2023 March 4th - April 15th Off to Australia
Dateline: 2023 April 15th, Urunga, NSW
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| My final destination in Oz: The Best of the Bight Cliff Top Camping |
The great Australian
Outback |
| Richard, my travel buddy, has permission to take a whole month off of his husbanding duties to travel DownUnda for my final Antipodean trip |
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| My swag from the US About 1/3 price |
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| Oh yes, we are first, or is it business class? It's incredibly comfortable, full flat Etihad to Abu Dhabi in a 777 My newly discovered favourite airplane |
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| I think we are having dinner over the Caspian Sea It was very good food |
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| Two flights, YYZ AUH and AUH SYD, about 30 hours Here, SYD COF, below, Annies place somewhere |
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| I guess this is what it's all about, Richard & Annie renew and greet |
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| And I renew and greet my lovely cruiser, aka, the ole gal |
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| Emma is here, on a week or so off She's back to Saudi Arabia in a few days |
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| We left on the 4th and arrived on the 7th Gary looks after the essentials |
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| I'm terrified of driving on the left I follow Gary into Coffs and bite the bullet on my return |
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| A buddy of mine (you know who you are) is star struck with Gary's equipment as it were. I send him all the shots that are fit to |
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| Richard is under strict instructions to keep saying "Keep Left", basic but it's working |
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| We return safely. This is a BIG deal for me |
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| We take our hosts out for a slap up dining experience Oz has become outrageously expensive since I was last here |
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| At the local, Urunga style |
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| We are right on the coast, so the Pacific is pretty much at the doorstep Heavy waves, I only go once, that's too much |
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| Ilge and I have been travelling in the Ole Gal since 2010 |
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| The current condition does not give me any clues about how it should be done |
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| I've totally forgotten how to set up the ole gal for outback travelling But we do a shopping trip to Coffs and it begins to gel after some fashion |
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| We had it down to a fine art It was so simple, everything (not very much) had a place |
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| To more practical matters I am shanhai'd into the kitchen. This happens a lot |
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| On what appears to be our final night Its trivia at the local. We bomb! |
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| Our starting Km's: 354236 |
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| And finally, for an early start, we are off, or about to be at 11:30, March 15th |
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| Of course, we don't just drive, first it's an Eco park |
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| Then we see signs for "Danger Falls" So it's another swim, then a sandwich |
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| Then a bit of R&R |
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| We've travelled to Armadale about 300Km and we start to work out how or if, everything goes together |
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| It's a long winding road up onto the plateau but our camp has a pool |
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| It's still bloody hot, at least 30C So this is really a welcome break for us |
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| A lot of winding hill roads, so I'm happy to have got here unscathed and unscathing Why yes, a GinnTonic would do nicely thanks |
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| We have the morning shade, so we just ablute and head off to breakfast somewhere in town |
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| We work out an easy routine Drive in a general westerly direct, work out where we will be around 5, and Richard somehow, finds a camp to stay for the night and reserves over the phone We decide that we will head to a hotel if it's going to get really wet |
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| This is Dubbo The pool may not look like much, but in 30+C we're not complaining |
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| Breakfast is always at "Best Breakfast" according to Google maps |
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| We have a handle of food The utensils and misc ingredients we have give us some basics |
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| Cobar. At least there are only a few travellers out in the bush for a vacation. That means everyone is up either with or even before dawn and are off |
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| We are finally getting into outback country Just a brown field with maybe a tree |
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| Cobar, deep outback now 355246 On our way to Broken Hill, in Wilconna, my phone shut down "Shutting down due to excess heat" It was 42C |
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| We typically do 300 - 400Km per day more for my comfort level than for any other reason |
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| Richard loves my honey mustard salad dressing so we have it whenever we find green things |
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| Broken Hill, as in BHB Properties Huge amounts of silver brought a lot of mining (and cockroaches) here |
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| It's unbelievably hot, like 42, 43 So we are here for a couple of days. until the heat subsides a bit Everyone hides in the pool |
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The temperature eventually resets to around 30 around sunset. I need to do maintenance on the tent |
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| Last night at Broken Hill The local pub does a fabulous Pork belly Definitely better than mine |
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| The missus and I actually camped pretty much in this spot, maybe 8 years ago I do tent maintenance, but only first thing in the morning |
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| "The Living Desert", just outside of Broken Hill It's also famous as the backdrop for Mel Gibsons Mad Max movies shot here |
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| Never saw A ONE Cockroaches? Billions of them. We had the fun experience of one (each) climbing up our legs as we were driving out of Broken Hill. Yes, UGH! |
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| Everyone has to go to there. Sort of an artsy fartsy kinda place. |
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| Being there early meant fewer flies It's also a cooler drive, for a while anyway |
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| Unfortunately, high fences and razor wire were liberally strewn around: Port Augusta |
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| Kimba, supposedly half way between Sydney & Perth, displaying local fauna (taxidermied I assume) |
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| Port Augusta. I remember the oysters from last time Still great Here, Standpipe Golf Motor Inn. Great Indian grub |
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| Richard is well known for his napping requirements Me, not so much This, about an hour out of Port Augusta |
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| Suggested servings |
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| Ceduna and beach camping Now this is vacationland Richard goes for a swim in the ocean, every day |
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| My breakfast was typically coffee and croissant Richards was full, like totally full |
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| Significant Outback from here on Eyre Highway to Perth |
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| What on earth is "Bulldust" you ask. A good question. We had no idea either It's a nightmare for anything except a 4 x 4. Extremely fine ground up dust covering deep holes in the road. Imagine a 50cm deep hole covered by water, but here, dust. You have no idea until the wheels sink into it |
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| I'm still not 100% Oz outback material, even though my beloved cruiser is Even this simple trek is fraught for me |
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| This, for maybe obvious reasons, is Mexican Hat bay |
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| We're heading out to Fowlers bay recreational area. There's NOTHING! out here |
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| Covid, Oz style |
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| It's remote (for me), windy, very dusty and I have zero idea as to why we are here |
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| We fire up the stove and have something basic |
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| Pretty desolate too. Not much nightlife out here |
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| It's very pretty here as the sun sets. It's quite cold |
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| It says 4 x 4, but we needed (IMHO) a 4 x 4 to get here but there was a Toyota Corolla coming out as we came in. That's definitely NOT a 4 x 4 |
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| Richards bivouac. He also goes for swims out here I can't do that without access to a fresh water shower At least the campsite does have one thing, yes, a long drop |
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| Don't be fooled! The outback isn't unforgiving, it just doesn't care, about you, your vehicle, anything. Everything is your problem |
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| The Nullarbor. My 4th time out here |
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| We have made it. My final desired destination in Oz: The Best of the Bight Cliff Top Camping. We are bout 150Kms from the start of the Nullarbor, about 70Kms from the Western Australia border We grab this totally uninterrupted view of such austere beauty, and it's all ours |
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| My original idea was to come here for a week and watch whales cavorting in the Bight |
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| Richards idea was to head to Darwin. Luckily the roads to the north were all flooded, otherwise, I would have dropped him off and headed down here |
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| BUT! Whale season is mid winter in local parlance, not now. Another month or two. That's May - October. Guess when my sailing season is |
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| 357225: Nearly 3000Kms |
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| So, I'm delighted to be here, have a GinnTonic and send pix of it to my mates back in winter up't'North |
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| This is "Free Camping" There's also absolutely nothing here Bring everything. It's an Australian institution. I think that most Ozzy's are just cheap. It's hardly luxurious out here, except for uninterrupted outback This is our destination. Tomorrow, we head back East to begin our return |
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| We head back, this time east and wait till we get here to do our various bodily function requirements This roadhouse is about one hundred Kms from the camping site |
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| I needed this for my boy scouts badge Nullarbor Roadhouse. Diesel incredibly expensive |
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| Freshly bowels and skin excavated and cleansed, we enjoy the fruits of years of the daily slog |
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| The humour of the desert |
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| Heading back for a night, again, in Ceduna Richard really enthused |
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| Richard has talked me into a real outback adventure the back road from Ceduna to Coober Pedy Here are salt pans. |
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| And it certainly turned into one The forecast is for flooding around here |
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| It's only a flat tire, but in the outback. Well, I'm always nervous out here One mistake can make a lot of difference, sometimes to your health, life? |
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| Luckily, Gary made sure the spare was serviceable (Good on ya mate!) And Richard did all the hard, dirty work. I managed and did photo ops |
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| And we make it through to "civilisation" Kingoonya Caravan park, not to be confused with Kingoonya Camp Ground which is actually just a dust patch |
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| Here you actually have a shower and a kitchen Total luxury all round We meet others who have trekked across really wild, sand duned areas to get here. I guess you grow up with it |
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Kingoonya,
We depart to more civil areas and tire repairs |
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| The sign said that the road was now closed |
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| The clouds stayed away until we arrived on the other side on the main highway |
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| 250 Kms later, we approach our days destination We pass by seemingly endless outback. I try to commune with the desolation, bearing in mind that this will be my last experience of endless emptyness |
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| You have heard of the gold rush? How about the Opal rush? That's Coober Pedy |
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| Once excavated, the mines were turned into living quarters, shops even |
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| We are hundreds, maybe thousands of Kms from any food distribution centre, yet it's the cheapest food in Australia |
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| It was brutal. The heat, dust survival... |
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| There is almost zero water here Later that night, it absolutely pissed down No doubt the storms we just missed on the outback track shortcut We would have hotelled it if we knew this was likely to happen, but this is the outback, it NEVER rains here |
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| In fact, it only rains here once a year Are we lucky or what? Richard up very early buying Opals |
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| And, for the true believers, underground churches, previously Opal mines |
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| Lots of them |
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| Russian (?) Orthodox was big here |
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| Heading back to Port Augusta The van is a wet disaster. Everything is drying out. |
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| Still shut. Guess that we just made it out in time |
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| This say's everything that you need to know about the outback |
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| Be brave, be fool hardy, but above all else be prepared |
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| Just before Woomera (a rocket/ defence testing area), Lake Hart No lake of course, actually endless salt (and more) pans |
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| Back to Port Augusta. Time for laundry |
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| Tonight, it's Indian at the Standpipe golf motel |
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| 358861 From Annies at 354236 About 4500Km |
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| We decide to head down the Yorke peninsula Here at Stansbury caravan park |
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| We have indulged in frozen oysters can you believe? They are surprisingly good It's a pretty dull area. We retreat immediately |
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| Considering the years of use and the recent downpour |
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| My tent has held up pretty well |
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| Clare Vale, a veritable Mecca for wine lovers, that's us Typically, we find a deserted camping area as we both need to get up a lot at night, so bushes, trees and lack of lighting is a good thing In case you are wondering, no occasionally we didn't make it Note bikes at rear |
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| It's a huge camping area and I'm informed that we have the last camping place |
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| We find a local bike shop and get a few days of local transit |
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| Richard does the BBQ |
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| And I do the greenery and sommelier |
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| Having bikes, I think I can do a major exercise routine Dry season in Southern Australia, so most things dead and dying |
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| We are on a roll. It's hilly all around here |
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| Well, as much of a roll as old, unfit fat cyclist can do in their fading years We stop at a few cellar doors |
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| We head out with great intentions This barkeep is a hoot, we have a blast with her |
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| This being a brewery at the end of a really hilly lane We end up totally pissed |
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| The hills were down on the way there Richard made it up, I didn't |
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| Complete with the brewery paraphernalia |
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| We leave Clare Vale and head to Barossa Valley Here a beer stop in Greenock |
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| And we walk around Tanunda town This being Bar Musque. Richard said this was the best wine during the entire trip |
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| Barossa Valley camp site Me and the wife camped here a long time back |
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| Richard is always hungry This with the wine samples |
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| It's getting late in the season There's an entertainer here at the local pub but it's not really the season for outside beers any more. I get all of my clothes out |
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| Suitably reinforced, we hire bikes at the local library/ tourist centre |
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Breakfast for Richard at the Four seasons of Nosh A really great place for coffee and croissant (mine) too |
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| Jacobs Creek vineyards. We have to take a number and wait |
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| So we indulge in pre viticulture, and also a game of daft cricket, but without a real ball |
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| Jacobs Creek vineyards. Quite a staple in my cellar |
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| We find the official, paved bike path A great relief after the non ike path roads |
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| We reach our furthest winery, Kellermeister There's a biking extravaganza billeted her for lunch |
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We head back, now totally and utterly plastered Hefre, on our totally pissed way back, avoiding all traffic and pot holes, the last pix of Richard in one piece |
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| Lots of samples later, we end up at Lou's I'm really glad Richard talked me into lunch here Slow cooked lamb shoulder I've tried to recreate it several times. No chance |
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| I have passed Jacobs Creek, and found that the real bike path continues. I negotiate the hills and dangerous negative cambers, Richard does not I'm waiting here when I hear the scream |
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| Richard bikes back, with unknown injuries |
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| Next day and we head out to Adelaide. He's got a ticket to Sydney, then home Here, fish and chips, Oz style Minimum 4.8 on Google reviews usually means excellent grub |
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| Richard retires to his tent, but later, heads to the local hospital I supply food and he stays in overnight |
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| I've found a great cottage just outside Adelaide great for the airport and a real bed |
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| For some, still totally unknown and strange reason, Richard needs to locate a grave of some ancient ne'er do well uncle about 15 times removed at an Adelaide graveyard |
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| But he's up for the benefits of such travels. Street food at the Adelaid market |
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| It's time to relax at our cottage, well, for me anyway |
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| It's very difficult getting Richard in and out of the van, but he's still up for a tour of the town This all kangaroo |
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| Richard as he departs at Adelaide airport April 5th. Just in time to meet his 30 day deadline Once back in Boston, he was diagnosed with 6 broken ribs, a lung clot and pneumonia, 3 nights in hospital and lots of drugs may deter drinking and cycling in future, maybe |
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| We wander around Adelaide, eventually, we have a milkshake and head back |
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| 359648 About 5500Km so far |
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| I have not seen much of Adelaide. I head into town for a few hours. It's a really fun place |
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| Tailem Bend, another sweet, typical NSW small town with a decent bakery as I head back |
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| Here at Peak Hill A sad day, and a sad farewell. The last night with the Old Gal as my trusted companion |
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| Heading back through the (wet) deserted areas of NSW, I say my final farewells |
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361528 About 7300Km, as Bilbo would say, there and back again |
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| I try to duplicate the fabulous lamb shoulder at Lou's as per their recipe No chance |
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| It was a hard, long, noisy and fume filled drive back. Lonely too without Richard Gary has been patiently waiting for the return of the ole Gal so he can test out his latest project |
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| It's not just chewing gum and duct tape, it's screamingly hot chewing gum and duct tape |
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| Well, his new project actually starts It gets very hot and I suddenly have Deja Vu about Gary's fix em up projects |
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| Glad to be out of it and, glad we didn't sink or explode |
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| Up to Nambucca Heads for some Ozzy machismo and tucker |
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| I give the van to Gary as I have no more need for it. A fitting end to my Oz touring, a picnic on the beach |
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| Exactly what she was built for Yes, this will be my last trip to Oz. This will be the old Gals retirement |
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| We start to say our goodbyes I'm off to NZ bright and VERY early next morning |
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| And that's it Time to cut the cord I've got what I suspect is Covid, and cough myself daft all night |
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