Well, good news and bad news. Actually, it's all bad news
Yes,
we are back to civilisation in SA. (that's the good and bad news). I
knew our great times had to be coming to an end soon - we are running
out of Marmite.
 |
| Vilanculos, we have packed, had our photo op time say our goodbyes and get on the road |
It's 6:30AM, the sun is rising to my right, and far off in the distance I hear the trucks on the N2 grinding down to Durban, about 250Km to the south. This is Iqana Game Ranch - a truly lovely place about 80Km south of Mozambique
 |
| The place to be appears to be Tofo Beach Everything in Mozambique is 16th century |
I
have just made a coffee for Ilge, it's really strange to think that our
post Mozambique concept of a good coffee is one made with instant and
actually has milk in it. This idea will no doubt only last as long as it
takes to finish it, but gives you some idea as to how primitive
Mozambique actually was.
Of course, being here means that our glorious adventure is about to end.
We
have come this way to drop in to see Mike & Kerry en mass in
Durban, rather than fight our way through Gauteng to drop Aiden &
Kayla off in Johannesburg and then Kayla & I head back to Durban.
But, the fact remains, that Durban is very civilised, and for us, not
the adventure location of our choice any more.
Our
adrenaline wind down has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Since
 |
| On route, we stop at local bus stops which seem to have loads of fruits and edibles. |
Chimanimani, we have come to the realisation that this lifestyle and
life expectations, will actually end once we get onto our flights. Now
only a matter of days away. Aiden is actually ticking off the days, (10
till he's back in Toronto), not that he is anxious to leave here, more
like (as with Kayla) anxious to see their friends again. 2 months plus
with only each other to beat up on, occasionally leaves them wanting
fresh concepts of how to bug people.
Not
only that, my server has been a real pain for being down at all the
wrong times, so I have not been able to email since Bulawayo 6 + weeks
ago.
 |
| At one place we get pinapples, bananas and "Nartjies" clementine oranges |
Even phone calls have been severely restricted. The good side of
this however, is that we have absolutely no clue as to what is going on
in the world, and personally, I'd like to keep it that way. However,
this is as much of a dream as it ever was, and I know that within a few
days, reality in the form of George Bush, various bombs, killing various
folk both notables and obscure, anti this and that resulting in more
killings, corruption, politics and the normal obnoxious style of what I
term "CNN Life", will return with a full vengeance. Interestingly, we
have lived and passed through one of the highlighted "hot" areas of the
world, Zim, and have just come through an area of almost unsurpassed
poverty (Mozambique). Strange how we can now associate with these places
so much easier than "home". Hmmmm. I'm not sure if there is something
"wrong" here, or we have finally come to realise where we belong.
 |
| Moz is even poorer than Zambia, less organised |
I
suppose that this is my last few days of total blissful ignorance of
what has been going on in the world (Hah! as if I cared), for 2 months.
Honestly, this state of complete ignorance, is highly recommended - you
really do not need to know what is happening out there with the likes of
George et al etc. Even a giant comet and the final destruction of Earth
and life as we know it, is of only passing interest. After all, there
is not much you can do about it any way.
Cannot say that I am looking forward to us returning "home".
Once again, I digress.
 |
| We head off down the beach road to Xai Xai beach Yep, this is it |
After nearly a week in Vilanculos, we have packed, had our photo op time, buy a few more touristy items, say our goodbyes and get on the road South.
 |
| It suffices as a bed for the night |
Margie,
our local Mozambique guide, has given us some useful tips on where to
head for, and we at least have a destination. She uses our questionable
guide to Mozambique as the basis for recommendations. We also talked to a
local at Na Sombra last night, and have an address for a place in
Maputo. Maybe we will be lucky, lets hope our streak of well informed,
or just plain Serendipity.
On
the road, without a map or reasonable facsimile thereof, what was
hopefully 180Km, is in fact 320Km. On route, we stop at local bus stops
which seem to have loads of fruits and edibles. At one place we get
pineapples, bananas and "Nartjies" clementine oranges. They are
incredibly delicious: a whole bucketful for 20cents. Also cashews. As we
drive, we see rows of people lined along the roadside selling all sorts
of foodstuffs from the jungle, occasional fish and chickens, ubiquitous
bags of charcoal, here and there.
We
reach a town with fresh water lakes Marjie recommended we should stop
at as it supposed to be lovely, but our sense of journey bids us just to
move on. Obviously, we are into our endgame now.
 |
| The Indian Ocean is pretty well unconfined here. |
For
the last 50Km before Inhambane, we notice the whole region is suddenly
coconut plantations. From way back Portuguese days I understand. Maybe
it's to help get the coconuts to market, but the roads appear to be
better (on average) here, and the villages look (ever so slightly), more
prosperous. Lets be frank here, on a scale of 1 - 10, the prosperity
index here is still hovering around 1.03 something. We are impressed
enough to try stopping at a roadside café (this in itself was enough to
create wild excitement amongst us) . Quite a large place though we were
not up to asking for snacks. Just main course here.
 |
| Pretty deadly if you get stuck in these waves |
Inhambane
is another 30K north of the intersection with the EN1 as it is right
around the bay, we end up heading North again for 30Km.
We get to Inhambane, with enough time to check out the town, and to find someone with some limited command of English.
The
town looks like it was once, quite well thought out, now, it appears to
be gently decaying (gently is good here, most are actively
deconstructed way back) - which is a pretty good indication of how well
it's doing. Beggars, still quite a few with one leg, and albino's spot
the horizon. Both here, and all the villages on the way down appear to
be totally over run with school children on the roads. Sometimes a
kilometre of kids as you pass on the roads. There is no rhyme or reason,
early or mid morning, mid day afternoon late into the evening. Piles of
them on the road, mainly with at least a school shirt or blouse, often
with similar "aid" satchels for their books if such a thing exists here,
almost invariably without shoes. In town, being mid afternoon, there
are bunches of kids waiting around most places. We do not feel any
antagonism here.
The place to be appears to be Tofo Beach.
It's another 30Km, but the road is pretty good. Arriving there at 3:00
is quite an unusual occurrence. We have the luxury of investigating all
possibilities (3 actually), for our R&R locale for the night. There
are several on this promontory, all trying to capitalise on a small
stretch of beautiful beach. Three tourist spots are almost literally
right on top of each other. We eventually settle for the place Marjie
recommended: the Albatroz. About $US75 for a cottage with a sort of
view, but what the hell? It's lovely here, and safe!
I
was happy to stay for a couple of days here ( what the hell?), but it
seems that end of trip frenzy is grabbing everyone, and we are all just
as happy to carry on rolling slowly down the coast.
 |
| The local kids who sell shells and tourist crap |
Next
stop Xai Xai - another 220Km south. A couple of hours of driving. It's
raining. Slowly, almost imperceptibly, the standards of roads,
buildings, clothes, shops, markets and general well being improve.
Poverty still demands attention, but is not as all prevailing as 500Km
north.
Xai
Xai has an ATM auto cash dispenser, that's about it. Still very basic,
but slowly we see the environment improve. No longer a subsistence
economy, it begins to resemble Africa as we knew it.
Once
again, huge numbers of kids out on the road. Last time we said it was
because it was Friday, now Thursday. Must be the Pope!
 |
| This is a large vacant plot right in the centre of town |
There is a security guard here, but his main job seems to be to chase off the local kids who sell shells and tourist crap. Funny when the guy in charge asks one of these kids to show us the places on offer.
Early
morning and the rain starts again. The car alarm wakes us up. It's
RAINING! This security device is a little over the top. Still, rain or
not, the security guy was there within 10 seconds. At least he takes his
job seriously.
 |
| Maputu. We drive through the city for an hour or so |
Again, we are heading out, this time to Maputo. Supposedly a fantastic city.
Again,
on the road, we see lots of police road blocks. Typically they ignore
us totally. Its Friday, and they are far more interested in the traffic
heading out of Maputo. After only 2 hours, the city comes into being as
large amounts of the roadsides become taken up with warehouses, large
markets and an endless pile of rusting discarded vehicles. On the city's
outskirts, Maputo is dirty, dusty noisy and extremely confusing.
We
are aware again of who we are: Tourists with money and lots of items
with good resale value on the black market inside their vehicle.
"Shields up!"
Our
first stop at the house recommended by out restaurant buddies, is a
wash out "by reservation only", We are directed to any old hotel, $US110
per night, only street parking. Forget it. After driving through the city for an hour or so, I'm suddenly aware that the place reminds me
strongly of "Damascus - this is a very good sign. It also has it's
poverty. This is a large vacant plot right in the centre of town. There are lots of people eking out some form of "living" out of city garbage.
 |
| Ilge & I head off to catch the ferry |
Eventually,
we settle (long story) for a 5 star hotel for $US125 per night. The
Girassol Bahia Hotel on the Central C, Avenida Patrice Lumumba, We all
agree it's worth it.
The
kids, god bless them want to stay in the hotel - could be the TV with
thousands of channels suddenly appeal to them. Ilge & I head off to
catch the ferry
across the river (Sabe) on a really tiny rickety boat. At the village
of Catembe. On the other side of the estuary, we again live it up with
prawns, and watch as the cook prepares the food in the spacious kitchen (outside in the dust).
We
have lucked into a map of the town at the local backpackers. It has a
lot of very useful information like where the "NO GO" areas are (lots)
and also the craft markets. Its Saturday, so there is the weekly crafts
sale in the city today. It finishes at dusk. As we get off the boat, the
sun is getting close to sunset. We have 30 minutes and $100 to spend.
 |
| We again live it up with prawns, and watch as the cook prepares the food in the spacious kitchen |
As
we arrive, everyone is packing up. No problem. We are after Makonde -
carved Ebony. There is a feeding frenzy for 10 minutes, and we end up
carrying arm fulls of stuff back to the hotels. We are almost out of
local cash.
Dinner at one of Maputo best restaurants. Mimos.
We
seem to have a much higher hit rate where everyone finds the food
"perfect" in Africa than we are used to in North America, and certainly
Europe. Here is another. This place was truly a fantastic meal -
everyone agrees this was one of the top three
Sunday,
after a great night of lounging in 5 star comforts, and we are out
looking for final bits to buy with our last Mozambican money - it's not
worth anything except perhaps in Zim. This place certainly has its
pleasant side, and I could happily work here for a few months.
While
packing the van, a beggar type guy approaches me with his tale of woe. I
am usually totally impervious to these sad stories, but this one really
is very sad.
 |
As we get off the boat, the sun is getting close to sunset. We have 30 minutes and $100 to spend. |
He says he's a teacher from Tanzania, who has fallen out
with the government. He's trying to get to South Africa, but has been
waiting for a visa for months. His family is still back in Tanzania. He
is a teacher but cannot get any work, and lives hour by hour as he is
constantly robbed by others. Not unusual, probably not even terribly
tragic compared to some. I give him some cash. I wonder how he survives
and he heads off to buy some food.....
 |
| We buy a few more touristy items Makonde's, actually from Tanzania And head towards Home |
We
have all decided the the pleasures of Maputo have been had, and again
head out, East and South, this time toward SA. It's not what any of us
want anymore, its just a gateway back to Toronto. In itself, no longer
any great shakes when it comes to living.
No doubt we will come to terms with "civilisation" especially the Canadian version when we have to endure it again.
 |
| The Mozambican border crossing into SA |
I
think back to when Ilge & I first left Africa back in 1980. I
needed to update my career, it being at least 5 years out of date after
so long just doing things I had training and experience in. For 20 years
after that, we forgot all about what Africa had. No, that's not quite
true, we simple decided to live somewhere else and withdrew from
Africa's potential. Now in retrospect, we see that it is all still here
inside us in all of it's multi faceted and many obscure, obtuse and
downright awful pitfalls and dangers. For those of us with a bit of
adventure in them, it still enthrals and captivates us.
For
those who do not know it, cannot love it, or are simply ignorant of the
place, it's just a continent of war, nepotism, drought, stupid
dictators, poverty and worse.
Living it, daily, accepting it's faults and potential, you are quite simply on a different planet.
Odometer: 313581 Distance Travelled: 1106Km Trip Distance: 1050Km, Total Trip 7904 Km
September 13th: Spy Road, Durban, South Africa. Elevation 150M
OK. This is it, we are finally on our way home, any second in fact. I type my final bits before we depart. I have organised to take Mike, Kerry, Jose and his wife Rita out to "The best Curry place in Africa". We are heading out for lunch, and to settle financial details with Jose regarding the payments for the cruiser, which should by now be steaming away from here.
We have been at Mike & Kerry's for nearly a week, and believe me, we know it's definitely time to leave here.
I must admit (must I?) that I am really glad to be leaving, not for want of fun things to do, or exciting vacation functionality, or because we are travelled out, but because we are now "At An End" and recognise our limits of staying here any longer.
Both Kayla and I find Mike has become (or always was) pretty obnoxious towards us. We need to leave here
Last week, we leave Iqana Lodge after 3 days, and tooddle down to Hluhluwe
(that SH'SHLewee) Umfolozi Park right in the middle of ZuluLand -
another final redoubt for the worlds ever dwindling supply of Rhinos -
probably the biggest concentration I have ever been to: something like
1400 White and 1100 Black Rhinos - a truly incredible number.
Apparently at least a fifth of the world's black and white rhino population reside here. There are more Rhino's than the elephant population in fact.
The cell phone is busy again booking up our last few days here in the southern hemisphere.
We do our last "wilds" supermarket purchases in the town before we head into the park - we are really not used to so much in the way of stuff to buy - I will not say I've missed these goods, but after a few months in Zim and Mozambique, you do recognise them for what they are: simply mainly luxuries.
The park is just down the road, and all I needed to say was that we had booked in, and we are through the gates.
Within a few hundred metres of the gate, 3 rhino, elephants, lotsastuff. There are water holes here. Very pretty area, used to be the Zulu kings own private game reserve before the Brits pillaged it.
We have pre booked our stay at "Hill Top". A fancy name for a lodge, but it is in fact on top of a hill with fantastic views, and turns out to be quite nice in a touristy kind of way.
We immediately notice that we are totally back in Tourist Country. Germans, French, Japanese, Brits. All asking inane questions and changing their money at the local desk rate (about 20% less than bank rate). What beginners!
We
feel like we are back in so called "civilisation" again, even though we
are hundreds of miles off the beaten track here, it is still very much
on the SA tourist circuit.
It's just one night here. Two double rondavels with a shared kitchen.
A swimming pool attracts our attention, and we are off. Parent & kids games. WOW! this pool is one hell of a chlorine trap, I retire to the shower to get it off . It's awful.
Game run, another toodle. Not much.
Back to Hill Top base and dining.
We find that we have left a large part of our food at the supermarket. We did not pay for it, so I guess that's ok.
These thoughts are uppermost in my mind as we exit the park gate (not much stuff on route), and head toward the N2.
South Africa again. Neuroses to the fore, lock the doors, charge up the cell phone, PANIC!!!!
It's a relatively short trip to Durban - only about 3 hours, but it feels much longer, probably my dread at leaving our halcyon days finally behind us and quite simply irrecoverable.......
Durban, We meet Mike & Kerry at the surgery, with just a little help from some cell phone directions - as it's Wednesday they end at 1:00PM. Up to a restaurant in Kloof (just up the road from Pinetown) to catch up.
Seems like a lot has happened since Kayla & I left what? 11 weeks ago.
Robbery (they were out), Kerry's mother died and her daughter had her car (and lots of her bosses cash) stolen. Wow - what a lotacrap to live through! Apparently the thieves were disturbed, as when they arrived home, all sorts of stuff (including our packed suitcase) was strewn around the house and lawn.
We catch up, check out the food, coffee and head back to re acquaint with the dogs. We need to take the roofbox off to get into the grounds - electric fences
all over. This time the roof box is much heavier than last time we took
it off, but at least it is not raining (like last time we did this).
Ilge is fascinated by the local bird life in the trees around the house.
It is a lot cooler than when we left. Positively cold at night in fact.
We settle into leaving.
Sorting & Packing, organising and disposing.
I eventually call the shipping line, and find out that the boat to take
the cruiser back to Hamilton Ontario, just down the road from home in
fact, actually leaves in 5 days - next Monday! That means its doing all
the paperwork, packing and organising in about a day & a half. It
needs to be at the dock 3 days before it gets loaded. It turns out that
we have an extra few days, but we get active fast.
The
kids seem to simply set into a TV and Dog mode. Aiden anxious to go,
Kayla dreading an extra 5 days here, with just me, Mike & Kerry.
September 13th: Spy Road, Durban, South Africa. Elevation 150M
 |
| Iqana Game Ranch - a truly lovely place |
 |
| It's 6:30AM, the sun is rising to my right |
 |
| A swimming pool attracts our attention in Hluhluwe |
OK. This is it, we are finally on our way home, any second in fact. I type my final bits before we depart. I have organised to take Mike, Kerry, Jose and his wife Rita out to "The best Curry place in Africa". We are heading out for lunch, and to settle financial details with Jose regarding the payments for the cruiser, which should by now be steaming away from here.
We have been at Mike & Kerry's for nearly a week, and believe me, we know it's definitely time to leave here.
 |
| Within a few hundred metres of the gate |
I must admit (must I?) that I am really glad to be leaving, not for want of fun things to do, or exciting vacation functionality, or because we are travelled out, but because we are now "At An End" and recognise our limits of staying here any longer.
Both Kayla and I find Mike has become (or always was) pretty obnoxious towards us. We need to leave here
 |
| 3 rhino |
Apparently at least a fifth of the world's black and white rhino population reside here. There are more Rhino's than the elephant population in fact.
The cell phone is busy again booking up our last few days here in the southern hemisphere.
 |
| Apparently at least a fifth of the world's black |
We do our last "wilds" supermarket purchases in the town before we head into the park - we are really not used to so much in the way of stuff to buy - I will not say I've missed these goods, but after a few months in Zim and Mozambique, you do recognise them for what they are: simply mainly luxuries.
The park is just down the road, and all I needed to say was that we had booked in, and we are through the gates.
 |
| Elephants, lotsastuff |
Within a few hundred metres of the gate, 3 rhino, elephants, lotsastuff. There are water holes here. Very pretty area, used to be the Zulu kings own private game reserve before the Brits pillaged it.
We have pre booked our stay at "Hill Top". A fancy name for a lodge, but it is in fact on top of a hill with fantastic views, and turns out to be quite nice in a touristy kind of way.
 |
| A world beating white rhino population reside here |
We immediately notice that we are totally back in Tourist Country. Germans, French, Japanese, Brits. All asking inane questions and changing their money at the local desk rate (about 20% less than bank rate). What beginners!
 |
| Yep, it's all here |
It's just one night here. Two double rondavels with a shared kitchen.
A swimming pool attracts our attention, and we are off. Parent & kids games. WOW! this pool is one hell of a chlorine trap, I retire to the shower to get it off . It's awful.
Game run, another toodle. Not much.
Back to Hill Top base and dining.
We find that we have left a large part of our food at the supermarket. We did not pay for it, so I guess that's ok.
We avoid starvation
 |
| And the usual cute stuff |
Still,
we fish around for a home made nosh. No light on the paths, but that's
ok. The kitchen is great. Probably our last really great Southern
Hemisphere night of stars. It's cold, but once again, stunningly
beautiful for this towny folk.
Come
morning, and it's our final family loop round a game park. I realise it
may be the last EVER. Aiden is now 15, and will probably not want to
come this way with his parents again. Ilge & I are always game to
head off here, but without the kids? Who knows.
 |
| Ilge is fascinated by the local bird life Here, Mike & Kerry's bird bath |
These thoughts are uppermost in my mind as we exit the park gate (not much stuff on route), and head toward the N2.
South Africa again. Neuroses to the fore, lock the doors, charge up the cell phone, PANIC!!!!
It's a relatively short trip to Durban - only about 3 hours, but it feels much longer, probably my dread at leaving our halcyon days finally behind us and quite simply irrecoverable.......
.jpg) |
| The Himmeville Arms on our way to Sani Pass |
 |
| Our hotel for the week end |
Durban, We meet Mike & Kerry at the surgery, with just a little help from some cell phone directions - as it's Wednesday they end at 1:00PM. Up to a restaurant in Kloof (just up the road from Pinetown) to catch up.
Seems like a lot has happened since Kayla & I left what? 11 weeks ago.
Robbery (they were out), Kerry's mother died and her daughter had her car (and lots of her bosses cash) stolen. Wow - what a lotacrap to live through! Apparently the thieves were disturbed, as when they arrived home, all sorts of stuff (including our packed suitcase) was strewn around the house and lawn.
 |
| Kerry has booked a driver to take us up to Sani Top pub. Oh Joy! |
 |
| I didn't have the time to see these last time |
Ilge is fascinated by the local bird life in the trees around the house.
It is a lot cooler than when we left. Positively cold at night in fact.
We settle into leaving.
Sorting & Packing, organising and disposing.
 |
| No, this is real tourist stuff complete with a guided tour of the road up |
.jpg) |
| This looks familiar |
 |
| Sani Top Been there, |
 |
| Done That Sani Top pub |
We
pack a pile of stuff into our time while we are all together, call up a
few folks we met on route (Pam & Alan from Bulawayo, and Justin
from Hazyview), book flights for Ilge & Aiden to get up to Joburg,
buy a few books and say our communal goodbyes.
The Butcher Block - our favourite restaurant in Pinetown, gets another visit from us all.
The weekend of 6th/ 8th up to Himeville: gateway to Sani Pass. Kerry generously lends us her car for the trip. Last time we came this way in the Cruiser, it took about 5 hours to get there.
At
the Himmeville Arms, our hotel for the week end, the Rugby is on (or
was it Cricket?) , monopolising the TV and everyone in this sport mad
nation, So that is about all that happens while we are there. Not much
to go to near abouts except eat and drink - not too bad a past time.
Kerry has booked a driver (and one of those new fangled LandCruisers - I prefer mine), to take us up to Sani Top pub - "The highest pub in Africa". Of course, it does not have the excitement that it did last time with the family and our accommodation reliant on the cruisers ability to crest the next ridge: No, this is real tourist stuff complete with a guided tour of the road up (?), and some of the Lesotho residents. I find it all immensely boring and condescending at the same time.
Back to the chalet for lunch and down the hill - a first for us at the ice bend, to SA again by 15:00. Beautiful drive, but a lot of prattle from our driver. ("Isn't it amazing?", well, no actually). Returning on Sunday,
Can't say that I enjoyed it
Monday and we all scout out the beach front and load up with a pile of stuff for friends, Christmas, whatever we can rationalise in fact. Back to pack it all into the cruiser.
Eventually, the Cruiser gets loaded, and its time to send it on its way & I'm down to the docks with it. Its just "Leave it there with the keys in it", and I leave. (It arrived safely 6 weeks later). Lunch with Jose - what a fantastic guy! Thanks again Jose! We head back to Kerry's old pub for a final pint and then to the airport.
Ilge & Aiden depart, Kayla & I feel left behind.
Kerry, God Bless her, has given our final days of freedom here as we use her car for a few days. Kayla & I can finally get out of this place to some horse riding in the Dracks.
We head out in a vague direction toward the Dracks knowing there is the perfect place for us somewhere. An overnight at some forgotten hotel, then into the Giant
Castle for our morning coffee.
Eventually we find it: Mount Lebanon Park. It is owned and run by Ashley who is a Brit from way back who has lived in SA for decades. He loves horses and everything to do with them.
What a terrific location in the heart of a World Heritage site in the Dracks.
What a place, and it's exactly what we want. Pristine environment, miles from everywhere, Ashley takes us on some truly incredible treks. riding under, around and through the mountains and we have 3 great final days in the beautiful place.
However, we finally depart and trudge back to Durban in the rain. Back to our temporary home in the Southern Hemisphere.
Wonderful, but, I will be glad to get on the plane again. As much because I miss Zim as I miss Canada and the other half of the family. We have done our "trip of a lifetime" again. We have all survived and loved (almost) every minute of it.
I will be back, maybe to live out my waning days here (wonder if I will ever have "waning" days?), but that is still (hopefully....) a long time off.
God! I love this continent!
And with one mighty flick of the computer power button, he was gone..........
 |
| Some of the Lesotho residents Total tourist rubbish. All included in the package |
 |
| One of those new fangled LandCruisers - I prefer mine |
 |
| A first for us at the ice bend |
 |
| Beautiful drive, but a lot of prattle from our driver. ("Isn't it amazing?", well, no actually) |
 |
| Glad to get back to SA again I found it all immensely boring and condescending at the same time |
The weekend of 6th/ 8th up to Himeville: gateway to Sani Pass. Kerry generously lends us her car for the trip. Last time we came this way in the Cruiser, it took about 5 hours to get there.
 |
| then into the Giant Castle for our morning coffee |
 |
| Eventually we find it: |
 |
| Mount Lebanon Park |
 |
| Ashley takes us on some truly incredible treks. |
Kerry has booked a driver (and one of those new fangled LandCruisers - I prefer mine), to take us up to Sani Top pub - "The highest pub in Africa". Of course, it does not have the excitement that it did last time with the family and our accommodation reliant on the cruisers ability to crest the next ridge: No, this is real tourist stuff complete with a guided tour of the road up (?), and some of the Lesotho residents. I find it all immensely boring and condescending at the same time.
Back to the chalet for lunch and down the hill - a first for us at the ice bend, to SA again by 15:00. Beautiful drive, but a lot of prattle from our driver. ("Isn't it amazing?", well, no actually). Returning on Sunday,
Can't say that I enjoyed it
 |
| riding under, around and through the mountains |
Monday and we all scout out the beach front and load up with a pile of stuff for friends, Christmas, whatever we can rationalise in fact. Back to pack it all into the cruiser.
Eventually, the Cruiser gets loaded, and its time to send it on its way & I'm down to the docks with it. Its just "Leave it there with the keys in it", and I leave. (It arrived safely 6 weeks later). Lunch with Jose - what a fantastic guy! Thanks again Jose! We head back to Kerry's old pub for a final pint and then to the airport.
Ilge & Aiden depart, Kayla & I feel left behind.
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| and we have 3 great final days |
Kerry, God Bless her, has given our final days of freedom here as we use her car for a few days. Kayla & I can finally get out of this place to some horse riding in the Dracks.
We head out in a vague direction toward the Dracks knowing there is the perfect place for us somewhere. An overnight at some forgotten hotel, then into the Giant
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| in this beautiful place |
Eventually we find it: Mount Lebanon Park. It is owned and run by Ashley who is a Brit from way back who has lived in SA for decades. He loves horses and everything to do with them.
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| However, we finally depart and trudge back |
What a terrific location in the heart of a World Heritage site in the Dracks.
What a place, and it's exactly what we want. Pristine environment, miles from everywhere, Ashley takes us on some truly incredible treks. riding under, around and through the mountains and we have 3 great final days in the beautiful place.
However, we finally depart and trudge back to Durban in the rain. Back to our temporary home in the Southern Hemisphere.
Wonderful, but, I will be glad to get on the plane again. As much because I miss Zim as I miss Canada and the other half of the family. We have done our "trip of a lifetime" again. We have all survived and loved (almost) every minute of it.
I will be back, maybe to live out my waning days here (wonder if I will ever have "waning" days?), but that is still (hopefully....) a long time off.
God! I love this continent!
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| to Durban in the rain. Here, the Durban township (stay away!) |
Odometer: 314046 Distance Travelled: 465Km Trip Distance: 360Km, Total Trip 8369Km
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
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Hluhluwe Imfolozi ParlI remember shopping in the nearby town, but left the main grub in the supermarket. Such is the travels of aging folk |
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| This hurt..... Probably Iqana Lodge |
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| Aiden insisted on yanking me up. Ouch! |
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| Damn kids! |
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| We stay with Mike and Kerry in Durban It sort of works, but wouldn't do it again |
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| We thank them with a "Guided tour" of Sani Pass Pretty bad, ands preferably forgettable |
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| There was a RoRo boat in the harbour leaving within a day or so I had to rush the van down to the port and so we were vehicle less |
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| And we had several days left in SA to kill |
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| Kayla desperately wanted one last galop in the Draks |
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| And Kerry lent us he beat up car (thanks again) |
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| So, we both had our final wishes fulfilled in our last days here |
And then as the scribe noted above, in one mighty click, we were heading back "Home", which actually was home then, and still is all these years later.
From your Correspondent/ April 2nd 2025
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