Dateline: March 30th, 2017, Jaipur, India
30th March: Jaipur, "The Pink City": Rajastan
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| Yeah yeah. well, we came here for this, didn't we? |
We both get our own bunks, mine next to the window, and I can watch endless India, endlessly rolling past me as I lounge in 24C luxury with regular cups of chai.. It's all poor, of course, poor land, poor people and hot, bloody hot etc, and the terrain slowly turns into fertile irrigated plots, and gradually becomes green.
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| Indian railways are perfect if you have no need to be where you're going |
We arrive, of course, late, but as we have a working phone, our tuk driver calls and keeps in touch till we met at the station in Jaipur, then head out to our hotel: Sunder Palace Guest House. It's nice, apparently well run too
It's evening, choking smog, hot, even on the rooftop restaurant. The moon is high in the evening sky,
almost a full moon.
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| The hotel is fantastic with this rooftop restaurant. Specially chosen for this, but the smoke and smog of the city is choking and hazardous |
The food is pretty good, (never look into an Indian kitchen - it's far too frightening), so, probably no more gastro craps as it were
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| Birla Mandir. Mahadav Temple, Jaipur |
As per Wiki:
"The city of Jaipur was founded in 1726 by Jai Singh II, the Raja of Amer who ruled from 1688 to 1758. He planned to shift his capital from Amer, 11 km (7 miles) from Jaipur to accommodate the growing population and increasing scarcity of water.[5] Jai Singh consulted several books on architecture and architects while planning the layout of Jaipur. Under the architectural guidance of Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, Jaipur was planned based on the principles of Vastu shastra and Shilpa Shastra.[8] The construction of the city began in 1726 and took four years to complete the major roads, offices and palaces. The city was divided into nine blocks, two of which contained the state buildings and palaces, with the remaining seven allotted to the public. Huge ramparts were built, pierced by seven fortified gates.[5]
During the rule of Sawai Ram Singh, the city was painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, in 1876.[9] Many of the avenues remained painted in pink, giving Jaipur a distinctive appearance and the epithet Pink city.
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| Not much of a highlight.... Shades of Ankor Wat |
29th
Breakfast on the roof, and we're coughing with pollution. It's not as bad as the burning season like south east Asia. You can't see the source here, but it's still pretty obnoxious. Massive amounts of cooking fires presumably.
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| The local cafe where the peanut and biking Mafias hang out |
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| Yep, "Monkey Mountain" That's our destination, with or without peanuts |
Oshkar, our Tuk driver from last night, takes us to the "sights" first recommendation is a Bahai'i temple.. OK. Not really worth the effort.
We talk to a US family at the temple and they give rave reviews of the Hannuman (ie Monkey) temple.
We direct our Tuk there and start walking.
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| Grounds of a long since Maharaja Now grounds of various monkey temples |
The missus dies on hill, it's steep and very hot. We haven't gone very far, we finally shrivel in the heat
So, to avoid further dying, either give up or take a motorbike to the temple.
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| The monkey swimming pool. Hardly worth the effort folks |
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| About as far as we walked |
Of course, we are ripped off, etc, its only about another 700 metres. See previous notes about everybody trying to rip you off here.
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| Well at least someone apart from the biker rip off artist benefitted |
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| So far we think it wasn't rabid |
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| Ancient temple. "You can see Lord Ram in the role of Lord Krishna" |
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| Here's the local (male) toilet....... Yes, it did. took my breath away |
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| Always friendly locals, but occasionally misogyny is actually palpable in some cities |
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| Bikes are EVERYWHERE These and Cell Phones |
Wandering around town, I found another "Coffee Coffee Day" down the road and did a discovery wander around Jaipur for "fun" in 38C temperatures.
Hey folks, just keep yourself hydrated. You can live in this heat as long as you have some sun tanned base.
Kayla has recommended a food place, which just happens to be nearby. We set out after dark, on foot - its only about 400 metres away. The driving is terrifying. Most vehicles have no lights and we avoid them as much as the other way around.
30th
The missus has had more than enough touring, so I Tuk to forts, for which Jaipur is famous, on my own.
Wiki:
"Amer Fort (Hindi: เคเคฎेเคฐ เค़िเคฒा or Amber Fort) is located in Amer, a town with an area of 4 square kilometres (1.5 sq mi)[1] located 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) from Jaipur, Rajasthan state, India. Located high on a hill, it is the principal tourist attraction in the Jaipur area.[2][3] The town of Amer was originally built by Meenas,[4] and later it was ruled by Raja Man Singh I (December 21, 1550 – July 6, 1614).
Amer Fort is known for its artistic Hindu style elements. With its large ramparts and series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks Maota Lake.[3][5][6][7][8][9] It is the main source of water for the Amer Palace."
As it turns out, its a holiday here which means the Rupee1000 price tag is waived today. just as well. i guess if this is the first fort you visit, it could be spectacular, but it's not particularly interesting. Looks like I'm forted out.
There's still lots of walking, first the forts, lots of uphill, then back, past various sights, such as the "Floating
Palace".
Back to the city for the City Palace, which by now, even I found pretty boring. I dismiss my Tuk man with a good tip, and walk back through the town, to the hotel. Past some local colour of yet another festival, this one featuring the real Maharaja as once owned the city et al.
I couldn't wait. I had more important things in mind
viz:
On the way, I gather a beer (I deserve it, and the hotel doesn't stock it). I had been warned that even in a government store, I would be scammed, sure enough, I was told the cost was 200, but actually, it should be 125. I give him the correct amount and feel that I have beaten the system.
Fresh milk and some fruit for the missus and its back home. I am SOOOO! aching, tired, dirty and totally done with this India tourist bit
That's it, me and forts, and palaces, and mausoleums, and mahals, and petty scammery. For now, at this stage, India is done, at least for now...
Nepal tomorrow, and finally Kayla's birthday party
From Your Correspondent
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| Yep, the entire skyline is fort, and I'm gonna do it all |
30th
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| View of Jaigarth Fort from Amber |
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| Amber Fort and Palace in the background |
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| Entrance to various sanctums |
Wiki:
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| Selfie from the grand entrance to the court |
Amer Fort is known for its artistic Hindu style elements. With its large ramparts and series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks Maota Lake.[3][5][6][7][8][9] It is the main source of water for the Amer Palace."
As it turns out, its a holiday here which means the Rupee1000 price tag is waived today. just as well. i guess if this is the first fort you visit, it could be spectacular, but it's not particularly interesting. Looks like I'm forted out.
However, the audio guide is very informative about the history, and characters of the area.
It was a major centre of commerce, and had so much treasure, the Raja of the day built a totally new fort, above this one to store all the booty. (Jaigarth Fort). It was never occupied, and just after completion, Jaipur town, as is now, was created and both forts were abandoned.
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| Central Courtyard, Amber Fort |
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| From Amber fort, the forts were enclosed by walls, about 27Kms of them |
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| View from the top of Amber fort, somewhere around the Hareem |
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| Part of the walk up to Jaigarth fort (a long way) |
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| No one else want's to see these ruins. Can't understand why |
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| The Jaiban cannon at Jaigarh Fort Used once, just to test |
There's still lots of walking, first the forts, lots of uphill, then back, past various sights, such as the "Floating
Palace".
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| Jal Mahal, or Floating Palace |
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| Cant remember where or what, but it's very impressive It's actually Gaitor Ki Chhatriyan |
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| Brilliantly carved by craftsmen a long time ago |
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| More Jaipur (get the idea that I'm done?) |
Back to the city for the City Palace, which by now, even I found pretty boring. I dismiss my Tuk man with a good tip, and walk back through the town, to the hotel. Past some local colour of yet another festival, this one featuring the real Maharaja as once owned the city et al.
I couldn't wait. I had more important things in mind
viz:
On the way, I gather a beer (I deserve it, and the hotel doesn't stock it). I had been warned that even in a government store, I would be scammed, sure enough, I was told the cost was 200, but actually, it should be 125. I give him the correct amount and feel that I have beaten the system.
Fresh milk and some fruit for the missus and its back home. I am SOOOO! aching, tired, dirty and totally done with this India tourist bit
That's it, me and forts, and palaces, and mausoleums, and mahals, and petty scammery. For now, at this stage, India is done, at least for now...
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| This elephant was just hanging out in the middle of town Why not, this is India |
So, gentle homebound reader, wherever you are in India, be aware that you still
need to be on the ball, every one is after money. There is far less
obvious feelings of blatant theft, or threat of such, although there are lots of advisories for this. It's all mostly low level scams and price inflation. Never take the first price. 40% of the first offer appears to work well enough, plus or minus depending on how tired and far away from your destination you happen to be.
However, no one will be honest about costs, and you need to be cynical and mean all the time.
Yes, it's very wearing, but most of you will realise that I have the perfect, ok, exact personality to suit these requirements
However, no one will be honest about costs, and you need to be cynical and mean all the time.
Yes, it's very wearing, but most of you will realise that I have the perfect, ok, exact personality to suit these requirements
From Your Correspondent
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