Monday, 29 May 2017

2017 April 17th, May 29th, Varanasi, Shimla, Amritzar India, Sigean, France, Toronto ๐Ÿ‘

Dateline: May 2nd. 2017, Segean, France

India - Completing the triangle Varanassi, Hill Stations and the Taj Mahal


And this is almost how we did it: We took the train

Another cliche, maybe, but how about that?


My pedicab driver
This poor old bugger is 60, 
and lives on almost nothing
As with many of our (relatively) long vacations, the time only seems to drag once the departure lounge becomes tangible as part of your immediate future. We are not quite there yet.

So it is our last week or so escaping the scorching Indian plains to the respite of  the hills of the north west.

Planning ideas back in Toronto, I did want to head off to Ladakh and Kashmir, which about 3 months ago were pretty stable, but lots of unrest now, plus a Canadian government warning kinda put the damper on any chance of that.

Me & my trusty backpack of about 40 years ago, maybe, missus and Kayla in tow, ah, not really.

So, we are simply winding down with long stays at hill stations as practiced by the ladies of the Raj, generations ago.

April 19th, Varanasi

Once again. we are back where it's obscenely hot. 42+ for most of the day. Even I find it difficult to move here


It's about 44 today, not even Englishmen should be out
Varanasi is the holiest city for Hindu's apparently. If you die within it's boundaries, you no longer need to be reborn, but are sent directly to Nirvana or some such halcyon place, never to need to be earth bound again. Consequently, there are huge numbers of poverty based housing for lots and lots of old people awaiting their blessed chance to spring out of said mortal coil 
Mid day on the Ghats, no one stirs in this heat


I'm so glad Kayla's friend Amy who did her doctorate research near here, pointed us to the upper hotel reaches, not here by the Ghats. In Toronto I was toying with the idea of heading to the Ghats where there were lots of hotels, what did I know. Even the really upmarket ones here are, once viewed, especially in this heat, simply non starters for us non backpack mentality (cash infested) tourists.
 

From the luxurious safety of our hotel, we have located a "rooftop cafe" on the Ganga and with Google's help, head there.

Upon arrival at the area around the Ghats, it became obvious that the area is hardly a tourist haven. It is in fact India in 560 font
Narrow streets, occasional cows, many soldiers


We are dropped off by our Tuk driver about 700 metres away as Tuks are not allowed any further
It's easy to see why.

Lugging our gear through here would have been a nightmare


Latrines, male only of course dot the Ghats. 
Urine just drains out the bottom
After generations of this you wonder about the
quality of the foundations
The streets to get to the Ganga are not only narrow, but wind every which way.
Festering muck sits in the alleyside sewers.
It is a very old city after all. 

There are army patrols and groups at most major intersections, plus even in the narrow streets close to the river.
Well, it is north of 44 folks



Stockpiles of wood. 
We're getting warmer
We find the place  as per our research and consume copious amounts of water. 

It's actually a backpacker hostel, but still the best place to stop for some ways around.
Not exactly the cool
Skipper and cast of thousands on the Ganga, 
No, we didn't swim in it
cappuccino
sipping hangout we envisaged, especially with the rave reviews we read on Google maps. 




Upon reflection, this was one of the better ones however.

The staff turn the fan on for us, which at least alleviates some of the heat, even iced coffees etc can't get around it, and its still dry. Monsoons would be, well even more unbearable.
As it's desperately hot, and I don't mind it too much, I investigate the Ghats alone. Not a burning body to be seen, nor many non burning live folks either. Even most Sadhu's appear to have left the vicinity or ar kipping in the 40+ shade
A barge of burning material. No traces of bits of body remnants so far

 After an hour, back at the cafe, Kayla sets me straight. I've headed in the wrong direction for the "Burning Ghats", or, Manikarnika Ghat (Manikarnika Ghat - Wikipedia
The Burning Ghats of Varanasi from the Ganga. 
Looks a bit dark and medieval I guess. Well, it is.
The locals proudly point out that the fire has been burning for "centuries" 
) so we head over as the sun starts to go down, and suddenly, the temperature abates and the heat is much easier to live with.


As we wind down these narrow unassuming alleys, suddenly we are surrounded by stockpiles of wood. This is it

Multiple "guides" appear around us, some simply talking to/ at us, others with the usual "where are you from", "how long have you been in Varanasi/ India/ this world?" etc. Everyone wants you to visit their shop (Goldie Hawn visited my shop, do you want to come"? No, "why not?....." and/ or of course, money.
A barge of burning material. No traces of bits of body remnants

There's a few bodies (I assume) on various stages of pyres (no photographs please - of course, a bit ghoulish one might think), maybe 5. Some freshly draped and covered in bright wraps, flowers accompanying for the afterlife awaiting the mute turn.
 You have to be there to get the full Dante's Inferno 

 
Apparently, the "Sacred Fire", sitting in the middle of the area, has been burning non stop for  well over 2000 years.

We need a boat to view the Ghats and town from the river, get a better perspective, and get rid of various begging processes

Heading south to the prayer festival
From the safety of the river, we see the dark satanic mills of
bodies burning, and the steady stream of boats arriving with what our boatman rower tells us  are funeral parties bringing their deceased loved ones


Our boatman has enough English to outline the happenings of the Ghats as we head up river, then down to another Ghat for the evening prayer meet and singalong


A floating hearse, with party goers





Tourists assemble for the show
If you look carefully, you can spot the emaciated
cows and the carrion dogs scouting the area for bits
Truly an unimaginable spectre



Dusk and bugs
The lights begin
As soon as the sun heads down, 
this becomes a brilliant outing
Apparently, this prayer and devotion fest was invented 15 years ago to attract the tourists. It works

Mainly exhorting the crowd,
and a magnet for beggars

We leave the river (mosquitoes abounding), navigate the prayer fest, ascend the steps, avoid the beggars (mostly) depart the Ghats, and, 
once again in the safety (that's pretty much environmental as in air conditioned, safety not physical, that's never been an issue by the way) of the hotel,
.


After dinner, we realise that we have done everything we wanted to do here. There's the "sunrise" option, doing the same thing in 10 hours, but I'm cool without that 

We are all aware that no one wants to be out in this heat for another day

Ergo, my direction, next day is tickets, preferably to Agra, but no trains, so we take an overnight to Delhi, back to the ever welcoming Arvind and Rita 

It's an overnighter, leaving about 10:30 PM, so we wait in the hotel all day till we leave

India has a pile of options for getting around, from the pedicabs right up to luxury taxi's.
Varanasi Station, sunset

Most are available through apps, so, I install the Ola app, and for about $2.50, get an 8Km ride to the train station.

Endless shakedowns at the exits

This is in a decent air conditioned car. How do they do this?

We arrive in Delhi in the middle of preparations for a post wedding reception for fiends of Riva and Arvind. 

We are of course invited. Hospitality is just so all pervading here.
We thankfully retrieve our
roles as tourists


Rita thinks it's time to shed my dreads. Why not. It grows back. So far anyway
And relish our roles at the hotel breakfast
Just fantastic food here

Rita, 
our ever welcoming hostess

Not being much of a vegetarian cook, I content myself with squeezing curd and sauces out of plastic bags to help.
The vegetarian option for milk producers ongoing
Once again, but even more so, the food for the wedding party, mostly Arvinds creations, is simply incredible. I honestly don't know how to describe it. I'm no longer amazed that I love it so much, but these plates of delectable s are even more tasty than anything I can remember in India or much else. OK, maybe a T Bone steak, but the jury is still out on that one.
I'm simply agog at how wonderful vegetarian food can be and how stunningly great it can be. Regular readers will recognise this refrain.

Harping on, I think western "vegetarian" is so dire because it tries to mimic meat dishes (ie the nut cutlet/ veggie burger mob). DON'T BOTHER. Veg has far better tastes and flavours than this half baked not meat alternative


By the way........ Arvind also does cooking classes, maybe there's enough for you gourmands out there in Toronto for him to put on a class while he's in Toronto. Some fees apply. 


Please talk to his local Toronto agent, ie, me


Finally, I allow the shopping expeditions. I didn't want to lug piles of stuff around India, so we just buy it all here and pick it up when we depart

Even though we have missed some things we really wanted while traveling and not buying, I think we've stacked up enough in the way of desirables to see us through

25th April: Delhi - Shimla


Advertised a a luxury trip
Far more like a shake down
Ola to the station for the early trainTo my dying shame, I/ we were taken in by a scam artist at the station. Even though I have read about this kind of scam, I still bit: "Your train is cancelled, go to this location and rebook it, hurry!!!!

I took his work, and only realised we had been scammed when the place his driver took us too told us there was no problem (we could have done this too!)

It's been a long ride. Tea and comfort pre dinner 

I'm not sure how truly life threatening it would have been if the driver had driven off with all our gear, or even if that was part of a big scheme, but as Ilge sat in the car, he didn't, and the net gain for the con artist and the driver was $6.00 for the "taxi" fare

Looking out north to the Himalaya,
180 degrees of them, but over breakfast
Really, all that for 6 bucks?
A l.ong way from town, but in a forested reserve
We struggle to make the train on time, and just make it sweating and cursing (LOTS!!), mainly about me, with 40+ years of sniffing scams,
being so incredibly stupid


From Chandighar, a one way taxi up to Shimla. Again, organised at the station on my mobile

Finally, it's cold! 
About 15Km's east of Shimla, a home stay. We are the only guests as it's not yet quite season. Luckily there's an excellent cafe 50 metres away. We all need our Canada clothes here at night. Beautiful views of the mountains and valley lights below us after dark

Arriving in Shimla, after the heat of the plains, you can understand why this was the British seat of government during the summers

There's a super upmarket lodge in the forests just above our Dalit standard homestay and we head out to walk there next day

Luxury, but not as tasty as local cafe food, and about 100 times the price
for "High Tea" (gettit?): note pinky fingers

The cost was about 3 days worth of our regular food intake. Plus the cucumber sandwiches were dry, and the cream for the scones was out of a spray can, just creme.

26th April:  Shimla
Kayla & I head into town, Rishabh the owner takes us right into Shimla.

Our mission: money and train tickets for our trip Amritsar to Agra, have a coffee. 

Both TD VISA and CIBC both refused me cash (yes again!) at ATM's


Toy Train Station below, Shimla
I shout at  and finally, after shouting at both, get the money we need, and I escalate my continuing complaint about various algorithms on computers. Imagine not having a phone with IP calling....

This is "The Ridge" 
Centre of Shimla





We can't find a taxi, so end uo taking a local bus back, at about 2% of the cost of a taxi.
Central Shimla religion
Dreadful isn't it

Get the us & them bit?

A lounging few days, then up to Dhramshala.


29th April, Shimla - Dharamshala 
Ola cancels my rides, so I have to book on MakeMyTrip, an Asian travel app. Eventually, we leave, but 4 hours late
 
A long and really scary ride, even more scary once it got dark. About 8 hours over 240Kms. Mahendra, our driver avoids endless grief, (and death too come to that), and his humour helps us when we get lost (Google really screwed up the final  leg of this) 
I'd recommend him if anyone wants his number for India taxi riding, long distance, its +91 85120 40368

It's late and dark and we're knackered when we finally arrive. Again, it looks like a forest reserve. .


Yep, the Tibetan memorial to immolation,
note flames
Dharamshala is sorta split into two. the lower reaches where not much of interest goes on, and the upper really cool touristed area where the DL (Dalai Lama) lives. Obviously, as this is where all the cool coffee shops are
Market at upper
Dharamshala
We buy a tea pot for Aiden
Dharashals hotel
Here the staff are dumping
the days trash into a local
stream

We tour the propaganda centre (aka Tibetan museum) and check out sundry coffee and monasteries. 

I chat with Aiden and he decides what his selection is
It's Sunday, so we miss out on a few places, but complete bits more of shopping and feel suitably toured

A lot of towns are non
smoking her
e

Walking in lower Dharamshala

Some fancy prayer wheel 

And back to regular tourism


We have a few extra days here as our schedule to leave (May 10th), means that we try to avoid the heat for as long as possible. A wander to the lower Dharamshala, even though the upper is actually "McCleod Gange". There's nothing to temp a tourist here folks


Mahendra, our Shimla driver sleeps outside the hotel since we arrived, and has become "our driver" This works. We don't  need rip off taxis, and he's off duty until further notice, so we have a symbiotic relationship. He will take us to Amritsar tomorrow

 
3rd May, Dharamshala - Amritsar
The car trip is really easy. Same distance but only half the time. Actual highways (tolls of course), but very effective. Punjab looks a lot more effective and richer than anywhere else so far

The Golden Temple Amritsar from a roof cafe, bloody hot again
We are not sure what the hotel is like, but arrive and its really luxurious. Maybe its cheap as there's zero tourist business in the summer
We say our farewells to Mahendra as he heads back to Delhi
After arriving, I wander the locale to see where we are. It's in the middle of an industrial area. A big and industrious one. The streets are CLEAN! not just trash free, but swept and disposed of. I walked for about 4 hours and was only assailed by latrine stench once outside the bus station.
We had to wear headgear, 
otherwise, no restrictions
But, as it's an industrial park, there's hardly any local action. Hardly a shop or sit down place. Surprisingly, lots of parks, many actually green. I like it.
Site of  well known, but brutally suppressed massacre
The Golden Temple
Turns out the hotel restaurant, though incredibly pricey compared to ouusual haunts, (probably about a third of Canadian prices), has very good food, plus a bar with (not very good) local draught beer
 
We work the temple
Tuk down to the Golden Temple next day, something I've wanted to visit for decades. We are amazed at the local shopping malls and pedestrian areas. It's incredibly clean, even by Swiss standards!

Heady head gear for all

Peaceful Canadian as ambassador to Amritsar

We re hydrate at a rooftop cafe  before venturing in.



The security folks are delighted to see us and usher us into an extensive visual extravaganza. It's incredibly well done, snazzy and professional. It's also pretty much a propaganda on how everyone should love each other, but if you don't then go to war and here's what you can do to them

 No pressure or helping us to convert, just the words of various Guru Ji's and his (always "His") acolytes over the centuries


The temple and environs itself is pretty laid back . Lots of selfie takes, many wanting me in their pix, good natured and friendly everywhere.
Then just stop and chill, such as it is
in a local cafe overlooking the temple complex
We pass people who look surly, but a quick hands together and "how're ya doin dude?" invariably elicits  broad smiles and similar returns.

As Kayla points out though, I'm a guy....


point taken 

May 5th, Amrisar 
A birthday beer on our rooftop
Kayla and I head out for the "other" sights.

Seems there was a huge British massacre here in the 30's, as depicted in "Ghandi". There's now a park, an extremely well maintained and utylised park called "Bullet Holes" park. It wasn't worth visiting except for the greenery, but it turned out to be the highlight of the day in town


The hotel staff organised a cake for my birthday, 
a very sweet thought it was too
My birthday, 68 it is.
A beer at sunset, then a buffet and a surprise birthday cake from the hotel staff.


I get a few intrepid best wishes from a few mates, (thanks you intrepid folk), and still waiting for a few more

Oh well......

May 7th, Amritzar - Agra
A long day on various trains. I'm totally dead with something, sleep all day on the trains. From 7:00AM - 4:30PM to Delhi, where I finally find out that the train toilets do function when I don't
It was even spelt correctly and tasted great - 
there goes my figure
It really is beautiful

We arrive in Delhi, that's the "Old Delhi"  station, as in Chandni Chowk, as in first visit to meet Kayla to the Red Fort back in March. 
It's amazing in a seething mass of poverty stricken humanity kind of way.. We are trying to get through what can only be described as, if at all an "intense" sea of humanity trying to get on (and/ or off) a train on the platform we are heading out of.

It's like being in a horizontal lift designed for 10 people, holding 100, all trying to get through a door only big enough for a rabbit. and this door moves around so you're never sure which way you will end up going in

We finally escape.
I know it's a cliche, but it's a beautiful stunning cliche

A mad dash across town in a Tuk to yet another Delhi train station: its about 43C in Delhi now. Quite a shock after out pleasant 25C in the train for 9 hours.
 
Not quite National Geographic
This train is very fast, and almost on time. We have a taxi driver waiting for us with a "Jim Smith" printed sign. I love it when this stuff works, and end up, thankfully at out hotel in Agra where I totally fade to black about 9:30. Maybe I've got something other than heat stroke, but I'm totally out of it.
Clichรฉ or not
Been there, took sefie

I kind of wished that we'd taken two days here, but we only have the one.

May 8th, Agra Taj Mahal (Taj Mahal - Wikipedia)
7:00AM, we're out, trying to beat the heat, but it's already 35C


Our hotel is right next to the ticket agency close to the East Gate. Maybe a kilometre away. tickets are expensive for tourists compared to most places, but that's how it should be.
Another cliche, maybe, but how about that?

The guides were correct, get up early (not quite dawn like Kayla set her alarm for), but close, and it's almost empty
And, eventually, we withdraw having "done"
the Taj Mahal



Yes, we can all take this one off of various bucket lists, but its far more than just ticking a box. The Taj Mahal is exceptionally beautiful. Brilliantly aesthetic and amazing to behold,. Throw in all that lovey dovey stuff and it becomes, well one of the seven wonders of the world.....
India just carries on


We head through the actual mausoleum and Kayla & I check out all the other buildings. Nothing else as stunning and by 10:30, we're back, breakfast and up to Delhi by 6:00PM

I'm not sure if I'm going to miss the place. Delhi is certainly difficult to enjoy, let alone love even in moderate temperatures. At 42C+, it's almost impossible to want to stay here
Our final final CCD (Cafe Coffee Day) coffee
with Kayla & 
Kanishka

Kayla will stay on, maybe even as long as she has a visa, maybe till some when in June if she dissolves in the heat or rain, with Kanishka, or head to different hills to cool off and practice Yoga, or maybe programming.....

Keep up! Now heading to France, again


Ah! The good life at 11,000m. BA to LHR
Real cutlery in this travel section

Back to the business of being in France again!
We flew BA, to LHR by the
looks of it, then connect to
Montpelier
Zero problem replacing
the suitcase
Yes, yes, oysters, Gin & Tonics 
salad, baguette and a great view.
The usual in fact
Just another Cathars castle
There's lots here

Another Baguette sandwich? Well, just one and a glass of your finest red sil vous plait . Our Oysters glade
May 10th Delhi - Montpelier France
Us?
The Rubicon is crossed. Been here, done that, love it 
Peter insists on a ferry across Le Etang
in his personally built boat. This time we make it
Sigean, playing sophisticated tourists until the Newtons arrive next week

Only to be invaded by fun seekers after we arrive

But we have several more wondrous picnic spots available
And we always have France
as an ever wonderful backdrop


That's it, nothing more to see here, move along. We'll be back in India (after Hawaii and Tokyo), in November. This time to the south in the winter. Maybe Kayla will too.
 
I'm almost out of blogging from here until the Fall.

Just final thoughts and impressions, then it's vacation time for me

If anyone is still left out there reading this stuff have a great summer 






Then home to Toronto

From Your Correspondent




3 comments:

Unknown said...

Jim Happy Belated Birthday you young chap.Margot & Art

Russ and Val said...

Glad you had a happy birthday with cake too! See you next week when you get back - can't wait to hear more stories of your trip xxx

Unknown said...

Hi Jim,

I've been following your blog intermittently. I was particularly interested in your comments on Varanasi. I was in the holy city for my 60th birthday,in 2000,took a flat boat evening ride along the ghats with a guide, bought a plate with blossoms and a burning candle from a "cigarette" girl, and set it adrift along with a thousand others in calm down current. Best birthday souvenir of my life!

Enjoy your trip, heat and all. Oh, and Happy Birthday!

Richard Chartrand