Dateline: November 2017, Ooty, Tamil Nadu, India.
India - The Southern Regions Beckon us
Hi again, intrepid, winter bound vicarious followers
Today, we are sitting up an ex colonial hillside in a genteelly declining cottage in a Hill Station, in Ooty, Tamil Nadu.
Back in the days of the Raj, Hill Stations were very popular with the Memsahibs. Back in those glorious colonial days when the heat on the plains became far too oppressive for the colonials, those that could, did and in many instances, a colonial outpost was set up in these milder climes.
This one most definitely became a centre for tea.
We have scooped a 19th century genteel, colonial cottage.
We just love it here, and are quite happy to just hang out, and to read books, or, say finish my blog to date for you, our gentle readers with the latest
India - The Southern Regions Beckon us
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| A slice of a long gone age |
Today, we are sitting up an ex colonial hillside in a genteelly declining cottage in a Hill Station, in Ooty, Tamil Nadu.
Back in the days of the Raj, Hill Stations were very popular with the Memsahibs. Back in those glorious colonial days when the heat on the plains became far too oppressive for the colonials, those that could, did and in many instances, a colonial outpost was set up in these milder climes.
This one most definitely became a centre for tea.
We have scooped a 19th century genteel, colonial cottage.
We just love it here, and are quite happy to just hang out, and to read books, or, say finish my blog to date for you, our gentle readers with the latest
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| We we looping around Delhi for landing for about an hour |
We had a long flight from Tokyo, the only thing that made 10+ hours bearable, was that we were in a first class pod.... I know I've mentioned that before, but 10+ hours of it... Wonderful
As the flight was leaving on time, I had reserved both a flight from Delhi to
As the flight was leaving on time, I had reserved both a flight from Delhi to
Mumbai, and a hotel there. Mostly it worked, but we needed an extra hour on the tarmac in Delhi (in economy this time - grotesque!), plus a cock up with the hotel booking that luckily I was able to fix because Kayla's friend Kanishka had deposited some much needed data into my Indian phone account - thanks Kanishka.
Here's the mapping scoop: Link to traveling on this blog
The first night was pretty depressing, the place we ended up in was very close to the airport, on the flight path as it happened, and terrible, but it had a bed, a/c and a bog (we had stolen a bog roll in Tokyo, so we were prepared).
We were too knackered to care. Next morning, I wander around the locale looking for ATM's, I was too tired to bother last night and we survived on my spare Yen from Japan.
It's back to India, yes, I guess I've missed it.
I don't notice any feelings of animosity, not that that ever crept into our previous trip here, but wandering around, here, I feel like I'm part of the landscape. Unlike Delhi and the North in general, I'm just another walker here, totally belonging - maybe it is right about the South being more gentle - we'll find out.
It's all very reminiscent of the North regarding the poverty, the dust, but not so much out and out filth as say in Jaipur or Delhi.
After the perceived horrors of this hotel, we go up market to a 5 star hotel in central Mumbai. Sure it costs. You got a problem with that?
It's one hell of a way from the airport - about 40 minutes, and the Ola cab fee was R500, including tip. We're certainly back in affordable land.
I'll use Rupees for any costs from here on, about R50 = CAD$1
We are within 200 metres of the central railway station and 100 metres of the sea wall.
Mumbai is a peninsula, that means that it can only grow up, not out. Real estate prices here are about the same as in New York.
We head off for seafood at Patraps: they bring the fish around for
your inspection, then whisk it to the kitchen for processing, a kind of Greek version of wandering around the kitchen to inspect your dinner.
I deposit the missus back in the hotel, she wants to try the "Fitness Room" Hah! and wander the city on my own through the heat of the day.
I'm astounded at how clean the place is
Everywhere I go, it's clean. Even the cows soggy (loose stools to you gentle readers) crap is immediately brushed up with a dustpan and put into a plastic shopping bag.
Fine with me!
Having been to India and utylised the train system, I know how easy it is to get train tickets. Just go to the reservation desk, fill in a form and give the guy some money. We're booked for Goa, or thereabouts (Madguon actually) for the next day, 22:10 departure. Easy. About R2000 for 2 of us - 550Kms
That night, having successfully navigated Mumbai earlier, plus successfully getting some cash, I set out on an adventure. I go for a long wander as the sun sets. My phone is almost out of battery, so I leave it on charge (big mistake) and travel unimpeded by technology. It's an absolutely perfect night for a walk around.
I take a very long route around, and within an hour, I'm stone cold lost. Since I acquired my wobbles, aka balance impedimenta predicament, I have zero sense of direction (see notes re Shinjuku station previous blog), so without my Google maps, I am in a word, fucked.
I wander around, and around actually a huge circular garden. Recognising some relevant
landmark, I head towards it and pass many street people settling in for
the night, It's still warm enough that they only have a blanket to sleep
on. The amazing thing about these street people is that they are all
watching soaps on their cell phones. Now, this is certainly an
interesting topic for those folks researching poverty..... Hmmm
Still lost, I eventually apply logic, that I can still manage, and notice that luckily, the moon has just risen, I work out that it too rises in the east, that the sea is to the west, the hotel is near the sea, so walk with my back to the moon.
It works, and within half an hour, I'm back safe at the hotel without breaking down and catching a tuk.
The first night was pretty depressing, the place we ended up in was very close to the airport, on the flight path as it happened, and terrible, but it had a bed, a/c and a bog (we had stolen a bog roll in Tokyo, so we were prepared).
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| Back to Paneer Masala - the real stuff. Mumbai Style |
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| Tandoori shrimp - too hot for the missus |
It's back to India, yes, I guess I've missed it.
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| All too familiar, in a good way |
I don't notice any feelings of animosity, not that that ever crept into our previous trip here, but wandering around, here, I feel like I'm part of the landscape. Unlike Delhi and the North in general, I'm just another walker here, totally belonging - maybe it is right about the South being more gentle - we'll find out.
It's all very reminiscent of the North regarding the poverty, the dust, but not so much out and out filth as say in Jaipur or Delhi.
After the perceived horrors of this hotel, we go up market to a 5 star hotel in central Mumbai. Sure it costs. You got a problem with that?
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| Mumbai waterfront - dull but unbelievably incredibly clean |
I'll use Rupees for any costs from here on, about R50 = CAD$1
We are within 200 metres of the central railway station and 100 metres of the sea wall.
Mumbai is a peninsula, that means that it can only grow up, not out. Real estate prices here are about the same as in New York.
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| A feast, hot n spicy, just how I like my women |
We
forget to ask for less spicy, so I end up with 10 Tandoori shrimp, plus
a plateful of curried kingfish - delicious all round, but R2000 so, definitely an up market place.
Coming back, we look for ATM's, but about 10 say bugger off, and eventually, after various calls to various banks (CIBC had blocked my card when we were in Japan, but had decided not to tell me!) we found the correct combination of ATM and card. Still only $200 per access. Luckily, using my VISA credit card, and an ATM that doesn't charge, withdrawing money can be free of additional fees |
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus |
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| Clean, regulated and organised - Mumbai |
I'm astounded at how clean the place is
Everywhere I go, it's clean. Even the cows soggy (loose stools to you gentle readers) crap is immediately brushed up with a dustpan and put into a plastic shopping bag.
Fine with me!
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| A typical street in Mumbai, always lots of action |
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| My personal street coconut chef - always a favourite |
That night, having successfully navigated Mumbai earlier, plus successfully getting some cash, I set out on an adventure. I go for a long wander as the sun sets. My phone is almost out of battery, so I leave it on charge (big mistake) and travel unimpeded by technology. It's an absolutely perfect night for a walk around.
I take a very long route around, and within an hour, I'm stone cold lost. Since I acquired my wobbles, aka balance impedimenta predicament, I have zero sense of direction (see notes re Shinjuku station previous blog), so without my Google maps, I am in a word, fucked.
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| View from our Airbnb apartment. It's all run down and full of Russians |
It works, and within half an hour, I'm back safe at the hotel without breaking down and catching a tuk.
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| There's a down market pool to accompany the down market area, cafe, accommodation etc etc |
Our last day - the train leaves at 22:10, so we stay in the hotel until late, doing my blog and generally waiting for time to pass. I book an Airbnb, basically, just dragged out of the hat for tomorrow night, and we're all set.
I vary between 3 major booking processes, short stay booking.com,or, certainly in Asia, Agoda, for 3 or more days, I tend to use Airbnb unless there's nothing I like.
Agoda is best as they always charge your credit card, booking.com varies, and sometimes you need lots of cash before you can get into your room.
We have a 2 A/C (2 people per wall, upper and lower beds both sides of a cabin) on the train. It's old hat to us, but while we are waiting for the train to arrive, the missus asks wouldn't it be easier to fly, and checking the flight schedule and prices, yes, it would have been.
Malesh!
Our host picks us up, and by 10:00AM, we are settled into a fairly basic but comfortable apartment and off to the beach.
It's beautiful, and apart from about 100 semi baked Russians spread over about 3 kilometers, and a few "shacks", its deserted.
The cold coffees and paneer are ordered, we have our books, and settle down for the day.
Surprisingly, it's really burning levels of sun here. The Russians are all out there lapping it up. some are really pale, straight from the frozen wastes I'd guess.
Some actually have blisters over their body, and are
still in the direct sun and sloshing in the sea.......
Not my problem but we do our bit to aleviate global warming by sucking up some UV's ourselves
I vary between 3 major booking processes, short stay booking.com,or, certainly in Asia, Agoda, for 3 or more days, I tend to use Airbnb unless there's nothing I like.
Agoda is best as they always charge your credit card, booking.com varies, and sometimes you need lots of cash before you can get into your room.
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| Access to Varca beach and shack |
We have a 2 A/C (2 people per wall, upper and lower beds both sides of a cabin) on the train. It's old hat to us, but while we are waiting for the train to arrive, the missus asks wouldn't it be easier to fly, and checking the flight schedule and prices, yes, it would have been.
Malesh!
Our host picks us up, and by 10:00AM, we are settled into a fairly basic but comfortable apartment and off to the beach.
It's beautiful, and apart from about 100 semi baked Russians spread over about 3 kilometers, and a few "shacks", its deserted.
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| Varca Beach - mostly deserted and very hot |
The cold coffees and paneer are ordered, we have our books, and settle down for the day.
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| Even under the shade, you still get a burn |
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| The beach cafe's are pretty functional That means you can get drinks and be in the shade |
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| Paragliding with beach sunset |
Some actually have blisters over their body, and are
still in the direct sun and sloshing in the sea.......
Not my problem but we do our bit to aleviate global warming by sucking up some UV's ourselves
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| It's quite deserted - I even thought the shack was closed, but no one was there |
We extend our stay for a forth night, its not a fantastic place, but it's a decent enough hangout, and for Goa, relatively cheap - none of this 5 star luxury everywhere we go, time to rough it a bit!.
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| You don't want to get an ugly one |
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| Bring your Roubles and Google Translate |
We also need to pay R100 for the rusty sun loungers. We don't.
There's a few tiny shops just outside the complex that have a few bits, but usually we just eat at the pool or the shacks on the beach. These are semi permanent buildings that come and go with the tourist trade. Like the restaurant owner who made us the most fantastic grilled silverfish, they are only here half the year, this being the run up to the busiest season of Christmas/ New Year.
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| Best meal of the trip so far |
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| Roughing it on the local air conditioned bus |
There's no doubt about it, we are no longer intrepid explorers, we are just plain tourists. It's a difficult concept for me just lying around in the sun, pool and having grub and drinks. Repeat.
However, I understand that this is what most people look for when they go somewhere hot to vacate themselves. That and shopping. Lots of shopping, mostly for total crap
However, I understand that this is what most people look for when they go somewhere hot to vacate themselves. That and shopping. Lots of shopping, mostly for total crap
So, I'd make a wild guess that most of you would be familiar with this mode of being somewhere else for "fun"
Not for me this mindless stuff, but I guess this is it until Kayla arrives. I'll just have to slum it now that I've finished all my Economists and read a book or two. How do tourists cope on such a mundane regimen?
We plan to go to North Goa and experience the real tourist spots.
I spend some time finding a places that can rent us bicycles as that's a great way to get around, and book the first one that says they can organise it.
It's about 35Km to northern Goa beaches. We have another Airbnb.
There's a bus ride for 30K's then we splurge on a taxi to the hotel as it turns out, which is also a really nice place, also just to "chill" and "hangout" as we aging travellers like to say
Candolim: It turns out to be in the centre of one of many beaches, Calangute and a few minutes from yet more sun and cancer drenched Russians on a nearby beach
Here though, instead of 3 shacks and 80 Russians in 5 kilometres, there's 50 shacks and 2000 Russians in 1 kilometre
It's strange looking back on these travels, I haven't really got much detail of many things here in India. We were talking about it, and we think we are now just part of the environment, and don't really see anything much as being commentable.
Maybe we've gone native.
One thing I do notice again and again is that people are really friendly, and are happy to talk to you without ulterior motive, or requests for endless selfies. Maybe it's the tourist town gig.
Also, I am not ripped off, everyone seems very honest in all my dealings
True to its word, the bike guy is summoned and we hire two really good road bikes for the next day. The guy has just started his business, and somehow brings two bikes with him on his scooter.
Armed with only a litre of water each, we set out on the wrong side of the road, facing unknown, and untold dangers.
It's fantastic, even in 30+ temperatures it's great to be out biking again. we head to a "Modern Art" museum, its actually quite good
It's up a steep hill, so we actually walk a lot of it. Bikes or no bikes
Christian items are everywhere, crosses, churches, shrines. There is still an obvious attraction to this version of God around here.
I convince the missus that we really need a longer bike ride, and after another 3 hours around some very pretty and deserted areas like Reis Magos, get back and into the pool.
We only booked one day, so as the missus is bent on the pool, I head off to Aguada Fort on the headland overlooking the estuary and a lot of Goa.
It's difficult for a Brit to believe, but the Portuguese had built a large city and captured a huge area of land before the Brits (Dutch etc) even knew the place existed
The fort, built in 1612 to protect against Dutch warships is still both huge and pretty impressive.
A short rocky track and the trail ends at the western cliffs.
I head back in the dark, avoiding most potholes, cows and vehicles, who likewise avoid me
Its time for significant edibles and head out into the streets.
Again, the street signs are in English and Russian, with a few scripts, not really Hindi, I'm not sure what they are.
The main drag is very reminiscent of Pokhara in Nepal, inasmuch as everything a tourist "could" want here, well, maybe not everything....., but steak and kidney and fish and chips with mushy peas are sadly, in abundance.
Over the past few days, I've tried all the available beers, most are even worse than Bud Light, also available here. Again, Goan food is the norm, lots of fish, but also chicken, beef etc. Vegetarian is around, but not particularly prevalent. The local speciality is a "Sizzler": something in a kind of stew on a REALLY! HOT! metal plate, it's really good
Some folks we met told us that we must go to old Goa, a lot of UNESCO stuff here. Quite right. Really ancient churches, convent, churches and, oh, churches to various saints and saviours. Enough already
The place reminds me a bit of Mozambique where the Portuguese also had a massive colony. There too were villas, churches and religious paraphernalia.
The enemy is the sea. The salt destroys the bricks, the mortar, the metal, the wood, everything is eaten away in the heat.
Locally in Goa, at least there is obviously a practicing congregation. The locals are very proud of their cultural sites, and there is a lot of maintenance (fairly cruse I must admit) going on.
However, the whole God squad and the carvings and plaster casts of various blessed mothers and martyred saints is just so over the top for me that I quickly loose interest in the religious sides. The ancient stuff, I'm amazed it's still standing.
Not for me this mindless stuff, but I guess this is it until Kayla arrives. I'll just have to slum it now that I've finished all my Economists and read a book or two. How do tourists cope on such a mundane regimen?
We plan to go to North Goa and experience the real tourist spots.
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| Pool and book. Repeat |
It's about 35Km to northern Goa beaches. We have another Airbnb.
There's a bus ride for 30K's then we splurge on a taxi to the hotel as it turns out, which is also a really nice place, also just to "chill" and "hangout" as we aging travellers like to say
Candolim: It turns out to be in the centre of one of many beaches, Calangute and a few minutes from yet more sun and cancer drenched Russians on a nearby beach
Here though, instead of 3 shacks and 80 Russians in 5 kilometres, there's 50 shacks and 2000 Russians in 1 kilometre
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| I guess this is where the action is. Certainly the cold coffees are great |
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| We are already missing Northern Indian cuisine - better paneer masala |
Maybe we've gone native.
One thing I do notice again and again is that people are really friendly, and are happy to talk to you without ulterior motive, or requests for endless selfies. Maybe it's the tourist town gig.
Also, I am not ripped off, everyone seems very honest in all my dealings
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| I thought the place was cleaner. Nope, it's just off the main tracks |
True to its word, the bike guy is summoned and we hire two really good road bikes for the next day. The guy has just started his business, and somehow brings two bikes with him on his scooter.
Armed with only a litre of water each, we set out on the wrong side of the road, facing unknown, and untold dangers.
It's fantastic, even in 30+ temperatures it's great to be out biking again. we head to a "Modern Art" museum, its actually quite good
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| Goan Art, To Go? |
Christian items are everywhere, crosses, churches, shrines. There is still an obvious attraction to this version of God around here.
I convince the missus that we really need a longer bike ride, and after another 3 hours around some very pretty and deserted areas like Reis Magos, get back and into the pool.
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| We hire bikes and do a round the area trek Very dangerous as it turns out |
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| Aguada Fort Man with ancient lighthouse Well back in ancient history |
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| But as ever, I achieved exactly what I wanted to do |
The fort, built in 1612 to protect against Dutch warships is still both huge and pretty impressive.
A short rocky track and the trail ends at the western cliffs.
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| A fish "sizzler" - a Goan speciality apparently Don't bother |
Its time for significant edibles and head out into the streets.
Again, the street signs are in English and Russian, with a few scripts, not really Hindi, I'm not sure what they are.
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| Tourist modeling ancient churches in old Goa |
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| So, it's old and still standing |
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| Fat tourist surveys the fruits of non Brit Colonisations |
Some folks we met told us that we must go to old Goa, a lot of UNESCO stuff here. Quite right. Really ancient churches, convent, churches and, oh, churches to various saints and saviours. Enough already
The place reminds me a bit of Mozambique where the Portuguese also had a massive colony. There too were villas, churches and religious paraphernalia.
The enemy is the sea. The salt destroys the bricks, the mortar, the metal, the wood, everything is eaten away in the heat.
Locally in Goa, at least there is obviously a practicing congregation. The locals are very proud of their cultural sites, and there is a lot of maintenance (fairly cruse I must admit) going on.
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| Somewhere, South Western Indian train station |
A full gallery of the portraits of the Goa Governors does not hold my attention, but the model of the original Goan town built here by the Portuguese in the early 16th century shows how huge it was. All this in the early 1500, before most of Europe knew that Asia existed except by camel.
OK, finally, I'm impressed.
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| At least we got to where we wanted |
We arrive in Marguon with plenty of time after a few local buses, but am totally stymied because, as I find out, once the train is "charted" ie, written in stone, no one can give you a ticket, except for the lowest level, ie, regular non a/c travel. These are not, as was in this case, always attached to the train
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| High Fashioned Hijabs and Burqas anyone? |
As trains can sometimes travel for days, this one was a three day trip, so it had been charted, one hour before leaving, ie, 2 days ago.....
I do try, and try and try and try, at various counters, and various clerks, but all to no avail. So, eventually, for the fee of R160, we travel 350Kms in some form of lesser salubrosity on a passenger train and arrive 3 hours later than the express.
There's not much here in Mangalore, but we find a Cafe Coffee Day for a decent coffee and we can live with whatever the day offers.
Still some Christian churches, and lots of Muslims in suitable attire, there's even a designer Burka store in the upmarket building. The wife demurs my offer
Again, tickets for our next trips: as there's not much happening till we meet Kayla in Kochi, I've decided to get to Ooty, a hill station, a long, and multi transportation trip from here. A ticket to there, a ticket from there to where we meet Kayla - Cochin in 5 days time are booked
Leaving the missus to shop in the upmarket stores, I try with my typical walkabout. This time with a relatively working phone and map.
A Hindu shrine with a lot of Ram's and Genesh's and miscellaneous deities, all with people praying and offering cash to absolve something or other. Cynic? Moi?
I take a long walk around the town. It's definitely cleaner than Delhi, but only by degrees. The rivers are still running sludge, but
less and not quite as overpowering.
Plastic bags and generally, the Indian Problem is still very evident.
Down at the harbour, there fishing boats as far as you can see. God knows what their catch is like
Google has identified a floating restaurant for seafood down on the harbour. I find it, eventually, a "restaurant" on an old boat, not even a cafe really: its a bit rotten and the clientele is definitely not heading to the opera after eating here. It's fun in a down market kind of way . Everything has seen
better days, but they do passable fish, that and the local version of
salad is all that's on the menu.
I ask to see the selection, and nearly put my foot through the kitchen floor taking this pix. It's also extremely slippery. This and lots of frying fat.... You get the idea.
Surprisingly, next day we have zero after effects
I do try, and try and try and try, at various counters, and various clerks, but all to no avail. So, eventually, for the fee of R160, we travel 350Kms in some form of lesser salubrosity on a passenger train and arrive 3 hours later than the express.
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| Southern cooking - Dosa's A great meal, always |
Still some Christian churches, and lots of Muslims in suitable attire, there's even a designer Burka store in the upmarket building. The wife demurs my offer
Again, tickets for our next trips: as there's not much happening till we meet Kayla in Kochi, I've decided to get to Ooty, a hill station, a long, and multi transportation trip from here. A ticket to there, a ticket from there to where we meet Kayla - Cochin in 5 days time are booked
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| Mangalore Central Hindu Shrine |
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| The Kitchen and suicide floor It was literally full of rusty holes God know about the rats |
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| Maybe 100 or more boats |
Plastic bags and generally, the Indian Problem is still very evident.
Down at the harbour, there fishing boats as far as you can see. God knows what their catch is like
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| Atmospheric? Definitely but only if you can get down the stairs |
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| The local, aka "Government" bus to Ooty |
I ask to see the selection, and nearly put my foot through the kitchen floor taking this pix. It's also extremely slippery. This and lots of frying fat.... You get the idea.
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| Traveling like the natives to Ooty, guilt free Everyone very friendly. Slowly, it gets cooler |
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| Nice guys: He's a BJP party bigwig |
Coimbatore by train, this time, leaping from seat to seat as we do not have confirmed seats in the A/C car. But the conductors are very good, and this way we get to meet a lot more people. Invariable friendly and hospitable, and, certainly in this carriage, at least decent English speakers.
A night in Coimbatore, and I go for a search around. Amazingly, the people are speaking and exchanges are in English. I assume it's because of the different languages in India. I stop at a fish fry (R30 for a big lump) and everyone is talking English. Finally the fruits of Colonisation come forth
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| Stained glass in an old British Victorian church Back when men were white |
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| Have you ever seen such a dreadful church design? St Stephens Church. It's closed |
A night in Coimbatore, and I go for a search around. Amazingly, the people are speaking and exchanges are in English. I assume it's because of the different languages in India. I stop at a fish fry (R30 for a big lump) and everyone is talking English. Finally the fruits of Colonisation come forth
A local bus to Ooty. Again, I'm staggered at the price. R58 for two tickets on a four hour trip.
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| The town must have been quite the place during the Raj..... Now? Not so much |
And added bonus, no one died
We arrive in Ooty and find we have booked this incredible colonial cottage overlooking the entire valley below us, and it's so incredibly beautiful and laid back, 60's style. (That's 1860's)
It's right up our street, except G'nT's, or any other booze is banned. Nothing is ever perfect I guess.
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| The "Italian Gardens" - very relaxing |
Next day, we do the sights, the ,local St Stevens church, C1830, and the Botanical gardens. It's about the main tourist attraction and it's just enough for us.
Otherwise, dear reader, this, as you may have read, is the final result of 3 days in Ooty. What a deal!
And so, our final, never again to witness Ooty sunset passes into memory.
Tomorrow, we are up early for the bus back for the train and then, hopefully, to meet Kayla at the airport.
We only have 3 weeks left of our southern Indian tour. Got to make every day count from here on folks.
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| Officially a "HomeStay" in Ooty A marvellous delight with fantastic paneer from the lady of the house. Highly recommended |
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| Breakfast on the terrace, overlooking the tea hills |
Give me Rajastan anyday, but we do need to investigate and report back to our Gentle Readers.
More to come
Ooty, Tamil Nadu, November 21st, 2017
Ooty, Tamil Nadu, November 21st, 2017
From your correspondent