Route: Lokathula Lodge, Victoria Falls - Caribbea Bay Resort, Kariba
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| The park takes up a fair lump of the southern bank of the upper Zambezi No one around, no animals, well, live ones anyway here either |
Wow! What a place, what a park, what a shame!
We heard today that there are food riots in the streets of Harare, general strike and chaos. Luckily, the animals in the park do not go on strike as far as I know.
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| Lots of animal bits here, often, just close to the side of the road |
This is just inside the actual park, and here there are massive amounts of baboons, all sifting through the trash cans, warthogs, and occasional hippo snorts from the river, just 50 metres away.
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| I mean BIG bones, lots of them too |
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| The service was OK. I guess there's not much tourist traffic her |
The lodge has all the basics once again, fridge, 4 beds, kitchen, pots, pans utensils etc, but the genteel decay betrays years of neglect or budget shortfalls. No air, only fans, and it's pretty hot even by the river. We Gin&Tonic ourselves, and settle in for an early night. There is the luxury of mosquito nets over the bed, and we all make use of them.
October 16th, and we head out for Hwange - a 50's type of coal mining town that still supplies the local power station with cheap
dirty coal. A quick stop at "the BIG tree" - a baobab that centuries of explorers have slept under and carved their names into.We hear that there is always diesel at Hwangie - we can always head out of Zim again, but would prefer not to - not yet any way. We did manage to fill up quite easily yesterday - looks like Sunday deliveries of fuel. Gas seems to be easy to get, only diesel is in regular short supply.
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| We have no idea how people can live Without tourists, the state of existence is dire |
Aiden really wants to shop, so we eventually do. The prices are incredible. It's embarrassing to us, $C5.00 for a 2 Kg wooden hippo for Kayla (weight is easier to estimate than art), $C10.00 for a 3Kg stone elephant (Aiden). The pricing is quite embarrassing, $C10.00 will buy some incredibly carved wood or stone pieces.
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| Not much going on as we approach Main Camp |
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| The incredible concept is that the park is pretty much our own |
Fisani Mazalwayedwa,
Kariba Youth Trust 2100,
Box 390,
Kariba, Zimbabwe.
At Hwange town, there is lots of diesel, and the Baobab hotel - once again, genteel decay, maybe one other guest, full staff around, just in case someone like us turns up and great samoosa's.
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| We head out to a platform, fairly close to Main Camp for the night. Pretty damn cool |
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| The platform overlooks a waterhole, still functioning Often the water is supplied by diesel pumps The Diesel is sponsored by Zim businesses |
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| This is it. The sun sets and we are not allowed to return until daylight |
After breakfast at the lodge, we again head out to the upmarket lodge, this time to book our Kariba timeshare and get our 20 litres of fuel. Again, no one there at RCI in Jo'berg, so we just leave a message to confirm our week. There is a very good map of the park here for Z$50.00 - this is infinitely superior to the photocopied handout from the park. Maybe we can avoid getting lost now.
Still no lions or wild dogs on our evening run which takes us on a wild loop around the back roads, now we know where we are going.
Wednesday morning game run - same stuff. We head off into the park, and at this low speed, the truck hesitates and dies. I'm out with the spanners bleeding the fuel with everyone on "lion watch". This would be exactly the time we get to see a large pride wouldn't it?
As we reach the viewing platform, the front wheels complain with noisy creaks, Oh Dear! There is a lot of goop dripping onto the tires - it's been doing this in a minor way for a while now, but it seems that I can ignore it no longer. This looks very serious. We head back slowly to the lodge, and the local maintenance shop. The mechanic diagnoses an oil seal... I do not have one of course, so he fills up the front diff with transmission oil and tells me I should be able to get to Hwankie ok.
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| It's actually, very exciting being out here on our own |
Another bad day looms ahead of us, this could take a week or more, simply to get spares!
Luckily, the drive to Hwange town is uneventful, and I find the main garage.
There are two Europeans running the place, and are literally doing just that - running. I'm there for nearly an hour waiting for one of them just to talk to me - they don't. Eventually, the secretary grabs one of them and, not talking to me, but her, tells her that they are too busy, and spares are impossible. More long term aggravation. However, she recommend Hwange Motors, and Mike there takes one look at the problem, identifies it as "easy, no problem", and within an hour, we are back on the road. I told him about the spluttering, and he recommends changing the fuel filter - it seems to work!
All (known) problems have been fixed for $C30.00, and we head off, with a full tank, to Sinamatella camp. By no rights should we be here right now, but it seems that we are having (another), lucky break with the cruiser. Let us pray!
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| The dusk rush as Cape Buffalo head to the water hole |
There are three other groups here, one Zim based showing some Scot folks around, two Brits out for a fast 2 week trip around SA & Zim, another couple and us. We have a few drinks, shandy's are great for this weather, and head off to the dams which have been recommended by the Zim folk. There are about 40 cabins and huge camping areas here - at 10% occupancy, we ask how long can this last?
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| It actually get's very dark, and to be quite honest pretty frightening on our platform |
On our evening game run, guess what? more large herds of buffalo. We get lost, but backtrack and get back before curfew.
The food here is probably as good as main camp, but is even cheaper than main camp.
It is so sad that so few people are here - this must translate into massive lay offs of the staff. No commercial venture can survive for long like this. Our house attendant is very nice- once again, very friendly, helpful and aware. These are not characteristics I found anywhere in Africans 20 years ago - this is remarkable considering the dire state of education here. - As ever, we are extremely impressed by the people here.
We have our final beer of the night with the other residents. As the day ends, I think of how badly the day started, and how incredibly well it finished. Praise the Lord and our trip continues!
Distance travelled this entry: 750 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 400 Km
October 24, 2000 Caribbea Bay Resort, Kariba, Zimbabwe
Route: Sinamatella Lodge, Hwange - Caribbea Bay Resort, Kariba
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| Masuma Dam. I've told the family that this is where they should throw whatever is left of me after most of my bits are scattered at Sinamatella |
On October 19th, back at Sinamatella, the Brits are leaving, and I discover they have two jerry cans for fuel. As they are off to Vic Falls, and back through Botswana, they have no more use for the cans, so I buy them. We move into a lodge (better facilities) and spend most of the day with schoolwork. Fractions, trig, reading, English & French. God it's hot! But we have a constant supply of water and shandy's.
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| Masuma Dam. Paradise incarnate If you love Africa and what you need to do to stay ahead of it |
Friday, 20th. We booked up to stay at Masuma Dam for the night. A few more calls to RCI to confirm our week at Kariba are just that. Still no confirmation, but the news is that Harare has quietened down now.
The Zim locals told us that, it's a little known fact outside of Zim, but you can actually stay at the platforms, and sites inside the park. These are always booked up, but as it's open season on booking, we try, and get the night at a pretty dam, about 20 Km from Sinamatella.
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| A slow day, but it gets very busy later |
As there is no power here, unless we bring it ourselves, we have to survive on candles and our camping lights..It's been a long day, and we expect an equally long night, we all have a solar power shower at the camp, and make for an early dinner (flavoured rice on our gas burner). Time to do some more schoolwork, and sunset finds us washing up and brushing our teeth.
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| Probably slightly more exciting than learning about it in school |
The hide is literally crawling with bugs, we were thinking of sleeping on the ground, but a quick look down there shows just how unrealistic this idea is. Back in TO, we bought a bug killing impregnated mosquito net. It's finally time to dig it out and we hang it from a beam over our Price Club chairs.
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| All modern conveniences |
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| Abiot fires up the shower Total luxury, African style |
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| Yep, this is it. Me & the missus had previously settled on Mazima Springs in Kenya, But this place, Sinamatella, is certainly my place of final "resting" |
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| Sinamatella Camp, where Africa streches on forever |
Next morning, Saturday, 21st. We compare notes and interpret various screams. The impregnated mosquito net is surrounded nay, inundated with insect carcasses, each of these being gently rotated and shepherded off by a few ants.
Back at Sinamatella, I fill up the jerry cans before we head to Robins camp, this is supposed to be lion and hyena central. The riots we are told have settled down, but we are still not convinced about getting to Kariba via Bulawayo / Harare. Looks like the easiest route will be through Zambia.
Our main pair of bins - our gift from Mart, have now been used so much they are actually falling apart. I make a bush fix, and hope to get some first aid to allow them to remain with us for the rest of the trip, later.
On the way to Robins, we get a huge flat - a blunt stone rips through the tire, steel belts and all. Maybe it's the extra weight of the diesel on the tires?? Aiden, Kayla and Ilge perform the lion lookout duties as I change the tire. It takes about an hour, and I'm a bundle of sweat and dust by the time I'm through. We take it easy getting to the camp.
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| Couldn't believe it. A rock cantilevered into the tire Total and absolute destruction. Irreparable |
Aiden & I have steak, and Ilge and Kayla have curry. We all agree it's all awful, and Aiden feels nauseous. Sad really, everyone is only too willing to try.
Come morning, Sunday Oct 22nd, I'm up at 5:00, checking for hyena's etc. There is none.
Despite the lack of visitors, the camp continues operating, the admin office opens at 5:55 by running up the flag. Everyone immaculately cleaned and pressed. I hope that things change for them soon.
Looking around, Robins was obviously very well run and attended....... some time in the past. What was a swimming pool and playground, is now just a wasteland. The kitchen has smoke marks above the windows, they must cook on open fires now.
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| Victoria Falls Hotel. Well over rated. I wasn't particularly well here, so just getting across the border to Zambia was enough sick from the food here |
We decide that maybe we should just go, and try for breakfast in Vic Falls.
It's a long, bumpy, sharp road to Vic Falls from here. About 70Km of dirt, and 30 of tar. It takes us 2 hours, but we have no flats. Just as well.
A quick change of US$ in $Zim, and we celebrate at the Vic Falls hotel with lunch. Prices are fully westernised - about 4 - 6 times "normal" Zim rates. We smile and pay for a couple of beers and a salad each for what was a full days accommodations complete with food and drinks in the park! It was not as good as the Sinamatella food either. Although it's been high summer for quite a few weeks, I suddenly notice that we are standing on our shadows at 12:00AM.
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| The Zambezi from the bridge (see pix above) |
We have a family conference, now it's my turn to feel woozy - shall we make a run and chance it through Zambia, or wait here for a spare tire? We run.
The bridge is driven by me, and walked by the family. View from bridge. View from bridge without railing.
The border to Zambia could have been easy if the carnet had been made out for this country. It was not. Never thought to look and check. I knew Zim was missing, but Zambia - they actually checked the fine print. After an hour, they gave us a temporary import licence for the car, (for which we were genuinely thankful), and, pausing only to be ripped off for $US12.00 by the local money changers (I still can't believe I let them get away with it!!), we are of to Choma, 215 Km up the road.
We are immediately stopped by a border guard, complete with an AK47, who asks for our insurance.
"What have you brought me from Canada?" This is guard talk for "What are you going to give me to let you through?" I tell him that we have brought the kids from Canada and he's welcome to them, he laughs and waves us through.
Last time I came to Zambia, it was quite poor, and very basic. It looks exactly as I remember it. Very African. The only difference now, is that the towns are packed with people, everywhere in the towns, they take up all the sides, and most of the road to walk. There are very few road signs here, so we hope to get through as this is the only tarred road for 100Km around.
The Lonely Planet tells us that there is really only one option for the night on the way to Kariba. It is in Choma at Gwembi Safaris. The road is pretty good, with occasional potholes, but we make it by 17:00. On the way into town, a young boy flags us down for a lift, we are obviously full, but as we pass, he gives us a good old fashioned North American finger. Obviously, US cultural hegemony, plus a need for freebies is at work here.
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| This is where the white water rafting starts |
Before dinner, we discuss Zim, Zambia, how he lives and makes a living, the state of various economies, and where Zambia is going. He tells us why there are no road signs here - the local population take them to make pots. Wow! This is still a desperately poor area.
We have a great time, dine well and pass a restful night.
Monday, Oct 23rd, the day our time share starts, and after breakfast, we pay with VISA and head out. There is a stretch of about 20Km of dirt road, which makes me twitchy, and the rest of the road is at best, variable, with occasional areas where you suddenly run into half a kilometre of potholes
Just before Mazabuku, the road turns South again. I tell everyone that this is as far North as we are going to get before we leave Jo'burg, Nairobi now simply being a fading idea. Maybe next year, or soonish.....
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| Zambia. I didn't take more than this on our 24 hour venture there |
It's lunch time, but we eat on the road (again). Fruit (peeled as we go), pies - really dreadful, juices and milk being our main intake. I have Kw9000 left (about $C3.50), which I give to the kids. They are collecting currency from each country we visit.
Once again, there are police stops, which usually wave us through, and Africa, wild, untamed, unused, corrupt and desperate stretches away. All along the roads there are bags of charcoal, or reed thatching for sale. This is about it for commerce in the bush.
The missus & I are both caught short with some gut problems, as the kids are ok, we assume it's from last nights food that the kids did not eat. This is quite a first for us - gut problems are rare for us!
The road toward Kariba is very busy, mostly laden truck going north into Zambia, and empty ones heading south. Quite a few of them are broken down on the road, on hills, nasty bends etc.
Money changers come out of the bush waving notes at us. It starts to heat up as we once again descend in altitude toward the river.
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| Caribbea Bay Time share. Hot, very hot, humid, 43C, but pretty much all our own |
Immigration give us a harder time getting back into Zim. Not exactly hard, but they actually ask us to fill in forms, and how much money we have. He gives me 30 days visa, but I tell him we need more, and I then get 90 days.
Once in, it's time to fill up with fuel - easy to get here it seems.
At the fuel station at the top of the hill from the dam, a local farmer drives in and the first thing he says is "ONTARIO!".
He's spotted our licence plate and finds it a bit incongruous. We chat, and seems like he's been to Canada, Seskatewan apparently doing a masters in farm management.
We both think an Ontario registered vehicle is pretty funny in Kariba and go our separate ways
We head off to Carribbea Bay.
It's a beautiful place, right on the lake, and we are expected. Bonus!
It's still early enough to get to the supermarket, so its unpack and go.
It's quite large, but once again, the selection is fairly basic. However, we stack up for a few days, and take the rest of the day off.
The lodge is large (again), with 3 bedrooms, very private; surrounded by trees and bushes. There are large (1 metre long) water lizards everywhere - relax they have legs, so will not bite us. The braai area is almost a building. Everything is finished in a garish pink adobe style. We can live with it.
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| School work? Are you kidding |
In the time share, there is also satellite TV so we tune into BBC World quite often. The best part (again) is that apart from a family from Zambia next door, we have the entire place to ourselves.
Lake Kariba is just 30 metres away, but its full of crocs and bilharzia, there is also an electric fence around the area to dissuade the keen aquatic life forms to stay away. We will simply have to get used to the two pools.
It's hot - bloody hot, and we sup away our G&T's in the pool as the sun sets over the lake. More Magic.
Tuesday, 24th. and I can locate a 4 x 4 techy via the phone book, and talk directly to him. It's 5000 Km service time, and if we are lucky, a replacement tire for the crap one. I take it in, passing a few elephants on the road as I drive into his garage. This guy specialises in Land Cruisers - he imports dead ones from Australia, and uses them for spares! Perfect. I leave the machine there, and will get it tomorrow. Yes, he has a "get by" spare for me, and it's a done deal. Pick up tomorrow. I'm grateful that, so far, we've always managed to get through some how.
Africa can be like that, you see incredible things here that could not possibly be allowed to work, by authorities, or nature in the west, but here, things appear to carry on regardless of facts and probabilities like vehicles seem to simply carry on working, Having said that, Africa can also be merciless. The wrong move, and you can be meat on the road, or an object a puff adder takes a dislike to. This is not a continent for those who cannot adapt, or take the initiative to make sure what you need to happen, happens.
Once again, we settle into vacation mode.
More rough times ahead.
Distance travelled this entry: 740 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 910 Km
Monday, October 30th, Carribbea Bay, Kariba, Zimbabwe
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| The day before the rains broke. Incredibly humid and sweaty. Only place to be is in the pool, skinny dipping of course |
Finally, our days are numbered, the rains are here and we are all, at least cerebrally, gearing up to leave Africa.
Today, we resume our odyssey, but this time, it's with a feeling that we are at last heading home, even if it is still 8 weeks away. Even this (8 weeks), is still far more than the wildest vacation period for all but the most independent of travellers, so we can come to terms with this aspect.
During our stay here, I found an e-mail place, and was able to pick up some Toronto news.
Sadly, one of our good friends, Jim Loveland, who had been ill for a few years, died last Tuesday. Patty, his wife was not sure whether to tell us or not, but she e-mailed us anyway. It's very difficult to accept this at such a distance. We called her and had a long chat; we think of heading back, but Patty will not hear of it.
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| Really, there was no other escape from the heat here |
Up to this news, we had been doing straight vacation stuff. The only other family in the complex who were from Zambia, left on Wednesday, and the place is now exclusively ours. We go skinny dipping at night, have the water slide to ourselves, and at the restaurant at the nearby casino, have incredible service. Once again, Zim cannot carry on like this for much longer, and the manager and waiters we talk to all tell us that they expect to be out of work sooner rather than later. This is Shona country - this is now the ruling party's tribal background, and the feelings here are exactly the same as in Matebele country.
We have spent the week with the kids, doing some more school work, taking a break staying cool on the water slide. I realise I'm not as young as I used to be, or even as young as I think I am! We also have a threesome on a full pipe of water - big mistake, Aiden & I have a smash up on the fourth chicane - painful connections.
There is yet more sun, schoolwork and pool. There is very little else here. Again, there are lots of arts and crafts, once again at silly prices. One seller was so desperate, he would take payment in Zambian Kwatcha - this currency is even worse than the Zim dollar.
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| The resort had a water chute . The water looked and smelt disgusting, but it was wet and cooled everyone. The kids from the other family came down on their stomachs and promptly ripped their toenails off. Hmmm more water discolouration |
Kariba is a strange geographic place. Just like the landscape through the last 100 Km in Zambia, the area is hills - everywhere. Plus its quite confusing. Kariba "centre" is at the top of a hill - about 5 km from the lakefrnt, with a few shops, (there were more until the supermarket shut recently), post office, municipal offices and crafts. The actual Kariba area, is right on the lake, and down the main Harare road. I drive all over the place trying to locate stuff. One day we head up for lunch at the club - same sad story of grandeur reduces to scraps and flaking plaster. The membership is Z$40.00 each, the view is worth this much, but lunch is literally un eatable. This is a first for Zim.
The week passes. I e-mail a few times, Ilge, Aiden & Kayla but a few more goodies, once again, embarrassingly cheap, and we read, swim, sun do maths, geography, French (mostly in the pool) and some more current affairs - Africa division. We find a foreign exchange that give a fair rate (Z$55.00 = $US1.00) with no commission. The casino/ resort offers 51.00 but then wants another 6% commission on top of that.
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| As smelly as it was, it was a great time had by all |
Ilge knew some people here in Zim 20 odd years ago, in Harare and they are still listed in the phone book. We phone, innumerable times, but there is no answer. We even send a telegram - which cost $Z8.75 or $C0.15, but still nothing.....
Occasionally we meet and talk with some of the staff here, David & Susan are typical - they are married, he is a manager here at Caribbea, she a partner in a hotel near Vic Falls. They are both very worried about how much longer they themselves, their family and their country can continue like this.
One amusing item about the prices here, at the supermarket, I find local gin (quit acceptable to us plebs), cost $C2.50 - this is the full 750mL bottle bye the way. The large bottle of tonic costs almost this much!
On the Friday, 27th, the temperature carries on climbing - well past 40, if we had not survived it, I would have called it unbearable. The only problem with this resort, is that there is no air conditioning here!
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| We kept this up for a few hours Then paid the Chutekeeper and went back for a braai |
Tom, Amanda & Britney call us on Sunday, 29th, and it was good to catch up again. Seems that we missed some fine weather in Canada..... well, guess what.
We leave some of our clothes and food with the "houseboy" - plus a tip, I doubt if he will be getting much more of this for a while.
The family talk becomes more and more "what do you want to do first when you get back?". Psychologically, we are already heading home.
We change a barrow load of money to see us through to Mutare, maybe a week away, and stack it in the safe.
Without this security, we would I'm sure be nervous wrecks. It's not too difficult to break into the car, no one has yet, thankfully, but with an alarm blasting and faced with a safe with a combination lock hidden in the bowels of the machine, we feel our cash, cheques, tickets, passports, laptop, cameras and films are pretty well secure. I'd strongly recommend a safe for all international travellers.
Distance travelled this entry: 70 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 0 Km
