds great, but it's very tame, only
ostriches, kudu, and hartebeest. There are supposed to be 400+ elephants
and 15 Black Rhino's here.
All the way through the park(3
hours), the horses - no Basotho ponies these!, full racing stock here,
need a VERY tight reign. Kayla gets kicked by the other two
horses (ouch!) As they are very highly strung. We stop
at a tree in the centre of the park
for a break. Still nothing - even here. By the
time we
gallop back to the stables, we are all pretty bored - can you imagine!
This has been one of our quite days!
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Aiden is not so sure about this
Much family amusements here |
August 21st: I want to get to Cape Town in a day (about
600+ Km), well, we can try. At 6:00AM, we are out for our final game
drive
at Addo, not much in the way of animals - more ostriches, lightening,
and some rain is the highlight of the outing. A quick breakfast,
and we are out again onto the open road.
Distance travelled this entry: 600 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 600 Km
Wednesday, August 23rd,
Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
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| Living the good life? Moi? Certainement! |
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| Me? With all my Cradock fat, not sure if this is animal cruelty |
As I sit here in a wonderful B&B in a glorious town of Hermanus, I
have the misfortune to be watching TV which is pretty much the
usual US crap. "Oprah" really gives me some perspective on society (as
if I needed any more perspective). It's full of people who are
"angry", or "insecure" or "jealous" or "depressed", and there is an
emotional "guru" advising these people how to overcome these life
threatening pains.
Driving through Southern Africa, seeing the poverty and absolute lack
of not only material, but in many cases, the lack of any chance
of any material.
I digress!
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| Aiden is still not so sure |
After leaving Addo on Aug 21
st., about 200Km out onto the Garden Route, we smell diesel. I ignore it.
At a toll booth 40 Km down from where it started to smell, we finally stop, pay and I check it out.
The diesel fuel filter has ruptured with a hairline crack. It's
pissing out everywhere and there is a pool under the machine within a
few
seconds.
I have a spare filter and a tool, but it's for the larger oil filter,
but cannot get this one onto the filter. Time to call the AA. Ha! I'm
on
file with my Canadian AA card. A mechanic calls on the cell, but I still
try to fix it myself - I only need the tool to work for dogs
sake!
After careful analysis, I turn the tool upside down, and Voila! We are on the road again.
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Heading to the "Garden Route".
Slowly, the place becomes a lot greener |
Off to George for a large!! Fish lunch, then down to Mossel Bay for
our evenings retreat. As it is still ultra low season, we pre book
on the cell and get a pretty good deal (R250 - about $CAN55.00 for the
night - this includes the 14% VAT).
Soaking
in the tub after yet another adrenalin pumping day, I agree with Aiden
that we will only be here once, and so we should head
off to Oudtshoorne - the world centre of Ostriches and ostrich farming.
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Hermanus Whale Watching
Just a few metres off the rocks. Mum and new baby |
At Mossel Bay, we eat out: finally we find real prices. This is a
high tourist area, and the prices have doubled from what we are used
to. Reality catches up with us.
6:00AM, August 22nd. We are out, on the road into the interior again. Up over Robertsons Pass (1100m) by 7:00AM, and arrive at one
of the farms by 7:50.
The next hour, we are passed through the
breeding farm, the Feather Mansion, the hatchery and then the biology and anatomy of the
animals. We all (3 of us)
sit on
one of the
large males. Finally, what we had all been waiting for: the riding.
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Several around here.
And you can hear them from quite a way off too
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Unfortunately, it's a limit of 70Kg, so the adults are out.
Aiden & Kayla face no such restrictions, and they charge around,
Aiden less sure than Kayla - wait for the movie - it's hilarious!
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Your correspondent, actually writing this blog
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After a breakfast, I change the batteries around (again!!?), and we head off to the Cape.
On the way, we pass through the Little Karoo, and stumble on this wonderful little place called
Barrydale.
We have a great lunch,
and the proprietress tells us that one of South Africa's best kept
secrets, Hermanus, is currently the place for whale watching. So,
what else can we do? We arrive at 4:00PM, and get a B&B fairly
easily - low season remember.
No whales, but we are told there were 4 earlier that day.
This is an incredibly beautiful little town, mountains as a backdrop,
lovely cliffs to walk across, and very relaxed and friendly: this is
before the whales turn up.
We eat at the place recommended by everyone. Not as good as most places in land. Time to sleep.
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| The scenic route to Cape Town |
August 23rd. head off to the local bays actually in town to check out the local mammals. There are piles of them, some no more than
20 metres
off the rocks we are standing on! Incredible,
we do not need a boat for this. They make a lot of noise! We watch for an
hour or more, and they eventually
drift off toward the town.
Now
I'm off to a 4 x 4 garage to have the fuel line checked out (again). We
head off to a local internet shop, to FTP some of the
photo pix to the web site. Ouch - really expensive at $CAN8.00 per hour.
Pick up the machine, and "absolutely nothing wrong" I tell him I'll remember that next time it refuses to start.
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Just marvellous to simply sit and watch
Not sure if they should have been doing schoolwork though |
Evening finds us at the harbour restaurant, we bring Aiden &
Kayla's hiking sticks to ward off unwanted attention on the dark roads
as we walk back to the B&B. Fantastic meal, wine, view, even the
local draught beer was some of the best I've ever had. What else
does one need?
Canada will be difficult to deal with after this tour.
Distance travelled this entry: 450 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 400 Km
Sunday, August 27th,
La Provence, Stellenbosch, Western Cape, South Africa
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Studying the principles of Quantum Physics.
Or maybe the basics of shopping cart pushing |
We have move around the coast, and headed inland to Stellenbosch, one of the major centres of wine making in Africa, even the world..
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This is one of many original wineries set up in the 17th Century
Really ancient around here |
Today, I'm sitting on
the veranda of our guest house on a winery estate (La Provence), 40Km from Cape Town, surrounded by
vineyard with a glorious (that word is beginning to be overused here!) view of Table Bay.
This is our last day here, and tomorrow,
(Monday 28th. August), we head North for Namibia and the rest of the world up there.
Our host at the Hermanus guest house, knocked on our door at 7:30AM
to tell us the whales had been in the local bay since 2:00AM,
and had woken them up. You could hear them snorting from the house
"making a hellofanoise!". We are our, yes indeed, piles of
them around the harbour, at least 6 within 200 metres, several outside
the wall, and two breaching out in the bay! We stay till we are
(almost) bored.
 |
Heading out of Cape Town, early.
That's early morning mists |
Hermanus, as we discovered, is also the best pie making town in the world. Everything pie here ir first class.
The trip from Hermanus was slightly interrupted, when I found that
the cruiser (is this beginning to sound familiar), had a fairly major
oil leak - large enough to destroy a lump of the lawn we parked on (This
was the first place we have stayed without night security, so
we hid the van behind the house on the lawn) .
Back to the 4 x 4 guy. We scratch about on the sump, and it looks
like a screwdriver has been stuck through it......... Don't ask me,
Calvin, the guy in charge had no idea either.
He glues it up with some epoxy, and I'm off back to the Internet café to finish off the pix and the new diary web files.
Finally, we head off to Stellenbosch, along the
coast road; it's stunning.
The tourist accommodation centre in Stellenbosch finds this place.
 |
An orange shack near nowhere in particular.
We get a full bag. Last a day or so. No elephants here |
It's EXACTLY what I was looking for. Once again, very cheap at $CAN50 a day; fully self contained, 3 bedroom, two bathroom,
braai (of course!) And thrown in, a stunning view of the local mountains and far off, Table Bay.
We are at an old winery that, during the "low" season, takes in guests - it's PERFECT!
Friday,
August 25th.
Off to Cape Town, for a trip up the mountain (Tabletop), but the cable
car is shut for maintenance (low season!), we
pick up my Economists from Post Restante at the central PO (Thanks
David!), a few bits and pieces like a replacement for the 110V
transformer for the portable compressor I blew up in Winterton, some
touristy things (Aiden tries his hand at bargaining for Ostrich
eggs), lots of books including a Lonely Planet for Zambia & Malawi
(this will almost certainly be our last book stop until we get
back to Jo'burg in November) and a great frozen coffee at Pier 4 in the
harbour.
 |
Magnificent colours.
We never saw any rain but they bloomed anyway |
The missus & kids head off to the Aquarium (haven't they had
enough of this yet?), I listen to a group of guys harmonising on the
quay while supping my iced coffee. As the sun goes down, I start to plan
the trip North & East for the next 2 months.
Watch this space for details in future bulletins. From here on, it's all Africa!
Finally, Stellenbosch for disposing of our collected films and video
tapes, plus shipping out our curios, a few more e-mails, and a trip
to a winery for
wine tasting, a chance for the kids to keep up their gymnastic and
exercises, and dinner. Great wines, but dinner
leaves me a little open ended.
I only expected to be here for 2 days, but it is just so perfect,
that this is now our fourth! All things must end. This is just sooooo
perfect that we have to go.
Today, our last here, we get
the kids to do some
more schoolwork, we sort out our laundry etc for the next leap, I catch up
(FINALLY!) with this web stuff, and we braai and booze the evening away.
 |
| To the horizon, suddenly flowers everywhere |
Distance travelled this entry: 200 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 125 Km
Thursday, August 31st,
Hobas, Southern Namibia
The sun is setting as
I type this up. It has been a blissfully non eventful day.
This is Hobas, a small campground about 10Km from the Northern entry point for the stream of hikers
who head off down the Fish River Canyon in this desolate Southern end of Namibia. After Ai-Ais, this
is really a welcomed change, and a very pleasant place to simply
chill out and maybe read a book, an
Economist or catch up on some schoolwork (?!)
This is the first time we have actually camped since arriving in Africa. Apart from the (once again)
incessant dust, this is a great place to try out all of our camping equipment.
 |
Can you believe that I'm still so nervous with the cruiser,
I don't turn it off until we get somewhere safe |
There are two overland outfits here, one going North, the other South. This seems to be quite a central
location for dropping in at. This is the starting point for the Fish Valley hike, and apart from a few
interested bystanders, we saw no one actually starting the hike, or even looking seriously at
contemplating it. There are also a lot of other overlanding types here, but mainly local Namib
registrations, fly in and explore types.
Serious stars here, and just off to the North, a few stone statues, reminiscent of Inuit Inukshuks spot
the desert.
Arty stuff?
August 27th.: Our trip from Cape Town to Springbok, passed pleasantly into a long cruise. We started
out at 8:00AM in totally 100% productive wine land, headed through country side that could have
been Sussex or Holland Landing, steadily
 |
Ais-Ais to the left. At least there was a signpost
|
downgrading the fecundity index,
through passes and orange
groves, and by lunch time were deep into serious dry country at Vanrhynsdorp. As we headed North,
the landscape became only slightly able to support anything except a
glorious display of
desert flowers
-
purples and yellows - and only at this time of the year, just before the spring rains.
Springbok suddenly appears at 3:30PM - 550KM in 7.5 hours. With gas and lunch stops, not bad.
This town appears to survive solely as a trans tourist place.
At the tourist office, the guy was good
enough to phone Windhoek to book for us at Ai-Ais "fully booked" we are told.
 |
After 2 months of the South Africa hospitality industry,
this is a bit of a let down |
In Springbok there are lots of guesthouses - we got a really good one with 3 bedrooms, 2 TV's, 1 bath,
large kitchen and dining room ($CAN 62.00 including taxes), and allowed Ilge to have pasta ("I've
had enough meat!").
 |
| Well, we are on vacation. Why not? We (probably) deserve it |
 |
Fish River Canyon, a huge valley in Namibia,
modelled by Kayla |
29th August, and we finalise our camping and evening braiing bits, try the internet office in town (line
down), and arrive at the border at 12:00AM. Once again, easy passage, and surprise, here at this border
post with a population of 20, is a VAT (GST anyone?) refund office! Well, get out the receipts, and
one hour later we have an electronic refund for everything from salt ($CAN0.15) to the roof box
($CAN800.00).
Namibia is one hour behind SA - we make an extra hour.
Onward to Ai-Ais, only 150KM away.
 |
| Gloriously stunning view from the canyon rim |
 |
| Tourist centre and refreshments (bring your own) |
Fairly serious
desert roads, but we still travel at 90KPH. We expect to camp, but are told there is a lot of accommodation in flats. We'll take one, it's got air - it's not really necessary yet, but what the hell!, and a fridge - this is the luxury. After South Africa, this is definitely, half a star accommodation at 3 star prices, the guest book is full of praises from hikers, and complaints from non hikers. We move in and head off to the spa pool.
Dinner is from a set menu that looks as if it's been there for 20 years. We eat and I am pleasantly surprised. Finally off to the pool, me to study the stars, kids splashing around again, then the jacuzzi in the spa and by 8:45PM local, we are all out like a light.
 |
| Inukshuk, Bushman, or most probably Urbanman made |
 |
Your correspondent avidly keeping
his public informed from the comfort of his current home |
August 30th. And we take in
the pool, more or less all day. We probably deserve it! A few shots from the hills
across the river, and we veg out. Just for a change, we braai our Springbok bits and off to bed again.
This morning was a simple 100Km jaunt (Cruiser not liking being ignored for a day, had a farting start up again), and after a quick detour to the top of the
Fish River Canyon trek start, and another one at the
sulphur springs, we decide to take the day off.
Distance travelled this entry: 900 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 875 Km
Published in Now Feb 2000:
David: responding to your request for
alternate travel stories in Now Jan 17 - 23. I've got quite a few more
"alternates" if you are interested.
Sorry about the length. I wanted to get a the feel of the outback here.
Jim Smith.
Malealea Lodge, Pony Trekking, Lesotho, Africa
It’s all an easy trip for Ishmael our guide, but he does this every day -
more or less, depending on the tourists passing through this totally
remote and wild backwater in Southern Africa.
For us city dudes, even with a month of travelling behind us, a 60
degree rock face, a long way down a vertical drop over boulders the size
of houses, is pretty intimidating.
This is our rite of passage. We - or at least each of our horses, have
to negotiate their way 100 metres down to the river below. With only a
half shod Lesotho pony between you and the bottom of the gorge, it’s a
different matter to collecting your groceries at Safeway on Saturday
mornings.
Once down, after a few slips and slides (none fatal), its a fantastic
feeling to let the ponies relax before we head up the other, equally
steep side of the gorge..
We, myself, Jim, Ilge and our two kids, Aiden (12) and Kayla (10) are
starting out on a 4 day, 3 night pony excursion across the “roof of
Africa” a totally remote and pretty desolate stretch of Lesotho. As we
come up over the other lip of the gorge, there is a scenic village just
ahead. Goats cattle and kids are going about their daily business.
There are only six of us, Ishmael our head guide and Albert his
assistant. In support, a pony each plus a pack pony. We carry everything
we need except water and cooking gas - even charcoal for our first
nights barbecue. That's the way it is here.
Travelling on horseback into valleys and through mountain passes, we
tend after a few more stumbles, to become fairly blase about the
treacherous footing under our mounts - that after all is the pony’s
problem.
The interior is simply stunning, wild mountain passes often with snow
underfoot, and ice on the streams. With only a short lunch stop, we have
aches where we do not have places.
Our first nights stop is a village about 20 Km into the interior. We
have our own mud hut next to the chief. Our guide directs us to a local
waterfall, why not? A local lad takes us the 3 Km and we marvel again at
Africa’s unspoilt beauty as the water cascades down 150 metres from the
plateau above us.
We head back and share the narrow paths with the animals coming in for the night.
This village is situated on the side of a steep valley, we settle in
and check out the area, this is obviously a tourist stop over - there is
an easily accessible “long drop” toilet - definitely up market
accommodation here.
Come 6:00PM, dusk passes in 10 minutes, and it’s pitch black. Candles
and goat essence mingle to provide a rustic atmosphere. Our chicken and
rice dinner (plus a warm white wine), pass into history, and we listen
to the goats and cattle settle down in the enclosure, right next to our
hut.
The moon rises over the far hills across the valley, and we collapse
into our sleeping bags around 7:30. Lying on my mattress that night, I
realise this would not be a good time to have a heart attack.
Our second day, and we are out of the village just after dawn, it’s
really cold up here. Straight up the hills behind the village and we are
up above the snow line. There is little more than brush and stunted
saplings up here.
After 2 hours we are at the top of another pass, it looks flat, and
Aiden, Kayla and I decide it’s time for a race. These two have never
galloped before, now we are off for 3Km’s of pure bliss as the rocks and
mountain glide past our field of vision. This is the life - for us
anyway!
Come lunch, we are 30 clicks from the lodge, and only our guides know
where we are. Totally devoid of any villagers, sounds, anything, it’s
hard to remember Toronto, or even a city out here.
As we relax that evening at another village, I talk to Ishmael, “Why do
you wear so much clothing” I ask, “I need it, you are fat, you do not”.
Hmmmmm. A bit of local repartee methinks.
The circular huts are about 5 metres across and come with full mod cons,
a bucket of water, a table, cooking gas (sometimes), cutlery, plates,
four plastic chairs and 6 sleeping mattresses.
Everywhere you look, there is shit. Sometimes bona fide detritus, but
still a lot of real shit..It keeps the soil fertilised I guess. Out
here, there are no supermarkets or even shops of any description, so
even wrappers and plastic bags are nowhere to be seen
The village chief drops by to say hi, we chat in pidgin Sotho and
English. As we have our two kids, we ask him how many children he has,
“eight....... or nine I think” he replies thoughtfully.
Our third day and we are out even earlier. 5:45 AM up - it’s still dark.
Up and down some incredible rocky steep slopes. The winter sun warms us and the animals sense we are heading homeward.
Arriving at the third village, we realise we are early. The floor is
still being worked on. Mud and cow shit (that shit thing again). Happy
hours later, we have met the village kids and their animals. More
return as the sun sets.
The propane gas tank is empty, its bean sandwiches tonight.
Heading back to Malealea, we see a strange sight - a car. Its amazing
how we have come to treat our ponies as a standard mode of transport;
the environment and the people as an everyday occurrence.
A final mad gallop for 5 K and we are back to the lodge.
A shower, laundry. A massive 12 inch T Bone with local red wine followed
by the local choir lilting in Sotho around the camp fire. Oil drums,
bits of tyres, spare string and beautiful harmonies against an African
moon.
Next day, and we are off. The fee - 4 of us for the trip, plus two
nights at the lodge $C764), and bid farewell to our host, Mick Jones to
head off to the Garden Route.
This is truly an alternative to Club Med. It’s not for everyone, but it certainly worked for us..
Malealea is about 70KM South of Maseru, the capital of Lesotho which is
served from Johannesburg South Africa.. Mick operates a taxi service to
and from the airport.
Other travel adventures on www.koplimae.org
Pix available here)
More available on request.
(C) Jim Smith 416 766-2820
