Wednesday, 1 June 2016

2016 May 21st - June 1st Sydney, Japan, Hong Kong 👍

Dateline: 2016 June 5th Osaka, Kyoto, Japan, Hong Kong

A new culture, not Probiotic, and home

Our quick in
tro to Japan

Ryokan, down town Kyoto. Fantastically central so great for touring and especially great Sushi
Pretty downmarket bathhouse and getting up off of the floor was almost impossible
Up market next time maybe.....
 
In which I accept that I've grown too old for the rigours of my hard traveling backpack enabled days, and accept, sort of, that I'm more suited to easier travel pursuits in less demanding locales. This being written in a coffee shop in Hong Kong, which is hard work in which to be a tourist.
Even with premium economy
it don't come easy anymore
HK airport, very early local time

Hey folks. It's NOT easy finding 
your Airbnb in Japan. 
Everything is totally alien,
and 
nobody speaks English here. 
Our 36th floor apartment
An Aide Memoire: aka, god! I do ramble on here. Only the brave or very bored venture further!!
Bicycles and lots of racks everywhere

The last one was of a journey back to the familiar, this is a trip of exploration
So, we are leaving Oz. I must admit I prefer the challenges of the outback, but we had to finish off Taz before we repeat our travels from our glory days in 2010 and head back to the wilds....... Next year? Any other grey takers?
Osaka Castle Donjon, I believe
Its 21st: we say our goodbyes and train into Sydney airport for our CP Overnight to HK, still consider our upgrade from cattle class to be semi luxury a good deal, not much sleep this time though.

I know, but I've read about 
this place so much.
Now its not just a dream 
anymore
Inside the castle, with Donjon as popularised
in Shogun by James Clavell
one of my all time favourite books
The castle was built by the
local 
warlords, all bringing
huge
rocks 
with their chops on
them
Arriving in HK  @ 5:10am, local and so dead we can't find any immigration desk that's open any time soon, but eventually transit through and circle over to check in at China Eastern. Pretty rinky dink outfit, slumming in economy this time. Another tough time at HK airport for the missus catching up on kipping. After another two 2 hour flights, one in which we think the missus got next seasons flu, with the delights of Chinese on board food, hmmm, at least its not con-gee.
 The "Donjon" as in Osaka castle
Not how I had imagined it from
the novel. Oh Well


A small piece of the battlements

This trip to Osaka is via Shanghai airport.  Supposedly modern, but definitely concepts of the 60s or even before, and shades of Mao lurking in the arrivals check in. No scanner for transit boarding pass, just a sheet of paper, and a pencil, no abacus though..

We meander through back alleys and warrens, no direction signed or much in the way of where to go are given. A stamp here, a grunt there, and we are somehow in the International departures terminal. About 10 duty free shops, one cafe, one Starbucks and a pizza palace, Chinese style
 
 
As captured in "Shogun" the route of the defenders,
in sometimes horrifying details (like heads strewn around,
raped and raping ladies etc etc)
Its not just the passenger set up that's chaos. Boxes of stock for the duty frees are all over the terminal floor being hand counted, there are several flight announcements given by ladies using a loudhailer. Yes, really. The waste bins double as spittoons, or is it the spittoons double as waste bins?
Both flights make it. But Japanese immigration needs an address AND a phone number contact, just in case we turn out to be terrorists I guess, anyway, "Airbnb" eventually works and with a "Must have next time", we're out to the  ATM and Japanese public transit
I've assumed we arrive at Osaka airport, but its not, this is KIX. There's 2 airports here, we land at Kansai, so all my plans for transport to our digs are crap . This one on a totally different transit line. Luckily, we have great directions from our host, but we're severely knackered, so all bets are off
Part of the moat around the castle

Airbnb needs you to be somewhat savvy and work out how to find the places, typically, there's no huge sign saying "hotel Airbnb" over the buildings.
We all read Shogun in Nairobi
when I was 31, so I've been waiting
37 years to come here
More importantly, we did in fact need to know how Japanese public transit and features works. Here, at each station, there are underground exits in the endless passages, numbers from 1 to maybe 30 or more on big signs, find the number and easy. Come out and you're home, literally. We were. It's simple when you know what you have to do
The room is small but good quality and very effective. It's Sleep of the dead, my urologist will be very happy to hear that
Monday, another work day at the tourist factory begins. We discover our apartment has a great balcony and some views of the river, but enough of this frivolous stuff, this is a serious tourist discovering day: we're off to Osaka castle. Pausing only to fire up our Google mapping, we're off.
The castle was destroyed by earthquake, and the Donjon, 
like most structures in Japan, burns down quite regularly

The streets are amazingly clean, often freshly washed, only one fag butt seen in several Kms of walking.
Finally, we depart

We ask ourselves, where everyone is, the river bank has a pleasant flowers and bushes walkway all along it, but it's deserted as are the streets. We find out why later that evening when we take to the subway at rush hour.
Osaka Castle is straight out of Clavell

Most of it (Shogun that is to the uninitiated) is true, well, except for a few poetic licences like the "bad" guy actually died 5 years before the final battle took place in the book, and actually, he wasn't such a bad guy anyway. But the final Shogun (Ieyasu, aka "Toranaga"), was involved in a huge killing fest of his (Hideyoshi, aka "Ishido") sons army. Its a bloody good read either way
A lovely riverside cafe for snacks
and relax. It was lovely
The staff chased after us with some small change
we forgot
So photo fantastic, can't get enough and hardly a tourist in sight. Lots of school kids and handy food stalls
The sheer immensity of it, massive rocks for the outer wall, 3 walls 2 moats, paranoid rulers hereabouts, sounds like they needed to be. The defences are incredible. In all, 106.7 hectares. Compare that to its contemporary, the Tower of London at 4.2 hectares and you get some idea.
Inside the actual castle building, now a museum, there's piles of stuff about the building of the original castle in the 1580's in the now rebuilt castle, (based on a contemporary ink painting), in great detail. Quite a bit of the assassinations and treachery of the time and consequences of such (eg, perpetrator and family boiled in oil for an unsuccessful attempt) are here, albeit copies of originals
The drain covers are quite 
renown for their art
It appears that everyone is 
different and comes from a
special dedicated foundry
The battles for Shogunate's title in the 1603 final war is all documented in folding screens of incredible detail: Thousands of fighters and flighters. describing battles, commanders, individually recognisable. Lots of heads (graphic details here) taken, followed by an incredible rout, the ensuing mass rape and pillage: it's well worth the effort, the research that is. I almost expect the description on the cards to read  Tokugawa Ieyasu ("Toranaga") and  Hideyoshi ("Ishido")
Just too late for cherry blossom by maybe a week, but it's a fantastic sunny summer day, strong breeze, perfect for lots of walking around and ogling the sheer magnificence of it all

This is a great leap back into photography, even if it's all on my phone (smart)
Down into the subway to Namba as the sun sets, and find a market warren of street level shops. I explore for an hour till I find us a likely candidate.
I ask the waitress for her recommendations, she brings a pile of sashimi, oh dear, some lovely flavours, but we need more, so we head off to a ramen kitchen, fantastic piece of pig belly, fatty bits are incredibly tasty, and fatty. Really, beauty and the beast
We (I?) indulge in a beer as the salarymen head home
On the  way back to the pad, we decided to go across the street, so we head down where a sign points to the subway. What a total surprise!
Now we know why so few people are around. Beneath the road, and, here, between stations, in fact as it turned out, also in lots of places, there's huge subterranean areas and walkways, some like this one, running between stations, massive subterranean shopping areas, almost small cities this one running at least 400 metres, 2 - 4 shops wide, all under a 3 lane road.
We''ve done about 4 hours of walking, about 9kms, not bad for new knees I think, so thankfully collapse
Next morning, it's a relaxing coffee on the banks of the river. Its a Gucci crowd here, toy dogs, fully accessorised, and cooling water spraying fans to add some droplets to the surrounding foliage. Its very artistic, cooling and quite effective. A prelude to wandering around old and new Osaka, heading to the train station, on foot.
Melanie, our Toronto neighbour has 
recommended "Okinomiaki" as a local speciality.
This is a 
specialist kitchen. It's great!
More great city planning? On the pavements there are yellow tiles, everywhere. They have different profiles meaning different things for the white stick tappers brigade. They branch off to buildings and special places like subway and toilets. Smart eh?
The manhole covers are more than utilitarian, just another touch that makes you think cities do not need to be drab
So many bicycles parked on the sidewalk, masses of them on many roads and pedestrian areas, same as cars in car crazy
Kyoto, the Royal Palace entrance
 environments. Here, there's a thriving sub culture of easy transport and places built to encourage it (is John Tory listening?). Even bicycle locking parks abound at 200¥ (About $2.50) a day for commuters are all over. Also, no spandex crowd, and most bikes are cheap single speed, often with front baskets. Very practical in fact. This might also be a major factor in the physique of the locals, hardly anyone overweight, let alone North American levels of obesity anywhere.
There's very little vehicle traffic, mainly buses and taxis plus utility vans and a few personal cars 
Kyoto, the Royal Palace gardens
 Osaka station building is immense, hardly Paddington, very modern and again, full of shops. More walking to Umeda sky building for what's billed as the Hanging gardens, our final destination today. Hanging gardens is no such thing more a city view, but not a 5* attraction. There's some smog, but it's not noticeable breathing it

Obviously, Osaka has and has had very smart city planners and, huge budgets available, but it certainly does show what can be done.
The park is pretty big, and we get
a grand tour of the palace
Getting around on public transit is so simple, effective and cheap. Not just logical, almost intuitive. Here, buses, trains, everything electronic, tickets, entrances, busses. Ticket machines with fairly simple instructions, often in English too. For buses, you get on in the middle, out at the front, pay on leaving with card, ticket or cash; fixed amount at about $2.75.
Apparently,a famous "stone carving"
in the palace grounds


I think of the piece of paper for a transfer on TTC, that's still the standard after 50+ years.
Once again we ask where Toronto is, 30 years of no increase in taxes, its so noticeably sub standard once you travel. Our mayor calls a news conference to tell the world you can buy subway tickets with a credit card now. Mind you, Japan has the largest debt to GDP of any western country, 240%, I think Canada's is about 40%
I label the Toronto problem of still living in the 70's
 as a poverty of expectations
There is no graffiti, dog crap, litter, its really amazing. Maybe to our western ideas of "civilised society".
What is the other side of such law abiding?
Well, we did see a car pull up at a crossing with what looked like a granny and grandson, his pants were open and she appeared to be assisting the young man with some exercises.... Too fast for me, granny that is.
There is also the "salaryman" diktat: after work, this maybe after 7:00, all the men in a department go out to "bond" with each other, they are often seen in bars and restaurants. All in their identical dark blue suits. The boss is the loudest one who smokes too much (oh yes, lots of smoking in restaurants), and is always laughing and chugging saki
The royal bridge over one of the ornamental pools
Again, lots of walking, get the missus back in action, semi quaint narrow streets, hardly any one in public places, but the shops and inner areas, the interiors and subterranean shopping areas,  like the station, are packed.
There are a few major streets, and many more minor single lane alleys really. On either side, there's a white line  that act as safe zones for the bikers and walkers. Actually, there are walking zones on all streets. Hardly any cars, and they must give way to us. 
Oh yes, free public WiFi all over the place. Hello Toronto?
Schoolkids are a constant feature here, and they all 
want photos of you with then 
So, to continue: with only a coffee so far (which is excellent everywhere), at 3:30, we are desperate for food. The standard appears to be food courts which are hidden in office buildings and offer a staggering number of options, usually, an entire floor. Taiwanese dim sum  is our choice, then beer in the forecourt, which is almost deserted 
A lazy day
Kayla has told us we have to try Okonomiyaki. It is an Osaka specialty. It's certainly fun to watch being made, and actually very tasty too
Fantastic experience, food? Pretty good
Walk back 3.5 hrs today
So advanced. Textured pathways
and even sounds 
for the blind,
just about everywhere
Our ever thoughtful Airbnb host has reminded us several times that check out is by 10am, so off to Kyoto, sorta early
Google maps (I think I've bored you lot with details before) telling us how easy it is, can't believe it. Its about 80km, and costs about $7. OK, we board subway, out, cross platform to train, 5 stops, trek around building, and in our place by 11:15, less than 2 hours start to finish
Simple or what?  AND! You can do this every 20 minutes, now imagine that every train is packed . Such is transit here. As advised, super impressed with new high tech transit app.
Early in, we're in central Kyoto, so off to Nijo-jo palace by 12:30
Ieyasu built it in 1603, just after all the heads, rapes and butchery, as above. Not as immense as Osaka castle, but esthetic beauty in excess not many of the original buildings left,
Shoes off, walking stick wiped and cleansed
Nijo-jo palace, another Ieyasu built royal hangout. 
Lots of tourists, and the inevitable crowd control
Waiting for the bus
Somehow, these are all carved
wood and accurately tell
you how long each bus
is going to be. Incredible
In the actual palace, there's audience rooms for diplomats, courtiers, family as the rooms get smaller toward the back. Screens of animals, pines, seasons. very artsy, and rather austere
All the floors passages are "nightingale" construction, floors that squeak when anyone walks on them, including ninja's I guess
Beautiful Japanese gardens which you can only look at, but lots of crowds and no seating except for rocks. The gardens are very well designed and there's a board displaying which flowers and shrubs bloom at which time of the year.

For some reason, we miss out on restaurant in our meanderings, again, so we get takeout from department store. At least I can just point. An interesting selection
In our new abode we get to grips with a real Japanese Toilet, amusing, you plug it in, comes with instructions, its multi purpose, not sure how you get it to work, not sure I need some of the options. Lots of ways to irrigate and jet, well several parts of one's body, and of course, the seat is heated, it was always hot. I couldn't work it out at all. My peasant upbringing perhaps
Checking my emails during a night bog break, forgot there was a step down and end up on the floor wrapped around the bench. Could have been much worse, only dueling scars and bruises. Certainly a broken bone would not have been unexpected. Al Hamdu lilla. A warning perhaps that medical outside of Canada is not going to be free. Stay healthy!
Toilets in Japan are truly 
something totally new
No, not a game console, your bog controller
Thursday, beaten but not broken, head to imperial palace, walking, about 3 km, wandering around, its huge, but only as a park, mainly trees, not worth much effort. We stumble upon the information office that tells us that tours of all 5 palaces do take place, so we will book for main palace at 10 tomorrow 
Fresh new knees are not the 
best option for a Ryokan
Subway to Kyoto station, again, huge beyond my brain to cope, well, no, not really. Literally can't see the end of the shops underground. Just massive and again, like nothing I've seen before Japan 
Walk to a "special food" place as per missus, Buddhist temples here and there. Arrive and its full. We find a back street cafe place for dinner 
Small, but full of salarymen. Smoking, big time and we try different stuff, overall, a great experience, then walk back in the rain. We  stink of fag smoke: remember the 80s?
27th
Up, sorta early for the imperial palace. Even time for coffee before we leave, still amazed at the amount of shops under ground, not just a single level, multiple levels. Fast subway to palace, a bit late with a knee replacement in tow
Still quaintly 16th century?
The Imperial Palace is fascinating, hasn't actually been used for a while, and obviously, not used for anything like a royal ceremony. Apparently, George H bush, QE2 recently reviewed the place
We get to see how roofs are made here: Japanese cedar "has lots of oil, so waterproofing qualities" miniscule pegging, huge quantities of said, "25 years to replace, after 30 years it needs replacement". Question; how often does the palace burn down? Oh, quite often. A guide book illustrate the problem "whenever it burns down, its rebuilt"
Quite a familiar sight in old Kyoto

Really? OK
Take a break by the cafe, there's a huge never ending surge of school kids, happy to try English and take photos with us. We had 4 accostatiions in about an hour while we chatted to an Australian couple doing a similar self managed trek.
The wife has just had knee upgrades, but hers was via stem cell injections, not slicing. I remember seeing something about it on Sydney TV when we were there. So any one looking for new knee's, hang on a bit, the days of the knife and hammer may soon be over.
More chatting and I mention how easy everything is for travel now compared to 1975 (my date of departure from UK). He tells me how they keep getting lost. Poirquoi? (in Australian) Says I
So, I asked to see his mapping technology . Well, far be it for me to judge, (who, Me?), but they are using iPhone technology, he shows me the maps Apple have, and I don't wonder that they get lost. They're terrible. I showed him how easy my map and directions process is, and hence how easy traveling in new environments is. I'm not certain he comprehends what I'm saying though, but I recommended he upgrades to something more effective (no, I didn't say what that should be)
Ancient and modern. 
Old city, Kyoto

Snigger!

Bus to Golden pavilion, just for a change, a Buddhist temple, this one supposedly with actual bits of Mr Buddha in it.
Its rampant, full of school kids and tourist!  like being trapped in a Hajj stampede. 3 security guards to direct the masses just at the first viewing point. Never seen so many tourists and kids in one place before  Later, after the masses have buggered off, I take another trip after hordes have dispersed and I'm the, last out Better photo-ops as the sun goes down
No, the locals do actually wear 
these as normal day clothes
Bus back to our 'hood and try for Japanese version of tapas again
Nothing too familiar, I actually finished the chicken gizzards, (I think thats what they were?),  but the barbecued chicken hearts, and barbecued chicken skin fat balls were outside of my comfort zone. Ended up back at the basement department store for current buns. Definitely the best food of the evening 
Typical Kyoto street scene
I search for some more cash, lots of ATM's don't like my card here and head off to the station to check out how to buy tickets to airport Sunday. All the instructions are in Japanese only! Yikes. thankfully, a helpful lady arrives and I end up with the exact tickets all the way to KIX from the station master. Thoroughly Japanese helpfulness. From central Kyoto to KIX, maybe 100Kms for about $14. I'll take it!
Saturday, our last full day in Japan. Kayla Has recommended we stay at a Ryokan in old Kyoto easy enough, we have one a quick walk from the end of the bus route. It dates from about 1900, an old inn. A 6 tatamis room for those in the know , and we get our own robes
I've found a pretty down market Ryokan in old Kyoto. 
It worked as an introduction. 
Your correspondent modelling the current Kyoto tourist fashion


Dump luggage, squat for green tea on tatamis mats (and successfully get up off the floor after), and book up our bath (as in Ryokan)
Out to old Kyoto
Well, we didn't pay enough for luxury did we?
Just what am I playing with?
Fascinating that it's still so preserved but Japan seems to do that. After a while you get used to all the kimonos. A wonderful balance of old and new, nothing appears to be cheap or ill considered, not just here but everywhere
The Ryokan bath, is a huge tub of hot (spring?) water at the perfect temperature. As you get in, it's like time is not moving, but ends all too soon, something of zen in this tubbing? I can certainly understand why Blackthorn in Shogun was so enamored by them, but then again, he did have a house full of servants, a master masseuse on hand, various concubines and ladies of the willow world available to assist in his every need
The end of our quick investigation of Japan. 
Time to catch a bus
No, the missus couldn't bend her knees to get out, so don't get in. In all, a slightly more sophisticated tubful than what I used to have back in my council house days. Glad Kayla recommended all of this, it's all such a new experience
Had a recommendation for fish from the lady at reception, and after waiting for an hour to get in, turned out to be the best sushi ever (duh! you say), and probably in my top 10 of ever meals
 
 
Now, did I mention how easy it is to travel with a smartphone? No? Well, journeys are a cinch, only problem being that you need to map the intended route before you leave your net place as I didn't bother getting a SIM here - Wifi too easy, so, getting to Kansai (not Osaka) airport was just about keeping track of the g-plan. It really does take the stress out of traveling
Comes with helpful instructions


To Shanghai, and finally, our last redoubt before Toronto, Hong Kong.
Our Airbnb place is not really as salubrious as I'd hoped, but we have our place so, it's good enough. As long as the A/C does't crap out 
Fantastic mango and "grass jelly" smoothies end the day in the cafe in our building
It's pretty hot next day, (33 feels like 37), but we brave it anyway. Finding coffee becomes a marathon, yes even with my g-maps its really hard.  I know, try congee you say. But again, just getting where you want to be is a big production.
I think (probably again) that I would have loved the dynamism here in my 20's or 30's, but now, hmmmm, hard work, especially on the missus knees and inflated ankles
Even walking in Hong Kong 
is difficult with few places to relax. 
Just outside the Hong Kong museum

    Now this is my kind a guy


Unless you have a car or taxi, just getting around is a pain. Even from one side of the road to the other can take 15 minutes as there's fencing stopping you everywhere. Certainly not well thought out for anything except vehicles, maybe not even that. Often the streets are blocked with railings, so it's off to the left or right, or back to an underpass. I remember last time on the island pissed me off, and Kowloon does not disappoint today. Unlike Japan, pedestrians are an unwanted extra here.

Passenger walkways are often suspended above ground, slapped together and amble all sorts of directions you don't want 
It's brash, dirty and cockroaches scuttle around the pavement in front of you
We take the tourist bus and see everything 
that is the island. Its ok I guess
Kowloon, just like Hong Kong is really hard work, even with g-map at the ready. Its hot too, did I mention that?
There are actually several rather 
attractive parks on the island. 
This is one in the centre
Culture shock

In the coffee shop, I asked for the wifi login, "login through your Facebook account" he tells me. He looks at me as some penniless wretch when I tell him I don't have one
Its the Hong Kong Museum of History for us. Hard slog around the pedestrian oppressive roads. The Museum is incredible. Huge diorama's, intensely detailed exhibits about just about everything concerning Hong Kong, from 400,000,000 years back up to the reclaiming by China. It's all here, even actual original period shops. Movies, in about 8 locations about piles of stuff. 
Students hangout for dinner, and back, via Kowloon Park.
Showers all round, and my poor stinky hat finally gets a wash. Exhausting
View of Hong Kong and harbour from Kowloon
Last full day, and I'm on my own, missus hacking, and I'm outahere. Again, it takes an hour to find the (different), coffee shop, then a trek via ferry across to Central and the HK park, Aviary, Botanical Gardens. Even hotter today, 30 feels like 40. It's dripping weather. So, back, shower, and Dim Sum on the ground floor of the building here. Tomorrow is another big day
And so it was, 16 hours of CP flying, and we're home.
I got the early beta version of next winters flu, (it's a bugger), probably from the missus just as we returned on the 1st, so we're out of the public view for a while

Still contagious, so keep the rush of invitation for bbqs and other non specific entertainments till next weekend or later, but don't leave it too late!
So we're back to revel in OHIP supplied services, then a summer of house fixings
Good work team!

From Your Correspondent