Dateline: April 17th 2017, Varanasi, India
The Trip from (AND To) Hell - Pokhara to Varanasi
14th - 17th April, Our Route
Laundry - 10Kgs of it, I find I fit into my size too small shorts now, we indulge in lots of beer and Mo Mo's.
There's no rush, but we came, we saw, we hiked, we achieved and didn't die, or even have much in the way of long term physical problems (try that all you 67 year olds out there)
Eventually, we make the break back to India. Kayla is not looking forward to going back with all the misogyny and sexism around.
A bus is booked for the 16th.
We are up early and have to wake up the staff to get the place open and the kitchen functioning, but it all works eventually:
The best part of the trip:
The bus leaves at 7:30, supposedly a "Tourist" bus. OK, maybe a long time ago, but now its a shit box.
Immediately on the road, the fact that there are no shock absorbers, apart from what you are sitting on, becomes obvious
Admittedly, the road is just appalling, but it's really non stop gut wrenching. Luckily, the gut doing the conductor shtick carries plastic bags which came in handy for the kid behind us when he started throwing up
This was the worst part of the trip
After about 2 hours of this, the driver pulls over , almost anywhere, except there's lots of bushes. Yep, ladies to the back, guys to the front of the bus. It becomes pretty obvious that this is a regular relief stop
I t seems that the road south is in fact being built, and traffic will be stopped from 11:00AM.
It's absolute chaos, traffic in both directions, not just crawling, but also stopped, maybe for 20 minutes at a time. As it's a building site, there's dust everywhere. The AC is in fact a fan, and the temperature rises well into the 30's in the bus
This went on for hours
This was the worst part of the trip, except for all the rest of the trip
Eventually, we stop for lunch, and the bus trip starts to resemble a real bus trip
As we get closer to the border, we find out the bus doesn't actually go to the border, so we're put down and have to get a local bus, I think there were about 30 of us in a bus for about 10, to be honest, this was the not worst part of the trip, that's later
The border was, yep, total chaos, and it got worse once back in India.
The border process had pretty much no structure, coming into India, every bag, suitcase and backpack were thoroughly searched as busloads of locals, and truckloads of produce just drive through. We have to ask 3 or 4 folks, like pharmacists, where we check in for immigration. Eventually we find a little shack about half a kilometer down the road and get checked in.
Being cheap, I don't accept the first "tourist" taxi offered, or the second, third etc, but find some guy who will act as a taxi driver to take us to Garakpur, about 90 Kms away, where we hope we can get a train to Varanasi. We agree on a price, get in his car and find we are sharing this little mini vehicle with 4 others. No idea how we all got in, let alone survived.
This was the worst part of the trip.
Well, Ilge said it was the worst car ride she's ever been in.
The reasons given by her being, in no particular order:
the constant loud music played by the driver
his foot was constantly on the brake
he was CONSTANLY honking the horn, and I mean always, it never actually stopped
and of course the general cramped seting arangement
Kayla and I thought he did a pretty good job all things considering how many cows, trucks without lights, motor bikes, Tuks and buses were on the road, going both ways on both sides of the road, of course, in total darkness. PLUS (spoiler Alert!!!!), we lived
The local farmers were burning their fields, so as it got darker, the smoke tended to hide said cows, trucks etc, and the fires gave an erie atmosphere to the ride.
Actually, the driver never went much above 80 Km/ hour, but that's a lot of dead cow if you just hit one.
For one and a half hours, we have a super cramped white knuckle ride, just like so many during our backpacking days. But we're not backpacking any more.......
Arriving alive, we all agree we will never do this again.
This was the worst part of the trip
Garakpur: apparently it has the longest platform in the world, 1.34 Kms.
The train we are after is totally sold out, and the next one with space leaves at 5:30. I am so tired, and wobbly by this time that I literally cannot think (see previous post). Local hotels are full, farther away ones would mean we have to get up in 4 hours to make the train. Eventually, with no real decision, we make do with a long night at the station, not so bad except the waiting area is infested with rats. They are not even afraid of people, running in and out of the sleeping passengers to be. It's still about 37C, were dirty, tired, exhausted, and more than a little out of it, everything in fact, but I do manage to book our tickets for 5:30AM
This was the worst part of the trip
Eventually I locate an "upper class" waiting room with air conditioned. The seats were incredibly uncomfortable, but we were so tired, we all got to sleep for some time. It's down to about 30C here - marvellous
This was also the worst part of the trip
Eventually, 4:45 rolls around, and I try to locate the train and our platform. Everyone seems to know where it is, but nothing is marked and we, of course are the only non Hindi speakers within 50Kms.
Once safely on board, for about 4 hours, we lie down and cat nap in air conditioned splendour until we arrive in Varanasi
I hardly argue over the Tuk drivers demands, I settle for about 6 times the local price.
The hotel has fantastic beds, and as its still very new, the showers work perfectly
We are so exhausted, we sleep till 8, have food, then sleep till past dawn
This was the second best part of the trip.
The Trip from (AND To) Hell - Pokhara to Varanasi
14th - 17th April, Our Route
 |
| The Rosemary, Pokhara - we bid a fond farewell. Nepal is wonderful |
After our hike, it's just maintenance and hedonism in the Rosemary until we leave.
Laundry - 10Kgs of it, I find I fit into my size too small shorts now, we indulge in lots of beer and Mo Mo's.
There's no rush, but we came, we saw, we hiked, we achieved and didn't die, or even have much in the way of long term physical problems (try that all you 67 year olds out there)
 |
| The tourist inspired delights of Pokhara |
Eventually, we make the break back to India. Kayla is not looking forward to going back with all the misogyny and sexism around.
A bus is booked for the 16th.
We are up early and have to wake up the staff to get the place open and the kitchen functioning, but it all works eventually:
The best part of the trip:
 |
| Pokhara bus station, early morning |
Immediately on the road, the fact that there are no shock absorbers, apart from what you are sitting on, becomes obvious
 |
| Ladies to the rear, gents up front please |
This was the worst part of the trip
 |
| Luckily, we didn't realise it could get even worse |
I t seems that the road south is in fact being built, and traffic will be stopped from 11:00AM.
 |
| Lunch time, if you're brave enough for it |
It's absolute chaos, traffic in both directions, not just crawling, but also stopped, maybe for 20 minutes at a time. As it's a building site, there's dust everywhere. The AC is in fact a fan, and the temperature rises well into the 30's in the bus
This went on for hours
This was the worst part of the trip, except for all the rest of the trip
Eventually, we stop for lunch, and the bus trip starts to resemble a real bus trip
As we get closer to the border, we find out the bus doesn't actually go to the border, so we're put down and have to get a local bus, I think there were about 30 of us in a bus for about 10, to be honest, this was the not worst part of the trip, that's later
 |
| Our border delivery process to Sonauli |
The border was, yep, total chaos, and it got worse once back in India.
The border process had pretty much no structure, coming into India, every bag, suitcase and backpack were thoroughly searched as busloads of locals, and truckloads of produce just drive through. We have to ask 3 or 4 folks, like pharmacists, where we check in for immigration. Eventually we find a little shack about half a kilometer down the road and get checked in.
 |
| All 7 of us, Sonauli to Garakpur - We all agree: Never again |
This was the worst part of the trip.
Well, Ilge said it was the worst car ride she's ever been in.
The reasons given by her being, in no particular order:
the constant loud music played by the driver
his foot was constantly on the brake
he was CONSTANLY honking the horn, and I mean always, it never actually stopped
and of course the general cramped seting arangement
Kayla and I thought he did a pretty good job all things considering how many cows, trucks without lights, motor bikes, Tuks and buses were on the road, going both ways on both sides of the road, of course, in total darkness. PLUS (spoiler Alert!!!!), we lived
The local farmers were burning their fields, so as it got darker, the smoke tended to hide said cows, trucks etc, and the fires gave an erie atmosphere to the ride.
 |
| And if you still think its safe to drive in India |
For one and a half hours, we have a super cramped white knuckle ride, just like so many during our backpacking days. But we're not backpacking any more.......
Arriving alive, we all agree we will never do this again.
This was the worst part of the trip
 |
| The little critters, aka Rats, use broken tiles in the waiting room to check out the action |
Garakpur: apparently it has the longest platform in the world, 1.34 Kms.
The train we are after is totally sold out, and the next one with space leaves at 5:30. I am so tired, and wobbly by this time that I literally cannot think (see previous post). Local hotels are full, farther away ones would mean we have to get up in 4 hours to make the train. Eventually, with no real decision, we make do with a long night at the station, not so bad except the waiting area is infested with rats. They are not even afraid of people, running in and out of the sleeping passengers to be. It's still about 37C, were dirty, tired, exhausted, and more than a little out of it, everything in fact, but I do manage to book our tickets for 5:30AM
 |
| Our Upper Class hostelry - Gorakpur train station waiting room very cheap if you're down and out |
Eventually I locate an "upper class" waiting room with air conditioned. The seats were incredibly uncomfortable, but we were so tired, we all got to sleep for some time. It's down to about 30C here - marvellous
This was also the worst part of the trip
 |
| Arriving Varanasi, the nightmare nearly over |
Eventually, 4:45 rolls around, and I try to locate the train and our platform. Everyone seems to know where it is, but nothing is marked and we, of course are the only non Hindi speakers within 50Kms.
Once safely on board, for about 4 hours, we lie down and cat nap in air conditioned splendour until we arrive in Varanasi
I hardly argue over the Tuk drivers demands, I settle for about 6 times the local price.
The hotel has fantastic beds, and as its still very new, the showers work perfectly
We are so exhausted, we sleep till 8, have food, then sleep till past dawn
This was the second best part of the trip.
From Your Correspondent
