2022 April 6th - June 6th: France with attitude and a bike
Dateline: 2022 June 9th. Toronto, Ontario
Running away from the Canadian winter: escape from covid
My long nurtured dream, hatched in the depths of winter despair and relentlessly researched of the hiking route GR20 in Corsica
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| Well, here I am dear reader, 73 already and biking around Corsica just for the fun of it Some folks prefer sitting on a couch watching TV. That's fine with me as long as it's other people |
This to the anal point where I was deciding on 50 gram accessories or 75 gram accessories (space blanket), water purifying tabs, new ultra light tent and sleeping bag etc etc involved a trans GR20 hiking trip of Corsica was cut short, well, read on.....
I've also packed a full biking kit as I'm borrowing one of the wonderful bike at the Alexanders, so I have double paniers, rack for same, lights, pump, bell (no helmet) for a biking adventure down to Newts place in Sigean
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| Statutory shot of Canadian winter during one of my lesser depressing walks. March 14th |
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| April 14th, back at the Alexanders to be not in Canada |
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| Same suspects, slightly aging, slightly the worse for wear Always a glass of red to aid recovery |
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| Straight into the local France social maelstrom A local artist exhibiting in a cave |
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| We can sit outside and enjoy the local food (croissants) and coffee |
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| All French local wine are great |
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| I know it's not gong to be Sigean quality, but the bonus is, it's also not Toronto quality |
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| I'm soon setting myself fitness things to do Here biking |
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| Bikers throw down. His |
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| I kit myself up with my potential hiking gear and throw in about 5Kgs of dinner as a test hike around Laborie with Martin |
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| And His also |
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| 2Km and feeling like this is definitely possible |
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| But 10Km in and my knee is complaining |
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| I relinquish dinner from my backpack, and struggle with ideas of completing my proposed trans Corsica hike |
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| Peter embraces his prefered lifestyle |
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| Lots of local neighbours. Note fabulous views |
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| This appears to be my main task here, re organising the perpetually disorganised car port (again) |
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| Maybe Peters last bike ride We head out for a coffee at Castelnau |
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| The sun shines, and apart from limping everywhere After a few painkillers (yes! Me!) all's well (enough) with the world |
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Martins birthday bash Tim, Martin's son organises a fantastic prime rib BBQ |
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| More of the same usual suspects |
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| Maybe one of my failing attempts at not so fine dining |
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| Shucking oysters in about 20 degrees I send one to my sailing skipper |
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| I am positively encouraged to get the lawnmower out. OK. It's quite fun |
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| Still counts as cool down here |
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| We are into projects. The front oak door, probably about 150 years old and sorely in need of a refit |
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| Note casual attitude and full bags of paniers. On my way to Sigean. Newts place down south. I take the train |
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| After a few weeks of peer pressure, I'm on a bike, so I bike into Gaillac to catch the train Through the vineyards' of course Very poetic |
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| This is how you transport yourVelo in France. Note, you must reserve your spot |
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| Safe again. Traversing French railway stations (like Toulouse) involves a lot of steps which with a heavy bike and a gammy knee was zero fun. Other travellers (especially older farts) had an even worse experience. Local staff couldn't give a shit Glad all trains had washrooms. That was close several times! |
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| Much as I try, the Sigean Newt #1 sandwich is best created by an expert. ie, Newt |
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| I'm in my element here Poached salmon I'd say with a crisp white, probably a Picpoul de pinet I want for very little here |
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| I'm mobile on my Velo so I can take the slow route to Port La Nouvelle and check out the local flora |
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| To the lifestyle not born, but Chaddleworth certainly gave me the impetus to achieve, well just about everything |
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| The back of the Newts pied a terre The balcony of delight is 3rd down, centre |
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| Downtown Sigean. I'm showing this because the Newts have sold this delightful place, so I will not be here again |
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| Today, I'm off to Leucate. About 25Km away Hopefully, on quiet roads for an oyster feast Spring flowers are just a onus |
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A veritable shuck full of oyster options |
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Passing through town, quite safe for most town riding Main roads? Check your mirror often |
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| The French do great bike trails in towns and municipalities This along a beach |
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| The French way of life. Unbeatable |
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Next, Its off to Gruissan. Another hang out for the BiValve cognoscenti set (thats me) |
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| Time to send pix to my mates back in Toronto |
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| This could go on for a long, wonderful time without me getting bored |
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| It's not exactly bike path, more horse path, but a lot safer and almost deserted |
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| It's quite a hike on my bike, maybe 20+Km, and I can't quite remember where it is, so several hours later |
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| More really well thought out and functional bike paths |
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| Whats a guy got to do to enjoy his retirement around here? Gruisan. Fabulous Huitre |
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| On the local salt water lake heading back |
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| I choose the long and winding return track |
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| I head down a totally disused back path. Lots of sharp thorny objects. Ooops My puncture repair abilities, as taught to me by my dear old daddy, still work! |
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| I still have a slow flat. I try (unsuccessfully) to fix it permanently |
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| May 5th. My 73rd birthday How else to live it up? |
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Head to Port La Nouvelle for the market. Bike options are less enjoyable, but I score some home made Madeleines |
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| There, that was easy Another glass of wine sir? |
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| Just another day etc etc However! I understand that the proprietors are now looking for a buyer My glorious freeloading days here are numbered |
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| Crossing a different country |
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| Well, I don't always need to have a glass of wine |
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| I like these shots! |
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| In the true Segean tradition, I'm out in all weathers munching on my sandwich and half bottle of red |
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| Note strategically place glass of Picpoul |
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| Ah! yes, my seafood stew. Sometimes I excel myself Maybe not this time |
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| Another glorious riot of days end |
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| With the sun in frame, this must have been around 8AM. Breakfast |
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| As I work my way through Joyce's Ulysses, the world continues in it's celestial ambivalence Not reading, listening to the unabridged recorded version |
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| And back home with a new look |
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| A road less travelled around the Etang. Usually deserted |
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Just me and my phone Complete with unabridged Joyce as an audiobook. Perfect! |
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| Looks like another hike out to Leucat for lunch |
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| I'm sure anyone who's got this far will wonder why I bother Hey! There are worse things to do with your retired life |
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| It's still early in the season So really, just the locals |
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| Spring in southern France As Newt would say, what's not to like |
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| The "usual" riot of wild flora coloursa |
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| On my borrowed Velo |
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| About 12Km from Sigean |
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Was it all worth it? you ask Does the Pope shit in the woods? I retort |
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| Up, over the hill and down into Leucat |
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| Same way back |
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| But. My Idyl is about to be curtailed |
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| Somehow, I accept my new role as previous caretake in my stride |
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| The landlord has arrived and taken over all culinary aspects |
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| Those were the days my friend...... |
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| There's quite a smattering of expats, many of them, Ahem.... "Artists" It's ok, they provide great food and mostly acceptable wines |
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The "Artists" make things to hang on walls The guests hang around for delicious food and get drunk Everyone goes home with great feelings of accomplishment |
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| Now Peter drives, and I bike and gather shopping essentials on the return |
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| Cordon Blue Newt is now in residence |
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| With Newt here, I abandon my Velo, and we head to our favourite lunch sites, probably for the last time |
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| Gruisan for Langoustine & Huitre Bi valves. Probably one of the most delightful meals I've ever had in France |
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| And of course, Fresh Moule from Gruisan for dinner. Au Revoir mon ami |
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| Aware that I have to say my farewells to Sigean (yes, this is not only the end of freeloading here, but the end of a fantastic era), Newt takes me and bike etc to Narbonne. Farewell Old Friend! |
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| And I head to Marseilles for the overnight Corsica ferry |
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| Not the best sleep. I was more concerned about security But we arrive just after dawn in Ajaccio. Napoleons Birthplace |
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| On board the ferry, I celebrate with a perfect beer. Then crash in the seats |
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| I'm all kitted out, but it's far to early to check into my hotel The caffe's are just opening up. Time for a revitalising coffee |
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| It's a fantastic day to be alive out on the road to my hotel |
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| I arrive about 10AM and my room is ready. I dump my gear and head off to discover the town |
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| Back into town |
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| And around the bay |
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| I grab a litre of fresh milk and live off of bits The evening is a crap shoot of poor google information about restaurants. This area was supposed to be a restaurant way past my hotel, but was really only a bar and an ice cream shop |
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| An early start. Dawn I have a bus to catch (I hope), in an hour |
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| I am catching a bus because it's too much work, and as I very quickly discover, really, like bloody dangerous, to bike in the hills here Luckily, no one else is biking as the bus driver only takes one or two bikes ber trip |
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| Propriano, about a 2 hour bus ride. REALLY glad I didn't bike here. Real hills and zero space for anything except trucks |
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| What a place. I always put "2" for how many people Consequentially, the manager gave me a really lovely place |
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| The less than casual observer may note in the distance, the actual hiking route GR20 on the horizon |
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| Shopping in Corsica, I have discovered, is difficult The Australian election kicks out FuckWith ScoMo. I celebrate |
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| Next, another bus ride to Ponto Vechio I'm here for a few days, so I'm checking out my biking stamina around the back roads |
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| I check into my highly rated accommodation It's only so - so, with no cooking facilities so I'm almost dying by the time I get into town for a big beer |
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| Ooooops! Too much Corsican Salami |
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| Two days later On the road again Pure Willie Nelson |
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| I'm up, literally before the sun and out of the door Maybe 30Km before 10AM to Sari-Solenzara The roads are fine up to about 9AM. Glad I pre booked |
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| House Agneli. Near pretty much nowhere, but cheap |
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| Just an overnighter here, then, with the roads far too busy and dangerous (after 10AM), I bus to Bastia |
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| Off in Bastia and simply put all my bits together and head out for my 20+ Km ride up the Cap du Corse |
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| I am really loving this. Hills and some traffic, but what a delight |
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| There's a few bakeries. I'm a sweaty mess but get water as I need it |
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| I marvel at myself (As you are aware gentle reader) not a difficult thing for me |
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| The view from my isolated hotel in a village with no name I arrive too early, so just hang out for a while |
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| The hotels reviews for their food was pretty good, but it's all about Pizza etc fast food. I park the bike and walk to a local restaurant |
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| It's Saturday. Everyone is out The BBQ goes on about 7PM I wait. I get grub. It's pretty good |
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| Sunday and I'm heading as far north as I can Unfortunately, there's a Porsche rally all around the Cap |
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| Occasionally noisy, but by and large, safe drivers |
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| Those hikers amongst my ever diminishing readers, will note more profile of GR20 in the background |
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| As it's Sunday, the French all go out for superb food at the best restaurants. I, sweaty and gross, have no chance of getting in anywhere. I buy baked stuff. Much Cheaper |
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| And then back to the HotelStead |
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| Well, here I am, 73 already and biking around Corsica just for the fun Some folks prefer sitting on a couch watching TV. That's fine with me as long as it's other people |
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| It's a glorious 13Km ride from my hotel to pretty much the end of the road. Google shows nothing But there's a small town there and a bloody Porsche rally all weekend with a full pits set up there |
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| Without my saddlebags, I'm a lot lighter |
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| Ancient watchtower as mentioned by Bob Dylan Jimi Hendrix et al |
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| I've done most of the island. Time to head back, then home |
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| Next morning, it's an easy, and totally glorious 24 Km ride back to Bastia |
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| I check into my hotel in Bastia. Amazing, the reception speak English. Very unusual I deposit my bike in the lock up, showered, head out into town. I choose my bakery, buy my baked goods and head to the best coffee shop. in the square. I watch the ferries come and go Finding a place to piss in French towns is always a break neck problem |
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Ancient Bastia's defensive wall |
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| There's a lot of defensive structures here Napoleon needed them I guess |
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| Finally, in Bastia, a decent meal |
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| And I'm on board, heading back, via Marseilles to Gaillac |
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| Marseille, early morning Sleeping on board was not very effective I'm knackered It's an easy bike ride from the docks to the station. but I get totally lost |
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| A friendly bike rack that I need to shoehorn my bike into |
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| Eventually, after a few missed connections. Heading back through the local vineyards |
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| Safe, sound and maybe a bit fitter even? A lot smellier definately |
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| I reflect that I will probably never bike around Corsica again Oh well, most people haven't done it the first time |
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| Ugh! Indeed Newt gave me full approval to toss this old rucksack which served me exceptionally well |
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| A small matter of a laundry machine? |
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| Wasn't that such a pile of fun! |
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| Looks familiar? What great legs you have grandad! |
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Hmmmmm. Thanks, but I'm washing my hair tonight |
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| The big picture, from the recently Jim mowed, paddock |
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| I have booked my return to YYZ. No wonder they look happy |
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| Alex finds inspiration in a grain of sand Or less! |
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| The summer accoutrement are wrestled from there recently allotted storage spaces There is sun. There is Shade god is in Her heaven, and all's well with the world again |
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| All under the watchful eye of management, Quality Control and engagements |
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| Alex and I celebrate our mutually conceptualised and outrageously over engineered Oak Door improvements |
I bid a very fond Adieu, until we next meet
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| And I'm back. Now read on in next blog. If you dare |
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