May 1st 2005 - May 15th 2005, Zimbabwe
Route: Harare to Gonarezhou North Game Park
I'm here on a mission to find a place to buy, probably, maybe for our retirement
We (I) had looked before, back in 2000, without really digging too deep. There's been a lot of social upheaval, yes, and deaths. Land, farms, businesses just taken over at gun point
What the hell am I thinking?
Garth is expecting me, and after a few messed up flights, we meet at Harare airport
We met Garth in Chipinge on our first family trek in the Cruiser here in 2000 where he actually made the parts I needed for the salt depleted brakes
I've brought lots of goodies for him, life a really good camera: a Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT, AND a brand new Toshiba laptop. Eventually, I exchange these for the safari trip
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Gonarezhou game park. Finally! Africa
Really shot out and full of cows, but that's Africa these days |
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I arrive, and somehow, Garth finds me at the airport
Here, part of his social life in Harare |
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We head back to his folks place in Harare and
I'm out of it. Next day, Sunday Polo for the whites
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And poverty and ignorance for the locals
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| Poverty and Ignorance? Where |
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We were in Zim in 2000 and 2003
I met Garth in Chipinge where his garage fixed my Cruiser |
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| Needs must, on the way home after a few |
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The local pub.
Apparently, there's a test match cricketer in here somewhere
I just remember endless amounts of beers. Lots of beers
No, I didn't enjoy it
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Monday, a round of golf anyone?
I tag along, but a bit desultorily. This is how the white man lives here
I'm introduced to the idea of a "brick". A bundle of local Zim cash, the value of which declines by the day due to non existent fiscal management by the government. A "brick" was about $Zim200,000 which was worth about $US5.00
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I don't think I've ever been in Zim
when there wasn't a fuel shortage |
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| Central Harare. Garth |
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| Central Harare. Your correspondent |
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| On each of our previous family trips |
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| We filled the car up with some fabulous carvings and art |
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| While I was here, there was a dealer (I assume) |
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| Buying and filling up a 20 foot container |
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| The whole road was just an art show |
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| The Zim artists are truly excellent |
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| And certainly almost no tourists here |
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| Hence, no buyers, except for the guy with a container |
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I think this is Garth's place, but that's Chipinge
so this is probably in Mutare
I remember a cottage in the Vumba
We (they?) were all drinking and I said that I was off for
a walk to the local hotel (Inn on the Vumba) about 500m away
I was told to drive, but wanted to walk.
"No way, you will be robbed and beaten up before you get there"
Get the idea yet? |
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Garth has a petrol station and remnants of a garage
This is a return trip to the Vumba |
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| Last time we came here, we bought a lot of these |
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| This time, well, it's and easy lovely gift |
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Definately the Vumba. Tony's
As in super decadent chocolate on chocolate in chocolate
cake (we couldn't eat it all) back in 2003 |
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| Somewhere in here was a house fore sale |
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| Garth has a mate (of course) |
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| Who is in real estate |
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| So we get a few listings. Some dire |
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| Some divine |
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| I had actually found this place through thew web |
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So knew about it before I arrived
They were all pretty cheap, but the security and
the prospect of it being taken away, convinced me I
was actually almost crazy |
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The Mutare club. I despaired here
I think it's the total disconnect with reality, but all
everyone did, was drink, lots. half a bottle of Vodka at a sitting |
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| It's another weekend, so it must be a cricket match |
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| Followed by another party |
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| At least there seemed to be a point to this one |
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| Some kind of celebration. Kids birthday I think |
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You need to bear in mind, that any white Zim folks
still here, are only here because they are poor
or can't convince another government to allow
them to emigrate. Or both
Note amount of beer bottles |
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Cecil Kop. Mutare picnic spot
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Last time we came as a family (2003) there were a rancid Rhino
and sad elephant here. Now, not even that
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| Well, it still has promise for some |
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Quote from my video
"A sad, desperate society. A war mentality, but this time it's an economic war"
Everyone just constantly pissing it up...... |
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Garth asks me if I need another beer, and I finally crack
"No, I really want to head out to a game park" |
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So, we head out to Chipinge,
and Garth starts the process
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Two days later we are in Gonarezhou park.
Garth gets me a discount
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Complete with Samuel, Garths house guy
who is our cook and general organiser
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| This is the main entrance |
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| And this is our lodge |
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What else could it be?
Gin and Tonics are required |
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Samuel springs into action
Tourist awaits pampering |
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| It may not be much |
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But it's home for a few days
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| This is the view |
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| Local fauna. |
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But it's far enough away not to bother us
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Hardly any other life around here
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Garth decides we should head out to track the wildlife
I still remember this dusk trek, walking through the trees identifying which ones I can climb up if chased
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We settle down on our mattresses,
making sure the fire is well stacked for the night |
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| Looks like the fire kept away most of the meat eaters |
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Morning view
Note where we got totally stuck in the muck yesterday |
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| Certainly a great idea to bring a servant along |
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What a life you say
Correct! I say |
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| We head out, well, just about anywhere |
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Garth has only brought a 2 wheel drive, so
eventually, we realise we are stuck on this side of the river |
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| Preparation for one of the best meals I've ever eaten |
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The idea is, that if you see one vulture
there's a meal for it somewhere near |
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| But we never found out where |
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| A lot of our day is spent |
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| Avoiding 4 wheel drive driving |
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| The river bed also turns out to be 4 x 4 |
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| So our day sags into |
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| A fruitless search for, well.... |
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| Anything will do |
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| But Samuel has made a truly amazing |
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| Ox tail stew and greens |
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| The local river offers us some consolation |
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| And we again head out on our evening adventure |
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| Sunset, and all the carnivores are hungry |
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| Down at the river, our old friend is back |
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We finally indulge in our stew.
Totally utterly magnificent
Having someone to clean up everything is also wonerful |
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| So, once again, stacking wood onto the fire |
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We arise, still fully intact next morning
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Yesterday, we found a watering hole
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| And today, we stake it out |
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| A few of the fast foods |
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Then, a young tusker
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| Africa like it should be |
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We have just a few leaves protecting us
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| We realise all the animals are very easily upset |
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A sure sign they have been shot at and/ or hunted
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| We remain very quiet |
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| Fully aware that these poor animals are only here |
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| Pretty much by mistake |
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We take it all in
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| In many ways, this Africa no longer exists |
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| Relatively free and wild, somewhat undisturbed |
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| We make a tiny noise, and the matriarch senses us |
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| And is off |
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I'm not even sure that there are lions or Hyena's here
But just in case.....
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| And, so eventually, it's time to go |
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| Benji's Weir. Right in the middle of the park |
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I assume some intrepid Benji made an effort
to farm this area |
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| Your correspondent inspecting the grounds |
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We head back
Here, on the outskirts of Chipinge, the local graveyard that can't keep up with the AIDS epidemic
On the way, we run over a beautiful turkey (we were speeding through a village at about 100Km/h) and stopped at another village for something where some UN group were there "assisting" drove in
There were 3 totally brand new luxury fully air conditioned Land Cruisers (probably about $US65,000 each at the time) and it was all juxtaposed by an old guy, who had hardly any clothes to his name, just sitting in the village dust
The outrageous contrast between the opulence of the "do gooders" and those that needed good "doing" to them, was appalling.
The UN team was totally oblivious to the local rampant poverty
AFRICA!
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