Back from NZ. Quick flying jaunt to Uluru, then up the east coast to Cairns and across to Darwin
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My all time favourite shot from Australia. Crossing Robertson River, Gulf of Carpenteria, NT |
Just passing through to Australia
Have scanned my emails of the time and inserted anything I felt like. Maybe some cogency, probably none. Chronologically suspect at best
Now read on....
I would expect at least a day to kit out the machine
Also we will probably darken your doorstep on the way back from Perth.
Chat later
Ugh!
Wild!
Excellent! But I do need this every week
But you said some cheques came in a long time back, but there are no deposits anywhere in any accounts??
Put the new licence in the bag for Melanie (is it packed yet?) She will need that today
I also want one of the green Robersons screw driver put in the computer bag
Van is pretty much ready to go, but we are still hanging around for one more day, then have an early (HAH!) start for a half way run to Brisbane tomorrow
Let's chat/ skype lots today
Love
Ugle
of course, but that was weeks ago
All we did was travel, and damn fine stuff it was too
Still totally disorganised, have no idea where Melanie will sit, let
alone her bags,,,
She emailed last night, and she was going to get in touch with Flo
before she flew out yesterday.
Stay safe
Ugh!
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Office, bedroom, transport and general cool dude licenced to party |
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Clem the mechanic who's fixed the Ole Gal for deep outback runnin. Ole Gal mechanics suitably passed and signed for |
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And we're back and off for a test drive down the coast |
If you've got it, flaunt it. If not, fake it Down at one of Annie's sisters in Kiama |
A sight seeing tour. Cold & damp |
Kiama with Sis Chris. We freeload and I make dinner |
And indulge in the local sports centre, this time without any great whites doe company |
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Its getting on for winter here, but not desperately cold yet |
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Annie couldn't hack the adventure |
An almost natural tidal pool |
And Bronzed (well not yet but soon to be) adventurer |
Hey ladies, form a queue will ya? |
On a back route through the wilds of NSW. A pub |
Staged action shot. Pre roof top tent |
Canberra. Wet and a bit dull |
Annie & sis (Canberra one) in Canberra |
Observation hill, Canberra with the parliament building in the background |
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And we're back at the homestead and almost immediately...... |
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And we're off to Uluru/ Alice for a week |
Just off to Uluru. On the train now
Flying out in 2 hours
This trips travelling map: Uluru - Alice Springs
We booked a sunset desert dinner, outside of course. Didgeridoo (white guy playing) and huge buffet
And we are here. Yulara. with view from the hotel |
Note still in winter like thick T shirt. May here is our November |
Hey mate.
Back in the sunburned country, and now at Uluru
Here and Alice for a week.
Kitting out the cruiser (bought from my long time ago ex girlfriend in Sydney) - brought most of my old Cruiser stuff over, then on the road for Brisbane next week.
Glad you have a great outlook
You will probably need it over the coming years.
Will see you before you head off. Will you finally be able to have our coffee in the Coffee Tree again?
Stay kool dude.
Jim
Of course we do the up market rich tourist thing A fabulous outdoor all you can eat buffet This is the opening act |
As the sun sets, the Didge reverberates And almost everything is well in the world |
Bone dry out here in the middle of the outback Damn chilly too We're bussed out and back, so no DUI here |
Next day and we're on the guided tour It sounds like the Abbo's were pretty well central stone age |
Every pock mark and hole represents something in Aboriginal culture and legend |
Of course. Because it's there. Just there |
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Yes. I did ignore the entreaties by the indigenous locals not to climb up it. Well, what else could I do? |
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Probably half way up. Quite a hike actually |
Well, there is this hand chain to help you up Now (2021) all removed as per local requests |
It's not actually flat up here A bit like table Mountain Without the thugs |
Apparently, 863M. Totally sacred to the locals of course |
An old oil can at the summit This probably says something about the white interlopers |
I actually enjoyed getting up here. There was signal, so I emailed a few folks and got some replies. Ah, modern tech |
I'd guess that about 5 - 10 folks per hour get up here |
Glad it's the middle of winter |
And, its quite big to walk around |
Kata-Tjuta. Just about worth a visit |
I guess people need to be told. Didn't see any though |
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More sacred hills |
Interesting, but only if you have come for Uluru |
We come back late. somewhere in here there's a herd of Feral camels. There's lots! |
Nothing special, just an Uluru sunset |
We take a wild ride around the rock The trip is about 20Kms |
According to the Aboriginal legends every mark on here is explained by some snake, or giant, or dragon or kangaroo or god like being. Yeah, OK |
We're leaving tomorrow for Kings Canyon, so this is it folks |
And this becomes our regular day. Breakfast at a picnic spot or free camping area. No flies! |
Everywhere along the roadside we see these fruit Apparently, way back, these were planted by Camel drovers as they were useful to rehydrate the imported camels on long treks Feral Melons I guess |
We need to drive on the paved road as the car is not insured for the corrugated short route to Kings Canyon. Here in the middle of nowhere |
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Some of the obstacles on the path We press on |
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I'm game. Ilge heads back to our (cheap) accomodation |
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This hike is an easier 625M |
It's quite a pretty if unchallenging walk. Can be deadly though |
A long hike, even if it was just an average work out |
We are at a luxury lodge in the middle of nowhere, luckily they have a sideline in motel accomodation |
This is the luxury part, The restaurant also produces the, and I mean THE Best smoked salmon salad, We ate lots, all the time |
We rented some bikes today and biked a few kilometres out of town to a desert park. Great day; the park was a wildlife area which concentrated on the flora and fauna of the desert ecosystem and being on a bike again was wonderful. The weather is perfect: sunny but low twenties in temperature. Tomorrow we head back to Sydney to get ready to head out to Brisbane to meet Melanie.
An early departure from Kings Canyon and onto Alice Springs Driving into town, about 9AM, I'm stopped and brethalised. Wow. The cop told us drivers can be drunk at any and ALL times. OK |
The original Digital Nomad..... My clients are onto me I log into various client sites and make money |
We check out the local town and looking for shade, head to a bridge over the non existing river I shouldn't have been surprised, but there's a family or 2 of Aborigines apparently living here |
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I organise bike with a local hire shop Lovely guy not only gives us a great deal, but delivers to, and picks them up from out hotel |
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We're heading to the Alice Springs Desert Park |
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About 10Km, but it's winter, so not too hot ere |
Or wet come to that Apparently the floods are that high here |
Alice and lots of drunken abbos
And drunken kangaroos
And drunken koplimae smiths
Hmmm, even better.
Alice Telegraph station Historic Site can you believe About 100 years old and is venerated by the locals for it's major part in Oz history Big Yawn |
Decent enough coffee and lots of open air cafe's |
absolute dearth of Aboriginal culture, (except drunken abbo's) in NT,
so really looking forward to the gig, AND some of the "bush tucker" we
have heard about, Hmmmm, those grubs sound DELICIOUS!!
See you in a few days.
Jim & Ilgs.
Anzac Hill, AS. There's usually one in most towns |
You need to check with the local police or the local road service (ask a local from the state you are in to guide you where to find them that service) about travelling on unpaved roads but believe the tried and tested route is west of Townsville, across to Mt Isa, Three Ways in Northern Territory and north to Kakadooo....
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Home. A great FixerUpper? We'll see |
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Attempting to make it look like my last one The safe and frame for storage, plus kitchen table for instalation by your correspondent |
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Time to set to work prior to departure Just like old times, lots of resin and Dexion angle irons |
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It's not in the best of shape, but probably better than my previous one was before I was forced to abandon it to rust and big end and piston rings wear |
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But 3 days later, and we are on the road, heading to meet Melanie in Brisbane |
Just webbed "roof top tent brisbane" and up it came. It was 5 mins from our hotel.
See, who needs to be "organised"? Serendip has always worked great for me. That's where you came in :)
Thank Gary for everything he did for the ole gal/ us.... I suspect there was a lot more than just what we are aware of.
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Three days after leaving Annies, we meet Mel at her hotel and head off to our accommodation (paid for by the Oz government apparently Shhhh!) here in Caboolture, Queensland |
From Melanie:
The Dreaming - - - - am I dreaming - - - half a world away!
The weather was cool but sunny and the festival site is about 90km from Brisbane. Checked into the motel and headed over to the site. It is very beautiful in a wooded area used for the Woodford Folk festival. Walked down a nice path that was also a butterfly walk however I was a bit too cool I fear for butterflies.
The venues and set up is really great and apparently has over 800 volunteers. The artist green room and industry tents were beautfully set up - - - couches, heaters, carpets, and bar! It was great to see Di Mills again after she was in TO for Planet IndigenUs. My intrepid companions, Jim and Ilge (aka neighbours) who are "scouting" for me as well as driving . . . . met Noel Blair, the representative and elder of the custodial nation, the Jinibara Nation. Noel is lovely and reminds me of other local elders with a great sense of humour.
The vendors (food and other) and the general set up of the grounds is great (venues are; Blak Tracks; Dancestry; The Dingo Shed; Blak Dramatics; Kula Film; alterNative Lounge; Nomads Palace' Little Blak Duck; Galleries and then the healing and ceremonial tents).
The opening ceremonies were stunning starting with an opening by Noel and Sam Cooke (new AD) and followed but traditional perfromances by the the local nations and then going outwards to include other Autralian tribal groups; Pacific Island groups; Canadian First nations (a traditional male dancer; traditional female; baby and fancy shawl dancer and hoop) and ending with Hawaiians. Then everyone came out together and there were red flares - - - very dramatic! And the stage was in a "bowl" with water in the front and sand for the stage and some amazing natural bamboo or reed installations in thge water and trees. It was actually the perfect opening!
By now it was getting really chilly - - - it got down to about 3 degrees I think and I cannot imagine how all the campers survived - - - there are a lot of campers. The crowd seemed to be about 7000 strong,
I ran into Candance who is starting her 6 week Australian experience and was camping and Haniko and Tania are here from Creative NZ staying in a camper van (not sure how that is going) but it was good to see them again and Anton is also here but I have not seen him.
We saw a wonderful group Gulaan from New Caladonia (French speaking) - - - a duo - - - singer/songwriter and I think they would do very well because of the language connection. Went to support Dave West and ended the night with King Kapisi - - - I have to say he had the crowd going and his band is very "hot".
Much to do tomorrow because there is a healing area; storytelling (Joe Hawawira is here); art galleries; the film tent and programme looks excellent but one would have to stay there all day. Santee is on today and Candace has some panels - - - the schedule is jammed!
The food is interesting - - - more on that later and there is a new youth focus - - - also more on that . . . . .
trying to survive the jet lag . . . .
BTW - the festival appears to have excellent coffee options!
Oh yes, could you do me (anther) favour - you may even enjoy it.....
Need to pay a couple of Brisbane
tolls via the web.... have no idea. Can you stump up some more cash :)
A juicer process |
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but New Zealand, Pacific, North American etc |
Well, this is a business trip for Melanie |
This is pretty much, all natives, or should I say, Indigenous, not just Australian, |
Mel has VIP everything, and as trusty sidekicks, we are too |
A child of the 60's? Grandchild maybe |
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Yep! A whitjuti grub shop Real Bush Tucker |
From pick up on 10th, here final breakfasts (pancakes) on 14th, we are mutually in awe, |
and now heading in different directions Thanks Mel! Fantastic trip We depart North |
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Noosa Head camping, maybe 100Km north of our rave A flat and boring, but uneventful drive |
It sounds like your standards are slipping.....
Oh well aren't we all
Just heading into Great Sandy National Park (who thinks of these names?), and will work our way up. 4x4 essential I hear. Don't worry, she's fine and everything under the bonnet is working perfectly. Will definitely use the tent tonight, as I don't think there are any other options.
Still have no table or gin. Life is too difficult sometimes
Tried to pay our brisbane toll, but got lost and waylaid...
Are you now tooducks again?
Have fun,
Us
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This is actually the shot I sent to my customers with the title "Kingsway Computing's new Australian Office is now open for business" |
A spit of land where the roll on/ off ferry to Fraser Island arrives |
Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world, apparently is definitely only 4 x 4 |
Ilge has been here before on a trip with her friend Mark |
Of course, it's not just 4 x 4's here You can land your pane on the beach at low tide |
It's a camp anywhere kind of place, but we booked into a sheltered area for a night |
Even today, I'm still amazed that the roof top tent never detatched |
Can you believe that I still managed to get stuck!? What a looser! |
Duh! |
You are warned! |
And the real thing |
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Apparently, this used to be someone's home/ farm |
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Bromeliads? Definitely parasitic |
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What a camp site!, right on the beach A ranger actually came around and warned us to be extra careful when we got out of the tent at night as the Dingoes will bite you |
I was a bit dim here. Of course you shouldn't pop up a tent under a tree! Duh! (like for snakes dropping in) |
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There were actually several per day here I guess it's part of the great Oz outdoors lifestyle |
Well, sounds like Darwin is going to be a treat, we are only a few hundred kms from Cairns. What a climate change: yesterday nice cool breeze, today into the tropics, those endless blue skies with a relentless sun and that tropical flora gently swaying. Jim wants to know if its hard to be upbeat all the time? We did pick up a didg and I picked up a top (ONE I had pointed out to you). Reading your blog, we will do the sunset but where are the less peopled places? Oh, fraser Island was a trip. 4WD was a must and we camped on the beach with only the stars and aggressive dingos for company (no personal physical encounters but its happening more often). We did see some though. Are you looking forward to T.O? THANKS for informative blog. The grey nomads. Aka the freedom campers. I & J
First, sorry for silence: it is always more difficult to get access to email than expected. It's great being on the road again (with a few provisos). Highlights: New zealand's awesome beauty, a visit with our friend Chris in Auckland (indescribable though I will try later), meeting Jim's great love and staying with her in sydney and not feeling any awkwardness; Uluru and Alice Springs (outback country with an Aboriginal feel), Dreaming Festival outside Brisbane. This was a four day indigenous festival comprising music, dance, theatre, movies, food and talks highlighting the indigenous cultures throughout the world. Can not remember seeing so many dreads, flowing skirts, nose rings (actually more) since the sixties at the love~ins. Then Fraser Island, the.largest sand island in the world where we camped on the beach in our roof top tent. This island is only accessible with a 4WD vehicle which is not just the tourist boards idea of hyperbole or paternalistic approach. We are on the road to Cairns today. Chat soon. Love Ilge
Well, at a road house for a bacon butty (aussie version) let you know the verdict. Stayed at a motel yesterday right on beach road so got to go swimming (yah). It was a rock pond which is a pool at edge of sea which is sea water but protected from jellies and man eaters. Just take care of yourself and the house etc. Love mom
So far have replaced 1 headlight, and the handbrake needs adjusting, all Fraser Island inspired of course.
Not too bad.
Have converted all my crap Kodak pix, so now need to organise (HAH!) And get a DVD burnt. I did buy 10, so that's higher up my ability to get this stuff to you this year. :)
OK, chat soon.
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Now we're really heading north Cape Hillsborough, about 600Km north of Brisbane |
Townsville, a pretty non descript town way north of Brisbane. This is the tidal pool, typically free of both sharks and salties We stay in a hotel for the night |
This sad little waterfall is quite the tourist attraction In fact, just about anything with fresh water is a raving success in Australia |
It's also a site of "the best park on earth" or similar Some guy build a novelty park for his wife/ girlfriend Catch is, it's all concrete which is falling apart. Dead waste of time & $ |
Still in bed on the roof, woke up to the roar of the surf which is about 40M away
Mum still snoozing
Lovely camp site
Weather cloudy and windy, so no stars and no diving
Boo Hoo, twice
May have to head off to the deserts without a dive, Bo Hoo again
Love you
Dad
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Seems that its suddenly rainy season in Cairns So, we head north to avoid the town and wait out (or not) the weather |
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Wonga Beach: Daintree Beach resort A bit of a deadbeat place, hot and sticky, but fabulous surf noise all night |
Well Cairns is quite a wash out....
Weather far too bad for diving, so looks as though we will be heading out to Kakadu on Friday, arriving????
Rats!
Hi
Hope your summer is going well, We've hit the tropics; just short of Cairns Sunny blue skies and into the high 20's I guess we might get swimming here if there are'nt killer sharks and deadly jellyfish here, Did Andrew ever do the hedge? How's Ultimate? The tent is a treat. Are you both taking care of letters/bills now? Chat soon, love 'the gray nomads' aka mom & dad
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Inviting? No thanks |
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The beach at Cape Tribulation This is where the real road actually ends. From here, it's 4 x 4 to Cape York We retreat |
And I quote:
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I hike northwards up the beach It's not particularly exciting except I can fool myself into thinking I may be the first person here for months..... Maybe |
Just about to start our first GREAT desert trek. Cairns to Darwin. Tonight leave Cairns, and boogie. Be glad to get some dry weather. Pits about diving though.
Will only have sporadic email coverage from tomorrow on.
Got your update. Thanks. CR and - means they owe me money ;)
Can you advise Dave R re cheque?
How's life otherwise?
You REALLY need to buy a house VERY soon
Stay in touch, lovely to get various bits from you both.ugle
On Jun 24, 2010 4:56 AM
Still waiting for the weather to clear.
There's a boardwalk tour at Cape Trib
And also, wild cassowaries, but we didn't see any,
but I got the T-shirt
And.... we give up on scuba diving. Time to do something useful
Somewhere up here, there's a park specifically for tourists. |
Doesn't sound good huh? |
The tourist train is the first giveaway |
Various sanctuaries, aviaries etc |
I'm surprised we came out with all of our eyes |
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There was a handler (part of the entrance fee I think) who made shure the birds didn't go too wild |
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Or delve into too many orifices |
But one of these managed to snag a pearl earing The guide got it back before it was swallowed |
But anything that comes apart will be grabbed |
And this is a cassowary |
We had a fine old time here |
It's showtime on the open, unknown road |
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Eventually, overawed with tourist delights, we head back |
Another 400Km and we're in Normanton Essentially, we're committed to the road hardly ever travelled |
Life in the fast lane? |
WOW! The outback is just full of life |
A tree full of crested cockatoos |
To the locals, they are nothing but pests (probably a reciprocated view), but we are astounded by them, and the austerity of the outback |
Beginners outback. More adventures ahead as we head to Carpenteria |
This is tame stuff |
Hells Gate Roadhouse Notice in pit toilet washroom: Please turn off the light Lights attract moths Moths attract frogs Frogs attract snakes Nearest Flying Doctor service: 4 hours away |
Moon rise. Hardly any snakes spotted in washrooms |
Morning finds us still alive I was assured that these guys have fuel. It's expensive, they only take cash, but I knew that |
Crossing first Robertson River, Gulf of Carpenteria, NT, or at least, trying to work out how to |
Salties hangout, I expect, but don't want to find out |
On the way here, there were hardly any vehicles heading the other way I tried to see just how wet they were. And if any didn't have snorkels Some didn't |
Trying to see where the submeged rocks may be |
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Not having faced this kind of challenge before, I'm a bit intimidated, but eventually (of course), started out |
Great to hear from somebody over there. We left Cairns after a few days as it was windy and cooler than usual so no diving at the Great Barrier reef (this time). We have gotten into the Northern Territories amd I am writing this from the back of our cruiser in a rather swanky caravan park. The sites have their own washrooms and we have a power site. We are half way through our trip already! We just went through the most incredible outback experience. We took the 4WD road from Cairns to here: we needed to traverse about a half a dozen rivers (not streams) with stones and rapids in some of them. There were very few bitumen roads and the only living things we saw for a lot of the time were some road kill (usually kangaroos) with hawks and eagles chewing on them. The bird life is lovely; flocks of parrots and storks and of course raptors++ I think I sent you a picture of our roof top tent and we are just loving it: convenient and comfortable: as long as it cools down in the evenings I'll be fine as the temperatures are getting in the high 20's and relentless sun and I know Darwin will be even hotter. Well, I say bye for now. Take care Love Ilge They have a wonderful term for old farts like us here...the grey nomads; there are a lot of the geriatric crowd on the road here and "they" have coined this wonderful term for us. Though in one place they used grey tsunami for the mass of older folk who are travelling now. Sounds a bit more destructive?
As you can see. A LONG! way |
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We are a very long way from any kind of rescue or help of any kind |
Well, this one leaves zero chance that you are unaware of the risks |
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The daily distances are not particularly large, but it's always an unknow, like how many more rivers, state of road, availability of fuel etc, etc, etc |
Just in case you were thinking of moving here |
Here at Borraloola. The end of "National Highway #1" Capenteria Bay version. There's showers and a restaurant Razors too by the look of it Only 4 days. What a wild adventure folks |
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Heading to Katherine on the road more travelled Mataranka, the best milk shake in Australia, at least |
Was very impressed with this tree A local meeting place Just across from the milk shake |
Great to hear from somebody over there. We left Cairns after a few days as it was windy and cooler than usual so no diving at the Great Barrier reef (this time). We have gotten into the Northern Territories and I am writing this from the back of our cruiser in a rather swanky caravan park. The sites have their own washrooms and we have a power site. We are half way through our trip already! We just went through the most incredible outback experience. We took the 4WD road from Cairns to here: we needed to traverse about a half a dozen rivers (not streams) with stones and rapids in some of them. There were very few bitumen roads and the onl
y living things we saw for a lot of the time were some road kill (usually kangaroos) with hawks and eagles chewing on them. The bird life is lovely; flocks of parrots and storks and of course raptors++ I think I sent you a picture of our roof top tent and we are just loving it: convenient and comfortable: as long as it cools down in the evenings I'll be fine as the temperatures are getting in the high 20's and relentless sun and I know Darwin will be even hotter. Well, I say bye for now. Take care Love Ilge They have a wonderful term for old farts like us here...the grey nomads; there are alot of the geriatric crowd on the road here and "they" have coined this wonderful term for us. Though in one place they used grey tsunami for the mass of older folk who are travelling now. Sounds abit more destructive?
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The glorious Stuart highway heading towards Katherine |
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Here's you money shot all you travellers Yours to discover? Sent this to all my workmates back in Toronto |
RATS!
Looks like I went out of range before this went out, or I just screwed up.....
From a few days ago:
Ah you are so right, but after asking half the population, including the cops, had to rely on a guy that came from the place we were thinking of going to.
He gave us the local low down (as per river pix - well over the wheels and up the bonnet!)
Yes, did the Daintree and Cape Trib bit, just had enough of the bad weather...., so did the Cairns, Normanton, Cape Crawford route, the old gal was fantastic! I think we had one 2 - 3 foot river, above the wheels anyway, (there were 5 or 6 big one) and I was really quite worried going into the first (deepest) one.
Still, what fun. Now in Katherine and will decide tomorrow on Litchfield or Kakadu
Will do the other on the way back
How are you coping with these deaths and family urgencies? Sounds as if your organisational skills are in use..... Its strange how some families (like yours) have all these horrible issues to deal with, and others (like ours) have boring and bland (HEY! That's great with me!) Lives. Just watch god really make a move on that statement!
In Katherine and indulge in a bit of luxury |
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We, (I?) decide to head off to Litchfield National Park It's incredibly humid |
There's a lot of this stuff around They are called "magnetic" because they all point north, or more likely, simply, just face the sun |
And of course, typical tourist pleasing fare |
Florence Falls 4 x 4 campground We qualify and it's a lot quieter than the main onw |
But farther to walk to the falls/ waterhole It's such a treat to get totally wet and swim again |
Local waterhole with pensive |
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Salad and poached salmon so I read |
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And this is it, the main event can you believe Just hordes of busloads of tourists visiting and photographing a mediocre waterfall Give me a break! |
Berry Springs for lunch |
Now new stuff:
So, did Litchfield. Hmmmmm. God hot and dry, but really...... roof top tent
a wonder. Had salad and poached Atlantic Salmon in the 4x4 camping site (just one long drop bog, zip else). What a TOTALLY memorable experience.....!
Did Florence falls, but there are literally truck loads of people there, (and all through Litchfield), so ran off to Darwin where, yep there are hundreds of truckloads of people (yeah, I know, like DUH!)
Trying to find accommodation is a nightmare here, but need a place so I can get the ole gal a service.
Ok:
Let's get this off so you will no longer think I am ignoring you.....
Love
June 30th arrive in Darwin First thing we do , is get a decent iced coffee |
Ugh
We head off to the local docks for food It's obviously a Naval base, with not much security to be seen |
Not too impressed with the grub offerings here |
But, the get us around town |
and we can hang out wherever we like |
And out to the sunset beach About 2, 3Km's away, but it's hilly |
The sun sets |
Apparently, this is where it's all happening |
But we don't find much to keep us here, so we bike back (with difficulty) and hope the cruiser is fit for another overlander way of "happening" |
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