Dateline: 2000 July 9th , Hazyview, South Africa
Route from Johannesburg to Hazyview, South Africa
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| Intrepid proto explorers and trusty chariot beast, about May 2000, 54 South Kingsway, Toronto |
Tuesday, July 4th, Randburg, Johannesburg, SA.
The Background
Being a modestly successful computer "dude", totally overwhelmed for 4 years or more with all manner of client requirements, contract deadlines, Y2K or, as it eventually turned out, NOT Y2K. Long hours, very long weeks, eventually turning into year upon year of total immersion in anything and everything to do with designing, writing, debugging installing and upgrading all manner of computer systems. I felt, at 9:00 PM one evening, in the middle of a savage bout of 4 contracts, 3 urgent deadlines, 15 "must be done by tomorrow at 8AM" e-mails, and my daughter, Kayla asking for help with her homework, there simply had to be more to "life" than this.
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| Jimmy hard at it under the hood, May 2000 at B & J |
However, given the will to do something, anything is possible. During one of my extremely rare 30 minutes of free time, I was in Toronto's "Biggest Bookstore", and gravitated to Maps - the Mitch map of Southern Africa was in my hand, and at least there was a direction available.
Being my own "dude", I had no boss to answer to (the missus may have a few words about that later), plus I'm sure one or two of my clients might dispute this. The thought was "what is the use of making a good living, if the family does not know you exist, and all you have at the end of the day is a happy bank manager? I'm sure the kids might have some input on this, however...
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| Tom, helping me make the kids beds. No, we never used them for beds |
A theme to live by:
" Tired of lying in the sunshine/
Staying home to watch the rain/
And you are young and life is long/
And there is time to kill today/
And then one day you find/
Ten years have got behind you/
No one told you when to run/
You missed the starting gun" Time, The Dark Side of the Moon. Roger Waters.
So it was. Everyone was told we were off, so eventually, we had to simply go and do it.
We decided on 6 months, "we" being a bit loose, as both Aiden & Kayla stated quite often and defiantly, that they would prefer "a pet to a trip around the world".
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| Jimmy, Munier and Glen. Our lives literally depends on these guys! Thanks all |
Where? Aiden was given the task of doing a where to/ when project, Kayla as consulting adviser. Afraid this did not get as far as I'd hoped. 'Nuff said. Plan C: France (for the French immersion) for a month, then down through Europe, Turkey, Syria, Egypt, Sudan, etc.
So the Cruiser was bought in February, now there was no going back???
Well, as we are now in SA, obviously we did not, but there were times when I wondered just what the hell we were trying to achieve. A lot of research was done - mainly web and an excessive number of Lonely Planet guides, but also contacts, everything we found said no way between Egypt/ Sudan/ Ethiopia - very difficult getting info as only 10 people per year seem to try to do this (see web references below).
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| Kayla & Aiden try out their bedroom |
Plans D - E came and went, and then, realising that it was winter in SA, therefore cooler, plus our friend Jill, had foolishly invited us to stay, with many proviso's about the security situation here, we were up to plan G.
This even survived the realisation that, contrary to what I remembered, all of Southern (and also Eastern) Africa drive on the left (some old colonial thing I hear), so what's the deal about your own Left Hand Drive Cruiser?
As I sit here at this 4 star luxury time share, just across the road from Kruger National Park, I wonder why myself, but find I am no longer troubled by such issues.
Anyway, come March/ April, plans were at least being thought about, we had after all bought some timeshares years before, with exactly this in mind. We start the search for the tickets - another hole in the road. May arrives, do or die, we reserve the tickets, I e-mail Jill that we are arriving - she e-mails before mine reaches her that her husband has been retrenched, and she will be off out of SA in July!
Malesh.
The deal being done, now it's a race against time: I have told two clients that I would have a new fangled web based technology, somehow within 2 months. This, plus get the cruiser ready for shipping with some form of camping infrastructure already built into it.
It was a trial, luckily Cedric was the dude par excellence for some instant hi-tech web enabled database processing, and Tom was just the guy to get the cruisers chopping board tail gate prepared for the trip. Also, my two larger clients, National Fast Freight & Timax, plus the folks at Modern, helped by not asking for too much or demanding cast iron guarantees that (any of) my stuff would continue working, once I was no longer on the end of a pager. - Hope everything is still working and you are still solvent guys! (Thanks Lori, Dale & Dianne & Wes for letting me out folks)
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| Your correspondent hard at it between, probably during contracts, on our new home |
For fixing the cruiser, I have to thank my supreme mechanic dude buddy - Jimmy from 3 Way Auto. Jimmy set himself the task of making as sure as possible, that the cruiser would perform - Thanks Jimmy. Hope I do not need to send you a return ticket to Tanzania!
Balancing work, huge amounts of hours required to get the new systems running, and hopefully fully functional, - it never seemed to end, vehicle preparation - updates to various security systems, 12V power supplies (still to be fixed), family and having a good bye party, all left me totally ready to just get on the plane and simply leave. Cedric & I put in incredible hours - I know I recently got his invoice! and at least appeared to have everything either working, or, if hardware/ etc would not make it in time, then a plan to get it to work after departure (AD).
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| Aiden |
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| Dad & Captain |
Even though we have both lived in Africa before, we have no concept of what we are heading into, what to take (except money), how much or little countries will be able to provide regarding vehicle spares, medicines, even reading materials. What do we need for a 5/ 6 month trek through southern and eastern Africa? Some things may prove to be totally ridiculous, others, we will not be able to imagine why it was overlooked.
Whatever.....
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| KaywaB |
So, we quit the comfort, security, reliability, safety, friends, 95%+/- predictability of life, and a thousand other positives of a totally enjoyable (almost) worry free existence Canadian lifestyle for.........
Well, we still cannot say.
If you are still reading this pre amble, thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed this self analysis and introspection, it should get a little more factual from here on. Now Read On!
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| Mum |
Thanks to the following folk for their web pages and e-mails:
Dennis Wilson dennis@african-edventure.org: http://www.african-edventure.org
Geoff Kingsmill gkingsmill@yahoo.com - sorry, lost the link, will get.
Lonely Planet Guides: South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Kenya Etc Etc.
Lonley Planet Website: http://www.lonelyplanet.com
and bulletin board: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/afr/topics.htm
Tuesday, July 4th, Randburg, Johannesburg, SA.
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| Our glorious first time share in Hazyview (No, there isn't always a rainbow over it, but it is surrounded by a very high fence. camera monitored and razor wire on top |
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| The family in the Johannesburg suburbs - Jills House |
We were banking over Guateng Province in the new Republic of South Africa -23 years since we had last been here, this time with two pre obnoxious kids as our heirs in tow. The sun briefly flashed in our eyes before disappearing again over the clouded horizon..
The last time we had seen the sun, was on our way to JFK airport, 20 hours before just as we were embarking on our South African Airways direct flight to Johannesburg. Just as we were taxiing out to the runway, a massive cloudburst shut the airport down for 2 hours, so we had an impromptu get to meet your neighbours, their neighbours, and finally, as the time ticked on, most people in the vicinity. The 747-400 was pretty well full up: only about 20 seats in economy may have been empty, "lots in first class" we had reported by Aiden & Kayla, who had gone to check out their neighbours upstairs.
Even before the 2 and a half hours on the tarmac, it was going to be a long flight - scheduled to be 14 hours, 20 minutes: 6 time zones, 2 hemispheres, 2 tropics, 2 seasons: A whole world away.
After two years in the planning, I registered my continuing misgivings that this may be (another) trip of a lifetime, or simply a stupid way to convince myself that I really should stay in the quiet, pleasingly wonderful neighbourhood and gloriously bland society back in Toronto, that all of us happily call home.
16:40 Local, 10:40 EST: Everything arrives safely, after our 26 hours since leaving home and 17 hours of enclosure on out 747. We have 9 bags, - 4 on board, 5 as baggage, 2 kids, 2 passports - 3 months multiple entry tourist visas. We begin our adventure.
Jill meets us at the exit from customs & immigration - still very Brit with Green & R
ed exits. We both note that neither of us appear changed by the intervening 20 years.
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| Jills garden. We feel the antaganism, even at the airport The house: locks, bolts, guns, runaway and hide room. WOW! |
It's been a long time, but I actually sat to myself as I enter into this forgotten continent, "Ah! Now I remember".
I think I had, by necessity repressed my love of Africa since we left. It's true, you can love it or hate it, but you can never forget it.
Toronto smog has absolutely NOTHING on this - cooking fires, no wind to speak of, all contribute to a truly obnoxious choking sensation.
Traffic - we have to go around the ring road to the other side of Jo'burg, is reminiscent of what we just left behind, 3 lane expressways, several accidents on the way we hear, are indicative of the "first world roads, third world driving", favoured by the populace. Always keep your doors locked, windows shut, DON'T STOP!. Speed limits are 120KPH, 140 KPH plus seems to be the order of the day.
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| Reconnecting before the great leap into the (previously) known |
At the house, locks everywhere, 3 to get into the house, (not counting the front gate), security system, more locks. Jill has been burgled 4 times before the system went in - she was lucky, she was not home any of these times that the thieves called!
After some catching up - Jill & I go back to Jo'burg in 1976, and some sage security recommendations, we're out for a pretty good meal at the local Beef & Lobster restaurant. Five of us, steaks, seafood, bottle of wine, R280 about $CAN65. Not bad a little less than Canada maybe. I use the credit card to make sure VISA knows I'm actually down here and will not refuse credit sometime in the future when I really need it.
Surprisingly, none of us are badly jet lagged, we all had some form of sleep on the flight, and even the extra 6 hours, have not kicked in.
Still, we try to adjust to the daylight saving time, and retire, slightly drunk, but happy that we have successfully begun our trip, with all of our bodies, goods, faculties and humour intact.
Tomorrow is another day, and Southern and Eastern Africa awaits us.
Wednesday July 5th, Randburg, Johannesburg, SA.
We're up and ready for Africa - frost on the ground, an easy start to the day, breakfast, MARMITE! Lots of edible stuff - our hostess looks after us and takes a half day off from work.
We head off to Sandton City, the largest mall in Africa.
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| On our way to Hazyview at a break on route Nelspruit restaurant Let the adventures begin |
This is definitely up market - ie, there are multi hued customers here, still a majority of whites, but not in the proportions of old.
First stop - coffee, what's it like here? - Not bad, not Second Cup, but ok.
Now, check out various items, cell phones, GPS's miscellaneous camping bits. Search and inquire. Internet café? Of course, in the entertainment section.
Security? Lets check out the weapons shop. With my Canadian outlook, I cannot bring myself to buy a handgun, are even, when invited to try the knives - "this is a slashing knife, or how about this one, this is a rrripping knife" as we have a very sharp, serrated flick knife, all business this one, and a demonstration of how to activate it. No? Personal pocket sized cattle prodding device? How about some Mace, pump action shotgun? We decide that we will think about it.
Hair time, we find a salon, and it's "off with their hair" Aiden, Kayla and Bat Smith (oh yes - it's all gone!) I ask for something shorter and hip. I end up looking ready to sell IBM equipment. Maybe looking like an IBM salesman is hip here?
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| The missus, moi, Jill & Kayla at Nelspruit brunch |
The all pervading air of the city reappears as we leave - security guards in the car park, locked doors and windows, bars on the house, 6 seconds to turn off the security alarm, hold down for 4 seconds for 2 minute armed response.
Sleep tight!
Next day July 6
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| What a life, even for a "modestly successful computer dude" |
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| Hazyview timeshare, a truly fantastic experience |
This is much the same size as the local Swansea mall. There are three guards in attendance at the mini parking areas. They get (sometimes) a 2/ 3 Rand tip if your vehicle is still there and in one piece when you return.
We survive our trip, and Jill picks us up at 5:15. It's getting cold again and we're glad to get home.
Packing begins for the first leg of the tour, Kruger Park in Eastern Transvaal, now renamed to Mpumalanga (Rising sun) province.
Try to get into the web on my PC via various techniques - no luck, one good thing however, the Fisher supplied transformer works a treat - thanks Richard!
July 7th.
Up early - 6:00 AM - Midnight to you folks! Off to Sandton for a final fling.
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| Not much, but it's a blast just to be here in Kruger Park |
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| Kruger - Finally after nearly 25 years |
Well, we will do better.
Now it's time for our trip to really begin - Kruger National Park, we head out at 12:30. We hack down expressways (superfast toll roads) as Johannesburg recedes behind us across the Velt, just as I remember it from my dimming recollections. Stopping only for booze and a late lunch, we arrive at 6:30.
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| Our own Hippo Pool, with several ensuite Hippos |
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| Hazyview timeshare complete with its own hippo pool, and hippos |
July 7, 2000, Kruger Park, South Africa
9:00 AM. We have been up for 3.5 hours, now breakfasting at Pretoriuskop Lodge, bacon & eggs; greasy, toast & marmite, something described loosely as coffee, and fruit juice.
This is one of the many lodges scattered throughout the park: it took us 2 hours to drive the 45K from the main gate.
Lots of animals have been passed, none of the "big five" yet - elephant, lion, leopard, Cape buffalo, and rhino, but enough generic animals, birds, vegetation and geology for us to be happy enough, even after getting up at 5:30. Jill has taken us in her car - our intermediate hire car arrives Monday, and we are just lolling through the park - totally doing the tourist bit.
The drive to Kruger Park, even at 6:00AM with the sun rising, vibrates with Africa (surprise!), many people walking or waiting for taxi's, vendors of "African curio's", already have their stall/ roadside piece of dirt, staked out, and ready for their clientele.
This park is big: 2,000,000 hectares, 350 Km North to South, average 60Km East - West. Speed limits are 50KPH on tar, 40KPH on dirt. The landscape is varied, mainly brush, some trees, kopies (remember "Pride Rock"?) Sub tropical. As it's "winter", the days are bright, warm and sunny days (26C), cool/ cold starry nights (10C), no rain, it's dusty. Gloriously totally free of bugs - not a mosquito in sight or hearing range: so much for Malaria warnings.
We take a few back roads, a large herd of Cape Buffalo can be seen in the distant valley - no departing from the road or getting out of your car except in specially designated spots, so we cannot do as we did in Kenya, and leap all over the park.
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| The family getting into the African spirit |
Head off back to Skukuza, the parks central offices, the local store supplies enough for our evening meal, and we're back in time for sunset, pausing only for what Kayla insists was a leopard en-route - sorry folks, digital camera ran out of batteries.
Distance travelled this entry: 11900 Km.
Distance moved on trip this entry: 11875 Km