August 8th. 2003 Nauti Gall, Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe.
Elevation 485m 👍 |
| Not exactly recommended, Peter and Maureen's hire car working it's way through Hwange park |
Cruising across Lake Kariba in our 15 metre houseboat. The hills of Southern Zambia fade into the mists about 30Km to the North. We are now heading out from the town of Kariba toward Matusadona Park in northern Zim. We pass several "Kapenta" (tiny sardines teeming in the lake) boats on the way. There are far fewer than 3 years ago. Absolutely no Diesel for running them these days. Comrade Bob at work again.
It is only 150Km to Sinamatella, 100Km of it full glorious wide tar. Only about 35Km is dirt and this only mildly corrugated - by African standards anyway. Peter & Mo get the feel of the African experience first hand.
Heading down the last 100Km, through a particularly nasty piece of winding hilly road, we pass several broken down trucks. Always on bends on hills. This is the main road into Zambia from Durban and Mozambican ports, so it's very busy with heavy traffic. AS we head down past the remains of a truck which recently impaled itself on a solid lump of vertical rock, I notice my break pedal is on the floor. Oooops! Luckily (as I find out later), there is a fail safe for front or back failure, and I coast through to the border, bowed but not beaten.
By 10:00 we have retraced our journey back across the lake to our bush camp at Warthogs, and headed out on the tender. We grab our bags, say hi to the Joseph and depart again.
The next trip is to Matusadona Game Park a really remote area, for a close up view of the wildlife.
As Peter & I looked after the food for the trip, we are obviously short on some important items, so we decide to fix up dinner somewhere out here on the lake. No one answers our radio calls, so its cell phone again. We are probably 60KM from anywhere with a bath here, but withing 5 minutes, we have talked to our Kariba contact and 2 restaurants out here on the islands.
During dinner, (cost about one months salary for a local - about $US4.00), which was lavish to say the least, we hear of the latest horror story. It appears that there has been a tragedy on the lower Zambezi. One of the canoeing companies has had a teenager taken out of a canoe by a croc that actually jumped in! Jesus. "Very unusual" we hear.
Gordon Bennet! Details are thin, but the body has not been recovered.
This is what we are doing in 2 days! Gulp!
We later learn that it was a trip by the company that came very highly recommended, and the whole family was there when she was taken. "They found some of her in one big one", we hear later. Significant reality indeed. Surprisingly, sleep is not as relaxed as last night.
When we get back on the boat, Maureen is asleep, but we all wait to find out if she is in a coma come sun rise.
The following day, Maureen is still alive and very hungry. Everyone except me, (I've really had it with Bacon & Egg breakfasts), head out for a luxury buffet breakfast. The Lucky beans have gone, and now there are stones in the bowls. Word seems to be out! She is happy that she has made a mark on Africa.A legend in her own time indeed.
Leaving the dock, the rudder gets ripped in the shallow water. We have visions of speed boats coming from Kariba with a pile of gleaming spares to fix it.
Not so.
Henry and Steve pull up the covering boards, and announce that they need a "nut for this bolt" holding up a rusted piece of metal as he produces the kind of bucketful of old trash that you would instantly throw out of your home workshop as being totally useless, and starts to dig. He does not find one here, but he does have a bowlful of even worse rubbish, previously covered and gummed together in white paint. I ease a few bits out of the solid lump of muck and dig in.
 |
| Vic Falls crafts market Somehow these folk still keep going |
We have had a truly excellent stay in Zim since we arrived. No problems, welcomes wherever we go, fantastic scenery, people and activities. This current trip here in Kariba is certainly no exception. Peter & Maureen agree that this is probably the best vacation they have ever had, I'm working on the "ever likely to have".
After our excesses in Vic Falls, doing the VF extremes, it was time to introduce the newly arrived tourist to Africa in the rough.
 |
| Local wildlife near Sinamatella |
Peter hired a Mazda 323 which surprisingly, could be dropped at Kariba, for an extra $US100.00, and on Friday 1st August, our time to leave Lokathula Lodge.
We have finalised our itinerary: Hwange, Zambia, Kariba, Houseboat, Lower Zambezi canoeing and Mana Pools with game walks. Pretty much all confirmed and ready to go upon arrival. I still have no access to email or similar, (my servers down I think), and we have to use Kaylas to get our details to the hotel in Zambia. I have used our Kariba contact: known on the lonelyplanet.com as "flatdog", to bounce a few ideas and request off of. She has all of the Kariba excesses sorted out for us, and we have both promised the other a free beer once we meet..
 |
| We grab piles of firewood, set up our camp, and await the night with Gin & Tonics at the ready - hey who said we have to rough it? |
Maureen takes charge of the shopping for out camping, I get bags of Mielie meal -` the staple food here, for Abbiot & Abisha. With full truck and car, we trekked down to Sinamatella camp in Hwange Park.
 |
| Peter has a yearning to get some Christmas card shot in the bush with a few props |
One night here, and two at Masuma Dam for their initiation. On route, we stopped off at several of the craft villages to see if there was anything we could get on the way back up. Somehow these folk still keep going. Down here there are very few folk who would be buying these crafts these days. Excellent art and crafts all around us.
 |
| Getting the light right for the perfect shot |
 |
| obviously takes time |
It is only 150Km to Sinamatella, 100Km of it full glorious wide tar. Only about 35Km is dirt and this only mildly corrugated - by African standards anyway. Peter & Mo get the feel of the African experience first hand.
 |
| We're used to this, |
Once again, it feels good to be back at the camp. We each have a 3 bedroom lodge which like all the lodges and restaurant, overlooks the grand view of Africa trailing off into the haze which I keep going on about. We pay the full going rate. Hoping it goes to feed people and animals.
The lodges are now pretty basic, glories of the past still around, but everything patched and worn. Everything is still spotless and the linens worn but perfectly clean. The plumbing is only just still working, and the shower has seen many better days. The fridge is still alive, and hot water comes from a strange concoction of wood boiler and toilet flushing devices.
Showering is an experience here.
 |
| Peter & Maureen slowly adapt |
The lodges are now pretty basic, glories of the past still around, but everything patched and worn. Everything is still spotless and the linens worn but perfectly clean. The plumbing is only just still working, and the shower has seen many better days. The fridge is still alive, and hot water comes from a strange concoction of wood boiler and toilet flushing devices.
 |
| We are become Africa |
Showering is an experience here.
We order our regulation fantastic Chicken/ Beef curry at the restaurant, and all play cards as the evening sets in.
Although we now get more for the dollar in local cash, the full implications of this only come once we pay for the food. What was $ZIM3000 at 5:00PM, is now $ZIM4500 at 8:00PM: I've never had a meal increase in price as I was eating it, or experienced inflation like this! This really is hyper inflation.
 |
| As there are lions with cubs around, we drive to the water pump with Abiot |
As it was only an increase of $0.50 per meal, we decided to be noble about it and pay up. It was really good after all. We talk to several of the folks in the restaurant: all locals or on contract here. The evening is rounded off with some of my 15 year old Malt which Peter brought from Toronto. Perfect nightcap.
I volunteer to do an early morning game run at 6:00AM, no takers in the family, just Peter, Mo & I. The guests have genuine palpitations upon seeing Giraffe, Elephant, Kudu etc as the sun rises. Even I, jaded African adventurer that I am, eventually reach for the cameras. Back for breakfast at Sinamatella, and I confirm Masuma for our 2 nights.
 |
| We all do an overnight at Masuma Dam |
We still have no confirmation regarding our hotel booking in Zambia. At least, our free visas which is what I'm more interested in. It takes about and hour to finally get through to Livingstone, and they ask me for the fax number of where we are staying that night. Laugh! Well, one thing Masuma does not have is a fax, so, hoping for the best, I redirect it to Lokathula and hope.
 |
| Throughout the day, just masses of animals arrive as we hang out at the kitchen, |
This being Africa (or anywhere else I guess), upon arrival at Masuma, we find we have been double booked, with a white hunter and his "Tilley" clients. (NOTE: This is definitely an indication of our disrespect for these said "Tilley" wearer. We are of course being far more relaxed and African like in our dirty T shirts, and unmentionable shorts). However, as we know about Shumba Hide from our last pass through, we are quite happy to head down there for the night. Wrong actually as the aforementioned Tilley set saw 12 Lions that night!.
 |
| As work our way through pots of tea and our cans and various vittles |
We know there are no attendants here as the White Hunter dude has brought the guy out when he passed through this morning, so the place is totally ours bar none. Still, we go - it's about 24Km - another hour as the road is a little more deteriorated here.
As we drive in, there is an almost Rousseau look to the place: reminds us of Etosha - animals everywhere, elephants, a herd of Sable, Zebra, Cape Buffalo - you get the picture. We find out why when we get to the hole. The family group walk to the platform for a grand view of the wildlife around the water hole. The problem is, there is no water at the hole, and it is almost dry. No diesel/ no attendant we assume.
 |
| we finally say out goodbyes to Abiot |
There are several elephant patiently waiting for the pump to start, and whenever one of us approaches sticks their trunk in the air hoping, I assume, to sniff life giving diesel fumes. Not to be. As the sun heads off west, the animals start to give up in ones and twos, then groups and herds. They are all heading to Masuma, so we will probably see them tomorrow morning.
Being this remote, Aiden & Kayla begin learning to drive, working out which pedals to push as elephants are approaching is probably not the recommended way to learn, but we avoid all elephants and most bushes on the return to our site, grab piles of firewood, set up our camp, and await the night with Gin & Tonics at the ready - hey who said we have to rough it?
 |
| And we head out to our next destination |
We close the gate at 6:00PM as darkness falls.
Most of the wildlife is shut out from the vaguely secure compound. We have most of the luxuries here: fire place, sink, water - cooking and drinking, his & her toilets. The evening is spent coaxing the gas burner into flame, and roasting one of our salvaged kilo of bacon into crispiness. For a scratch camp meal, we eat very well.
 |
| We take the main road back out of the park to Vic Falls. |
During the darkness, we hear lions and Hyena. The kids take the new spotlight around the perimeter fence (this camp is only about 2 acres) checking for eye reflections. There are several pairs glowing back at us. After we go to bed, the roars and shrieks continue. We hear the unmistakable hunting growl of a lion, probably no more the 25 metres away from Peter & Mo's tent..........
The night, however, complete with the requisite glorious starry sky, eventually passes and our morning inventory shows that with no one was eaten.
 |
| One of my favourite locations (Sinamatella Lodge), with 2 of my favourite people |
We take our time packing. Peter has a yearning to get some Christmas card shot in the bush with a few props. Getting the light right for the perfect shot obviously takes time.
 |
| The way back up is shopping time, we stop & shop & bargain and exchange. T shirts, socks (even Maureen's nail polish) it all can be taken at par here |
Finally, we are done, and head back to arrive at Masuma about 10:30 - we missed the lions who had been at the dam all night and finally left at 7:30AM.
 |
| local colour, and culture on the road to Vic Falls |
As there are lions with cubs around, we do not walk to the water pump which we had planned, but drive there with Abiot. Tracking lions there and back. No tracks, so they are still in the bush between the pump and the dam. Throughout the day, just masses of animals arrive as we hang out at the kitchen, work our way through pots of tea and our cans and various vittles. How can I express it best? Probably with this little snippet:
 |
| We have 45 minutes to do the Zambian side of the falls, |
Maureen: "Look there are more elephants coming"
Aiden: "There always are"
An all day parade.
We simply relax and suck it all in. This is (have I mentioned this before?) such a truly incredible experience.
As this is Masuma, and this is one of the few places that have water, the parade goes on most of the day. We even recognise an elephant we saw at Shumba.
 |
| complete with photo ops |
I talk to Abiot, he just loves the animals here. The actual facts of working here are however not quite as Halcyon.
 |
| and rainbows |
He has worked here nearly 6 years, but is still on "contract", ie not permanent. His salary is $ZIM4000 per month,(about $US1.50) and he has not been paid for 2 months. He has a boy who is 4 years old, and it costs $ZIM20,000 for the uniform, plus $ZIM5000 per term. You can work out the fine points of living like this. Abisha has 3 kids - how does he manage? Well, the answer is that no one does here.
Never too many elephants, but come morning, still no lions.
Onward & outward, there's still Mana
We offload the mielie to Abiot, both Peter & I give him some cash (both more than his monthly salary - big deal huh?), take his address and wish him well as we take the main road back out of the park to Vic Falls.
 |
| Avoiding death defying chasms all around the pathways |
The way back up is shopping time, we stop & shop & bargain and exchange. T shirts, socks (even Maureens nail polish) it all can be taken at par here. We pile the stuff into the van and car somehow, and after a stop or two for local colour, reach Vic Falls around 3:00. Amazingly, the fax for our Zambian entry is there at Lokathula. T shirts for the kids, some artwork for Maureen, and its out of the country.
 |
| Finally, we are complete with full group photo ops |
Zambian immigration authorities simply look up our manifest, check the names, stamp us in and its customs time for the vehicles. Temporary import permit, some insurance ($US15 this time - just for 24 hours, but valid for a month), and we are off to the Maramba River Lodge, arriving just as the light fades. It's shower time. The missus has had some incredible skin rash for 2 days, and it peaks today. She does not feel very good about much, so the rest of us luxuriate in a few Mosi Oa Tunya beers (nothing like as good as Zambezi beer) before a very acceptable dining experience.
 |
| pausing only to take piss of amusing signs, we move back to town |
The lodge is a bit of a crock. Forget "River", read "Swamp". The rooms are pretty pathetic, showers are as primeval as Hwange, there is not even a glass to drink out of. The staff are friendly, but pretty incompetent. I'm already missing Zim. Being philosophic, we saved the $US30.00 per person (including kids?) to get into the country, so as we are paying $US80.00 for the room, we are actually being paid to stay here...... I can buy that - just. Enough whining.
Not much to say about the place, food was pretty good..... In the morning I try to get some local currency, pretty difficult even though it's all legal. Finally get some, get some gas and do the other side of the falls.
 |
| Warthogs Bush Camp "The people from Canada have arrived" |
I'm running a tight ship here as we (read I) want to be in Kariba - 530Km away before the border closes at 6:00. That means 45 minutes to do the Zambian side of the falls, complete with photo ops and rainbows, avoiding death defying chasms all around the pathways - don't let your 5 year old head out on their own here folks! Personally, I think the Zambian side is a more balanced and pretty sight than the Zim side - I could be wrong.
Before we leave, I call Louisa of Warthogs fame: she is in Harare, but I give her a request for our evening meal in Kariba before we leave Maramba. Lets get this trip organised!
 |
| more souvenirs |
We are in and out by 9:45, pausing only to take piss of amusing signs, we move back to town, but piss around in Livingstone till 10:30 - 30 minutes behind already.
The rest of the day is spent hacking the Livingstone - Kariba highway. Luckily, it is all excellent tar, so we could travel at 100Km/ hour a lot of the way. Normally, I try to limit my speed to 90KPM and usually 80 if we are not in a hurry, cows, goats and other miscellaneous animals do tend to make a mess of the vehicle..
 |
| & crafts |
It is a long, but fast trip. All the way is Africa at it's (almost) lowest level. We see as we pass nothing more than two poles with grass strung between them "Bicycle Repair Shop" say the sign. Coming into town, 3 sided grass covered poles with about 10 small boxes of candies. At Choma, we stop at a "Supermarket". All that they have are some cookies, soap, and some mielie meal. Obviously no middle classes reside within 100Km of here.
I first came to Zambia 30 years ago, and remember the sad level of "Commerce" here. It is still exactly the same: simply bags of charcoal and sheafs of thatching grass on the road side. Nothing is different from so long ago. I would have hoped that some things would improve the lot of these people, but no such findings along all 530KM of flat, uninspiring landscape.
 |
| This lodge backs onto Lake Kariba, |
At Mazambuka - about 350Km out of Livingstone, we fill up with fuel. I need a full tank, plus 3 x 28Lire containers filled up for the Zim side of the trip. There is a large sugar plantation here, so the supermarket here is almost recognisable as such. Butter, cheese, milk, sugar and coffee. Wow - a gold mine.
It was while we has just gone through Mazabuka that I suddenly realised that I had passed the rubicon as it were. As of this moment, I was completely bush. As my left arm scorches in the winter sun as I drive East, this was my natural mode of living and I love it! All the office routine, all the political crap I have to put up with from suppliers, it's just dross out here.
 |
| so there are plenty of photo ops with Hippos out of the water. |
At 5:40PM, we roll into the Zambian border post. A final fill up of both vehicles at the BP station here, and 10 minutes later are clearing customs and immigration into Zim.
 |
| to our bush camp at Warthogs |
As everyone wants to get out by 6:00, processing is a breeze. Surprisingly, we even get in with our double entry visa. I must admit I expected to argue this to some degree. It takes 20 minutes to clear both borders.
It's dark by now, but we have our directions for Warthogs Bush Camp about 10K out of Kariba. Thankfully, Ilge locates the place and we trundle in. We are expected. "The people from Canada have arrived" we hear the barman announce. Beers all round folks - We Made it folks - congratulations on a successfully executed plan!!
 |
| The sun sets, Steve our cook organises dinner as baboons circle around the fire |
Now we can relax.
Dinner is not what we requested, but is fantastic anyway. We pig out on warthog stew. "Pork" we are told until we ask for warthog steaks tomorrow.
"It is" we are told - great stuff.
We watch from the bar as Zebra pass by, just beyond the light from the bar, and elephant scrunch away in the distance.
The evening cook is also the security guard, just as the barman works behind the bar till 3:00AM, then hangs around as security and breakfast maker. Life can be hard here without a job, so if you want to work, get to do lots of stuff.
 |
| Once again the sun sets, this time over Lake Kariba We sit on deck, G&T in hand. |
In the morning, we begin to organise ourselves for the remainder of Peter & Mo's trip: three days on a houseboat (this one), followed by 4 days canoeing on the lower Zambezi, and then two days of walking in Mana Pools national park.
 |
| I snuggle into bed on the top deck with Peter, Mo and the family all around. I think what a life as we drift of into slumber on the top deck |
I have to immediately look after my brakes. As it happens, Kariba is exactly where I needed to bring the cruiser for brakes last time we came through (I think it was the rutted roads in Hwange both times), so I know where to head. Luckily, I pick up the barman who takes me to where it used to be, but it's miles away now. Finally I locate the place, and Alfred quickly spot the problem (broken brake pipe, probably shaken through in Hwange), and tells me to come back at 1:00.
 |
| Morning. Steve has tea, coffee and some breakfast goodies as we tumble out of our beds. |
Albert has taken over the old Land Cruiser repair operations from the previous owner who has moved to Tanzania, so he has lots of used spares in stock. In Toronto, a new one would have to be ordered. Here, he finds a pile of old pipes, and bends them to fit the bolt holes. He has to dismantle the master cylinder before it is working again, and while I'm here, I get a full oil check top up and service. He tells me that the guy who looks after it in Toronto has done "an excellent job. Perfect condition". There are two helpers who wash tyres, take off bits and find odds and sods. 4 hours later, I have (what turns out to be - ed) perfect brakes. The bill comes to $ZIM40,000 (about $US18.00) and that includes $ZIM22,000 for the pipe, and $ZIM 4000 for extra brake fluid. Three guys worked for 4 hours, did a perfect job for about $US7.00. TOTAL, not per hour folks. Are you reading this Jimmy?
 |
| I've forgotten our drugs at Warthogs So we came back for them on the tender, |
There is also the matter of laundry, (Patrick does this before he leaves), e-mail and more souvenirs & crafts. These seem to be looked after adequately by the ladies. Peter gets the steaks for the evening fodder, and Patrick our cook/ night watchman whips up the grub.
This lodge backs onto Lake Kariba, so there are plenty of photo ops with Hippos out of the water. Up before sunrise, Peter & I trek down to the water, but the two guard dogs have their own ideas about Hippos, and within 10 seconds they are all chased back into the lake.
 |
| By 10:00 we have retraced our journey back across the lake grab our bags, and depart again. |
A few last minute details, like some more crafts, a pie or two, return of the hire car, and we are ready for this boat trip. Down to the local supermarket for a few days supplies of food & booze - seems to be enough stuff here to sustain us for a while. Louisa finally arrives at the camp, and we head to a chandler for drinks and fishing stuff.
Louisa takes the cruiser back to warthogs, and after a stop off for various fuels and oil, and Henry, the captain heads out to the lake.
We tie up at an island about an hour out, find firewood for our barbeque and then wait and watch as Steve our on board cook prepares dinner.
 |
| back on houseboat on Lake Kariba |
Once again the sun sets, we sit on deck, G&T in hand. The Kapenta boats are now just spotlights in the darkness as we see the lights of Kariba twinkle in the distance.
What an adventure.
What is the SAS moto? Who Dares Wins?
Very apt I think as I snuggle into bed on the top deck with Peter, Mo and the family all around.
What will we dare to win tomorrow I wonder?
Our first full day on Nauti Gal, our new home.
 |
| We fill the tub from the lake and hang out |
Is that enough of a tickler to keep you reading through our Nauti Gall exploits?
Either way, back on houseboat on Lake Kariba, we are moored to a few trees on this small island about an hours cruise out of Kariba.
Things are a magical blend of luxury and pretty basic functionality here. We have a 45 foot houseboat with a tender boat, a cook, a captain and sights to see. Zim has very little fuel (we got a hundred litres), and no cooking gas, so luckily, as we have our own, we get cooked veg, plus tea and coffee.
Either way, back on houseboat on Lake Kariba, we are moored to a few trees on this small island about an hours cruise out of Kariba.
Things are a magical blend of luxury and pretty basic functionality here. We have a 45 foot houseboat with a tender boat, a cook, a captain and sights to see. Zim has very little fuel (we got a hundred litres), and no cooking gas, so luckily, as we have our own, we get cooked veg, plus tea and coffee.
 |
| in h |
Steve our cook, surveys our food. He seems to think we can manage ok if we get some chicken or fish. Well, maybe we should catch it?
The sun sets, Steve our cook organises dinner as baboons circle around the fire hoping to pick up some scraps. We dine on our braiied steaks and local Zim wine (frequenters of the Smith Party household would find them rather familiar), on the upper deck as the stars come out. As we get ready for our bed, which are on the top deck under the stars, we discover that we have left 2 of our bags in the car (including our malaria tabs), so amazingly, as there is cell signal here, and I use my phone (did I tell you not to leave home without one here?), and book up to get back to Warthogs for them in the morning.
All six of us happily settle down and close the screens on 3 sides to keep the wind down. The night is spent watching Kariba's lights and the constellations of the southern hemisphere. The Kapenta boats all have floodlights run by noisy generators, but we are zapped, and sleep is easy.
In the morning as the sun rises over the lake, the Kapenta boats are all gone. We have the island to ourselves. Steve has tea, coffee and some breakfast goodies as we tumble out of our beds.
The sun sets, Steve our cook organises dinner as baboons circle around the fire hoping to pick up some scraps. We dine on our braiied steaks and local Zim wine (frequenters of the Smith Party household would find them rather familiar), on the upper deck as the stars come out. As we get ready for our bed, which are on the top deck under the stars, we discover that we have left 2 of our bags in the car (including our malaria tabs), so amazingly, as there is cell signal here, and I use my phone (did I tell you not to leave home without one here?), and book up to get back to Warthogs for them in the morning.
 |
| The next direction is to Matusadona Game Park About 50Kms across the lake |
In the morning as the sun rises over the lake, the Kapenta boats are all gone. We have the island to ourselves. Steve has tea, coffee and some breakfast goodies as we tumble out of our beds.
 |
| Lots of sun beating down as we navigate |
There is a generator for electricity to keep the freezers cold, (we brought big blocks of ice), but it is broken. As this is Africa, we fix it. Remarkable considering the level of tools available, but withing 40 minutes, its running fine again.
By 10:00 we have retraced our journey back across the lake to our bush camp at Warthogs, and headed out on the tender. We grab our bags, say hi to the Joseph and depart again.
The next trip is to Matusadona Game Park a really remote area, for a close up view of the wildlife.
 |
| through a maze of surrealistic partially submerged trees |
 |
| The next trip is to Matusadona Game Park |
We make a reservation "Smith, party of 6", and reserve their dock for mooring the boat for the night.
Now some game viewing from our tender.
Elephant, crocs, waterbuck, more elephant. Lots of sun beating down as we navigate through a maze of surrealistic partially submerged trees.
Henry tells us that our reservation is about 90 minutes away, so we have to be back to leave by 4:00PM - no cruising at night here. Once again, we cruise through the lake as the evening gathers around us.
Now some game viewing from our tender.
 |
| Needs Caption |
 |
| Needs Caption |
 |
| Needs Caption |
 |
| Needs Caption |
 |
| Needs Caption |
 |
| Once again, we cruise through the lake as the evening gathers around us |
On Fothergill Island, named after the guy who co-ordinated "Operation Noah" to rescue the animals stranded as the Kariba waters rose with the new dam, we meet the manager and are warned about the Hippo that lives under the dock right next to our houseboat: "Just do not get between him and the water". We have a few drinks and hang out with the guests. Some have just speed boated across from Kariba, others flown in from Harare. We are the only foreigners. The place sleeps about 50, has it's own airstrip and is fully booked, looks like there is still a middle class here.
We sip our drinks and chat to the guests.
Being a bit peckish, Maureen, who has never been to Africa, decides to try some of the "nuts" in a the small bowl on one of the tables. Problem is, they are not nuts but counters in a popular game called (in Zim anyway) Tsorro, played throughout Africa.
"Mmmmn, these nuts are not very good!" we hear from Maureen.
It was only later when we were eating dinner that we work out what she had eaten. There is a great deal of amusement as we try to find someone with enough local knowledge to tell us whether these bean "Lucky Beans" as they are locally called, are poison or not. Obviously, many years, if not generations of handling have passed over these "nuts", not to mention the actual contents, damaging, poisonous or deadly.
We sip our drinks and chat to the guests.
Being a bit peckish, Maureen, who has never been to Africa, decides to try some of the "nuts" in a the small bowl on one of the tables. Problem is, they are not nuts but counters in a popular game called (in Zim anyway) Tsorro, played throughout Africa.
 |
| "Mmmmn, these nuts are not very good!" we hear from Maureen. |
"Mmmmn, these nuts are not very good!" we hear from Maureen.
It was only later when we were eating dinner that we work out what she had eaten. There is a great deal of amusement as we try to find someone with enough local knowledge to tell us whether these bean "Lucky Beans" as they are locally called, are poison or not. Obviously, many years, if not generations of handling have passed over these "nuts", not to mention the actual contents, damaging, poisonous or deadly.
 |
| Cards, books, more journal, battery permitting It's certainly not a luxury cruise |
Turns out they are not, but we monitor Maureens ability to live for a few hours that night. No one is sure if they are poisonous or not, as this has never happened before. There is much amusement amongst the guests, which we share (shame!).
Maureen leaves dinner early - she has a stomach ache. This is when we finally piece the Lucky Bean bits together.
Maureen leaves dinner early - she has a stomach ache. This is when we finally piece the Lucky Bean bits together.
During dinner, (cost about one months salary for a local - about $US4.00), which was lavish to say the least, we hear of the latest horror story. It appears that there has been a tragedy on the lower Zambezi. One of the canoeing companies has had a teenager taken out of a canoe by a croc that actually jumped in! Jesus. "Very unusual" we hear.
 |
| Which everyone is eternally grateful for Here, gin & tonics, lots of beers and dips in our tub |
This is what we are doing in 2 days! Gulp!
We later learn that it was a trip by the company that came very highly recommended, and the whole family was there when she was taken. "They found some of her in one big one", we hear later. Significant reality indeed. Surprisingly, sleep is not as relaxed as last night.
When we get back on the boat, Maureen is asleep, but we all wait to find out if she is in a coma come sun rise.
 |
| Evening for some more family fun This time, fishing |
The following day, Maureen is still alive and very hungry. Everyone except me, (I've really had it with Bacon & Egg breakfasts), head out for a luxury buffet breakfast. The Lucky beans have gone, and now there are stones in the bowls. Word seems to be out! She is happy that she has made a mark on Africa.A legend in her own time indeed.
Leaving the dock, the rudder gets ripped in the shallow water. We have visions of speed boats coming from Kariba with a pile of gleaming spares to fix it.
 |
| I have to take the wheel while Henry & Steve physically push the stern around the dock, |
Not so.
Henry and Steve pull up the covering boards, and announce that they need a "nut for this bolt" holding up a rusted piece of metal as he produces the kind of bucketful of old trash that you would instantly throw out of your home workshop as being totally useless, and starts to dig. He does not find one here, but he does have a bowlful of even worse rubbish, previously covered and gummed together in white paint. I ease a few bits out of the solid lump of muck and dig in.
 |
| Only in Africa can you get this kind of buzz |
Within 5 minutes, we have the perfect fit, de painted and oiled. 15 minutes later, after I have to take the wheel while Henry & Steve physically push the stern around the dock, we are back in open water. Another day on the lake begins.
Cards, books, more journal, battery permitting, gin & tonics, lots of beers, and dips in our tub. Evening for some more fishing and close with a Steve stew from our remaining steaks. We survive brilliantly. Only in Africa can you get this kind of buzz I think as we drift of into slumber on the top deck.
Returning to Kariba dock, we sort out our costs with Louisa, and off load our unused beers and drinks. For our 3 nights at Warthogs, and 3 nights on the lake, for the 6 of us, the total bill is the equivalent of $US320. There must be a mistake, but no, it's real enough. Wildly cheap
Before we leave Kariba, we have to stock up with various items, get our bits from Steve Pope's (our Mana guide) mother and head off to Chirundu.
We leave late, but after some hectic shuffling of bottles and backpacks, chaotic details and bits going awry, we leave.
Odometer: 310807 Distance Travelled: 905Km Trip Distance: 880Km, Total Trip 5130 Km
Cards, books, more journal, battery permitting, gin & tonics, lots of beers, and dips in our tub. Evening for some more fishing and close with a Steve stew from our remaining steaks. We survive brilliantly. Only in Africa can you get this kind of buzz I think as we drift of into slumber on the top deck.
 |
| Returning to Kariba dock, we sort out our costs with Louisa, tip everyone, and sadly depart |
Returning to Kariba dock, we sort out our costs with Louisa, and off load our unused beers and drinks. For our 3 nights at Warthogs, and 3 nights on the lake, for the 6 of us, the total bill is the equivalent of $US320. There must be a mistake, but no, it's real enough. Wildly cheap
Before we leave Kariba, we have to stock up with various items, get our bits from Steve Pope's (our Mana guide) mother and head off to Chirundu.
We leave late, but after some hectic shuffling of bottles and backpacks, chaotic details and bits going awry, we leave.
Odometer: 310807 Distance Travelled: 905Km Trip Distance: 880Km, Total Trip 5130 Km
And......... many, MANY years later, when I have nothing better to do than revisit these 25 year old blogs, this time to finally add many more pix from the video camera, for all you folks totally devoid of a realistic view of entertainment.
Here they are:
 |
| Our first stop after Vic Falls, Masuma Dam, Hwange |
 |
| My favourite place in the world |
 |
| Even Aiden & Kayla didn't get bored here |
 |
| A DUDE has flown in from Harare with a "sole occupancy" permit for the dam We head out to another really wild site |
 |
| Forget the fence or any "protection" |
 |
| We stock up on firewood |
 |
| And get ready for an evening of survival |
 |
| Against the Red in Tooth and Claw |
 |
| Of the local fauna |
 |
| There's a lot of animal activity, just over there |
 |
| But we survive, lions only a few meters from the tents Back to Masuma Dam |
 |
| And share the delight with Abiot |
 |
| This is one of the few places with water available in the park |
 |
| And, sadly, Hwange is over This on the Zambiuan side of the Falls |
 |
| It looks like we were pretty laid back parents |
 |
| Peter and Maureen model the latest water spray |
 |
| The Zambian side is a lot smaller than the Zim side |
 |
| If anything, it's even less barriered than the Zim side |
 |
| Mostly, the tourists have suitable gear |
 |
| We're old hands at this, so eschew such badges of begginerhood |
 |
| The Zim side is way off in the back |
 |
| Our final last 5 minutes before we need to leave to catch the Kariba border closing |
 |
| Henry, out captain on Nauti Gal, Kariba |
 |
| Sunset on Lake Kariba Really, superlatives need apply |
 |
| Well, most of us enjoyed the trip |
 |
| Here we all took being a tourist seriously |
 |
| Again, a "last". This one sunset on board before our next adventure down the lower Zambezi |
From your Correspondent/ May 12th 2025
No comments:
Post a Comment